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guidolyons 02-21-2009 09:38 PM

Guido's 1965 Scout 80 + 7.3L PSD
 
1772 Attachment(s)
Alright fawkers:flipoff2: I've had my Scout since July 2006, it started off as a simple frame on restification to get it driving, then the project creep began, fixed a bunch of rust, swapped axles, power steering, disc brakes, etc. Nuthin' really Pirate worthy.

I've only driven it three times, once into the garage, once onto the trailer and once off the trailer. :laughing: Although, that's 3 more times than Brandon's driven his:flipoff2: looks like he's on the home stretch now though.

For me, it's rare to have the holy trinity (time, money, and motivation), but with a nice tax refund from Uncle Sugar the planets aligned and I stumbled across a wrecked 4x4 1996 F250 7.3L International PSD, ZF 5 speed :idea:

If the guys at Petersen's 4WOR can stuff a Cummins 6BT into a Jeep I can get a 7.3 PSD in my Scout with some slight firewall mods:grinpimp:


Can you guys help me?:flipoff2:


7.3/ZF 5 speed/203/205 10b/14FF yeah, yeah 10bolt sucks but it's what I got for now.

Attachment 423899

Attachment 423900

Attachment 423901

guidolyons 02-21-2009 09:46 PM

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Here's when I brought the Scout home
Attachment 423904

Fixed some rust
Attachment 423905

Attachment 423906

Welded up the spiders in the Gov-bomb and shaved the lip off the 14B.

Attachment 423907

Chevy 52's up front and a bastard spring pack Ranger and Bronco II in the rear.

Attachment 423908

bassdude 02-21-2009 09:47 PM

i have no help to offer. but post a lot of pics!!

guidolyons 02-21-2009 10:07 PM

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Swapped in a steering column from late 80's Chevy, and power steering box from '95 Chevy with Ballistic Fab hi-steer arms (wagoneer knuckles milled by Jnutter), drop pitman arm for late 70's wagoneer.


Attachment 423912

Attachment 423913

And donned my blue nitrile gloves and swapped in a master cylinder from a 4 wheel disc brake '79 grand marquis (thanks HoS)
Attachment 423914

Rear bumper 90% complete, I'm waiting to finish once I decide how much to cut the rear quarters.

Attachment 423917

Brandon 02-21-2009 10:39 PM

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love build up threads..

That is going to be one heavy scout..

Buck Dodson 02-21-2009 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon (Post 9462236)
love build up threads..

That is going to be one heavy scout..

Um, I think his weight to hp or torque will still be ok...

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...hmentid=423899[

crashhawk 02-22-2009 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassdude (Post 9462044)
i have no help to offer. but post a lot of pics!!

X2. This is the dream for my 800.:smokin:

ChiScouter 02-22-2009 06:48 AM

You did a great job of shoehorning that powerstroke in there, to borrow a tired cliche it looks like a factory installation:flipoff2: Is that steering box going to be able to stay inside the frame rail?

colorado_okie 02-22-2009 08:17 AM

Awesome Guido...I'm really looking forward to this one!

Subscribed

-Randy

war pony 02-22-2009 08:30 AM

wow can't wait for more pics, what a great motor choice. Guido do you know the weight of the 7.3 ?

guidolyons 02-22-2009 08:47 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon (Post 9462236)
love build up threads..

That is going to be one heavy scout..

Well, I figure the 7.3L is around 900-1,000 lbs only ~200lbs more than a IH 345:laughing:

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiScouter (Post 9462749)
You did a great job of shoehorning that powerstroke in there, to borrow a tired cliche it looks like a factory installation:flipoff2: Is that steering box going to be able to stay inside the frame rail?

Yeah doesn't it? All those other guys are complete hacks :flipoff2:

My preliminary measurements the stock radiator is ~30"wx27"h which ain't gonna fit without serious modification, even without the steering box in the way. I plan on keepin the steering box on the inside of the frame and getting a 3 row aluminum radiator to keep keep things cool.

I'll start tearing down the F250, complete wiring harness, including the stock instrument cluster, AC/heating, and I even got a pimp Alpine AM/FM/CD player:grinpimp:

war pony 02-22-2009 09:14 AM

Guido, Will you stick with the stock vacuum pump, or go with hydro assist? yes I did see the master cylinder in , just wondering if you would redo it. that has been a week point in the ford of that era for the ones I have worked on.

ChiScouter 02-22-2009 09:27 AM

Not to throw too much cold water on things, but what kind of wheeling are you going to do with it, or what are you going to use it for? Will all that torque even be useable in a short, narrow, lighter rig? When wheeling with other brands of rigs I always thought my rigs biggest weakness was the extra weight I had on the frontend from a SV. In anything soft I sank like a rock when everyone else floated through. Your going a few hundred pounds heavier than a SV, plus a winch, plus eventually a 60. Unless you add a shitload of tube your frame will look like a pretzel. Cooling it will be a nightmare, as will be fitting anything and everything in the engine bay. I would look at dropping the scout body on the shortened ford frame if you have to have that engine. Everyone wants that diesel torque in a wheeler, but I just don't see it as practical or adventageous

MochaMike 02-22-2009 09:28 AM

Not this is looking like a proper build thread. (apposed to the onslaught of Newb posts we've been getting because of the BB demise).

I'm digging the fab work...... The PS box bracket is nice.

war pony 02-22-2009 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiScouter (Post 9463065)
Not to throw too much cold water on things, but what kind of wheeling are you going to do with it, or what are you going to use it for? Will all that torque even be useable in a short, narrow, lighter rig? When wheeling with other brands of rigs I always thought my rigs biggest weakness was the extra weight I had on the frontend from a SV. In anything soft I sank like a rock when everyone else floated through. Your going a few hundred pounds heavier than a SV, plus a winch, plus eventually a 60. Unless you add a shitload of tube your frame will look like a pretzel. Cooling it will be a nightmare, as will be fitting anything and everything in the engine bay. I would look at dropping the scout body on the shortened ford frame if you have to have that engine. Everyone wants that diesel torque in a wheeler, but I just don't see it as practical or adventageous

If we were all practical, what would be the need for pirate 4x4? At least he is not going with a Detroit,353 or 471. keeping it in the family so to speak :D

Mechanos 02-22-2009 11:32 AM

Got caster? :laughing::flipoff2:

What front axle came in the '96 F250? Would it be a better choice than the 10b?

Mechanos 02-22-2009 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChiScouter (Post 9463065)
Not to throw too much cold water on things, but what kind of wheeling are you going to do with it, or what are you going to use it for? Will all that torque even be useable in a short, narrow, lighter rig? When wheeling with other brands of rigs I always thought my rigs biggest weakness was the extra weight I had on the frontend from a SV. In anything soft I sank like a rock when everyone else floated through. Your going a few hundred pounds heavier than a SV, plus a winch, plus eventually a 60. Unless you add a shitload of tube your frame will look like a pretzel. Cooling it will be a nightmare, as will be fitting anything and everything in the engine bay. I would look at dropping the scout body on the shortened ford frame if you have to have that engine. Everyone wants that diesel torque in a wheeler, but I just don't see it as practical or adventageous

You wheeled??? Was Hector still a pup? :flipoff2:

budget76 02-22-2009 12:05 PM

Guido, looking forward to this build :smokin:

FWIW on the BB, or BP now, there's a guy (IH64Scout) that's swapping the 7.3 into a Scout2. May be helpful to check out.

ChiScouter 02-22-2009 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechanos (Post 9463410)
You wheeled??? Was Hector still a pup? :flipoff2:

He had a lot more hair and a lot less aches and pains:laughing:

[email protected] 02-22-2009 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechanos (Post 9463406)
Got caster? :laughing::flipoff2:

What front axle came in the '96 F250? Would it be a better choice than the 10b?

:lmao:

ttb? HAHAHAHAAA

guidolyons 02-22-2009 08:37 PM

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Duly noted ChiScouter. If I wanted practical I'd drive a Yaris, or maybe swap a Chevy 350 like everybody else and go cruisin' for chicks the at mall.

I guess I should probably swap those D27s back in, too.:laughing:

Practical? Yes. Advantageous? Yes. 7.3L w/5 speed > 152 w/3 speed

Stuffing an INTERNATIONAL 7.3L turbodiesel in a baby Scout?

Priceless :flipoff2:

Will it be a challenge? You bet.

Mechanos- Yeah pinion angle sucks too, I got some caster shims to correct it, they aren't installed in that pic. I had to get it out of the garage and on the trailer to move. There will be a D60 under there one day, just not today.

Budget76- Yeah, I've read IH64Scout and Fastcoasty's 7.3L swaps.:grinpimp:

Thanks Mike and War Pony:D I'm gonna stick with what I got on the brakes, 4 wheel disc brakes with good pedal ratio. If I feel like I need power brakes later, I'll swap in some hydroboost. I won't have room for the vacuum booster anyway.

The TTB front :barf: and F250 frame are bent up pretty good, (hence the odd caster and tire wear, the PO drove it for awhile after he wrecked it) so even if I wanted to use them, which I don't, not an option.

Attachment 424137

Attachment 424138

About 800 8mm&10mm bolts later, I pulled the core support and radiator out

Attachment 424139

That fan looks like they stole it off a B-17:laughing: It's about 23" diameter, depsite the apparent enormous size of the 7.3L it's only about 28" tall from the front oil pan sump to the top, and 31" at the widest (power steering pump)

Attachment 424140

A little test fit of the radiator...fits like a glove. No problemo:smokin:

Attachment 424141

budget76 02-22-2009 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 9465583)
A little test fit of the radiator...fits like a glove. No problemo:smokin:

:laughing::laughing: Gawd that's HUGE

NVScouter 02-23-2009 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by budget76 (Post 9465669)
:laughing::laughing: Gawd that's HUGE

:laughing::laughing::laughing:

More!

Btls Mark 02-23-2009 05:27 PM

7.3l
 
I am in the same boat as you, I am putting a 95 7.3l in a Scout 2. I went the long way, I should have started with a donor truck that would have made my life a lot easier but instead I have been piecing it together.

I have the motor, the 5 speed, full wiring harness and gas pedal. I have about 6 more months of gathering parts before I stab the motor in.

Looks good I have seen a 7.3 in a Early Bronco a few moths ago in my friends Bronco Driver Mag. it looked cool and fit. I would like to know what radiator they used in it.

Do you think that an Aluminum after market radiator about the size of a stock radiator will work?

guidolyons 02-23-2009 08:37 PM

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That's the plan, I'm pulling everything from the F250, wiring harness, intsrument panel, A/C. Stock scout size 80? no. Scout II rad? maybe. I'm planning on a Griffin HP series 27x19 2 3/4" thick cools 600hp and the info says they out-cool a 4 row copper/brass rad, most 2 core aluminum rads are 2 1/4" thick.

Most of the stock rad in the F250 is blocked by the bumper, only about half of it is actually getting air through the grille.

guidolyons 02-28-2009 10:22 PM

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Got the transmission & transfer case pulled and the wiring harness in the engine bay and HVAC removed. Luckily, there was just one big connector for all the sensors so I was able leave almost all of them still attached. Should have the engine pulled tomorrow.

Pulled the dash to get the rest of the wiring harness/ignition/instrument panel out. That took me longer than it will to pull the engine!

Attachment 425171

Attachment 425172

war pony 03-01-2009 10:14 AM

Hey Guido, you may want to get the shock mounts off the ford before you get rid of it.

guidolyons 03-01-2009 10:30 AM

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Yep. Already in the plans to go on the Scout. Now I won't have to make them.

guidolyons 03-02-2009 07:44 PM

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Pulled the PSD

Attachment 425738

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war pony 03-03-2009 07:24 PM

hey Guido, Is the scout set for the new motor? Good to see you got it out.

guidolyons 03-08-2009 10:41 PM

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While I had everything apart, I figured I would replace the clutch. The PSD has a dual mass flywheel (it has springs in it) that is prone to failure and cracking the transmission. I don't know how much slop is supposed to be in a dual mass flywheel, but mine seemed like it had a lot f excessive play. I didn't want take a chance with it going bad, so I got a solid flywheel conversion clutch combo and replaced the clutch. I pulled some more wiring harness and then started in on the Scout. Now is the this is the worst part, I've got both trucks torn down and I have a huge pile of parts...

:grinpimp:

Attachment 427175

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Attachment 427179


ZF vs T90 :laughing:
Attachment 427181

guidolyons 03-11-2009 09:13 PM

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First test fit went pretty well. :evil:

There will be some firewall adjustment, it needs to go back and down quite a bit more.

Attachment 427790

Attachment 427791

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guidolyons 03-18-2009 09:12 AM

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Well the front crosmember had to go, along with about 3" on each side of the transmission tunnel. It looks like a huge chop, but only about 3" wider on each side. Did another test fit:grinpimp:



Attachment 429419

It doesn't look like a big change, but I got it down and back a few more inches. I used a large turnbuckle as a stabilizer/ tilt adjustment

Attachment 429420

Valve covers peeking through the firewall

Attachment 429421

Attachment 429422

Shifter lines up:D

Attachment 429423

okkool77 03-18-2009 09:27 AM

All I have to say is HOLY SHIT, I honestly didn't believe that sucker would fit into a Scout. Keep up the pictures, I wanna see how this build works out...are you going to lengthen the frame at all?

war pony 03-18-2009 08:41 PM

looking good, that looked easy. keep up the good work :smokin:

chris fresh 03-18-2009 09:49 PM

what springs are you going to run up front? i've got an 05 with a 6.0 in it and that thing is way heavy up front.

98ZJ 03-19-2009 02:21 AM

Awesome! Keep the pics coming! Can't wait to see this thing move, you HAVE to get a video of it posted when it does. Do you have a rough ETA on this or no?

guidolyons 03-19-2009 07:21 AM

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warpony- Thanks for the motivation. It's not really *in* yet, I still have to mark the location for the motor mounts and build the new crossmember to tie the engine mounts together.

Chris- I've got Chevy 52's up front, so I think they are up to the task. I was going to take the overload spring off the bottom of the pack, but I might need to leave them in there :laughing: The front was a few inches too high anyway, so this *should* even it out. I have the a couple other spring packs and the springs from the F250 if I need to mix and match. The PSD is only a couple of hundred pounds more than a IH 345.

RIP Ted Ornas :(

I know it will be heavy up front, but I've seen several rigs with a big diesel up front and little to no weight in the back. If it does endos when I slam on the brakes, then I'll slap some tractor weights on the rear bumper :laughing:

I hope to get it driving in the next few months.
I'm moving in June/July, so I have to get it done by then, or at least mobile enough to get on the trailer.


Yes, there will be video :evil:

1wook 03-19-2009 07:52 AM

Moving right along. Make sure you have clearance for somethink larger than the stock pancaked down pipe.

guidolyons 03-19-2009 08:49 AM

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Yup that's in the works. Even if I wanted to (which I don't) I can't use the stock pancake downpipe anyway. My transfercase will be in the way. I'm ordering some 3" bends from summit and make my own downpipe.

Snoopy 03-19-2009 09:49 AM

sub

war pony 03-19-2009 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 9579703)
Yup that's in the works. Even if I wanted to (which I don't) I can't use the stock pancake downpipe anyway. My transfercase will be in the way. I'm ordering some 3" bends from summit and make my own downpipe.

