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Old 02-04-2010, 05:48 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by montanatrout View Post
lookin good dude, I talked to Matt, and he said you had a thread going on. youre gunna love the links up front versus your old 80 springs! keep up the good work and we'll have to get together again when i get back to Oregon, it'll be in sep. for Jesse's wedding.......laters......chris
Thanks Chris, Are you bringing any old iron to the wedding?
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:45 AM   #102 (permalink)
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I pulled the CV shaft and torqued the front output yoke of the TC and I do believe that was the source of my pool of oil.

I built the other upper link and got all the links painted.



I'm in the middle of reassembeling the outers. The axle is painted and being the marteting man I am, I display one of the main features of my new hi pinion swap.... Upside down



I got the power steeting box mounting reinforced and drilled. I'm going to start with a stock Scout II pitman arm. I needed to clearance the panhard mount on the underside of the frame to get full motion in the pitman arm.



I need to remember to hook up that plug wire...

I pulled the steering shaft off at the rag joint, and was delighted to see that the old shaft is long enough for shortening and grinding flats for the Double D steering joint.

I think I am going to resist temptation and complete the power steering before I put the axle in. But I sure want to put that axle in...
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:38 PM   #103 (permalink)
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I think I am going to resist temptation and complete the power steering before I put the axle in. But I sure want to put that axle in...
Oh well, I couldn't wait









I got the axle reassembled, the power steering pump mounted, v-belt installed, farted around with the PS lines for routing, and looked at the steering shaft again.

I couldn't resist sticking the axle in. I have not adjusted the links yet, for length. I have the tie rod sitting under the arms instead of over as planned. I may change to over, but it will depend on the final angle for a drag link, and that depends on the pitman arm. I'm pretty sure I woun't be going to any kind of a drop pitman at this point.
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Old 02-13-2010, 07:20 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Believe it or not, there are about a million adjustments to be made on this front end. I had the axle under the rig on jackstands with the weight on the axle so it was about ride height and it had a significant lean to the passenger side.

The first thing I did today was the get the both lowers links the same length, then the upper links, then I adjusted the caster and pinion angle. I also added some preload to the shocks and who would have thought, the body sits level to the axle now





And here it the preload on the shock



I got the power steering box and the steering shaft hooked up. The mods to the stock 800 steering shaft were very easy. I have a Flaming River steering joint with a 13/16" 36 spline on one side and a double D on the other. The stock shaft is solid on this end, and I measured about 10 times and cut once (about 1") and ground the double D flats on the new shaft, assembled it and it fit fine

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Old 02-13-2010, 07:43 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Continued from above...

I need some input on the pitman arm. Here is the box mounted with the steering shaft connected and the power steering lines connected.

This is a stock Scout II pitman arm, and I want to heat and bend the lower bent to flatten the arm (end upward toward the frame). I am also considering shortening the pitman arm up to about 3". I would drill for the TRE, and I was thinking I may want to add a few beads to the sides of the arm at the new hole for reinforcement. Is the stock arm cast or forged?



Here is the other problem...

The power steering pump is a stock Scout II, the engine is a 345, the fan and shroud are stock 800. My power steering belt is into the fan blades.





I am not using a stock Scout II pully as there is no way to fit the diameter between the shroud and the inner fender. I have a 3" pully, but the belt form the crank hits the fan blades.

I could look for an offset pully that would go to the rear and clear the front snout of the pump, or maybe put some spacers under the fan and move the fan forward where I have at least a 1/2".

Any Ideas?
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Old 02-13-2010, 10:36 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Its a cast steel arm, so its weldable with normal methods. I would just pull one at the junk yard and use it. The waggy arm does not have much drop and is a lot shorter. Take the Scout arm with you as there are lots of arms that will work. both Ford and chevy




as for the fan belt, you could move the engine back Or the radiator forward. Either way somthing has to be done to gain clearance, fan spacer would be easy
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:00 PM   #107 (permalink)
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As for the fan belt, you could move the engine back Or the radiator forward. Either way somthing has to be done to gain clearance, fan spacer would be easy
I moved the engine, tranny and t case back 1", cut the rear Drive line and lengthened the the Front DL, but the fan was still hitting, cause it moved back with the engine

Then I picked up a 1/2" spacer for a flex fan and put that in and it did the trick, I wish I would have tried that first.

