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Old 07-26-2008, 12:34 AM   #51 (permalink)
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nice work...cool truck
for carburizing the oil is better,but almond or walnut shells are better than oil..
Thanks!

I'm not sure I get what you're saying about the almond/walnut shells though. Could you explain a bit more?
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Old 07-26-2008, 02:52 AM   #52 (permalink)
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love what your doing. Im a jeep guy but my dad who is 48 has told me stories of camping and fishing in scouts back in the day with all his buddies. When i bought my jeep i think he really wanted me to get a scout, ohwell maybe next time. Anyway its great to see someone restoring one of these things, im going to show him this thread tmrw or sunday. Maybe try to get him to get a project of his own. Nice job on the dana 70 looks like your taking your time and doing it vintage i like it.
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Old 07-26-2008, 11:52 AM   #53 (permalink)
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almond shells are used as a source of carbon[poor mans case hardening]which like cryoing only hardens the surface for wear resistance.it was late when i wrote that,sorry for leading the thread off coarse a little...anyhow if your interested,heres a good link to hardening..http://www.wisoven.com/heatreat.htm
sexy welds by the way!
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Old 07-26-2008, 04:18 PM   #54 (permalink)
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love what your doing. Im a jeep guy but my dad who is 48 has told me stories of camping and fishing in scouts back in the day with all his buddies. When i bought my jeep i think he really wanted me to get a scout, ohwell maybe next time. Anyway its great to see someone restoring one of these things, im going to show him this thread tmrw or sunday. Maybe try to get him to get a project of his own. Nice job on the dana 70 looks like your taking your time and doing it vintage i like it.
Thanks man.. Sounds like you and your dad need to get an old IH project truck to work on together.

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almond shells are used as a source of carbon[poor mans case hardening]which like cryoing only hardens the surface for wear resistance.it was late when i wrote that,sorry for leading the thread off coarse a little...anyhow if your interested,heres a good link to hardening..http://www.wisoven.com/heatreat.htm
sexy welds by the way!
Ahh.. ok. Thanks for the link and info. Not off track at all.
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:18 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Alright.. I finally got all the fab work finished up tonight and. Reassembled the knuckles, spindles, hubs etc.. I left the carrier/R&P and axle shafts out for now.

I started out fabbing up a U-bolt for the pass. side spring mount. I tacked a long length of 1/2" steel bar to the underside of the recess for the u-bolt.



I used the torch to heat it up in the center and bend both sides down a bit.. then heated up each side to finish the bends.





I cut it to length and then threaded them with a die to 1/2"-13



Turned out pretty good I thought

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Old 07-28-2008, 01:27 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Built the top spring plates from 1/2" hot rolled steel..

Test fit to check hole pattern before finishing.



Spring plates and U-bolt finished



The axle is ready to bolt in now.. update tomorrow/
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:25 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Looks good , you may want to put a third stud on the pass side. It seems to be the trend.
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Old 07-28-2008, 06:52 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Never seen anyone take the time to make their own ubolts....

I think I would have used UNF thread instead of UNC though.
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Old 07-28-2008, 08:27 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Looks good , you may want to put a third stud on the pass side. It seems to be the trend.
Thanks. I'll definitely take a look at it when I get back out there, but it doesnt seem like there is enough meat on the spring pad to accomdate a 3rd stud.

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Never seen anyone take the time to make their own ubolts....
Well, now you have...
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:42 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Got the front axle installed a little while ago.. It's missing a few bolts, I need to get some more of the right length to get it fully bolted in. The steering and shocks arent hooked up yet.. I'll have to make a new drag link and fab some shock mounts. The axle will be coming back out in a few weeks to install new R&P, bearings and maaaybe a locker if $$ permits.







It's got a bit of a reverse tilt lift right now

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Old 08-03-2008, 12:01 PM   #61 (permalink)
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That truck will look real nice when it is finished. Enjoying reading your thread!
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Old 08-03-2008, 01:32 PM   #62 (permalink)
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thats a cool lookin truck Any more plans for the 3-53? I've always wanted to stick a detroit in a pickup. If I hold onto my '69 i'd like to drop a 4-53 or maybe a 6v71 in it
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Old 08-03-2008, 03:11 PM   #63 (permalink)
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That truck will look real nice when it is finished. Enjoying reading your thread!
Thanks.

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thats a cool lookin truck Any more plans for the 3-53? I've always wanted to stick a detroit in a pickup. If I hold onto my '69 i'd like to drop a 4-53 or maybe a 6v71 in it
I love the 3-53's, but I'm thinking it would be better to go with a turbo'd 4-53 instead, for the added power. Either that or a Cummins 4bt. It really comes down to what I can find nearby and the price.

Your '69 IH is nice dude.. very clean. IIRC the weight on a 6v71 is somewhere around 2k lbs.. The 4-53 may be a better option.
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:57 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Nice, I like your project, and you got good fab skills.

Gonna paint a hammer and sickle on the doors with CCCP?
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Old 08-23-2008, 04:44 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Nice, I like your project, and you got good fab skills.
Thanks

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Gonna paint a hammer and sickle on the doors with CCCP?


I might just do that!

Last edited by Azzy2000; 08-23-2008 at 04:47 PM.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:09 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Yahoo! Looking cool.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:29 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I'm going tomorrow to buy what I believe (from the sellers description) is a Dana 80 rear.. could be a 70 though. Well see.

Havent made much other progress lately.. been too busy with other things. I did get the draglink hooked back up and I'll be lengthening the tie-rod tomorrow.

Should have made some more progress before I leave Monday night.
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:33 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Time for an update..