Down pipes are so last year, all the cool kids are putting the turbo way in the back, I NEED MORE NOS

colorado_okie 03-21-2009 03:30 PM

Looks great Guido. Subscribed!

guidolyons 03-31-2009 11:16 AM

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Well, this is what I started with last weekend, I thought I might be able to re-use the stock F250 crossmember, but it was just too damn big and hung down too far. I finally cut, welded, and ground it into submission.

After a few more test fits and some more cutting and grinding, I got the motor mounts welded in and chopped the crossmember up.

Attachment 432784

Attachment 432785

Attachment 432786

I still need to finish the crossmember, add a lip on the front edge, some gussets, and 2 more bolts on each side. The center has to be removeable for the PSD to fit between the frame rails, firewall, and for the oil pan to clear. Plus if I ever need to drop the oil pan it will be easy. I'm going to integrate a oil pan skid off the back of the crossmember also.

New Griffin radiator :grinpimp: 27.5" x 19" x 2 core (2x1.25") solid 3" thick radiator. It fits behind the grille nice :D It's a little shorter than the stock F250 rad, but it's thicker and weighs about 2x as much. Should cool it nicely.
Attachment 432787

I got some 3" U bends and started working on the new turbo down pipe to get it across the back of the engine and down the driverside. Should flow better than the stock smashed flat pancake down pipe.

I chopped out the last remaining bits of the stock crossmember, it looks like I will keep the PS box in the inside of the frame rail, but I will have to rework the mounting slightly. With the stock crossmember gone, I can rotate it down for a better angle to clear the PSD PS pump and a flatter pitman arm angle.

montanatrout 03-31-2009 02:14 PM

i always thought this would be a cool swap. good luck with it!

AirZuk 03-31-2009 02:59 PM

Man this is awesome.. Keep up the good work

war pony 03-31-2009 05:43 PM

Hey Guido, Looking good. Is it an elision, or are you favoring the pass. side a bit?

guidolyons 03-31-2009 08:07 PM

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Nope, not an illusion, it's about 2" offset to the passenger side to clear the steering column, and Scout 80s the transmission tunnel is offset a few inches to the passenger side, too. It was offset to the passenger side in the F250 also, to clear the front diff.

JetFxr 03-31-2009 10:00 PM

Sub, I have a hell of a time keep a 7.3 cool in travelette and I have a wider frame for the radiator to ride in. I am impressed with your build/hide a ford:flipoff2:

guidolyons 03-31-2009 10:34 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by JetFxr (Post 9636737)
Sub, I have a hell of a time keep a 7.3 cool in travelette and I have a wider frame for the radiator to ride in. I am impressed with your build/hide a ford:flipoff2:

Nice Travelette :smokin: 7.3L N/A What fan/rad combo are you running? Fan shroud?

I am going to try the stock mechanical fan w/ fan shroud first and see how it does. I also have a Taurus fan if I need it. It seems like most of the F250 rad was blocked by the front bumper :confused:

Hide a ford :laughing:

it says International on the valve covers:flipoff2:

Snoopy 04-01-2009 08:56 AM

Very nice.,

JetFxr 04-01-2009 09:10 AM

3 Attachment(s)
I used a radiator that the book said was for a 91 f450, the rad sits on the frame so it is above the bumper. I am getting full air flow through the grill just a lot of motor to cool when towing. I have three electric fans mounted they are called Hurricane fans, the rad is wide and short like a cummings rad. With out cutting up the firewall I could not run a mechanical fan. The truck doe's great until I start pulling passes while towing a load.

guidolyons 04-01-2009 06:51 PM

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Thanks for the pics, that looks way too big to fit in the Scout :laughing:

What's the dimensions on that one v/s the aluminum one that you had trouble with?

I have confidence that the Griffin radiator will keep it cool, the core is 1/2" thicker than the stock F250 rad, but it's about 10" shorter. If it's having trouble cooling, I'll try some water wetter and/or Taurus fan.

I won't be towing with it and the Scout it a wee bit smaller than the Travelette. Thanks for the heads up.

guidolyons 04-01-2009 07:22 PM

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Couple more shots of the motor mounts. They wrap around the bottom of the frame.

Attachment 433067

Attachment 433069

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war pony 04-01-2009 08:42 PM

nice welds:smokin: looking forward to see it run

JetFxr 04-01-2009 09:24 PM

The radiator I started with was just a touch bigger than the stock rad in the Travelette. Considerably bigger than a Scout two radiator. It kept the 392 cool but melted down with the diesel. One thing you can watch is your pressure cap higher pressure higher your boiling point, but the diesel will loose power with higher temps:eek: Water wetter and the other snake oils have not worked at all for me AND I have tried them all. You will not have a condenser or any other BS in front of your rad that will be a big bonus, also not towing will be huge. I have a/c and a large p/s cooler in front of my radiator steering the 38s will over heat my p/s I feel and I did not want to tax the steering components. I am looking at a remote radiator some where under the bed between the frame rails with a louvered skid plate now but as I said only an issue when I have a 12,000lbs load. I think you will have far less problems as your uses will be different:grinpimp:

budget76 04-01-2009 10:08 PM

FWIW the water wetter did nothing for me either. Just a FYI, since it was in the BMW ;)

guidolyons 04-02-2009 09:51 PM

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JetFxr, thanks for the info. You are still having problems with over heating even with the larger F-450 rad? I'm not planning on towing 12,000 lbs so I'll keep my fingers crossed. :D

:( water wetter didn't work for you guys... I hope I don't need it.

Now for some pics, I got a couple of 3" U-bends from summit and made my new turbo down pipe. It should flow better than the stock pancake and gets my exhaust over to the driverside. It will get wrapped to help keep underhood temps down.

Attachment 433326

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dlarrivee 04-05-2009 02:49 AM

Is the York for OBA or A/C, or just left over?

guidolyons 04-05-2009 01:18 PM

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York OBA? That's a pic of JetFxr's engine, not mine.

98ZJ 04-05-2009 06:57 PM

Coming along nice....cant wait to see more! Awesome work so far...what size exhaust are you going to run?

war pony 04-05-2009 07:12 PM

Guido, are you going to shield that slave cylinder and maybe relocate the oil filter, from the heat?

guidolyons 04-05-2009 07:37 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by war pony (Post 9657654)
Guido, are you going to shield that slave cylinder and maybe relocate the oil filter, from the heat?

The downpipe will be wrapped to keep the heat down and keep it from cooking anything it's not supposed to. There's plenty of clearence around the oil filter, it's a little closer to the clutch slave, but I think I have enough clearence to keep it cool. Not that I have a lot of choice, it's a pretty tight squeeze to fit it all in there.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98ZJ (Post 9657595)
Coming along nice....cant wait to see more! Awesome work so far...what size exhaust are you going to run?

The downpipe is 3" that I'll adapt to the stock 3.5" exhaust that I'll be chopping up and reusing.

guidolyons 04-16-2009 11:16 AM

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Did a little welding last week, and by a little, I mean about 3,000 spot welds.:laughing:

I got the patch panels welded in to fill in the sections of firewall I cut out.

It doesn't look like I cleaned the paint off before I welded...but I did. :flipoff2:

Driver's side tacked in:
Attachment 436631

Passenger side tacked in:

Attachment 436632

Attachment 436633

AC baby :cool:

Attachment 436634

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guidolyons 04-16-2009 11:23 AM

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Gave it a shot of primer and some IH red.

Attachment 436637

I also got a set of Delta H4 Halogen conversion headlights with the built in auxillary "city light" that I'll swap for an amber bulb and wire in as a second turn signal. $78 from Amazon.com

Attachment 436638

Nice rubber boots on the backside.
Attachment 436639


This is the low wattage auxillary "city light"
Attachment 436640
These H4 bulbs will fit a stock sealed beam style 3 blade plug, but it's recommended to use high temp socket rated for halogen bulbs so they don't melt. I picked up a pair of Halogen H4 pigtails at Advance auto for $10.

Attachment 436641

guidolyons 04-16-2009 12:14 PM

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I also finished adding gussets and welded 3/8" round stock to smooth out and strengthen the front edge of the crossmember. Of course no welding project is complete with out the a shot of the professional gloss black spray paint job.

Attachment 436645

I also swapped in a Ford 31 spline input into the Chevy NP203 and did a test fit. Like it was made for it. I still need to order the doubler kit and before I decide on final clocking of the 203.

Attachment 436646

Attachment 436647

Attachment 436648

I'm looking at Jed's Machine or the NWF doubler. Jed's is cheaper, all steel (beefy) and I can set it how I want and weld it myself, but once it's welded, it's permanent. I like the adjustability and clocking on the NWF doubler, but it's aluminum and a little more expensive. I've read a few threads about issues with NWF threads stripping out?:confused:

Although OffRoadDesign's doubler is the original daddy, it's not an option for me becasue of the lack of adjustability/clocking options.

Chris Fresh has a Jed's Doubler (I think) and Brandon has NWF. What do you guys think? Anybody else have recommendations?

war pony 04-16-2009 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 9706908)
I also finished adding gussets and welded 3/8" round stock to smooth out and strengthen the front edge of the crossmember. Of course no welding project is complete with out the a shot of the professional gloss black spray paint job.

Attachment 436645

I also swapped in a Ford 31 spline input into the Chevy NP203 and did a test fit. Like it was made for it. I still need to order the doubler kit and before I decide on final clocking of the 203.

Attachment 436646

Attachment 436647

Attachment 436648

I'm looking at Jed's Machine or the NWF doubler. Jed's is cheaper, all steel (beefy) and I can set it how I want and weld it myself, but once it's welded, it's permanent. I like the adjustability and clocking on the NWF doubler, but it's aluminum and a little more expensive. I've read a few threads about issues with NWF threads stripping out?:confused:

Although OffRoadDesign's doubler is the original daddy, it's not an option for me becasue of the lack of adjustability/clocking options.

Chris Fresh has a Jed's Doubler (I think) and Brandon has NWF. What do you guys think? Anybody else have recommendations?

Looks real good Guido. Keep up the good work for us that are not. I think the Jeds will clock three positions after its welded. If I remember that was one I was looking at. ORD is the one for me, next thing to get now that taxes are done.

chris fresh 04-16-2009 06:53 PM

yeah mine is from jeds,really nice guy to deal with.told him i wanted it clocked up and he sent it to me welded up with all the fixins.it is beefy.tell him how much you wanna clock it and it will come ready to install.he was also the best price to,550 shipped if i remember correctly.he also throws in all the gasgets and the brass fitting for vent.that price was two years ago,so it might have changed,if i needed another one,jeds would get my business again for sure.

Blind Driver 04-16-2009 07:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris fresh (Post 9708501)
Yeah, mine is from Jeds. He's a really nice guy to deal with. I told him how I wanted it clocked up and he sent it to me welded up with all the fixins'. It is beefy. Tell him how much you it clocked, and it will come ready to install. He was also the best price too, $550 shipped if i remember correctly. He also throws in all the gaskets and the brass fitting for the vent. That price was two years ago, so it might have changed. If i need another one, Jeds would get my business again for sure.

Corrected because that made my eyes hurt :(





:flipoff2:

guidolyons 04-16-2009 08:08 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the info Chris. Good to know.

I need to be able to clock it myself, since I don't know how flat I'll be able to get the 205and still clear the frame, oil pan, and have a decent front driveshaft angle.

chris fresh 04-17-2009 05:27 AM

don't know if you can get it unwelded,but then again i never asked.also that price i posted might be off because i also had the input shaft going on at the same time.can't remember if the 550 included the shaft

guidolyons 04-19-2009 09:45 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Made some significant progress this weekend.

Last week I ordered Hushmat (summit brand) and DEI exhaust wrap to help take care of the vibration, turbo and exhaust heat.

Got the firewall covered:
Attachment 437171

Then bolted in the stock heatshield for some extra heat protection.
Attachment 437172

DEI Titanium wrap is good for 1800* direct contact/2500* indirect. Regular header wrap is only rated for 1200*-1500*

Attachment 437173
Wrapped up:

Attachment 437174
Installed:

Attachment 437175

guidolyons 04-19-2009 09:49 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
:mr-t:
Got the engine and transmission bolted in for good this time. No more engine hoist.
Attachment 437180

BLK Scout 800 04-19-2009 10:13 PM

:smokin:

Snoopy 04-20-2009 01:12 PM

Freakin' sweet job.

colorado_okie 04-24-2009 07:28 PM

Very cool, indeed!

okkool77 04-24-2009 08:08 PM

Very nice job with plenty of pictures, wanna come over to my place when you're done and swap a 7.3 into my ScoutII? :D

guidolyons 04-27-2009 09:09 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Sure! It will cost you eleventy billion dollars, you still in? :flipoff2:

Not much progress that's photo worthy. I cut the headlight buckets to fit the new H4 headlights and started making room for the dual battery trays. Unless I can find a smaller battery that still has enough CCA, the passenger side will have to be signifigantly modified so the radiator will fit.

guidolyons 05-04-2009 08:03 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
With the 7.3L intruding through the firewall, that didn't leave much room for a throttle pedal.

Attachment 440551

The stock pedals are bent offset about 3" to the passenger side.

No problemo.

I removed the pedals and heat the bends with my torch, clamped them in the vise and beat them into submission. Now they are straight and I have plenty of room for the throttle pedal.


Attachment 440552

I still have to fab a bracket for the throttle pedal, I'm just holding it in the pic.

Attachment 440553

Fabbed up some brackets for the dual batteries and did a test fit with the grille, radiator, and AC condenser. I still need to fab mounting brackets and fan shroud for the radiator. Stock upper hose fits, but I'll need to rework the lower to clear the fan, steering linkage, and frame.

Attachment 440554

Attachment 440555

BigBlueToy 05-04-2009 08:36 PM

Ive got a 6.9 I want to swap into my Defender 90. now I know theres a chance it will all fit. Nice project!

war pony 05-05-2009 06:58 PM

Looking good Guido , keep up the good work......and the pics.

zpi28 05-05-2009 07:15 PM

Looking good, thats some great work. Nice to see that beast squeezed in there. You sure have the fab skills. :D

budget76 05-05-2009 08:16 PM

Lookin good Guido :smokin:

chris fresh 05-05-2009 09:00 PM

top notch! now when is gonna be done?

guidolyons 05-06-2009 08:59 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Thanks guys, as long as I continue to make progress like I have been, I hope to get it driveable by the end of June. I still have a bunch of wiring to do (I've got the entire wiring harness from the F250), mount and plumb the fuel tank, get/mount shocks, and I need to order my doubler and get it mounted so I can get driveshafts sorted out.

