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guidolyons 09-24-2015 04:52 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Got the rust sorted, added a layer of Hushmat to the upper firewall

Attachment 1929554

Installed the AC unit and ran the duct hoses:

Attachment 1929562

Finished plumbing the AC lines, new receiver dryer, and heater valve:

Attachment 1929570

Added a piece of Lexan behind the AC controls for some backlighting (amber lights were for testing, I have two green bulbs)

Attachment 1929578

Gauges and AC controls lit up:

Attachment 1929586

guidolyons 09-24-2015 04:54 PM

4 Attachment(s)
New voltmeter, Speedo, Tach, and fuel at night:

Attachment 1929594

Dash going back together:

Attachment 1929602

Attachment 1929610

Attachment 1929618

The push-pull cables for the heat and defrost are to the left of the middle dash vent. The fan and AC controls are down below in the three holes where the Ford controls had been. Added anther 12v outlet in the third spot.

The Ford turn signal/multi-function switch is clunky, I am thinking about rewiring using the Chevy column, but I have to figure out windshield washer fluid and high beam switches. I may upgrade my column to a newer GM with the multifunction switch, but it will work for now.

Off to the AC shop in the morning for vacuum and recharge.

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:07 PM


Originally Posted by jemarshall (Post 33540970)
I would suggest resistors on the lights to dim them a little, they are fin bright :eek:

Yeah I noticed that, the turn signals are fine, but the blue high beam is BRIGHT at night. I tried 500 and 1000 ohm resistor and it didn't help much :confused: Probably just stick a piece of blue tape on it for now. *edit* Fixed it. Stopped by the local window tint shop and snagged a scrap piece of limo tint. Cut out a disc and glued it in the high beam LED. Perfect. Not sure why the blue LED is so much brighter than the green ones?

The amp light and check engine light I had to use a Hella incandescent warning light.


Originally Posted by Scout Dude (Post 33541026)
Finally, some tech that I find interesting. Can you tell that I am getting old?:flipoff2:

Ha! I almost didn't post up the AC stuff because I figured it was too boring :D

I'm impressed with the kit, nicely done and pretty easy to install. I had previously done an AC kit on my wife's Geo Tracker when we first got married.

war pony 09-28-2015 05:10 AM

That's a real up town rig. You going to be able to get it dirty? It's looking very nice Guido

guidolyons 09-29-2015 06:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Yep. Going 'wheelin' in a few weeks. :flipoff2:

Had a little issue with my, ahem, "creatively engineered" AC coupling. It leaked so I couldn't get the system charged. I went looking for somewhere I could get a custom fitting made and found a different AC shop that specializes in custom automotive AC work. He said he could make the fitting I need, but wanted to take a look at it. I brought the Scout by the AC shop yesterday and he said I need a different receiver drier (the stock Ford OEM style is and orifice tube style not compatible with the Old Air Product expansion valve style). He saved me some potential problems! He also said my condenser in rough shape and recommended I change that as well while I have the system open. So once I get those swapped out he'll make the new line I need with the correct ends on it. :beer:

For the first time since I've owned the Scout it has an accurate working speedometer.

Attachment 1936658

LibertySand 09-29-2015 10:23 PM


Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 33604218)
For the first time since I've owned the Scout it has an accurate working speedometer.

Attachment 1936658

Either the focus was off on the camera or those were some good vibrations that you caught in action...

guidolyons 09-30-2015 09:42 AM

^^^Not sure if Marky Mark is a compliment or an insult? :flipoff2:

Ha. Just my poor photography skills. Trying to drive and not drop the potato...I mean phone.

war pony 09-30-2015 05:29 PM

I'm thinking it was from the glow Sticks.:D

guidolyons 09-30-2015 05:57 PM

If the Scout is a-rockin' Don't come a-knockin' :grinpimp:

guidolyons 10-13-2015 12:11 PM

5 Attachment(s)
So, Steve (my AC guy) recommended that I replace my condenser since I had the system all blown apart, since mine (used from the wrecked donor truck) was a little banged up and one of the lines was bend/crimped from the wreck and could restrict the flow. He made new AC lines from the compressor with the proper fittings, so now everything in the AC is brand new except the compressor.

So while I had the grille off to swap in the new condenser, I took care of a few things I'd been procrastinating on.

Attachment 1956186

While I had the nose off, I repainted the grille (it was not supposed to get painted red) and added some LED turn signals I bought a few years ago behind the grille.

Attachment 1956194

Tucked in behind the grille for stealth.

Attachment 1956202

Got the new receiver drier mounted and plumbed, which actually works out better since I was able to mount it down low out of the way. I still need to police up a few wires and get them loomed and tied out of the way.

