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Old 03-22-2017, 10:54 PM   #301 (permalink)
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To the ramp!



As I feared..




Now, I have to decide.

Do I cut the corner of the firewall and bring that "in" a little and call it good?

Or do I push the front axle forward 1"?

I could redrill the spring perch center pin, unbolt, slide forward, etc.

The front bumper would probably still clear.

This, with the tire turned right, not left


DUH, clearance isn't so bad straight ahead.


but you can sure make out that little chunk of firewall/floor pan that needs to go.

It already had the pinch weld trimmed and plated. I can cut some from this corner and still keep my clutch.

No worries if the driveshaft is long enough, no moving the shocks from the front to the back of the mount.. I'm very tempted to just cut and plate that corner on both sides..




On the plus side, the extra tubbing I did in the rear makes the 44x18.50s fit. Not much left over, but they fit.



That should make the new 42s an easy fit.

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Old 03-22-2017, 11:08 PM   #302 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RANGERROD View Post
Your tilting seats is very familiar to mine. I never quite finished mine. I used bear claw latches to hold mine down. The pivot point was basically the same.

I'll have to go back through your build great documentation.
Thanks.

I found some of those nicer latches after I was already on my way.

Aside from some clearancing to do to make the pins slide in and out a little better, I like round 2 - with the split tube for the handle and a single cable run (not two) - though it hasn't proven any easier to adjust the "two" lengths than using two runs of cable was.

I think I really need to lower the entire seat frame in the Scout so I can have a little more head-room AND if I need to, I can raise the seat tabs, but as it stands, I have everything about as low as I can manage without lowering the seat mounting bars.

I do like that my wife can run 5pts AND my kids can get out when she tilts the seat.

I have since added a tension spring under the passenger seat - and need to add another - to help her lift/tilt the seat.
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:16 PM   #303 (permalink)
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Thanks.

I found some of those nicer latches after I was already on my way.

Aside from some clearancing to do to make the pins slide in and out a little better, I like round 2 - with the split tube for the handle and a single cable run (not two) - though it hasn't proven any easier to adjust the "two" lengths than using two runs of cable was.

I think I really need to lower the entire seat frame in the Scout so I can have a little more head-room AND if I need to, I can raise the seat tabs, but as it stands, I have everything about as low as I can manage without lowering the seat mounting bars.

I do like that my wife can run 5pts AND my kids can get out when she tilts the seat.

I have since added a tension spring under the passenger seat - and need to add another - to help her lift/tilt the seat.
Only thing I have that you don't is seat sliders too. It was a bitch getting the seats low. Keep it up!!
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:35 PM   #304 (permalink)
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Only thing I have that you don't is seat sliders too. It was a bitch getting the seats low. Keep it up!!
That's why no sliders yet.. I can't afford the height right now.

I'm also unclear on if sliders are a good thing with 5pts or if they're too likely to move around in a bad situation.

Another depiction of breaking down the bead locks.





(That was an expensive bucket - it is the one my e-locker came in LOL)

I've been putting some tire beads in with the new TSLs.

I forget what Robert said he used previously, but for the good of the order, I'm not sure what's going on inside this one. I found some powder like this in the other tires, but this one sorta looks like someone didn't open the bag.




Those are thin curls of plastic mixed with the balancing powder.

Hopefully it is just that - someone tossed the bag in. Otherwise, whatever was used, maybe it didn't hold up.

Saturday night I finished mounting the last of 'em, and on Sunday I got them all installed


They stick out about the same as the 38s did.



Much more manageable than the 44x18.50s..


So, no sooner than I got the 4 tires installed, I pulled the LF..

As you can see, I had worked on the pinch weld before.



I pulled the vent, pulled the dimmer switch, made some marks and away I went.

I used the 3" air-cut-off - the Sawzall hit the rocker/fender/something else most of the time, and while the plasma would have been awesome, there's too much oil on everything from the broken motor mount/oil filter AND there's the bedliner in the interior - with the cut-off wheel the bedliner just smoked a bit.

I did wash the area with 409 before I got started to get the worst of it.