Yesterday, I got a my new steering ujoint to replace the rag joint at the steering box and stabbed the steering column back in for mock up. It just clears the driverside exhaust manifold and steering pump, but I will have to re-work two of the mounting bolts on the PS box :mad: I did such a nice job when I originally did the powersteering swap, that it will be a bitch to cut out and sleeve the new holes. The good thing is since the stock crossmember is gone I was able to rotate the box down a bit for a better pitman arm angle.

guidolyons 05-12-2009 09:26 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
A little more progress. When I originally installed the power steering box, I had to mount it to clear the stock crossmember and it was angled a little steeper than I wanted. With the stock crossmember out of the way, I could tilt it down a bit to get a better pitman arm angle and steering shaft angle. Unfortunately I did just an awesome job sleeving the frame and building the mount that it was a PITA to move 2 of the bolt holes 3/4".:mad1:

I had just enough room for the steering shaft to clear the fender and exhaust manifold, I added an extra mount to help keep the shaft lined up, it's an exhaust clamp and U bolt:

Attachment 442438

Steering shaft sneaks out just under the PS pump:
Attachment 442439

Built a new steering column mount that reused the original firewall mount and bolts onto the pedal assembly:

Attachment 442440

Attachment 442441

The old rag joint steering wasn't cutting it, got a U-joint from Speedway motors.

Attachment 442442

Brandon 05-12-2009 10:06 PM

281 Attachment(s)
I used the same joints :)

Ben Segrest 05-12-2009 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 9820498)

What is that sticking out of the top of the box side of the joint? Is it a QD release or just an allen head without a lock nut?

Brandon 05-12-2009 10:38 PM

281 Attachment(s)
number 2

guidolyons 05-13-2009 05:45 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Yup, allen head without the lock nut on it. It will probably come in and out a few more times before it's in for good.

Coming up next...finish mounting the radiator, wiring harness, mounting the fuel tank, plumbing, and routing the exhaust.

guidolyons 05-28-2009 09:10 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
I finished up mounting the radiator and AC condenser :beer:
After scratching my head a bit on how to mount the radiator and clear the PS box, I ended up notching the frame and sinking the radiator down about 3". This allowed me to tie into a new crossmember (1/4" angle) that passes under the PS box. Originally, I measured for fitting the radiator above the frame which limited the height to 19". If the 27.5" x 19" x 3" radiator has trouble keeping things cool, I now have room for a 27.5" x 22" x 3" rad if I need it. :cool:

I reused some the F250 radiator brackets, and a few other odds and ends I had laying around. I used 3/16 high density foam automotive weather stripping to cushion the radiator. I cut up 2 sets of barrel hinges for my clamping tabs, and to mount the AC condenser.

Lower crossmember/ radiator mount:

Attachment 445459

Attachment 445460

Attachment 445461

Attachment 445462

AC condenser mounted:
Attachment 445463

guidolyons 05-28-2009 09:14 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
A few more of the radiator, everything fits under the hood.

Attachment 445464

Attachment 445465

Attachment 445466


Bling-Bling :grinpimp:Jed's Machine 203-205 doubler
38 lbs of beautifully machined steel with a billet 8620 32 spline input shaft They can respline your old shaft, or for about $60 more go for the upgraded shaft. Mine was ~$625 shipped. I ordered mine unwelded since I don't know how much I can clock the 205 yet.

Super quick service I ordered on Friday and got it on Wednesday (with a Memorial Day holiday)
http://www.jedsmachining.com/

Attachment 445467

Attachment 445468

guidolyons 05-28-2009 09:17 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
A few more pics of the 7.3L shoved in there. :beer: Up next... fuel and wiring :grinpimp:

Attachment 445469

Attachment 445470

war pony 05-28-2009 10:22 PM

Looking good Guido, Are you going to use a water can in a higher location since the radiator is lower? Bling parts look nice, I just got mine also. I went with ORD 2" up rotation.

guidolyons 05-29-2009 06:50 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Yup, there's a spot for overflow bottle between the battery and blower motor on the passenger side fender that will be the highest point in the system.

guidolyons 06-30-2009 08:51 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
UPDATE: As of 20090629 at 0205 hours !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!! Wooo Hoooo
It actually started quite easily, just a few seconds of cranking and she roared to life I was worried that since the fuel lines had been disconnected for so long that it would take a while to start.

I still have a bunch of work to finish though.

I've been busy the last few weeks, I got the Ford fuel tank mounted and the fuel lines plumbed, finished installing the 203-205 doubler, made a rear driveshaft, routed the exhaust, finished the hooking up the engine harness wiring, and a bunch of other odds and ends.

war pony 06-30-2009 05:36 PM

Guido, pics or it didn't happen. way to go anyway:D

guidolyons 07-01-2009 05:51 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by war pony (Post 10009997)
Guido, pics or it didn't happen. way to go anyway:D

You mean video? :flipoff2:

Suck it warpony!:D

http://s26.photobucket.com/player.sw...fs=1&os=1&ap=1

levi1a 07-01-2009 08:19 PM

Fawkin :smokin: Looks like about 10 lbs of shit in a 5 lbs sack. Nice :smokin::smokin:

war pony 07-02-2009 06:06 AM

I did not expect video, Looks and sounds good Guido.

guidolyons 07-03-2009 08:51 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Thanks warpony :beer:

Here's another video that I finally got uploaded:

http://s26.photobucket.com/player.sw...fs=1&os=1&ap=1

Installed the rear fuel tank from the F250 between the frame just behind the transfercases.
Attachment 452159

Made a mount for the filler neck:


Attachment 452160

Attachment 452161


Exhaust won't fit over the axle and clear the fuel tank, so I turned it to come out just ahead of the rear wheelwell.

Attachment 452162

Attachment 452163

guidolyons 07-03-2009 08:56 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Then I started on the wiring:
Attachment 452165

It wasn't too bad, I had labeled everything well when I took it out of the F250 and most of the connections would only attach one way.

The PCM and injector control module fit perfectly right in a small ammo can

Attachment 452168

Sealed around the connections with some RTV and mounted it to the fender along with the fuse/relay box.

Attachment 452166

Attachment 452167

guidolyons 07-03-2009 09:16 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
The GM 205 I had has the long slipjoint output, so I swapped the shorter 32 spline Ford output with yoke.

Ford 205 on the left and GM 205 on the right:
Attachment 452170

Attachment 452171

Attachment 452173
While, I had the output shaft out, did the twin-stick mod to the shift rail only took about 30 min.

Remove the detent ball and knock out the freeze plug and roll pin:

Attachment 452174

Attachment 452175

guidolyons 07-03-2009 09:22 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
It's easy to see on the stock shift rail where the detent balls ride and need to be ground down:
Attachment 452176

Marked it with a marker and took a few passes with a flap wheel on the grinder:

Attachment 452177

Reinstalled the shift rail and then I bolted up the 205 to the 203 and adpater plate so I could mock up and figure out how far I could clock the 205. It's about 19.5" long.
Attachment 452178

I was hoping to get the 205 rotated up far enough with out hitting the frame... oops

Attachment 452179

A little notching was required:

Attachment 452180

guidolyons 07-03-2009 09:25 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
I boxed the frame reinforce it:
Attachment 452181

Attachment 452182
It looks like it hangs down a lot, but it's only about 3" below the frame rail.

203 205 doubler from the rear, before I installed the fuel tank:
Attachment 452183

war pony 07-04-2009 09:18 AM

Guido ,That 7.3 sounds so good in that scout. Great job, now get a 60 under the front end and you are set.

Mechanos 07-04-2009 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 10022092)
The GM 205 I had has the long slipjoint output, so I swapped the shorter 32 spline Ford output with yoke.

Ford 205 on the left and GM 205 on the right:
Attachment 452170

Attachment 452171

Attachment 452173
While, I had the output shaft out, did the twin-stick mod to the shift rail only took about 30 min.

Remove the detent ball and knock out the freeze plug and roll pin:

Attachment 452174

Attachment 452175

I hope you swapped front shafts while you were in the 205.

guidolyons 07-05-2009 08:18 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Mechanos (Post 10024491)
I hope you swapped front shafts while you were in the 205.

I didn't, but I will. I still need to swap the front output and figure out the front driveshaft, I think it will be a 2 piece with a carrier bearing since it will be about 4 feet long:eek: Both the Chevy and Ford 205 has wussy 1310 front yokes, so when I get a new yoke, I'll swap in the 32spline ford front output.

guidolyons 07-28-2009 11:48 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
With the move and all, work on the Scout has taken a back seat to getting boxes unpacked and getting the garage organized. After working in the garage-mahal, it will be hard to go back to just a "2" car garage. I only have a few more weeks left before my vacation leave days are up and I have to go to Ft Benning and I will be Scoutless :(

So I am trying to get as much done as I can before I leave.

I got some new shoes for the Scout BFG KM2 37x12.50-17 :grinpimp: Should work nicely with the 4.10 gears and the PSD.

Attachment 457118

Attachment 457119

war pony 07-28-2009 06:29 PM

Nice shoes, Guido. I hope you wont be gone too long.

guidolyons 08-14-2009 10:27 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Got the tires mounted and balanced (airsoft BBs) just in time to put it on jack stands and sit until I get home.

Much mo'better than the tiny worn out swampers I had for rollers :grinpimp:might need a little trimming for full flex:evil:

Attachment 460520

Attachment 460521

Attachment 460522

levi1a 08-14-2009 11:02 PM

Looking :smokin:. This should be an instant link to anyone asking will there engine swap project fit/work. Along with the proper Pirate STFU Noob of course.

Brandon 08-22-2009 08:50 PM

281 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 9462123)
Swapped in a steering column from late 80's Chevy, and power steering box from '95 Chevy with Ballistic Fab hi-steer arms (wagoneer knuckles milled by Jnutter), drop pitman arm for late 70's wagoneer.


Attachment 423912

Attachment 423913

And donned my blue nitrile gloves and swapped in a master cylinder from a 4 wheel disc brake '79 grand marquis (thanks HoS)
Attachment 423914

Rear bumper 90% complete, I'm waiting to finish once I decide how much to cut the rear quarters.

Attachment 423917


More pics of the rear bumper? I am brainstorming mine - guessing most people just ditch the stock rear body mount crossmember doohicky?

guidolyons 08-22-2009 09:46 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Brandon, unfortunatly I didn't take very many pics of the rear bumper build. The bottom pic a few post up from this one has one of the better pics of it. I posted a pic in your thread. I went back and looked through my pics and found another:

Attachment 462010

plug ugly 08-23-2009 11:48 AM

19 gallon tank? I plan to use a ford tank too, and am going to cut and splice the fuel tank door into the scout, but thats a great idea too. the Van tank (e250) is nearly the same size, and 22 gallons, if you are looking for a little more.

are those locked H2's?

guidolyons 08-23-2009 04:37 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by plug ugly (Post 10218821)
19 gallon tank? I plan to use a ford tank too, and am going to cut and splice the fuel tank door into the scout, but thats a great idea too. the Van tank (e250) is nearly the same size, and 22 gallons, if you are looking for a little more.

are those locked H2's?

Yeah, Ballistic H2 aluminum beadlocks, I was going to run H1's but I wanted to be have the option to swap wheels/and or tires with my Dodge, so I started looking for some 17" rims, found them for sale on PBB.


Yeah, stock ford 19 gallon rear tank. Worked like it was meant to fit there. It's turned 90* from stock orientation, so the fuel lines are on the driver's side and the fuel filler faces to the rear. I still have my saddle tanks and I *think* I will be able to use the stock fuel tank selctor valve to feed the main center tank. 19 gallons should be plenty, +20 gallons in the saddle tanks will more than sufficent:grinpimp:

The ford tank is ~35"x27"x8" if it was any deeper and there will be clearence issues with rear driveshaft and/or rear axle, depending on transfercase/drivetrain combo.

plug ugly 08-23-2009 08:28 PM

could you fit a second tank over the pumpkin to the bumper?

guidolyons 08-24-2009 06:22 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by plug ugly (Post 10220162)
could you fit a second tank over the pumpkin to the bumper?

That's where I originally planned to put it, but without more suspension lift or body lift, there's not much room directly above the rear axle. There is a small amount of room behind the axle, so if you had to, you could probably cram a small tank back there.

NEIH 08-29-2009 07:50 PM

Looking Good!

guidolyons 08-01-2010 07:55 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
I have a small update. I was home for 2 weeks of midtour leave in July. I spent 5 days in Vegas, and just vegged out for a few days, but I did manage to get in a little bit of work one day. While I've been deployed I have been ordering parts (shocks, XRC-10 winch, ARB for the 14BFF, Wild Horse EB flares and some other odds and ends, gauges, etc) so I'll have a bunch to do when I get home. I have been brainstorming on what I wanted to do to fix my rockers. I had some rust and I wanted to build some rocker protection. I like Scout254's rockers and decided to do a mini-boatside similar to his. I get to cut out some rust and will gain 2-3" under the rocker panels.

Here's a googlesketch of my idea:
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...7&d=1279830296

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...8&d=1279830296

With some blue painters tape I marked off a straight line and chopped off the bottom of the rockers ~5-6".
Here's a piece of 2x2x.188 angle that will form the base and inner structure of the boatside. The inner rocker will be trimmed flush with the floor and the bottom of the boatside will have a piece of ~1x3 tube to account for the step between the floor and the bottom of the gastank. It will all get skinned with some 3/16" strap to give a smooth surface and protect from wheelwell to wheellwell.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...4&d=1279830111

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...5&d=1279830135

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...6&d=1279830170

When I get home for good, I'll be getting transferred so I'll have a super wrench-a-thon. I have to get the Scout road worthy and registered ASAP so I can get it on the boat to Hawaii.

war pony 08-01-2010 08:54 AM

Thats a long way from Texas, even farther from the sand box.

guidolyons 08-01-2010 09:15 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Yes, yes it is. :cool:

Nothing like a PCS move to put the pressure on :p I work better under pressure. I should be able to get some good wrench time in and the garage won't be 120*

So...slacker, made any progress on the Warpony? :flipoff2:

binderbound 08-01-2010 09:54 AM

WOW! I just read this thing from start to last post. A-mazing! This was one great build. Maybe, someday I'll get to see it in person.

:beer::smokin:

guidolyons 08-01-2010 10:37 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Thanks BinderBound :beer: I remember reading through your TracTracTor build back when I first got my Scout.

plug ugly 08-01-2010 11:28 AM

guido, any chance you can measure those 52's from centerpin to front spring eye bolt? Im trying to get an idea of the actual length under load. Im guessing about 24"

guidolyons 08-01-2010 12:03 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Sorry, I'm back in Iraq. Ask me again in about 3 months. :flipoff2:

plug ugly 08-01-2010 01:06 PM

stay safe

guidolyons 08-01-2010 03:57 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Thanks, will do :usa:

plug ugly, something that might help you with your spring placement, I read a thread about setting shackle angle (there were a few posts by trkklr77 IIRC) and using the measurements of the flat spring when figuring out spring/shackle placement.

Here's what I did: I dropped a plumb bob from the frame where I wanted the axle centerline to be, then measured forward the same amount as the center pin to the center of the eye (26" for 52" Chevy springs) and tacked my front spring hangers on. With the springs bolted up to the axle, lowerd the weight down on the springs with a block of wood on each side to make sure the spring eye would clear the frame. I bolted up the shackle and set the shackle angle at ride height to see where I needed to mount the hanger. Double checked to make sure everything was square and even. I still had to mess with my shackle angle a bit before I got it where I wanted it bit it seemed to work pretty well. HTH :beer:

binderbound 08-01-2010 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 11714738)
Thanks BinderBound :beer: I remember reading through your TracTracTor build back when I first got my Scout.