Attachment 1956210

I have room for washer reservoir now. I did not have room for the washer reservoir before and I am thinking about moving my MasterFlow 1050 air compressor over to the passenger side fender now that I have more room.

Attachment 1956226

I got the AC system charged up and took the Scout on a little road trip this weekend and having the AC was nice. I was pretty happy with the Old Air unit. I do need to address the heat coming through the transmission tunnel though,after about an hour of driving, it gets too hot to touch, which puts a lot of heat into the cab. The other good news is that running the AC/ added heat from the condenser did not significantly increase the engine temps, I never ran over 200* during my test run.

guidolyons 11-09-2015 03:26 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Getting ready for the North Texas Binder Round Up, I noticed that the nutcerts I used for my crossmember had pulled out. The trucking company used the second crossmember to chain down the Scout and that section of the frame is thicker because I reinforced it after I notched it to clear the transfercase. Looking at the nutcert, I don't think it mushroomed properly because of the 1/4" thick frame rail. I also fixed the cracked weld.

So I used my other method to get threads into a blind frame hole. Tee nuts from the hardware store. Snip off the prongs (there are also a flat version with no prongs) insert into the hole and weld the edges. Works really well and you get more thread engagement than welding on a nut or just tapping threads.

Attachment 1997641

Attachment 1997649

Attachment 1997657

My rear springs were thrashed (Bronco II). They had always been really soft, I added two leaves from a Ford Ranger and that helped, but lately they have been really mushy and almost have a negative arch with nothing in the back. So I hit up the local Pull-a-Part and snagged some heavier rated springs from an F150.

The Bronco II springs are rated at ~960 lbs, the F150 springs are 1,700 lbs (I think, still researching the spring codes 3 leaves/overload). I was looking for the 1,900lb rated 4/1 springs, but I got lucky and found these that were really easy to snag. They have the same offset 25"/32" as the Bronco II/Ranger Springs. Good resource for researching leaf springs for all kinds of makes and models: F150 Leaf Springs, Ford F150 Leaf Spring Replacement

Attachment 1997665

Attachment 1997673

guidolyons 11-09-2015 03:31 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Got the "new to me" springs installed, improved ride and raised the rear 2.5" about an inch higher than it used to be when I originally did the spring over. I also swapped over the red polyurethane bushings that I had installed a few months ago.

New springs are thicker with 3 leaves and an overload. I'll keep the old springs in case I need to throw an extra leaf into the new pack. I took it for a test drive and the the new ride is stiffer, less marshmallow.

You can see the difference in the arch:

Attachment 1997681

Attachment 1997689

The old springs had wear marks from rubbing on the exhaust.

When they downloaded the Scout off the truck, it had been chained down so tight the rear springs were inverted. They seem to come back up to ride height, but they were shot.

Here's the clearance when I originally installed the Bronco II springs

Attachment 2003545

F150 springs
Attachment 2003553

Boomtacoma01 11-18-2015 08:12 AM

Great progression on the build. I need to hit up the scout section more often.

guidolyons 11-18-2015 12:55 PM

Thanks :beer:

bk2life 05-08-2016 11:20 AM

any new updates or pictures?

guidolyons 05-12-2016 08:48 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Nothing too sexy. Swapped in a GM tilt column. I'd been looking for awhile to find a early '90s non-airbag manual shift column, most in the yard are airbag auto columns. I was at the local pull-a-part with a buddy and stumbled across an 1991 S-10 with the column I was looking for. I realized how ghetto the Ford multi-function turn signal switch looked strapped on with a hose clamp. I've had a new Borgeson upper u-joint in the box for awhile to swap out the stock GM upper bell joint, and finally got motivated enough to swap it in when I pulled the column. The S10 column was about 2 inches shorter, but with the new u-joint and longer chunk of DD shaft, it was a pretty easy swap and cleaned up the turn signals, highbeam, and washer pump wiring. I doubt I'll get the cruise control hooked up though :laughing:

Attachment 2255993

Attachment 2256001

Swapped in a new lock cylinder and Grant steering wheel.

Attachment 2256009

war pony 05-12-2016 07:17 PM

Looks good Guido.

desertscouts 05-16-2016 07:44 PM

Great build.....

guidolyons 05-25-2016 01:55 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Did a little faux wheelin' :flipoff2:

Attachment 2271841

Attachment 2271849

Attachment 2271857

Attachment 2271865

guidolyons 06-07-2017 12:15 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I guess I haven't updated in awhile. :emb2: A few updates from the last year or so.

So last April up one of the guys says, "I've got a top that's in better shape than yours. You can have it." I was hoping to just bolt in on and

We decided this was a bad idea:
Attachment 2620274

Went back a few weeks later with my old top removed and picked up the "new to me top" Thanks Lee. :grinpimp:
Attachment 2620282

Attachment 2620290

It might look a wee bit rough, but it's just surface rust, and in MUCH better shape than my old top.