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Old 03-26-2017, 09:43 PM   #305 (permalink)
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So, back to the ramp.

I should've turned the hubs in - even without the tire hitting, it gets to where it shoves the ramp forward rather than climb it - I'm too lazy to drop the A-arms and make it sit in the dirt.




It cleared, though I still had another 1/4" or so of up-travel to account for.






Not much extra though.




So after I got back around to the driveway, I cut some more out for good measure.



Then a cardboard template.



I transferred it to some 18g sheet metal and got that about fitted before it was time for dinner. Maybe tomorrow evening I'll tack it into place and make another trip up the ramp - then cut the same out of the passenger side.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:25 PM   #306 (permalink)
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This time, I turned in the hubs and crept farther up the ramp.




Looks like I should've cut just a little more - but that would get into the flange for the vent. Not that the vents work, or it is a big deal - just another headache to followup with.



I see a gap in my weld, too.



This time I made it to the bump stop.



(Bump and shock fully compressed)

Much more, and I will have to worry about my brake lines - as they come out of the master.



I worked the wheel a little and listened to the tire scrub on the firewall - but "just"



So, I'm inclined to call it good enough - it lightly rubs at full bump, but a little tire wear will fix that.

I need to grind down the seam a little more, maybe tack that spot I missed, and hit it with some paint.

I'll try to get a little closer to the vent when I do the passenger side.

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Old 03-27-2017, 08:32 PM   #307 (permalink)
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Rear also went a little farther - and scrapes a little.








Rear of the quarter panel needs trimmed just a touch - the wheel well is done, so I'll live with it regardless - but it, too, looks like it barely scrapes.




And since I was under there.. undercarriage mess..



...and does ~670 on the RTI ramp make me a ramp champ? (I think I need to add 3" to account for the missing nose of the ramp).

OTOH, I forget what the angle is - it's a 35deg ramp when it sits on the ground, but with the A-arms down and the tires on it, I need to check what the angle is..

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Old 04-03-2017, 12:26 AM   #308 (permalink)
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Those TSL's look

BTW, What's your frame height with the new tires?
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Old 04-03-2017, 09:58 PM   #309 (permalink)
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Thanks.

23" just behind the front hangers/cab mount, and 22.5/22.75 at the front of the rear hangers/mid mount.



Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
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Old 04-04-2017, 06:20 PM   #310 (permalink)
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looking great.
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Old 04-05-2017, 06:00 PM   #311 (permalink)
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Damn those 42s look HUGE. Those Hutchison beadlocks are awesome. 16" or 16.5"?
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Old 04-13-2017, 12:25 PM   #312 (permalink)
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Nice well documented build you have going on. The TSLs look like they were made for your rig.
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Old 08-21-2017, 08:24 PM   #313 (permalink)
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Damn those 42s look HUGE. Those Hutchison beadlocks are awesome. 16" or 16.5"?
Thanks! These are the border-partrol 16" aluminum wheels.

I have some steel H1 16.5s but I haven't moved the 44s to the H1s yet.

Father's day we wheeled.. and found a spring fed mud hole that I crawled into far too timidly..





I could only go DOWN so I took the strap..

I also fell off a bridge on that trip - which, after getting out and taking stock, I just put it in gear and drove the rest of the way across and out.




Last weekend we went to McKelvy - what passes for a difficult trail in summer around here.



The passenger seat is working out well for Michelle, except she still needs help with the belts.

Audrey was angling for my seat..



8psi in the 42s did well until Mike parked his Bronco on them - then they squished a bit.




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Old 08-21-2017, 08:27 PM   #314 (permalink)
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There are enough, and big enough, rocks on this trail that I had to remember how to drive once in a while.

The 14-bolt drug more than a few times, but I also nailed the front diff - and the bolt on the steering ram.


The Scout worked well. I did scrape the passenger firewall a couple of times - the bump stop came loose, which may be part of it, or I need to see if that spring is going soft on me.





This picture is from Cliff Lake, a little higher up.



I took this picture in 2002..



Along with this one.