Thank god you didn't do ANYTHING I did.:flipoff2: I dont know what I was doing exactly, I think it was more luck than anything that it held together this long. Your build is super cool!

Stay safe!

guidolyons 10-21-2010 09:17 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
All right...time for some updates!!!

I made it home from Iraq at the beginning of October and after some relaxation I got to work on the Scout. Once again, I'll be getting transferred again soon and I have to get the Scout street-worthy, registered and insured so the Army will ship it to Hawaii.

First, I redid both sides of the floor with .125" diamond tread floorplate and built some seat brackets with some 1.25"x.080" square tube:

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287714690

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287714715

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287714747

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287714800

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287714832

guidolyons 10-21-2010 09:18 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Once I had my floors fixed up, I could get to work on my mini boatsides. The mini boatsides are 2x2x.188 angle, 1x2x.080 rect tube, and 3"x.188" strap/flat stock. There are 20 bolts in each one (eight 3/8" bolts countersunk along the bottom, and twelve 3/8" bolts along the top edge with nut plates inside) the mini boatsides took care of my rusty rocker panels, protect the stock side gas tanks, give me some protection and a little more clearance under the doors/rocker panel. I will be trimming the fenders and clean up the edges.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287715766

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287715798

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287715846

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287715883

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1287716039

Buck Dodson 10-21-2010 10:37 PM

Looks good, are you going to run the stock tanks?

guidolyons 10-22-2010 07:19 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
I've got the 19 gal F250 tank, but I'm keeping the saddle tanks becasue I'm thinking about using the saddle tanks as a reserve, or for waste veggie oil and/or bio diesel and use the Ford tank selector valve to switch back and forth.

Buck Dodson 10-22-2010 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 12026903)
I made it home from Iraq at the beginning of October.

I didn't see this part, Welcome home and thank you for your service.:usa:

war pony 10-22-2010 11:01 AM

Hey Guidolyons, Welcome back and good to see you are back on the build. that is a good idea on the fuel tanks. A clean out and start up mode.

MochaMike 10-22-2010 11:19 AM

Welcome back/thanks for you service.

Make sure you get most of the stuff you need before you go to Hawaii.
My buddy just moved back & he said life there was grand, as long as you didn't need anything from the mainland....

crashhawk 10-22-2010 05:13 PM

Welcome back GL. Can't wait to see what you got planned.

Hope you racked up the hours while deployed, I hear they're hard to come by in HI.

plug ugly 10-22-2010 07:24 PM

welcome back quido.

just a thought, but what about putting 1/4 or 3/8 flat stock between the bolt heads, to prevent a rock from snagging and tearing a bolt head.

IDScout 10-22-2010 08:46 PM

GLAD YOU MADE IT BACK SAFE AND SOUND!

Good to see some progress being made.



Quote:

Originally Posted by plug ugly (Post 12030686)
just a thought, but what about putting 1/4 or 3/8 flat stock between the bolt heads, to prevent a rock from snagging and tearing a bolt head.

That is a great idea:smokin:

guidolyons 10-22-2010 10:30 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by crashhawk (Post 12030230)
Hope you racked up the hours while deployed, I hear they're hard to come by in HI.

Nope, I was on a MiTT with the Iraqi Army, not flying :(

Quote:

Originally Posted by plug ugly (Post 12030686)
welcome back quido.

just a thought, but what about putting 1/4 or 3/8 flat stock between the bolt heads, to prevent a rock from snagging and tearing a bolt head.

I like the exposed bolts, but if it's a problem, I could always use some button head allen head bolts.

Snoopy 10-25-2010 07:13 AM

Love the work done. Great job on the floors and sweet rock sliders.

SSGTWC 10-25-2010 06:03 PM

Good to see ya back Man! Damn, it just seems like last month you moved down to Texas.

guidolyons 11-25-2010 03:11 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Happy Thanksgiving :beer:
The Scout is on the way to Hawaii. I had it dropped off in Dallas yesterday, it gets shipped to San Diego, then on a boat to Hawaii.


After a serious wrench-a-thon I got it put back together and registered.

After fabricating, installing and removing so many parts to make sure everything was going to fit together correctly it feels good to be on the home stretch of "final" assembly. Over the last three weeks, I fabricated a new dash (I'll post pics of that later), installed the rollbar and seatbelt mounts, installed the XRC10 winch, fabbed up emergency brake system, pulled the top off, and sprayed Al's DIY bedliner on the tub.

http://www.alsliner.com/index.php

The Al's Liner is some pretty cool stuff. It's a 3 part polyurethane bedliner that you mix and spray on. I'm sure it's too thick in some places and too thin in others, but for a rookie bedliner sprayer-on-er I think it came out pretty damn good. I used 2 gallons.

Attachment 561018

Attachment 561019

Attachment 561021

I wanted to sink the winch down behind the bumper, but I'm running out of time to get it done, so I just stuck it up top, looks pretty good so it will probably stay there. I added some blingin' stainless hood louvers too (à la Rick Westra)

Attachment 561020

Here's the top going back on:
Attachment 561022

Next up: ARB locker, and reinstall the dash and finish some electrical wiring for the turn signals and speedometer.

guidolyons 11-25-2010 03:16 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
The Scout is registered and about 90-95% complete and ready to be my daily driver. I I finished up some wiring and got turn signals and running/parking lights hooked up.

My brake light switch seems to have shit the bed. It's a hydraulic switch plumbed in just off the master cylinder. I can get the brake lights on with a jumper wire, but the switch isn't working. I got a replacement, but with the limited tools I have since the movers came and packed up all I couldn't get the old switch off. I think I'm going to have to re-do some brake line plumbing to get my brake lights fixed once I get my Scout and tools back in the same place.

I have to pass inspection to get it from the dock once it arrives in Hawaii, so I'll rig up a momentary switch on the pedal to get past the inspection (I hope).

Here's some pics of the dash, I still have to finish up a little finish work around the edges and install the rest of my gauges (pyro, boost, oil pressure, and water temp) but it's mostly done. I built a frame from 1.25 x.083 and 1" x .063 square tubing and bent the aluminum diamond tread around it. I did the long break along the top edge with my sheet metal brake, and the rest I beat into submission with a 3lb deadblow hammer. There's about 60 screws holding the diamond tread skin on the frame.

Attachment 561023

Attachment 561024


I also got the ARB installed in the rear. I still need to plumb the compressor and airlines.

Attachment 561025

That's a Ruff Stuff diff cover: 3/8" thick, fully welded and machined flat for a leak free fit.

Attachment 561026

Nothing to do now but find a place to live that's Scout friendly, and wait for my junk to arrive.

JetFxr 11-25-2010 04:02 PM

Nice T-case shifters :flipoff2:

guidolyons 11-25-2010 06:23 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by JetFxr (Post 12163793)
Nice T-case shifters :flipoff2:

Thanks, I can't remember where I got the idea:flipoff2:

:grinpimp:

Chief yelling alot 11-25-2010 08:52 PM

Wow this is one bitchen scout :smokin::smokin: keep up the good work !

war pony 11-26-2010 08:16 PM

looks good man. you are on the home stretch, keep up the momentum.:D

guidolyons 11-26-2010 08:51 PM

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Thanks guys :beer:

Dan, any progress on the Warpony?

war pony 11-27-2010 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 12168147)
Thanks guys :beer:

Dan, any progress on the Warpony?

NO ,My Wife and I are now both out of work. I am doing some side work but not to much. Needless to say it's on the back burner.

guidolyons 11-28-2010 12:35 PM

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:( That sucks dude, hang in there. Good luck on the job search.

mountainguyed67 11-28-2010 08:29 PM

Good looking build,will be watching for more pics.Only recently noticed you just got back from Iraq. Welcome home! I was there in 04.

guidolyons 12-08-2010 06:09 PM

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So I was going back through my pics and found a few that I hadn't downloaded yet.
Hey Mechanos, I finally got around to fixing my caster angle on the front. :flipoff2:

When I first swapped in the 10 bolt, I had mounted the front of the springs just under the bumper, as I didn't want big fangs sticking down and killing my approach angle. Unfortunately, that gave me about 14* positive caster (top of knuckle tilted back) which wasn't a big deal when it was sitting on jack stands :laughing:
I ordered 7* STEEL caster shims from DIY4X but when I finally got around to putting the shims in... springs hit the tie rod:mad: I tried taking out the overload, nope. :mad: Still hit.

So... I ended up cutting off the spring hangers and making new ones. I used some extra 3/8" shackles from Ruff Stuff, 3"x.250 square tubing, and some 3/16" flat stock. The angled piece is part if the original spring hanger. I still need to add some gussets, but I don't think they are going anywhere. I dropped the front mounting holes down about 3.5" which gave me a MUCH better caster angle and leveled out my springs.

I haven't measured it yet, but it looks like it will be good, and I shouldn't have to do a cut and turn. Which is good becasue I don't plan on keeping the 10 bolt anyway...

I might have a lead on a D60::grinpimp::

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PA261500.JPG

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PA261503.JPG

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PA261504.JPG

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PA261506.JPG

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PA261508.JPG

guidolyons 12-11-2010 06:33 PM

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WoooHooo. I found a D60F. :grinpimp: Went and looked at it today. DRW/w 4.10s (which is the ratio I need) The guy has a set of SRW hubs that he'll swap. :flipoff2:
I should pick it up after Christmas.

war pony 12-13-2010 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 12236336)
WoooHooo. I found a D60F. :grinpimp: Went and looked at it today. DRW/w 4.10s (which is the ratio I need) The guy has a set of SRW hubs that he'll swap. :flipoff2:
I should pick it up after Christmas.

Nice get, good on you. That will be a happy 7.3 now.:D

guidolyons 12-13-2010 09:15 PM

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It will be a happy Guido, too. I won't cringe everytime it's in 4WD waiting for something to go :nuke:

I figure I'll have a better chance selling the 10 bolt if it's still in one piece.
:laughing:

guidolyons 01-01-2011 04:47 PM

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Happy New Year!

The Good News: Well, last week the Scout arrived in Hawaii and I got it over to the new Casa de Lyons. I guess I did pretty well on my front end alignment and caster, as it's maiden voyage I drove it ~30 miles from the port to my house.

While not a white knuckle ride, it was pretty nerve wracking, not knowing if it was going to make it. After all, I had only driven it around the block once before it was loaded up to ship.
It did fine up to 55mph, then I started to get some body sway. I think I'll adjust the shocks (Rancho RS9000XL have 9 positions of adjustment) and see if that helps. If that doesn't work, I'll hit the junkyard for some sway bars.

The AirSoft BBs did great to balance the tires, and it didn't overheat or burst into flames, so that was a big plus :D

I'll be picking up my D60F after the New Year.:grinpimp:

The Bad News: Boy, have I got a bone to pick with the trucking company that picked up the Scout. As I was going through the inspection with the guys at the dock, I noticed a HUGE problem with my hood. At first I thought something had been dropped on it or someone stood on the hood, but after a closer look, it was obvious that the hood came unlatched and smashed into the top of the windshield.:mad3:

The only time the Scout had EVER been going fast enough for that to happen had to be in I-35N going to Dallas.
The shipping documents show that there was a large dent in the hood when it was delivered to Dallas for shipment. So obviously, it was damaged between Corpus Christi and Dallas, not between Dallas and Honolulu.

The latch at the top of the windshield is bent, and there is a larger crease across the center of the hood, and the hinge on the passenger side is broken.

As happy as I was that the Scout made it here....I am madder than a wet chicken right now.
I'm going to contact the trucking company and see what they plan on doing to compensate me...but I have a bad feeling about getting any $$$ out of them.

I'm sure I'll be able to get it straightened out, but it pisses me off that the guy didn't even tell me about it. I mean I know the Scout is rough around the edges and will never get 1st place at the "Show and Shine" but I guess I'll add that to the body work I need to do before I can paint it.

The Auto Skills Center here has a paint booth, so I'm going to paint it myself, eventually.

If I can get a hinge, I think I can get the hood reasonably straight again.
http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PIC-0099.jpg

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PIC-0098.jpg

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PC291612.JPG

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PC291613.JPG

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PIC-0089.jpg

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PIC-0094.jpg

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...m/PIC-0097.jpg

wesfab 01-02-2011 07:37 AM

Dude, I looked at your pictures before i read your post. My first thought was "how did he get his hood to open so far? I did that any my hinge broke." That sucks, i hope someone will fess up and you dont get screwed on this one.

I have that exact hood, I'd give it to you if you arrange the ride. A few of the bolts snapped at the hinge, but would probably come out with an EZ-out. Same color too

guidolyons 01-02-2011 07:44 PM

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Yeah well...thanks for the offer, but I think $hipping to Hawaii might kinda be a little on the expensive side. :laughing:

*edit* might still be cheaper than getting the hood fixed at a body shop, though. Might be an option if the trucking company screws me.

My hood opened that far before it was broken, when I was working on the engine swap, I put the hood up and latched it to the windshield.

guidolyons 02-07-2011 03:49 PM

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Well...I finally got my D60F :grinpimp: and drug it home on Saturday. It's DRW, but I pulled a set of SRW hubs off anothe D60 that he had. It will be a bit before I swing it under the Scout, (I need to order high steer arms) but when I do, it *should* bolt right in.

XJAbuzer 02-07-2011 04:00 PM

So, what ever happened with the trucking company?

war pony 02-07-2011 04:01 PM

Make sure you take some pics of that dana 60 install, and try to include some hula dancers.:D

guidolyons 02-08-2011 02:57 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by XJAbuzer (Post 12493536)
So, what ever happened with the trucking company?

Nothing, yet. Even if I get an estimate from a body shop, I doubt I'll see any restitution from the trucking company.


Quote:

Originally Posted by war pony (Post 12493542)
Make sure you take some pics of that dana 60 install, and try to include some hula dancers.:D

:grinpimp: Hula Girls... I wish...


Sorry, I don't have the mad skillz of Dan Dibble :flipoff2:

Drew Merrick 02-10-2011 11:58 AM

Guido, since the 30 mile trip have you been driving the scout around on that island?

guidolyons 02-12-2011 02:43 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Not really, I still have to get it inspected here and wanted to at least get the hood hinge fixed before I did that. I've been really busy at work and haven't had time to take it in and get all the paperwork done. I *hope* to get it inpected in the next week and start driving.

guidolyons 03-17-2011 04:29 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Well, I got a new hinge for the hood, so now it closes properly, although it still has a big dent in it, I've got other things to sort out before I worry about the fixing the hood.

I failed inspection (I knew I would fail unless the guy was blind in both eyes, but I neded to find out EXACTLY what I needed to fix)... for those of you that don't know, Hawaii, the island of Oahu specifically, has some pretty crazy vehicle code/law. In addition to a standard yearly safety inspection, if you have a modified vehicle you have to pass a reconstruction "recon" inspection. The recon inspection is a one time inspection (assuming you don't make any other mods). There's only one place in Honolulu that does the inspection, and I need to fix a few more things before I go in for that. I have to show proof of alignment, and a bunch of other junk.

The biggest thing I need to fix is my fender flares don't cover the tire and I have to have mudflaps, too.