It's for an earlier model, with the external 5 bolt mounting, but fit with a few modifications. I had to drill 7 new holes to match my windshield frame, and trim the top bit of drip edge off the windshield frame.

Attachment 2620298

I had to trim this bit off here:
go, but it was for an earlier 5 bolt top and mine is 7 bolt.

Attachment 2620306

guidolyons 06-07-2017 12:17 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Some more wheeling pics



I found a piece of that perforated 1.25" square steel tube at Lowe's that had the correct hole spacing (1" on center) and width to match the windshield frame to use as a drill guide. After some careful measuring from the windshield (8" on center, from center, 8", 16", 24") frame to the top, I drilled 7 holes. Matched up perfect.

Attachment 2620314

Attachment 2620322

guidolyons 06-07-2017 12:19 PM

So on my way to pick up my top, I had a little problem with my right front tire.:mad3: Still held air, but 1/2 the tread was missing. Figured I picked up a nail or damaged it four wheeling, this was my first on highway flat tire in ~25 years, so I figured it was an anomaly. Threw on my spare and kept on trucking.


3 months later...same thing happens to another tire :mad3: 2 tires (0909 build date) with plenty of tread, in a 3 month period.

Fore sell sum big o tars. 50% tread left. :laughing:

OK not an anomaly, time for some new shoes. Got a sweet deal on some 37x12.5-17 Toyo Open Country RT at the local Discount Tire. They had ordered them for another customer that wasn't sure if he wanted the MT or RT. A bit milder tread, but still pretty aggressive. I really, really liked my BFG KM2s...right up until the tread pealed off at 65 MPH :mad3: Yep. ripped off the left rear fender flare massaged the wheel well a bit.



guidolyons 06-07-2017 12:21 PM

and...then I had to re-do my left rear shock mount. I'm thinking it's a combination of metal fatigue and tire tread separation slapping it at 65MPH. I did the other side, too as a preventive measure.





guidolyons 06-07-2017 12:23 PM

I've been debating the best/easiest way to re-use one of the stock Scout side saddle tanks as a reserve tank. When I originally did the swap, I grabbed the transfer valve/switch and extra fuel lines so I would be able to eventually add an extra tank. My first attempt version just used a T into the return line and the Scout manual three way valve. That had some issues, that I had no gauge on the side tank(s), I'd have to keep track of transferring fuel, and it looked hack-tackular.:laughing:

I had an issue with my main tank not drawing correctly (or maybe it was an inaccurate sender/gauge problem). I ran out of fuel with 1/4 tank remaining...twice :mad3: After I filled back up, I calculated that I still had ~5 gallons in the tank. I started carrying an extra 5 gallon can of diesel with me until I could get it sorted.

Turns out the Ford strainer falls off/disintegrates and my gauge was right. So while I was dropping the tank and fixing that, I decided I would finally tackle plumbing in a reserve tank.

This is what I found:

This is what it's supposed to look like:


One of the issues I needed to solve was a supply and return line, and add a vent to the the tank/filler neck. All complicated by the side mount sending unit and no room on top for a traditional sending unit with supply and return lines. Oh, and the Ford sending unit/gauge is E15-160F ohms.

After head scratching for a bit trying to shove a large sending unit with supply and return lines through a tiny hole and not leak:

I found a Ford Mustang sending unit that would fit in the stock Scout sending unit hole (with a few minor mods, and fabbed mounting ring) welded on a longer arm on the float to match the sweep of the Scout sender.


The drain plug is 1/2-20 bolt with washer. Very close to 1/4" NPT thread. So I tapped the bottom fitting for 1/4" NPT, added an elbow and plumbed in the supply line to the bottom of the tank (not optimal due to sediment/trash/water, but I do have a see through filter there before it goes into the transfer valve) and plumbed the return line to the stock draw tube.

For the vent tube, I used a small hole and tapered punch on an air hammer to make a hole for the vent tube. By using the punch I have a bit more thread engagement with the 1/4" NPT threads. Tapped with 1/4NPT threads, threaded in the nipple and added some JB Steelstick to finish it off.


So, now I have a reserve tank, switches over with the dash switch, and accurately reads the fuel level, too.

Probably one of the best mods I've done, I don't know why it took me so long to do it. Sure beats a 5 gallon can.

guidolyons 06-07-2017 12:27 PM

Pics from October 2016 North Texas Binders trip to Hidden Falls:






The new tires did pretty well, maybe not quite as well as the KM2s, but they run quiet and kept the tread on...:laughing:

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