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Old 01-16-2018, 09:00 PM   #315 (permalink)
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Following our Christmas Tree run back in December, I stopped at Costco on the way home to get something - I forget what - and then when I stepped outside to head home..

Darn it if it wasn't a camp follower.



I left a note for the little Scout - turns out it was a gift to the owner from her dad.

Not often I encounter another Scout at Costco..
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:04 PM   #316 (permalink)
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Over the Christmas break I made enough room in the shop to get the Scout inside.



And warm up the groover..



So I could do harm to my tires - and make them work a little better.



My goal was to diagonal cut every big lug opposite of the existing molded slot - I goofed on the rear tires and cut every other big lug in half, too, before I realized I meant to ONLY have the deep molded cut and the rest be diagonal.

I got the fronts right.. where you see the extra horizontal cut on the rears, the front tires just got siped.

I also siped the blocks - those are the thin lines.

I think they work better, but it's not like I drove it one day on the same terrain before and after.. but from past experience, siping makes all the difference on ice, and more bite is generally a good thing otherwise.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:15 PM   #317 (permalink)
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The bigger reason for getting the Scout in the shop is a long standing problem.

When I pulled the 33gal fuel tank (originally sourced from Mark Korsten's "Eyore" many years ago) from Tigger, I used a pry bar to re[move the filler hose - and bent the mouth into a D instead of an O.

I couldn't figure out how to fix it, and finally just put it in.

It leaked.

I made it leak less by putting some spacers "under" the hose and inside the worm clamp so I could apply some pressure to the spout, but it still leaked. Every trail ride.

Enough is enough.



Plan A was a not great one.

Since it's in the Scout and full of gas, cutting the spout off and welding on a new one was out of the question, and beating on it too hard was a bad idea, so Plan A:

Epoxy the spout into something resembling an O.



Bootyfab? Sure, but it had a chance to succeed.

I wound up with a new hose while I was at it, and couldn't get the hose to go over the goobered up spout.

So I remembered seeing an exhaust expander at HF and thought that might help me limber up the hose.. when my friend Blair suggested I might use the expander to fix the spout instead.

doh!

I had looked for something like that a few years ago when I was putting the tank in and came up empty handed - that was before our HF opened.




I can report that the tailpipe expander didn't expect to expand my D-shaped fill spout.. but I can also report that HF stocked 5 of them (and there were 2 left when I was done)



I destroyed two in the process, thanks to the uneven loading on the tool, and my reluctance to press on for fear that big chunks of the tool would fall into the fuel tank..


In the end, I fixed it right, installed a new hose and clamps, and best of all - when I filled up the gas tank to FULL for the first time in forever, it didn't leak.

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Old 01-16-2018, 09:26 PM   #318 (permalink)
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Big Sky 4-Wheelers held their 2018 Snow Bash on January 13th in Kalispell.

This event goes up Blacktail Mountain outside Lakeside, MT (overlooking Flathead Lake) and traverses the BFG Outstanding Trail, the Blacktail/Wild Bill OHV trail - one of the oldest adopt-a-trails in the country.

Except we do it in the snow.

Some folks at work asked if my car was broken.. others thought it was so tall they could see it over the snow berm (vs sitting on the trailer)


We got an early start Friday afternoon trying to beat the darkness and more snow. I'm not a fan of needing 4-high in my tow rig to pull a grade on a paved highway, but that's what it took from Polson to Kalispell that night.

It seemed like everyone from Helena was there - including Mike Kelly with his Bronco.







Scouts have functional tailgates..




..and yeah, I may have a few too many microphones..


(CB, VHF/UHF ham, VHF Business Band (M4x4A and BS4W have a total of 3 licensed frequencies), and HF)

It was a good time, even in 6' of snow.

5.5psi was still too much air and I would've gone lower if we hadn't reached the top of the mountain.

I did bury myself a few times - but on at least one occasion, 4-high came to the rescue when wheel-speed popped me back out.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:49 PM   #319 (permalink)
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And now a tech question, since Mike Kelly had to make me start thinking..

Build 392, wide T19, 3.15:1 Dana 20, 60/14-bolt, 4.56s, 42s.


Should I be planning the wake for my Dana 20?