I mocked up the Wild Horses Bronco flares that I bought last year (before I found out I was coming to Hawaii) to see how they would look and where I needed to trim. I ordered a larger set of flares that I *hope* will get me through the recon inspection.
I think the Bronco flares look pretty good...now non-IHer's will REALLY think it's a Bronco :laughing:

Attachment 584097

Attachment 584098

Attachment 584099

guidolyons 03-17-2011 04:34 PM

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I also swapped out the DRW hubs for SRW hubs on my D60. Once I get my High steer arms from Ballistic Fab, I'll go ahead and swap in the D60 before I get my alignment to pass recon inspection.

I replaced the bearings and hub seal while I was in there, the old bearings were shot.

Attachment 584101

Attachment 584102

Attachment 584103

Attachment 584104

MochaMike 03-17-2011 04:36 PM

That's strange. I'd ask around a bit.

My buddy just moved back here after 5 years in Maui.
He says the DMV & the Cops on Maui use the word "braaau" every other word.
As long as your not drunk or stoned, they could care less.

guidolyons 03-17-2011 04:40 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by MochaMike (Post 12662453)
That's strange. I'd ask around a bit.

My buddy just moved back here after 5 years in Maui.
He says the DMV & the Cops on Maui use the word "braaau" every other word.
As long as your not drunk or stoned, they could care less.

Maui doesn't have the recon inspection...just Oahu :flipoff2:

MochaMike 03-17-2011 04:44 PM

Take it to Maui...

http://www.tvleak.com/wp-content/gal...truck-boat.jpg

war pony 03-17-2011 04:49 PM

Hey Guidolyons, Nice Bronco :flipoff2: Good to see that 60 is going in, hope the DMV thing works out.

guidolyons 03-18-2011 12:14 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by MochaMike (Post 12662483)

Good Idea! Why didn't I think of that:flipoff2::laughing:

Quote:

Originally Posted by war pony (Post 12662499)
Hey Guidolyons, Nice Bronco :flipoff2: Good to see that 60 is going in, hope the DMV thing works out.

Thanks Dan, your Bronco ain't too bad either:flipoff2:

solidmaui78 04-22-2011 10:22 PM

Maui has some good trails, and the cops over here are cool about the trucks on the road .... oahu is another story. and we do not have recon here thank God :)

guidolyons 04-23-2011 12:17 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Yeah, I need some pontoons, propeller, and a rudder!

I got my wider fender flares mounted, but I am STILL waiting on some parts from Ballistic Fab so I can finish putting the D60 in, get an alignment, and hopefully I can get an appointment and pass inspection.

MochaMike 04-23-2011 12:24 AM

Should have called Ruff Stuff...:homer:

IDScout 04-24-2011 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 11494254)
I






HATE





YOU!
:flipoff2:

Good to see you have a 60 now. :flipoff2:

guidolyons 04-25-2011 12:57 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by MochaMike (Post 12810238)
Should have called Ruff Stuff...:homer:

If Dan sold D60 high steer arms, I'd already have them, that's for sure. I have a bunch of parts from Dan (diff covers, spring hangers, etc) and Ruff Stuff is top-notch, with quick, cheap shipping (it's amazing how much Dan can cram in a flat rate USPS box).

I bought parts from Ballistic in the past and had great parts/service...but now... not so much. I'm 2 months behind now.:mad3:

I got the fenders cut with the new wider flares, added mud flaps, and a few other odds and ends.

Once I get the steering parts, I should finish the D60 swap, get an alignment, and get my inspection... hopefully.

war pony 04-25-2011 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 12815950)
If Dan sold D60 high steer arms, I'd already have them, that's for sure. I have a bunch of parts from Dan (diff covers, spring hangers, etc) and Ruff Stuff is top-notch, with quick, cheap shipping (it's amazing how much Dan can cram in a flat rate USPS box).

I bought parts from Ballistic in the past and had great parts/service...but now... not so much. I'm 2 months behind now.:mad3:

I got the fenders cut with the new wider flares, added mud flaps, and a few other odds and ends.

Once I get the steering parts, I should finish the D60 swap, get an alignment, and get my inspection... hopefully.

If you can change your order, I would like you to look at WFO for the high steer arms.

guidolyons 04-25-2011 08:02 PM

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Yeah... I was checking WFO, Poly Perf, Parts Mike out last night, I'm going to give Ballistic a chance to fix it, but if it doesn't get resolved soon, I'm ordering from somebody that has stock on hand can deliver riki-tik.

guidolyons 05-02-2011 01:21 AM

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All right, well... I have made some progress, but I've been delayed getting the D60 swap done since I'm waiting on some hi-steer parts from Ballistic Fab :mad::mad: but I did make some progress in the fender flare department. The original Wild Horses Gorilla flares I got only add about 2.5" of tire coverage, and in order to pass the reconstruction inspection in Oahu :mad: :mad: I need to cover the tires and add mud flaps. So I ordered up the Wild Horses Silverback Flares which cover about 4"-4.5" which covers the rear great, and I'll probably have to get creative to pass on the front, but it's a lot better. The mud flaps look stupid...but it's better than getting a ticket.

Scout purists, turn your eyes away. Aw who am I kidding, those guys fainted and quit reading a long time ago. The smaller Gorilla flares fit a little better than the larger Silverback flares. They are super tough and flexible, I tried to follow the Scout fender lines, and I think they look pretty damn good.:grinpimp:

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304317862

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304317905

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304318106

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304318150

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304318191

guidolyons 05-02-2011 01:23 AM

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Few more:
http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304318410

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304319489

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304319525

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304319578

guidolyons 05-02-2011 01:25 AM

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I upgraded the rear tail lights with some 4" LED lights, but the grommet wouldn't fit with out enlarging the hole, so I used a few wraps of electrical tape to snug of the fit and shoved it in the hole to get it shipped over. I didn't like the unfinished look and I didn't want to enlarge the hole to fit the grommet.

A few days ago, I was looking at my old cracked lenses and realized that there was a lip on the lens that was the same size as the LED tail light. After a few measurements, I used a flush trim router bit to cut the center out of the lens and a few drops of super glue around the circumference and now I have stock looking LED tail light.

It took about 5 minutes to do. I need to take some pics with them lit up.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304320134

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304320161

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1304320189

'71 800B 05-02-2011 06:01 AM

That looks :smokin: Looks like those flares would cover what I cut out of mine. Did you have issues with the molded area for the ferd body line?

war pony 05-02-2011 07:54 AM

Hey Guidolyons, That is a nice scout :D . The IH purist you speak of lost their wad when you put in the 7.3 , so don't worry about the haters. Call Trever at WFO and you will be set on the high steer. They have six holes in the event you would up grade. Looks great dude, keep up the good work.

Buck Dodson 05-02-2011 09:44 AM

Great looking flairs. I think I'll be adding something to the wish list...

guidolyons 05-04-2011 02:17 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by '71 800B (Post 12844068)
That looks :smokin: Looks like those flares would cover what I cut out of mine. Did you have issues with the molded area for the ferd body line?

Not really, the fronts fit great, the last ~8" of the rear fender flare has a bump out for the Ford body line, I just used a strip I cut off a mud flap as a spacer/filler strip. The smaller flares that I mocked up first could just be screwed in with out distorting too much, but the larger flares twisted too much, so I added the filler strip and it came out pretty well IMHO.

Leave them out in the sun to get warm and they get pretty flexible, I used a heat gun to form the bottom edge where they overlapped on the rock slider.

budy 06-12-2011 09:00 PM

man that thing is bad ass need some updates

guidolyons 07-10-2011 02:08 AM

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I've made some pretty good progress over the last few months, I was gone to Ft Bragg, NC for most of June for work. The end of May, I got my Dana 60 front installed, finished up the fender flares, and a few other odds and ends. When I got back from Ft Bragg, I pulled the hard top and installed a bikini top, now the Scout is ready for summer! I took the Scout over to the alignment shop friday morning, it was great to drive. :grinpimp:

I finally got an appointment for my recon inspection on July 18th, wish me luck! Once that's done, I'll be legal...
(Disregard the lawn edging added to the fender flares...it's temporary)

Then off to get painted :cool:

Attachment 607783

Attachment 607784

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war pony 07-10-2011 10:10 AM

Looking good guidolyons, but your gona paint over that custom scout paint! come on man, that stuff was an expensive option.:D Good luck with the DMV hope it all passes with flying colors.

guidolyons 07-26-2011 01:37 AM

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After 5 years (and three moves across the country and a 14 month deployment), the Scout is legal :grinpimp:

Attachment 610807

I still have some cosmetic issues and a little odds and ends to sort out *front driveshaft, sway bars, paint but I've been driving it :grinpimp:

July 2006:
Attachment 610809

July 2011:


Attachment 610808

war pony 07-26-2011 06:14 AM

Nice job and congrats man that is sweet.

plug ugly 07-26-2011 09:41 AM

awesome

JERM83 07-26-2011 10:52 AM

:smokin:

guidolyons 08-03-2011 02:40 AM

1772 Attachment(s)
So after driving the Scout all last week, :grinpimp: my Autometer gauges are working great, but the Ford cluster is still not working :mad: It's about 13-14 miles each way to work, and rough guess on MPG is ~17-18mpg, I'd like to break 20MPG. Original F250 gearing was 3.55 w/~29" tire, I have 4.10s and 37's so it's geared pretty low.

I did have some body sway issues, the rear Bronco II springs were really soft. I added 3 additional leaves from a Ford Ranger, and that seemed to help. I also ordered up a set of Currie Anti-Rock Swaybars. I got the rear one installed and it made a significant improvement to reduce body sway/lean/roll.

Attachment 612196

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guidolyons 12-03-2011 04:14 PM

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I am way behind on updates...So I got the Scout painted back in September:

Attachment 637180

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guidolyons 12-03-2011 04:17 PM

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Few more:

Hood stripe and tailgate lettering from Mike Moore @ ScoutCo Products:grinpimp:

Attachment 637185

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Attachment 637187

Attachment 637188


Oh yeah Santa delivered early :grinpimp: New PRP Seats
Attachment 637189

PINITTOWINIT707 12-03-2011 05:00 PM

looks great! now you need a couple nice gashes and dents to set off that nice shade of red. almost to pretty to wheel!

xj9140 12-03-2011 07:25 PM

PIMP status:smokin::smokin:

war pony 12-03-2011 09:22 PM

Looking good , That thing has attitude.

Harvester of Sorrow 12-06-2011 08:13 AM

So nice dude...so nice.

PureSilver 12-06-2011 09:46 AM

That's gorgeous (except the lines on the rear arches, but they're hidden by the flares). Can we see the interior?

AZ Scout Guy 04-28-2012 07:54 PM

Guido, are you ever going to wheel it or just use it as a conversation piece:grinpimp: I dig the stripes on the hood though:eek:

'71 800B 04-29-2012 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ Scout Guy (Post 14306185)
Guido, are you ever going to wheel it or just use it as a conversation piece:grinpimp: I dig the stripes on the hood though:eek:

I was wondering the same thing :D Maybe he is like Csmith, wheel, wash,buff repeat :flipoff2: looks great Guido :grinpimp:

guidolyons 04-29-2012 03:07 PM

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Kinda hard to go 'wheelin' from Afghanistan :flipoff2:

There's only a few places you can legally go off road on Oahu, although they did open an off road park just before I left, and there is another spot run by Department of Land and Natural Resources that you can go with a permit. There's a local Jeep club that sponsors trail rides, when I get back I'm going to try and hook up with them.

Xenomorph 01-23-2013 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 14308044)
Kinda hard to go 'wheelin' from Afghanistan :flipoff2:

There's only a few places you can legally go off road on Oahu, although they did open an off road park just before I left, and there is another spot run by Department of Land and Natural Resources that you can go with a permit. There's a local Jeep club that sponsors trail rides, when I get back I'm going to try and hook up with them.



Bravissimo Guido, be safe and come back in one piece man. Very nice work.

guidolyons 01-25-2013 03:27 PM

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Thanks! :usa:

I got back home a week ago. It's good to be back home. The Scout fired right up after sitting on jackstands for a year.

1966Scout800 01-25-2013 06:18 PM

Thanks for your service :usa:. Must feel good to fire the ol' girl up :beer:. Any plans/mods in mind for the future...?

rgwestra 01-25-2013 07:39 PM

Welcome home!!Thank you.:usa:
X2 on the Plans/projects on the Scout?

JERM83 01-25-2013 09:25 PM

Welcome Home Guido! Thank you for your service. Now get that Scout dirty already. :flipoff2:

plug ugly 01-25-2013 09:33 PM

welcome home. Now go down to the beach and take some pictures of hot chicks in bikinis. Screw the scout.

Buck Dodson 01-25-2013 10:03 PM

Welcome home and thank you

war pony 01-26-2013 11:43 AM

Welcome home Guido, Thanks to you and all that serve.

guidolyons 01-16-2015 12:42 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
OK so I am a little behind on updates.

This is an update from September 2013 ago that I forgot to post:

My master cylinder started leaking out the bore. After a thorough search of local parts stores and even tried Rock Auto, it seem that the '78 Grand Marquis master cylinder I was using was discontinued. I ordered one from Rock Auto but when it arrived, it did not match the picture on line (two large reservoirs, disc/disc) had one large and one small reservoir (disc/drum) After numerous emails to Rock Auto and Dorman tech support I sent it back. Both said, "Oh yes it's the correct part even though it doesn't match the picture on the website" So I paid shipping both ways for the wrong part. I doubt I will ever order from Rock Auto again.

I've been pretty happy with the Grand Marquis MC, it bolted right in the stock location, 1.125" bore. Ports on the passenger side made plumbing easy.

My next choice was master cylinder for a 1970 Corvette 4 wheel disc brakes. Two large reservoirs, 1.125" (power brake) or 1" bore for manual brakes.

I opted for the 1" bore since I don't have a booster. That should give me ~25% more pressure with a slight increase in pedal travel and decrease in pedal effort. The ports are on the driver's side, so I had make 2 new lines to replumb.

I read on line that the rear port goes to the front brakes and the front port goes to the rear. So that's how I re-plumbed. WRONG!

The ports are different sizes, 1/2 up front and 9/16 on the rear port. When I bench bled the MC, I noticed the front reservoir is slightly larger and is the first to activate/move fluid. I had to rebend and reflare to swap lines. Front port goes to the front and rear port goes to the rear.

That green coated brake line from Oreilly is the DEVIL! It took forever to get a good flare. I've flared a bunch of brake lines, and this stuff kicked my ass.

I tried my new Phoenix reverse bleeder with mixed results. It seemed to work OK on the rear calipers, but the front calipers it just leaked out the bleeder threads, so I re-bled them old school with my wife pushing the pedal a some tubing and a jar. I got it all installed and bled and it feels pretty good. I like the new pedal feel, not quite as firm, I may still have an air bubble. After the first pump, the pedal firms up nicely, so I think I still have an air bubble. Hopefully I can bleed again and get a nice firm pedal.

Attachment 1607793

Attachment 1607801

There are a few other differences also, the mounting holes are a bit wider on the Vetter MC (Grand MArquis is~ 3.25" Vette is 3.4") so I had to pop off one of the welded nuts and enlarge the hole a bit. Also I had to lengthen the push rod ~3/16".


There are a few other differences also, the mounting holes are a bit wider on the Vetter MC (Grand MArquis is~ 3.25" Vette is 3.4") so I had to pop off one of the welded nuts and enlarge the hole a bit. Also I had to lengthen the push rod ~3/16".