I now have working power steering, and it turns the pitman arm very easily...
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Old 02-14-2010, 10:25 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Buck if you have any more issues with the PS pump, look at a truck pump they will work on 800s with out hacking up the inner fenders.
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Old 02-15-2010, 08:46 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Buck if you have any more issues with the PS pump, look at a truck pump they will work on 800s with out hacking up the inner fenders.
Well, I think I have it in there now. I did have to do a bunch o cuttin' for my shock towers, and the PS box, But I promise to look hard at a different pump if I think I need to cut in a hood scoop for the PS pump




Come to think of it, If I ever think I need to do a full resto on a Scout


I might just look for a new VIN...
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:08 PM   #110 (permalink)
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WOOOHOOO!!!



Doesn't it look like its ready?



(The driver's tire is the spare, Last run, I popped a bead and threw the spare on to get home I do have 4 swampers).



It may look ready, but I have got to dial in the steering linkages.

Now this would be about ideal, both the panhard and the drag link are in this shot.



However, it's not that simple, in this position, the panhard in in the highest setting, closest to the oil pan at stuff, and I don't get full turning movement with the new pitman.

Here is the Bronco pitman with the panhard in the lowest axle position. I think what I might do is move the axle end of the drag link from the knuckle to the tie rod with a block placed just about directly in front of the panhard mount. this should let me use the preferred Bronco pitman, the lower panhard hole and (hopefully) get full steering movement.



Here is the stock Scout II pitman, It gives me full turning, but the drag link and the panhard are way out of sync.



Now for the big pisser...

The passenger seal in the carrier is not sealing. I may be pulling the axle completely down the figure out how to get a working seal. This side is the stock full size bronco tube so I would have thought a stock seal would have been simple.

I'm going to pull the cover and see if I can do anything without pulling the whole thing down. I am also going to see if I could find a seal to go in from the knuckle end and "lube the tube".

We'll see...
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:03 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Now for the big pisser...

The passenger seal in the carrier is not sealing. I may be pulling the axle completely down the figure out how to get a working seal. This side is the stock full size bronco tube so I would have thought a stock seal would have been simple.

I'm going to pull the cover and see if I can do anything without pulling the whole thing down. I am also going to see if I could find a seal to go in from the knuckle end and "lube the tube".

We'll see...
Here is a possible solution.

Any other ideas?



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Old 02-17-2010, 03:42 PM   #112 (permalink)
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It's offical, It's a big pisser...

I pulled the short side axle and the inner seals if floating around, so out goes the carrier and we'll see if I can get the right seal and get it installed the right way.

At least it only took 35 minutes to pull the axle on the first side...
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Old 02-17-2010, 05:31 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Here is a possible solution.

Any other ideas?



I think with that seal you may have trouble getting the axle in without screwing up the seal....
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:15 PM   #114 (permalink)
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I think with that seal you may have trouble getting the axle in without screwing up the seal....
The big green diaphram won't work, wrong outside diameter for my axle tube. That being said, I was planning on using this as an outer seal, plugging the knuckle end, so the axle would have been inserted the correct direction, and I would have been running a "wet" tube.

It turns out I received the incorrect inner seals from Randy's. It worked on the retubed side because the ID of the heavy tube was so much smaller. The stock 78 Bronco seal "should" have been ok, but shame on me for not recognizng the wrong part.

I now have, what I believe is the correct part for the stock side and I'll put it in this weekend. I also believe I have looked at every D-44 axle seal known to man.