If I'm running a 10-spline rear output shaft? Would a 26-spline make a difference?

Do I need to think about the 32sp upgrade (the highly polished turd route)?

I'm also kicking around a few other scenarios.

T19 adapted to 23-spline round pattern, and then I could run all sorts of things.

Or an AA/CPT NV4500 adapter and all sorts of transfercase options (aside from buying the NV4500, cost is about a wash between adapting a T19 to 23/round vs adapting the NV4500 to the IH and using the factory tailhousing from the 4500)

I think a single-speed Atlas behind a Dodge NV4500 with the IH adapter in front will roughly center the t'case.

If a stocker is ~24" front and 40" rear driveshafts, the 4500/Atlas would put me around 32/32 depending on how far apart the front and rear outputs are, and of course exactly where my 2" of extra front wheel base puts me, but I'd be very close to equal-length driveshafts (bonus, one spare).

That would let me get a little more front suspension travel (steering limits uptravel right now, and max U-joint angle limits droop).

Seems to rule out a 4spd Atlas.

5:1 low range would make low/OD just a little lower than 2nd gear high.

..and I could stop any worrying about whether the transfercase would hold up, and maybe it'd stop leaking.


T19 is 11.875 long with a 1" adapter and a 10.5" Dana 20.

The round adapter is 3.250 long

NV4500 is 12.375 long with a 6.25" adapter.

Assuming a 1" adapter plate between the NV4500 and the IH bell housing..

23.375" today from the rear of the bell to the rear output.

NV4500 and Atlas 2spd shorty is 31.425

Almost 8" longer.

(Round adapter T19 with Atlas is 26.925)

That takes the 24"-ish front to 32 and 40 rear to 32.

4spd would make that 37/25. Hmm.. I could maybe swap the front and rear driveshafts at that point, except for the 14-bolt yoke taking a larger U-joint.

I suppose the other thing to ponder, since the adapted T19 would save me 4.25" that almost makes up the difference between a 2spd and 4spd case.
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Old 01-22-2018, 12:17 PM   #320 (permalink)
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Tom,

I would polish the turd for now...32spline upgrade for the rear of the Dana20. That would at least "buy you time" for upgrade round two.

If you are stuck on using a manual transmission, then yes I would vote for the NV4500. I would also look at a nice used 2sp Atlas.
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Old 01-22-2018, 10:36 PM   #321 (permalink)
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That run was the reason we got the 40's for our scout. We couldn't make it and missed out on a good time. I spotted your scout in a few pictures that got shared on the book of faces.

That is a kick ass OHV area. We ran the 1st 3rd Kill Bill run last year.
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:43 PM   #322 (permalink)
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I'd say go cheaper route first. Wheel and slowly gather parts for the nv 4500 atlas combo. At the same time I did this I'd upgrade my front u joint to match the rear so one complete ds could be a spare and you wouldn't need an extra yoke. Just my .02
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Old 01-30-2018, 11:18 PM   #323 (permalink)
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Tom,

I would polish the turd for now...32spline upgrade for the rear of the Dana20. That would at least "buy you time" for upgrade round two.

If you are stuck on using a manual transmission, then yes I would vote for the NV4500. I would also look at a nice used 2sp Atlas.
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I'd say go cheaper route first. Wheel and slowly gather parts for the nv 4500 atlas combo. At the same time I did this I'd upgrade my front u joint to match the rear so one complete ds could be a spare and you wouldn't need an extra yoke. Just my .02
I like the idea of changing one yoke out so the spare can swap.

I'm currently running a CV up front, but the rear is a standard U-joint on both ends.

If I wind up running a rear CV I'll need to tip the pinion and that'll mean adjusting the ladder bar, but then one spare.

Perhaps a 4.0L manual TJ front driveshaft.



So, I'm on the prowl for an NV4500.

And maybe a 32-sp AA rear output kit (which will also require cutting down the rear driveshaft because it is 2" longer).



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That run was the reason we got the 40's for our scout. We couldn't make it and missed out on a good time. I spotted your scout in a few pictures that got shared on the book of faces.