Attachment 1607809

Attachment 1607817

guidolyons 01-16-2015 12:54 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
OK I'm a bit behind, so here's a few updates:

A few cosmetic updates, added an aluminum diamond tread door insert, I was going to originally do the whole door panel in diamond tread, but decided to stick with a few accent pieces.
Attachment 1607833

One of my tailgate cables broke...so I made some new ones with some parts from the local boat shop. 3/16" stainless steel cable, stainless swivel and a snap link, added some heatshrink to protect the paint.


Attachment 1607841

guidolyons 01-16-2015 01:01 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
So...while I was working on my doors for the insert, I noticed that two of my door hinges were cracked (the barrel where the pin goes through) A while back I drove out the stock pins and replaced with stainless bolts, I'm not sure if that's why they cracked, or if they would have cracked anyway.

I was going to make my own hinges, but after I came home with $100 worth of pins, bushings, and steel, decided I would be time and money ahead to order a set of replacement lift off hinges from Jayson at Canyon Offroad. While the price may seem a bit high...it's cheaper than a stock set, saved me a bunch of time, and these hinges are super nice, big, beefy, and bolted right on.

First I had to get rid of the stock hinges, of course the top set came right out, but the bottom ones are of course stuck fast since the bolts get all the mud, salt, and road grime. After I drilled the heads out, dropped an nut down on the stub gave them a shot of the MIG welder. Spray your favorite penetrating oil on and they will come right out. Works like a champ on these old rusted bolts.

Attachment 1607889

New hinges from Jayson at Canyon Offroad:

Attachment 1607857

Attachment 1607865

The fit on these hinges is soooo nice. I sprayed them with my favorite Rustoleum Hammered black spray paint. The tolerance on the pins is so close that I had to scrape the paint off the pins to get the hinges to fit back together and hang the door properly. :grinpimp:

Here they are installed:

Attachment 1607873

Attachment 1607881

guidolyons 01-16-2015 01:04 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
I retired from the Army and moved back to Texas.

After a month on the boat and transport truck the Scout is back home in Texas.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/a...1&d=1421429905

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/a...1&d=1421429905

Unfortunately, it fired right up to drive off the truck, then promptly died :mad3::mad3: It was very cold and wet that day, and after a month in transit, I figured my 5 year old batteries were not up for the task (even after an overnight charge and a jump pack, still would not fire up...just turn over).

I don't have any of my tools yet, just a small 3/8" drive ratchet set, a Crescent wrench, and a screw driver. So... not too much I can do. I got some new batteries. Which requires removing the front valence & grill shell...not too bad if you only have to do it every 5 years.


http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/a...1&d=1421429905


Still no good. :mad3: I added some diesel, changed out the CPS , charged the batteries again...did some more trouble shooting...got a new scanner (Auto Enginuity very cool) and scoured the dieselstop forum for ideas. Thanks to my wife's detective work, we finally tracked it down to a blown fuse that powers the fuel filter heater and the ECU... vroom! :bounce2::bounce:


Parked next to the wife's new Jeep.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/a...1&d=1421429905

Finally added some bling
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/a...1&d=1421429905

Harvester of Sorrow 01-16-2015 02:33 PM

Welcome home! Glad to see the thing made it through transport ok.

Are you in Corpus Christi?

scout254 01-16-2015 07:24 PM

Notagp👍🍺
Sweet door hinges

JERM83 01-17-2015 06:30 PM

Welcome home Guido.

war pony 01-17-2015 08:05 PM

Glad to see you and the rig made it back from the Islands. Nice work on the hinges.

guidolyons 01-17-2015 09:04 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Thanks Guys :beer:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Harvester of Sorrow (Post 29782969)
Welcome home! Glad to see the thing made it through transport ok.

Are you in Corpus Christi?

Yep back in Corpus Christi. Much better on the return trip, at least the hood stayed closed this time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by scout254 (Post 29787009)
Notagp👍🍺
Sweet door hinges

Told the wife she needs ITS A GP as her tag:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by war pony (Post 29800409)
Glad to see you and the rig made it back from the Islands. Nice work on the hinges.

The hinges are from Jayson at Canyon Offroad Scout 80/800 Quick Release Hinges

montanatrout 01-21-2015 08:40 AM

SHit!!!!!

between you and the woods runner scout build in gen 4x4, i have to build another scout. i love yours it looks great. although i would have left it old rusty white (just like my first one) it look bitchin as is. good job and thanks you for your service!

MotoDave 01-21-2015 11:27 AM

The Scout looks great, now lets see some action shots :)

I like how you did the sway bar, I may be stealing that idea :)

guidolyons 01-21-2015 12:24 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
MontanaTrout- You've got some pretty good builds, too love the FODGE.

MotoDave- I've got the Currie Anti-Rock swaybars front and rear. I was going to try find some kind of junkyard swap... but the Anti-rock sway bars saved me so much time and effort. Perfect width for the Scout frame. I did cut/bend/weld the arms about 15* so the end of the arms would clear the frame. Not sure why I didn't post any pics of the front swaybar. Here's the only pic I have right now that shows top part of the sway bar.

Attachment 1615433

I needed them bad, I had some wicked scary body sway.

MotoDave 01-21-2015 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 29866177)
MontanaTrout- You've got some pretty good builds, too love the FODGE.

MotoDave- I've got the Currie Anti-Rock swaybars front and rear. I was going to try find some kind of junkyard swap... but the Anti-rock sway bars saved me so much time and effort. Perfect width for the Scout frame. I did cut/bend/weld the arms about 15* so the end of the arms would clear the frame. Not sure why I didn't post any pics of the front swaybar. Here's the only pic I have right now that shows top part of the sway bar.

I needed them bad, I had some wicked scary body sway.

Thanks for the info. I'll be curious how mine drives with the 3 link front. It will be daily driven, so I want good street manners as well as capable off road.

brokenparts 04-23-2015 10:27 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Great build!

EricsGreen98Tj 04-26-2015 05:08 PM

Just read the whole thread. Can't think of a better way to waste a few hours.

Did you every hook up the saddle tanks?

Did the OEM Ford cluster work?

Nice job and thanks for your service to our country.

guidolyons 04-26-2015 06:27 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by brokenparts (Post 31349226)
Great build!

Thanks

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj (Post 31391034)
Just read the whole thread. Can't think of a better way to waste a few hours.

Did you every hook up the saddle tanks?

Did the OEM Ford cluster work?

Nice job and thanks for your service to our country.

I still have the saddle tanks, but have not hooked either of them up, yet. I do plan on using one of them plumbed into the stock Ford fuel transfer switch.

I pulled the whole wiring harness from the Ford and used the Ford cluster, 1. because it was faster/easier, 2. I wasn't sure how much/what the PSD needed to run. All the gauges work, except the speedometer does not work properly, it shows less than 5 MPH and the odometer clicks a tenth per mile since my sending unit is in the transfercase not the rear axle. I use a GPS, so it hasn't been a big deal.

I have since discovered that it runs just fine without the Ford cluster and I have a set of Autometer gauges (including a programmable speedo) that I am going to swap in.

guidolyons 04-27-2015 01:03 PM

1777 Attachment(s)
Update time. Made some new driveshafts, chopped up the front crossmember, and went 'wheeling :grinpimp:

I've had all the bits and pieces to make my front driveshaft, but had been putting if off for awhile. I thought I was going to need a two piece front driveshaft, but after mocking up the pillow block and front driveshaft, the angles were too steep, and I found I actually had room for a one piece driveshaft. Since I didn't need a two piece front driveshaft, I had enough 1350 parts left over to make a new rear driveshaft, too. :grinpimp:

It turns out my stock Scout 80 rear driveshaft was almost perfect length for my new front shaft. It barely bolted in at ride height and actually needed about 5 more inches. It doesn't have enough slip for full droop (I have apiece of cable as a limit strap), but it works for now until I can figure a long travel slip.

DIY driveshaft building 101. Measure at full droop, ride height, and full stuff/compression. It's much easier to shorten an existing 'shaft, than to lengthen, but you can DIY a longer shaft, too.

Make sure you have enough slip for full travel, if not, err on the side of caution at full stuff and limit extension if you need to. I'd rather have a shaft be too short than too long. A shaft that is too long can the break transmission/transfercase, too short no harm done.

Using a thin cut off wheel, cut through the weld just enough the separate the yoke from the driveshaft. I like to rotate it as I cut (roll it along the edge of a table, etc) it seems to get a smoother, more even cut. Once the groove is deep enough, give it a few whacks with a dead blow hammer (or a hammer with a block of wood) if it doesn't separate, make a relief cut perpendicular to the shaft and it should pop loose.

Attachment 1936522

I got a little carried away and cut a bit too deep, but no worries.

Here's the yoke. It's got a nice shoulder on it that fits tight in the tube.

Attachment 1936546

Double check your measurements and cut the driveshaft to length (account for the length of the yoke) Make the cut as square as you can, as it will make it easier to line everything up. A stainless steel hose clamp makes a good guide if you don't have a bandsaw/chopsaw/sawzall that cuts square. Clean it up with a flapwheel. Tap the yoke in the end of the shaft.

Use a sturdy straight edge (large angle or some square tube works well) to make sure the yokes are "in phase" otherwise you will get some wicked vibrations. This also helps get the driveshaft fairly straight. Rear shaft is~ 19" and front is ~42".

Attachment 1936530
Using the Mark I hairy eyeball and a few taps of the deadblow hammer gets the shaft pretty straight. A few light tack welds 90* apart.

Install in the truck and give it a spin to make sure it spins true. A dial indicator will really help true it up. Look for the most out of round spot, then whack it with a hammer until it's as straight as you can get it. Then pull it out an final weld. I'll lay a few heavy tacks (90* apart) then weld about an inch at a time on opposite sides so the weld doesn't pull the yoke out of alignment.
Attachment 1936554

For the front shaft, I didn't have a piece of tube long enough, so I just cut and sleeved using a short piece of extra tube, relief cut and inserted into the ID to help align. It's not the best way, but worked fine for a front shaft. I got the front shaft down to .030" run out, the rear even better at .010"
Attachment 1936538

guidolyons 04-27-2015 01:04 PM

1777 Attachment(s)
My rear driveshaft is now 1350 u-joints on both ends (the previous one, now a trail spare, is 1330 on the slip (1330-1350 conversion joint) and 1350 at the axle) Now all driveshaft u-joints are 1350, except the front D60.

Attachment 1936610

I need to address a slight oil pan clearance issue to go to 1350 at that end, too. 1310 yoke barely fits at full stuff, just a wee bit of friendly contact with the oil pan.

Attachment 1936618

I had to chop the crossmember to allow for the one piece driveshaft so I got creative with some 2x .188 strap. Clears at full droop with 3/4" clearance.

It's got some funky angles to account for the bend in the original Ford crossmember.

Attachment 1936626

Drooped out

Attachment 1936634

Attachment 1936642

guidolyons 04-27-2015 07:32 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Drove the Scout 5 hours to Hidden Falls Offroad Park in Marble Falls, TX for the Hill Country Binder Bash. I had a great time and got to finally meet my imaginary internet friends.


Attachment 1743394

Attachment 1743402

Attachment 1743410

Edit: Added 2 more sweet action shots:
Attachment 1745522

Attachment 1745530

Harvester of Sorrow 04-28-2015 08:23 AM

Fuck yeah man...great feeling I am sure.

MochaMike 04-28-2015 09:47 AM

That DS/oil pan issue will self clearance.... (just carry some JB weld).

My front DS CV rubs on the frame rail all the time.... Just spray it with some paint after each run & it's fine.

MotoDave 04-28-2015 10:06 AM

That looks like a blast, can't wait to get out and use mine.

Nice write-up on the drive shaft tech too.

D-RAT 04-28-2015 02:21 PM

What a cool build thread. Like your truck.

I know you solved the squirreliness with a sway bar out back. Seems to me moving the leaf springs outboard a few inches would also be effective at stabilizing the truck. My nitpicky 2 cents worth. I'm amazed you got that big diesel in a little 800. Definitely one of the coolest 800s I've ever seen.

guidolyons 04-28-2015 04:04 PM

1772 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Harvester of Sorrow (Post 31412618)
Fuck yeah man...great feeling I am sure.

You bet :grinpimp: Yeah it was great to get out an 'wheel instead of being a jackstand hero & mall crawler.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MochaMike (Post 31414146)
That DS/oil pan issue will self clearance.... (just carry some JB weld).

I knew the clearance was going to be super close. I had some JB weld...just in case. I'm gonna give it a couple of good whacks with a BFH, now that I know exactly where to hit it :D I'll need to notch the oil pan to clear a 1350 yoke, but that should hold for now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MotoDave (Post 31414458)
That looks like a blast, can't wait to get out and use mine.

Nice write-up on the drive shaft tech too.

Thanks, I stole the idea from OldBlueCJ7's write up (his pics are gone though) https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...ing-101-a.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by D-RAT (Post 31418706)
What a cool build thread. Like your truck.

I know you solved the squirreliness with a sway bar out back. Seems to me moving the leaf springs outboard a few inches would also be effective at stabilizing the truck. My nitpicky 2 cents worth. I'm amazed you got that big diesel in a little 800. Definitely one of the coolest 800s I've ever seen.

Thanks. You are probably right-if I outboarded the springs it would be more stable...but IMHO not worth the work to do it. If I was going to spend more time on the suspension, it would be to do a 3 or 4 link.

With long flat leaf springs it flexes really well. We went through a canyon called Bronco Buster that has some pretty good axle twisters and the Scout just crawled right through.

The Scout did awesome, I ran 65-70MPH going there and back, got ~16-17 MPG, I even got up to 80MPH once passing a truck...a Scout 80 on 37s does not need to go 80!:eek:

jemarshall 09-24-2015 11:53 AM

Looking into sway bars for the kids and was wondering which ones you used and what you think of them and if you would have gone with either a stiffer or softer bar.

The front of hers with the 53" springs is getting pretty hairy. I am going to try to get the ones under the rear Friday so I can take it out for a decent little shake down this weekend, and I am expecting that to make the body roll allot worse.

guidolyons 09-24-2015 03:02 PM

I got the Currie Anti-Rock sway bars, 36" width, with the steel 18" arms CE 9901-18. Sway Bar diameter is .75" 36" is the perfect width for the Scout frame. Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts
Ouch! Price has gone up! I paid ~$350/ea

I started off on the center hole/middle adjustment in the arm, and worked well with no top, but once I added the top back on put some weight in the back, I had to move down to the stiffest setting, which is still a bit soft but seems to be working well. I might drill another hole to shorten it a bit more.

I think you can order a .800" diam bar, too.

I'm very happy with them, I was going to try to junkyard scrounge something together, but they saved me a ton of fab work, it was very easy to install, lots of adjustability. Work good offroad, too.

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:05 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Found some old pics from when I was getting the Scout ready to ship back from Hawaii. I knew my hard top was in rough shape, but it had been hanging in my garage for 4 years...it wasn't really a priority when it's 78* year round :D

So I dropped it down and started peeling off latex caulking, fiberglass window screen and Bondo and uncovered a lot more rust :mad3: If I had access to another hard top I would have pulled the glass and scrapped it, but I didn't and I needed the hard top at least semi-servicable.