I ran into a slight problem with the Hummer H1 rims on the front axle. They were just barely rubbing the steering arms. I chose to grind the arms down a bit to provide clearance. I didnt take a lot of material off and they are beefy to begin with so I doubt it will be a problem. They clear fine now.



I went ahead and lengthened the tie rod today also. I cut it in half, spaced it out 3 1/8" wider and stick welded a sleeve over it. This is just temporary so I could pull the truck out and back it back in so I can work on getting the new rear axle in tomorrow.





I installed the rest of the bolts for the front axle spring plates also. All that is left for the front axle is to fab some shock mounts, re-gear and install locker, and run brake lines.
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Old 08-31-2008, 07:48 PM   #69 (permalink)
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The Eaton isnt going to be used as I dont want to deal with sourcing all the expensive brake parts (sounds familiar huh? )

Anyways.. I found a Dana 70 rear with a Powerlock limited slip, 3.55's and drum brakes. Brake shoes, drums and hardware are in great shape. It's 71" wide which will be perfect for the truck.



It supposedly came out of a '96 Dodge 2500 CTD w/ a 5 speed manual so I thought it might be an 80 until I went and saw it.



The Hummer rims fit good, and just barely clear the big drums. I'm going to cut the shock mounts off and grind the perches off to narrow their CTC distance. I'll probably be putting a Detroit locker and 5.13's front and rear as soon as I have the extra cash. If anyone wants dibs on 3.55's and 4.10's and powerlock carrier let me know.
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:31 PM   #70 (permalink)
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I spent all day yesterday cleaning my garage up and re-organizing. Today I put the rear of the truck on frame stands and pulled the rear axle. Everything went pretty smooth. It looks like I'll be able to re-use the original U-bolts and spring plates too.



I should have the perches cut off and moved on the 70 tonight.. Hopefully I'll get another day or so before heading back to the Gulf so I can get the 70 installed tomorrow.

I need to start looking into the brake system also.. as far as the master cyl. goes. I'd like to convert to a dual reservoir master for safety reasons, since this will be street driven. I'd like to keep it mounted on the frame under the floorboard too.
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:09 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Got the rear 70 done last night and ready to install.

I torched off the shock mounts and removed the parking brake cables. There is a drum parking brake on the back of the transfer case, so I wont need the rear drum parking brakes on the 70.

I ground the spring perches off and narrowed them 4.5" total to 39" ctc. Stick welded them back on with 1/8" 7018.



I went to bolt it in the truck just after lunch today and realized the Dodge spring perches were too wide for the old u-bolts..



Out came the gas wrench and the grinder one more time... A few minutes later its ready to bolt back in the truck.


Last edited by Azzy2000; 09-04-2008 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 09-04-2008, 05:14 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Finally got it bolted in..



Big ass factory leaf packs with overloads on top..



And finally with the new hummer rims and tires bolted on.

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Old 09-04-2008, 05:19 PM   #73 (permalink)
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It turned out pretty good as far as the width and stance goes. The rear tires are pretty close to the front of the fenderwell.. probably about 3/4" clearance. I'll be doing a little bit of trimming on those in the future.






I need to have the driveshaft shortened and a bigger yoke and joint installed so it will bolt up to the 70 pinion yoke. That and a little bit of work on the brake hard lines and master cylinder and it should be driveable.
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Old 09-05-2008, 08:51 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Sweet work, sweet ride too.

I always appreciate and respect craftsmanship

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Old 09-07-2008, 06:42 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Nice to see that I am not the only one crazy enough to mess with a Dana 70 front axle.
Couple things, What ratio are you planning to run in the front ?
AFAIK, the only ratios for the IH 70 fronts, are 4.30,4.88,5.13,6.17,and 7.17.
I THINK the Dodge units are the same R&P, and it is different than a 70 rear gearset. Rear gearsets will not work in 70 fronts.
Sure would hate to see you go through the work of setting up a rear with a ratio that cannot be matched up front.
The other thing is lockouts. I have the Warn hubs, that are marked "IH".
Someone mentioned that the Selectros are the only ones. The IH ones are scarce, but I have two sets, so they are out there.
Nother thing that I saw someone mention, was your homemade ubolt.
The 70 fronts have an odd sized ubolt on the passenger side. The one that wraps around the casting. My spring shop, McVeigh's, in Mio Michigan, has the most extensive collection of ubolt dies I have seen, and they do not have the correct one for the 70 front. I had to settle for the next size larger, and make it work.
Nother thing is spring width. The IH 70 fronts are set up for 2-1/4" wide front leaves. This is determined by the spacing on the holes in the case, for the studs.
The 2-1/4" leaves were on the 1310 trucks, with greaseable pins and shackles. The shittay thing about the 1310 front leaves, is that they put the axle way back in the fender opening. This "set-back axle" was to get some weight on the front end. (this is on the 69 to 75 trucks ) It looks stupid.
I ran 2-1/2" wide 2wd IH leaves for a while, notched at the ubolts, for the narrow spring perch, now I have 4" lift GM fronts, nothed the same way. (1/8" per side) 4 years as summer DD, no problems.
Here is a not so recent shot of mine, it started as a 1100 2wd.
Now it has the 70 front, RA15 rear, 392IC, 5 speed direct, Watson over-under, NP205. The Watson is an engineering experiment that is ongoing. It has an overdrive in the nieghborhood of .75 to 1. It got me from 6mpg, max cruise of 55, to 12mpg, cruising at 75.
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Last edited by drydocker; 09-07-2008 at 07:12 PM.
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