That is a kick ass OHV area. We ran the 1st 3rd Kill Bill run last year.
I was up there 2 years ago for SnowBash, with my 38s.

Before that it was at the last Divide Ride (with my old Scout), and going back a bit more I was there for the BFG Outstanding Trails presentation in.. 2008. I wheeled my "street" Scout that day. It was our first time using our new camper, and it snowed that Memorial Day and I ran out of propane.

I also found out that the plastic trailer receptacle I wired to the rear bumper didn't much like it when I used the rear bumper as a plow and shoved dirt into it..


OK, so I don't have an NV4500 in hand yet, but I do have some more tech..
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Old 01-30-2018, 11:32 PM   #324 (permalink)
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I put a CS144 in the Scout a few years back.

I've also gone to an electric fan, dual heated seats, a 12v oven, the blanket for the kids - plus the FI and all of the radios.

I noticed when the alternator pigtail failed one day that the Scout would overheat because the voltage dropped and the fan output dropped.

I fixed it, but then sometimes noticed over the summer it would get hot on the trail for no good reason (just loafing along on a road).

I finally checked the voltage and found it fluctuates - sometimes 11v (yikes) other times 13.5 or so - but never 14+, almost never 13.8 even.

A little more research says that, because we have an ammeter (bypassed) and not an idiot light, I should have added a resistor into the wiring harness when I did the alternator swap.

Yeah, no resistor. Overall resistance was very low.

Some people claim low resistance will fry the voltage regulator on the CS144.

Hmmm..

I bought a new conversion harness with a resistor, but it didn't really do much at this point.

So maybe my alternator is going to beat the Dana 20 to the grave.

So... the AD244 appears to be the top of, and end of, the line for alternators. After the AD244, GM went to computer controlled alternators - usually controlled by the ECM (or something like it) but sometimes with a stand-alone alternator controller (NOT an external voltage regulator..)

I haven't found any of those stand alone management units.

This all has something to do with fuel economy and regulating when the alternator makes power.

Anyhow, after the CS144 GM made the AD244 which is an ever so slightly upgraded version, physically the same size, but a smidge more bottom end power.

Mine claims a little more low-end and a little less top end. ~2amps worth more at the low end and less at the top end.

It still comes with a dynosheet claiming 178amps.

[img]http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/piwigo/i.php?/galleries/SnoScout/2018/012018_ad244/IMG_20180120_162615907-me.jpg[/mig]



The CS144 went in nicely more or less but the AD244 needs a different adapter harness and the offset (not 12 & 6) mounting ear is a problem.




After I swapped pulleys out and compared with an old 10si from the stock pile.




Here is the CS144 installed.



Pigtail I needed


Notice that the connector (common with the early CS130D) looks a lot like a 4-pin MetriPak (and I have those and the crimper for them) but it has a couple of notches that are different and the clip is on the other side.

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Old 01-30-2018, 11:39 PM   #325 (permalink)
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Member # 2071
Location: Helena, MT USA
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The alternator adjuster/tensioner wouldn't go - it was too long, and the curve hit the alternator and so forth.

My first thought was a jack-screw.


I even welded it up and painted it.

A square gets bolted to the lower AC bracket's mounting bolt.

A nut is welded to the square and the jackscrew passes through it and presses against the alternator body.
Done.

The screw didn't land wholly on the casting, so I even built a "foot" from a few inches of tubing and some flat-strap to try to make sure it stayed on the casting.

Then I had second thoughts, and I was researching turnbuckle assemblies instead - a 3/8 heim on either end with an adjuster.

I think it would work, but before I pulled the trigger on $30 worth of parts, I had one more thing to try.

I dug out a broken power steering pump bracket from the pile and remove the tensioner.




It didn't work "the right way" because again the adjuster slot hit the fins on the alternator casting and so forth.

But it doesn't have to go in that way, does it?

So I reversed it.

The single hole is on the alternator, and the slot is on the mount/engine bolt.

Just mocked up for the moment, but tomorrow I'll finish the install.

Then see if I get 14V and how happy everything might be..
__________________
-Tom
KE7VUX
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