Attachment 1929178

Attachment 1929186

Attachment 1929194

Window Screen and Bondo
Attachment 1929210

Aluminum flashing screwed into the top:
Attachment 1929202

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:09 PM

4 Attachment(s)
So I used my hitch mounted homemade sheetmetal brake to bend up a new drip rail for above the back lift gate.

http://www.justih.org/photopost/data...25_163530a.jpg

The original drip rail had a seam in the bottom that allowed water to collect and just rusted away the entire bit, so I cutout the rust and made an extra long piece so the water couldn't get in, I also added another piece of angle along the top of the lift gate on the inside to reinforce.

Attachment 1929218

Attachment 1929226

Attachment 1929234



I used some 3M VHB tape to bond the aluminum angle, super strong stuff!
Attachment 1929242

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:12 PM

3 Attachment(s)
The front windshield flange was pretty rough in the corners, it was completely rusted through on the driver's side. I used some 16 ga to make a whole new flange. Should be stronger than the original, it's a bit thicker.

Attachment 1929250

Attachment 1929258

Attachment 1929266

Then I used fiberglass cloth mat and fiberglassed the perimeter of the hardtop around the drip rails and about 3 inches up the top to seal up any pin holes, etc. Lost the pics of that when I broke my phone.

Should last me a few more years now, once I get some Hushmat and paint on it.

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:16 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I don't know if y'all noticed, but it is HOT in south Texas. I haven't even really driven the Scout that much because the Ford Heat/AC unit I had chopped up never really worked that well, it took up all of the passenger fender well and most of the dash. The fan was on the inner fender and by the time it got in the cab, it was a light puff of air. It sort of defrosted, and the floor heat worked but who needs floor heat? The floor was plenty hot already. :hot:

AC was not a priority in Hawaii as I had a bikini top and the weather was 78* all the time. :flipoff2:

I started looking around at aftermarket AC units that were small enough to fit under the dash, and would be more efficient than the hacked up Ford AC unit.

CommancheScott used an Old Air Product Hurricane unit in his 800, so after a little more research, I called them and ordered one up. They had never sold one for a Scout with a 7.3 PSD, but after answering a bunch of questions, I was confident I could make it work. Since I already had the compressor, condenser and receiver dryer, all I needed was the inside unit which is about half the cost of a complete kit, plus they are located in DFW TX, so I got it in about 2 days. :grinpimp:

After mocking it up I did need to order some extra fittings to mate up with the Ford receiver dryer and a new piece of tubing to reroute to the condenser.

Time to pull the dash an get to work:

Attachment 1929274

I originally build the dash to fit around the Ford AC and instrument cluster.

Attachment 1929282

Attachment 1929290

Attachment 1929298

Old versus new
Ford unit up top, Hurricane unit down below.

Attachment 1929306

jemarshall 09-24-2015 05:19 PM

Thanks for the info. :smokin:

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:32 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I never really liked using the Ford instrument cluster, but I wasn't sure if the ECU needed the stock instrument cluster to work and it made getting the Scout operational much easier. Later on, I found out that it runs just find with out it. I figured while I had the dash apart for the AC unit, I might as well finish that up with some new gauges as well. I'd had them for awhile, just never motivated enough to tear the dash out to fix it.

Attachment 1929314

I also didn't like that I had to bump up the driver's side dash to fit the Ford instrument cluster, so I chopped that part off, too.

Attachment 1929322

Inspired by JEMARSHALL's 800 style instrument cluster I set out to mount up my programmable Speedometer (the Ford one never worked right since I moved the sender from the rear axle to the transfer case, it was off by at least a factor of 10, 60MPH indicated 6MPH and 1 mile was .1 mile on the odometer. I used a GPS to keep me straight), tachometer, volt meter, and fuel gauge. I already had oil pressure, engine temp, boost, and EGT in the center of the dash.

Attachment 1929354

This also gave me room for two AC vents on the driver's side :D

Tried a few different designs and layouts to fit around the steering column and where the gauges would fit that I could see. My tach is smaller than my speedo, but it still looks pretty well balanced.

Attachment 1929362

Attachment 1929370

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:37 PM

5 Attachment(s)
After about a dozen different layout ideas, I chose this one for the final layout:

Attachment 1929378

Cut out the gauge holes with an adjustable fly cutter. Easy to adjust so the gauges fit snug, and cuts cleaner than a regular hole saw.

Attachment 1929386

Attachment 1929394

Attachment 1929402

The lights are from LEDs from Dorman. Across the top: LH Turn signal (green), High Beam (blue), RH Turn signal (green). Check engine (amber) lower right, and the Alternator/charge indicator (red) on lower left. I had to replace the charge indicator with an incandescent bulb, the LED stayed lit all the time, even when it was supposed to be off because it takes so little current.
I also had to change the Check Engine Light, the LED stayed on even when it was off, swapped it for a low profile Hella amber indicator light.
Pre-wired to make it easier to mate up with the stock wiring harness. Connectors are 6 pin trailer light connectors.

Attachment 1929410

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:40 PM

This is the AC unit I used Old Air Products Hurricane 1000 with cable controls: Custom Aftermarket A/C Systems & Replacement Parts for Hot Rod, Classic, & Vintage Cars/Trucks - Universal HURRICANE Systems - Cable Operated
~$1070 for the full kit, $505 for just the inside kit. I also had to order some extra fittings and a piece of tube to adapt to the Ford receiver dryer and the condenser.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1442113216

jemarshall 09-24-2015 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 33540906)
The lights are from LEDs from Dorman. Across the top: LH Turn signal (green), High Beam (blue), RH Turn signal (green). Check engine (amber) lower right, and the Alternator/charge indicator (red) on lower left. I had to replace the charge indicator with an incandescent bulb, the LED stayed lit all the time, even when it was supposed to be off because it takes so little current.

I would suggest resistors on the lights to dim them a little, they are fin bright :eek:

Scout Dude 09-24-2015 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 33540962)
This is the AC unit I used Old Air Products Hurricane 1000 with cable controls
~$1070 for the full kit, $505 for just the inside kit.

Finally, some tech that I find interesting. Can you tell that I am getting old?:flipoff2:

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:44 PM

4 Attachment(s)
A little final test fit before I mount the gauges.

Attachment 1929450

I have attend to some rust issues before I continue with the dash and AC install :mad3:

Rust never sleeps! Back in ~2009 when I had the Scout torn down for the diesel swap, I fixed the rust around the hinge boxes, at the time there was a small spot of rust on the inner driver's side behind the dash above the floor vent, and the passenger side seemed solid. So I left it alone. :(

I'm not sure who was in charge of this little bit of design work at IH, but the area above the fresh air vent behind the door hinge box is horrible, it traps dirt and water and is a breeding ground for the evil tinworm.

Driver's side
Attachment 1929458

Attachment 1929466

Passenger side is a little better, but not by much:
Attachment 1929474

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:48 PM

5 Attachment(s)
So I got some high zinc weld trough primer and some seam sealer and went to work on the rust:

I drilled a drain hole hidden behind the inner panel above the vent. Hopefully that will let water drain out between the inner panel and the inner fender, so maybe that will help keep the rust at bay.

Used some handy blue tape to make a template and welded them in. Somehow I deleted the inprogress pics :confused: Oh well, looks much mo better now. After I welded up, I drilled a small hole up top and sprayed bed liner inbetween the panels. I also seam sealed the patch panel as well as the seam above the windshield channel that should help keep water out.

Attachment 1929514

Attachment 1929522

Attachment 1929530

Attachment 1929538

Big ol' can o' FAIL, I had a little problem with the valve on the Duplicolor bed liner spray :mad4: It worked for a while, then started spewing out of the top of the can rather than the nozzle. :mad3: I was able to get enough out of the can to spray the upper part of the firewall and the patched areas above the fresh air vents.

Attachment 1929546

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:52 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Got the rust sorted, added a layer of Hushmat to the upper firewall

Attachment 1929554

Installed the AC unit and ran the duct hoses:

Attachment 1929562

Finished plumbing the AC lines, new receiver dryer, and heater valve:

Attachment 1929570

Added a piece of Lexan behind the AC controls for some backlighting (amber lights were for testing, I have two green bulbs)

Attachment 1929578

Gauges and AC controls lit up:


Attachment 1929586

guidolyons 09-24-2015 05:54 PM

4 Attachment(s)
New voltmeter, Speedo, Tach, and fuel at night:

Attachment 1929594

Dash going back together:

Attachment 1929602

Attachment 1929610

Attachment 1929618

The push-pull cables for the heat and defrost are to the left of the middle dash vent. The fan and AC controls are down below in the three holes where the Ford controls had been. Added anther 12v outlet in the third spot.

The Ford turn signal/multi-function switch is clunky, I am thinking about rewiring using the Chevy column, but I have to figure out windshield washer fluid and high beam switches. I may upgrade my column to a newer GM with the multifunction switch, but it will work for now.

Off to the AC shop in the morning for vacuum and recharge.

guidolyons 09-24-2015 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jemarshall (Post 33540970)
I would suggest resistors on the lights to dim them a little, they are fin bright :eek:

Yeah I noticed that, the turn signals are fine, but the blue high beam is BRIGHT at night. I tried 500 and 1000 ohm resistor and it didn't help much :confused: Probably just stick a piece of blue tape on it for now. *edit* Fixed it. Stopped by the local window tint shop and snagged a scrap piece of limo tint. Cut out a disc and glued it in the high beam LED. Perfect. Not sure why the blue LED is so much brighter than the green ones?

The amp light and check engine light I had to use a Hella incandescent warning light.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scout Dude (Post 33541026)
Finally, some tech that I find interesting. Can you tell that I am getting old?:flipoff2:

Ha! I almost didn't post up the AC stuff because I figured it was too boring :D

I'm impressed with the kit, nicely done and pretty easy to install. I had previously done an AC kit on my wife's Geo Tracker when we first got married.

war pony 09-28-2015 06:10 AM

That's a real up town rig. You going to be able to get it dirty? It's looking very nice Guido

guidolyons 09-29-2015 07:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Yep. Going 'wheelin' in a few weeks. :flipoff2:

Had a little issue with my, ahem, "creatively engineered" AC coupling. It leaked so I couldn't get the system charged. I went looking for somewhere I could get a custom fitting made and found a different AC shop that specializes in custom automotive AC work. He said he could make the fitting I need, but wanted to take a look at it. I brought the Scout by the AC shop yesterday and he said I need a different receiver drier (the stock Ford OEM style is and orifice tube style not compatible with the Old Air Product expansion valve style). He saved me some potential problems! He also said my condenser in rough shape and recommended I change that as well while I have the system open. So once I get those swapped out he'll make the new line I need with the correct ends on it. :beer:

For the first time since I've owned the Scout it has an accurate working speedometer.

Uptown:
Attachment 1936658

LibertySand 09-29-2015 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by guidolyons (Post 33604218)
......
For the first time since I've owned the Scout it has an accurate working speedometer.

Uptown:
Attachment 1936658

Either the focus was off on the camera or those were some good vibrations that you caught in action...

guidolyons 09-30-2015 10:42 AM

^^^Not sure if Marky Mark is a compliment or an insult? :flipoff2:

Ha. Just my poor photography skills. Trying to drive and not drop the potato...I mean phone.

war pony 09-30-2015 06:29 PM

I'm thinking it was from the glow Sticks.:D

guidolyons 09-30-2015 06:57 PM

If the Scout is a-rockin' Don't come a-knockin' :grinpimp:

guidolyons 10-13-2015 01:11 PM

5 Attachment(s)
So, Steve (my AC guy) recommended that I replace my condenser since I had the system all blown apart, since mine (used from the wrecked donor truck) was a little banged up and one of the lines was bend/crimped from the wreck and could restrict the flow. He made new AC lines from the compressor with the proper fittings, so now everything in the AC is brand new except the compressor.

So while I had the grille off to swap in the new condenser, I took care of a few things I'd been procrastinating on.

Attachment 1956186

While I had the nose off, I repainted the grille (it was not supposed to get painted red) and added some LED turn signals I bought a few years ago behind the grille.

Attachment 1956194

Tucked in behind the grille for stealth.


Attachment 1956202

Got the new receiver drier mounted and plumbed, which actually works out better since I was able to mount it down low out of the way. I still need to police up a few wires and get them loomed and tied out of the way.

Attachment 1956210

I have room for washer reservoir now. I did not have room for the washer reservoir before and I am thinking about moving my MasterFlow 1050 air compressor over to the passenger side fender now that I have more room.

Attachment 1956226

I got the AC system charged up and took the Scout on a little road trip this weekend and having the AC was nice. I was pretty happy with the Old Air unit. I do need to address the heat coming through the transmission tunnel though,after about an hour of driving, it gets too hot to touch, which puts a lot of heat into the cab. The other good news is that running the AC/ added heat from the condenser did not significantly increase the engine temps, I never ran over 200* during my test run.

guidolyons 11-09-2015 04:26 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Getting ready for the North Texas Binder Round Up, I noticed that the nutcerts I used for my crossmember had pulled out. The trucking company used the second crossmember to chain down the Scout and that section of the frame is thicker because I reinforced it after I notched it to clear the transfercase. Looking at the nutcert, I don't think it mushroomed properly because of the 1/4" thick frame rail. I also fixed the cracked weld.

So I used my other method to get threads into a blind frame hole. Tee nuts from the hardware store. Snip off the prongs (there are also a flat version with no prongs) insert into the hole and weld the edges. Works really well and you get more thread engagement than welding on a nut or just tapping threads.

Attachment 1997641

Attachment 1997649

Attachment 1997657

My rear springs were thrashed (Bronco II). They had always been really soft, I added two leaves from a Ford Ranger and that helped, but lately they have been really mushy and almost have a negative arch with nothing in the back. So I hit up the local Pull-a-Part and snagged some heavier rated springs from an F150.

The Bronco II springs are rated at ~960 lbs, the F150 springs are 1,700 lbs (I think, still researching the spring codes 3 leaves/overload). I was looking for the 1,900lb rated 4/1 springs, but I got lucky and found these that were really easy to snag. They have the same offset 25"/32" as the Bronco II/Ranger Springs. Good resource for researching leaf springs for all kinds of makes and models: F150 Leaf Springs, Ford F150 Leaf Spring Replacement

Attachment 1997665

Attachment 1997673

guidolyons 11-09-2015 04:31 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Got the "new to me" springs installed, improved ride and raised the rear 2.5" about an inch higher than it used to be when I originally did the spring over. I also swapped over the red polyurethane bushings that I had installed a few months ago.

New springs are thicker with 3 leaves and an overload. I'll keep the old springs in case I need to throw an extra leaf into the new pack. I took it for a test drive and the the new ride is stiffer, less marshmallow.

You can see the difference in the arch:

Attachment 1997681

Attachment 1997689

The old springs had wear marks from rubbing on the exhaust.

When they downloaded the Scout off the truck, it had been chained down so tight the rear springs were inverted. They seem to come back up to ride height, but they were shot.