I didn't want to wheel anyway

Thanks for the reply Binder
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:37 PM   #115 (permalink)
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I was planning on using this as an outer seal, plugging the knuckle end, so the axle would have been inserted the correct direction, and I would have been running a "wet" tube.
That could work but I think a typical front axle tends to move around and not be centered with the tube on the outer ends. May or may not have enough movement to cause trouble, I don't know.
Sounds like you may have the inner seal figured out though.
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:03 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Here's the before and after pic I wanted.

I think the tire slicing days may be over...

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Old 02-18-2010, 10:47 AM   #117 (permalink)
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lookin' good Buck!
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:05 PM   #118 (permalink)
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lookin' good Buck!
Thanks.

Well, I fixed the seals today.

I do believe I'm now the guy you want a a trail run when an axle breaks...

I pulled both axles, the carrier, and replaced the inner seals, and got it all buttoned up and filled, in a little over two hours.

I'm down to bumpstops, tighten all bolts, make a working drag link and try it out.

Maybe by Sunday.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:10 AM   #119 (permalink)
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we'll see about the brown trout, but looks like you will be ready! definatley gunna try check out what im doing to my dodgehttps://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=864848
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Old 02-19-2010, 06:20 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Well....

I may be good at pulling axles, but I sure can't seem to install seals
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Old 02-20-2010, 10:24 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Well....

I may be good at pulling axles, but I sure can't seem to install seals
not again
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Old 02-20-2010, 11:38 AM   #122 (permalink)
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awesome job and awesome build thread. cant wait to see pics of it on the trail.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:44 AM   #123 (permalink)
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not again
As a matter of fact, yes again...

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awesome job and awesome build thread. cant wait to see pics of it on the trail.
Thanks, I can't wait either.


If...

If you ever do a retubing job like I did on the long side, you need to consider and resolve the inner axle seals before you assemble the axle housing!

I thought we had measured everything from the inner face of the tube and I would be using a stock Bronco seal. In case you don't know, most inner axle seals are not like a single surface pinion seal or wheel bearing seal, they are two or more "stages" or diameters and will need to end up with a pressure fit in the axle tube.

I'm sure most everyone knows this, I learned it the hard way...



This was the ouriginal seal I installed in the retubed side. the first time I had it RTVed in and it may have been sealed, or simple the gaps were bigger on the other side and the fluid went out over there.

The second time, I installed the stock seal on the short side and this seal leaked.

I ended up finding out the finished seal surface on the largest diameter doesent make any contact with the housing, it is all on the single edge surface, and I think I just got lucky it didn't leak the first time.

I ended up filling this gap with o rings and it made a very firm tap in fit. I pulled it and RTV'ed the shit out of it and tapped it in again.

I sure hope it works...


I completed the assembly and finished the steering links. I think the geometry of the Panhard and drag link are about as good as I could have planned.





I ran out of daylight, but I am down to tightening, reinstalling the skid plate and mounting the shock reserviors and mounting the wheels, then we'll see if it drives better.
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:57 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Well, I know someone who is off the jackstands!







I took it around the block, it felt a bit loose. I brought it back in and took the rear tires from 3 and 6 psi to 25 all the way around. I had to tighten the power steering belt some, but is feels pretty good.

I'm still at the "I sure hope the whole front end doesn't drop out" stage

The front end came out at 63" WMS, which is 3.5" wider than than stock Scout II. The power steering is a bit quick, but I was able to go lock to lock with a great turning radius without rubbing the tires on the frame or links.

I still need to trap the shock reseviors and charge the shocks. I was able to get the other Swamper out of the back and I'll get it remounted and then some get a couple of miles on it and do some allignment to the links. I am also going to raise the rear 2" with my adjustable coil buckets to level it out a bit.



And nearly best of all.

No leaking from the seals.
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Old 02-23-2010, 08:17 AM   #125 (permalink)
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I'm still at the "I sure hope the whole front end doesn't drop out" stage
I hate that stage,takes awhile to go away

I wish I had the time and coin to do mine.

Nice work.
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