Here's the clearance when I originally installed the Bronco II springs

Attachment 2003545

Now:
F150 springs
Attachment 2003553

Boomtacoma01 11-18-2015 09:12 AM

Great progression on the build. I need to hit up the scout section more often.

guidolyons 11-18-2015 01:55 PM

Thanks :beer:

bk2life 05-08-2016 12:20 PM

any new updates or pictures?

guidolyons 05-12-2016 09:48 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Nothing too sexy. Swapped in a GM tilt column. I'd been looking for awhile to find a early '90s non-airbag manual shift column, most in the yard are airbag auto columns. I was at the local pull-a-part with a buddy and stumbled across an 1991 S-10 with the column I was looking for. I realized how ghetto the Ford multi-function turn signal switch looked strapped on with a hose clamp. I've had a new Borgeson upper u-joint in the box for awhile to swap out the stock GM upper bell joint, and finally got motivated enough to swap it in when I pulled the column. The S10 column was about 2 inches shorter, but with the new u-joint and longer chunk of DD shaft, it was a pretty easy swap and cleaned up the turn signals, highbeam, and washer pump wiring. I doubt I'll get the cruise control hooked up though :laughing:

Attachment 2255993

Attachment 2256001

Swapped in a new lock cylinder and Grant steering wheel.

Attachment 2256009

war pony 05-12-2016 08:17 PM

Looks good Guido.

desertscouts 05-16-2016 08:44 PM

Great build.....

guidolyons 05-25-2016 02:55 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Did a little faux wheelin' :flipoff2:

Attachment 2271841

Attachment 2271849

Attachment 2271857

Attachment 2271865

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:15 PM

5 Attachment(s)
I guess I haven't updated in awhile. :emb2: A few updates from the last year or so.

So last April up one of the guys says, "I've got a top that's in better shape than yours. You can have it." I was hoping to just bolt in on and

We decided this was a bad idea:
Attachment 2620274
:laughing:

Went back a few weeks later with my old top removed and picked up the "new to me top" Thanks Lee. :grinpimp:
Attachment 2620282

Attachment 2620290

It might look a wee bit rough, but it's just surface rust, and in MUCH better shape than my old top.

It's for an earlier model, with the external 5 bolt mounting, but fit with a few modifications. I had to drill 7 new holes to match my windshield frame, and trim the top bit of drip edge off the windshield frame.

Attachment 2620298

I had to trim this bit off here:
go, but it was for an earlier 5 bolt top and mine is 7 bolt.

Attachment 2620306

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:17 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Some more wheeling pics
http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490802030

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490802030

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490802030

I found a piece of that perforated 1.25" square steel tube at Lowe's that had the correct hole spacing (1" on center) and width to match the windshield frame to use as a drill guide. After some careful measuring from the windshield (8" on center, from center, 8", 16", 24") frame to the top, I drilled 7 holes. Matched up perfect.

Attachment 2620314

Attachment 2620322

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:19 PM

So on my way to pick up my top, I had a little problem with my right front tire.:mad3: Still held air, but 1/2 the tread was missing. Figured I picked up a nail or damaged it four wheeling, this was my first on highway flat tire in ~25 years, so I figured it was an anomaly. Threw on my spare and kept on trucking.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490802329

3 months later...same thing happens to another tire :mad3: 2 tires (0909 build date) with plenty of tread, in a 3 month period.
http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490802329

Fore sell sum big o tars. 50% tread left. :laughing:

OK not an anomaly, time for some new shoes. Got a sweet deal on some 37x12.5-17 Toyo Open Country RT at the local Discount Tire. They had ordered them for another customer that wasn't sure if he wanted the MT or RT. A bit milder tread, but still pretty aggressive. I really, really liked my BFG KM2s...right up until the tread pealed off at 65 MPH :mad3: Yep. ripped off the left rear fender flare massaged the wheel well a bit.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490802329

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490802329

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:21 PM

and...then I had to re-do my left rear shock mount. I'm thinking it's a combination of metal fatigue and tire tread separation slapping it at 65MPH. I did the other side, too as a preventive measure.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490804450

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490804450

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490804450

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490804450

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:23 PM

I've been debating the best/easiest way to re-use one of the stock Scout side saddle tanks as a reserve tank. When I originally did the swap, I grabbed the transfer valve/switch and extra fuel lines so I would be able to eventually add an extra tank. My first attempt version just used a T into the return line and the Scout manual three way valve. That had some issues, that I had no gauge on the side tank(s), I'd have to keep track of transferring fuel, and it looked hack-tackular.:laughing:

I had an issue with my main tank not drawing correctly (or maybe it was an inaccurate sender/gauge problem). I ran out of fuel with 1/4 tank remaining...twice :mad3: After I filled back up, I calculated that I still had ~5 gallons in the tank. I started carrying an extra 5 gallon can of diesel with me until I could get it sorted.

Turns out the Ford strainer falls off/disintegrates and my gauge was right. So while I was dropping the tank and fixing that, I decided I would finally tackle plumbing in a reserve tank.

This is what I found:
http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490807868

This is what it's supposed to look like:

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490807868

One of the issues I needed to solve was a supply and return line, and add a vent to the the tank/filler neck. All complicated by the side mount sending unit and no room on top for a traditional sending unit with supply and return lines. Oh, and the Ford sending unit/gauge is E15-160F ohms.


After head scratching for a bit trying to shove a large sending unit with supply and return lines through a tiny hole and not leak:

I found a Ford Mustang sending unit that would fit in the stock Scout sending unit hole (with a few minor mods, and fabbed mounting ring) welded on a longer arm on the float to match the sweep of the Scout sender.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490807868

The drain plug is 1/2-20 bolt with washer. Very close to 1/4" NPT thread. So I tapped the bottom fitting for 1/4" NPT, added an elbow and plumbed in the supply line to the bottom of the tank (not optimal due to sediment/trash/water, but I do have a see through filter there before it goes into the transfer valve) and plumbed the return line to the stock draw tube.

For the vent tube, I used a small hole and tapered punch on an air hammer to make a hole for the vent tube. By using the punch I have a bit more thread engagement with the 1/4" NPT threads. Tapped with 1/4NPT threads, threaded in the nipple and added some JB Steelstick to finish it off.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490807868

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490807868
So, now I have a reserve tank, switches over with the dash switch, and accurately reads the fuel level, too.

Probably one of the best mods I've done, I don't know why it took me so long to do it. Sure beats a 5 gallon can.

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:27 PM

Pics from October 2016 North Texas Binders trip to Hidden Falls:

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490844282

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490844105


http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490844282


http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490844105

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1490844105



The new tires did pretty well, maybe not quite as well as the KM2s, but they run quiet and kept the tread on...:laughing:

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:29 PM

In May 2017, I went to Marble Falls for Wheelers for the Wounded. They bussed in wounded Veterans (and their families) from Ft Hood & San Antonio. There were ~180 volunteer vehicles almost all Jeeps, I was the only Scout.
http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496762715

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496762715

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496762715

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496762715


Good time.

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:31 PM

After a year of tripping over the hard top in the garage, I finally got to work on it to get it ready for paint.

Back to work on the hard top:

Pressure washed the old gunk and dirt off the top and prepped for paint.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496766665

The interior paint was in surprisingly pretty good shape under the old spray on coating, the cab area had a bit more surface rust, but still in great shape.

Just one bit of rust on the rear quarter window (the top was stored on it's side and the side was near/on the ground)

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496766665

I used a mini-spot sand blaster to clean up the rust before filling with JB Weld Steel stick epoxy.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496766665

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496766665

A bit of surface rust, but nothing serious, scuffed it up before coating with Duplicolor Rust Barrier.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496766665

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:32 PM

I drilled out the old 5 bolt flange bolt holes to make them even and welded a washer in to fill the hole.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496768159

Oops I deleted pics of the washers welded in and ground flush, so use your imagination. :flipoff2:


Used 3M 5200 as seam sealer on the rain gutter. A piece of clean fuel hose works like a champ to smooth the bead.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496768159

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496768159

I used several methods to apply the Duplicolor Rust Barrier. The first coat of Duplicolor Rust Barrier I applied using a small trim roller which came out pretty well, but not the best.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496768159

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496768159

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:33 PM

Then I used an undercoating gun to shoot the interior. That came out pretty well, but I didn't like that much large texture for the exterior. (Not an airplane. It's a Texas sized Skeeter)
http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496771050


http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496771050

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496771050

The Duplicolor Rust Barrier is pretty thick, so I wasn't sure if I could spray it through a regular paint gun. I followed the instructions and thinned it 10% (maximum recommended) and it sprayed very well, just a bit of texture. I probably could have thinned it a bit or messed around with the gun settings more and gotten it a little bit smoother, but I figured the texture will hide some of the blemishes. I used a Harbor Freight HVLP gun with the remote reservoir. https://www.harborfreight.com/64-oz-...kit-62895.html

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496771050

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496771050

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:33 PM

Then I did a quick wet sand with a scotchbrite pad to knock down the texture a bit. Then loaded up and took it to a friend's house for the color and clear coat.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496772098

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496772098


http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496772098

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496772098

It looks a bit thin in a few spots, because we ran out of paint. It was Memorial Day Weekend so, I had to wait a few days to get more paint the following week.

guidolyons 06-07-2017 01:34 PM

Finished up with 3 more coats of white base and then shot the clear. Not going to win the Concours d'Elégance anytime soon, but looks pretty good IMHO. Next up: Glass install.

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496772519

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496772629

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496773299

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496773299

http://www.justih.org/Binder-Bench/a...1&d=1496773299

1OLD4X4 06-08-2017 01:20 AM

That looks bloody good to me. I wouldn't be too concerned about a couple of rough spots. If it looks too pretty you never want to risk scratching it. It's a Scout, made to use and abuse I say. Awesome job, well done.

RockRogue 06-12-2017 12:21 PM

Great looking practical build.

guidolyons 06-12-2017 03:07 PM

Thanks. :beer:

jkborg 07-03-2017 12:54 PM

photos
 
thank you for the great detailed write up with all the photos!!:homer:

guidolyons 10-23-2017 01:51 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Posing on the curb at the mall:

Attachment 2728465

Attachment 2728473

Attachment 2728481

Attachment 2728489

Attachment 2728497

plug ugly 10-23-2017 10:04 PM

looks good

levi1a 11-06-2017 06:09 PM

Went through the thread, but didn't it mentioned. Who did your beadlocks on the H2's? How are they on the road?

levi1a 11-06-2017 06:09 PM

Went through the thread, but didn't see it mentioned. Who did your beadlocks on the H2's? How are they on the road?

guidolyons 11-07-2017 04:22 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 2739154


They are/were Ballistic Fab weld on beadlocks on H2 rims that I bought off a guy here on PBB about 10 years ago. I ran them as beadlocks as my daily driver for about 5 years, sealed with RTV and balanced with airsoft BBs. Airsoft BBs worked like a champ.

Inner ring started to cone and I got bad leaks along the welds (not between the tire and rim, but between the inner ring and the rim) so they wouldn't hold air. I tried a few ideas to seal them, none worked, so I took off the outer ring and been running them as regular rims until I can afford something else. Probably not worth the time/money/effort to try and repair them since I'd need access to or pay for someone with a big lathe and a big TIG welder/MIG with spool gun.

guidolyons 02-09-2018 08:04 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Got the back glass tinted and back in with new seals from Clester's Auto.

Attachment 2808042

Attachment 2808050

Attachment 2808058

guidolyons 04-23-2019 09:20 PM

5 Attachment(s)
Got some new shoes. size 4DDDD :grinpimp:

Attachment 2928448

Attachment 2928450

Attachment 2928452

Attachment 2928454

Attachment 2928456

guidolyons 04-23-2019 09:23 PM

4 Attachment(s)
After my last wheeling trip in October, I kinda bent my winch mount a little. I did a field expedient repair (pulled off the winch and pounded the plate flat as I could get it with a BFH), but considering I had slapped it on "temporarily" ~10 years ago it held up remarkable well, even pulled and F350 out with it, fullly expecting it to come flying off.
"It's only temporary, unless it works!"~Red Green :laughing:


The original winch plate was too short to span the frame rails and only had 6 short stitch welds holding it to the bumper. I've got another 'wheeling trip coming up, so I finally decided I should get a larger winch plate.

I cut off the old winch plate and added a proper winch plate that was wide enough to span the frame rails, and has a 90* lip along the back edge for more rigidity. Even threw some fresh paint on the ol' winch.

Attachment 2928458

Attachment 2928460

Attachment 2928462

Attachment 2928464

guidolyons 06-03-2019 09:07 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Santa brought me a D60 ARB for the front, but of course my usual procrastinating self waited until the week before a wheeling trip to stuff it in, as well as finally install the high steer tie rod that I've had for 6 months.

Didn't have a case spreader and couldn't get the old carrier out with a prybar, so I wrapped a strap around it and used the winch.

Attachment 2933024

All braided stainless lines and Clippard pneumatic switches for the ARBs. No electrical solenoids, all manual (except for the 1 switch for the compressor) The clear PVC lines are the vent lines for the pneumatic switches.

Attachment 2933026


Of course my new high steer tie rod wanted to occupy the same real estate as my lower radiator hose, so I had to rework that.

Attachment 2933028

Attachment 2933030

MochaMike 06-03-2019 09:12 PM

I’ve pulled 1/2 dozen gears out using 4x4 wood blocks, bottle jack & a ratchet strap. Best part is when it pops out it hits the wood.

guidolyons 06-12-2019 03:25 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Attachment 2934000

Attachment 2934002

Attachment 2934004

Attachment 2934006

'71 800B 06-18-2019 08:15 AM

Looks like a good time. How did the new tires perform?


I found that putting a box end on a ring gear bolt and rolling it up against the housing then using a big pry bar under the lowest bolt and the housing pops them right out.

turtlehead 06-18-2019 12:54 PM

Guido, I'm about to start on my 1966 Scout 800 build with HP D60's front & rear, but wondering how wide your axles are? I'd imaging full width (66-67") but narrowed up with the H2 wheels, but wanted to confirm.

guidolyons 06-21-2019 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '71 800B (Post 44486886)
Looks like a good time. How did the new tires perform?


I found that putting a box end on a ring gear bolt and rolling it up against the housing then using a big pry bar under the lowest bolt and the housing pops them right out.

Was going to try that, but ring gear bolts were 15/16"? 13/16"? Didn't have not a box end wrench that fit. I had a socket, but that wouldn't wedge in there properly to drive the carrier out.

Very happy with the Maxxis Razr, for such an aggressive tread, they are fairly quiet on-road and did very well off road. Threw 14oz of Airsoft BBs in when I mounted them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by turtlehead (Post 44487366)
Guido, I'm about to start on my 1966 Scout 800 build with HP D60's front & rear, but wondering how wide your axles are? I'd imaging full width (66-67") but narrowed up with the H2 wheels, but wanted to confirm.

Yep, full width, I did not narrow them. Front Chevy SRW D60 is ~69.5" wide WMS-WMS and the 14BFF is ~67" WMS-WMS in rear.

runit02 08-10-2019 10:28 PM

Have you had any cooling issues with your setup?

guidolyons 08-13-2019 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by runit02 (Post 44558532)
Have you had any cooling issues with your setup?

None at all. Runs at 185*-190* all day long.

Dmaddoxboss 09-16-2019 06:23 PM

looking good!


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