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Old 02-23-2010, 09:44 AM   #126 (permalink)
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Very nice, looks great.
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:22 PM   #127 (permalink)
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HELL YA! got er back on the road. I just took my snowplow off mine hopefully for the year. dont forget to do a re-torque on all your bolts
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Old 02-25-2010, 07:09 AM   #128 (permalink)
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HELL YA! got er back on the road. I just took my snowplow off mine hopefully for the year. dont forget to do a re-torque on all your bolts
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Very nice, looks great.
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I hate that stage,takes awhile to go away

I wish I had the time and coin to do mine.

Nice work.
Thanks, and yes it is going to be time to torque everything.

Next chance I get to work on it, I have the adjust the link length a bit to get the shock travel off ths side of the shock tower, then grease everything, and I think I'll add that last $10.00 of friction modifier for the power-loc (I didn't really want to flush yet another $10 out the seals)

Now my newb question for Tuesday...

I want to warm up the front gears a bit. If I put the t-case in 4hi with the hubs out and put a few miles on it, will that put enough torque on the R & P to do any good, that is of course before I drive it like a rental?
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Old 02-25-2010, 03:08 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Damn, its about time I found you on this site. Though I don't frequent as much as i used to. Glad to see you got it moving again. I got my D60 in pieces at the moment, hoping to be rolling by this weekend again. Then thinkin on a McGrew run in the next few weeks. I'll keep you updated on that.

Did you go with all new R&P? IMO lock the hubs in and run it around for 10-15 mins, get them good and warm. I don't think you'll be able to work them enough just by spinning the front shaft.
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:00 PM   #130 (permalink)
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Whooohooo! I made it home!

10 miles from the shop to home in only 7 weeks!



I lifted the rear about 1-1/2" and leveled it out a bit, charged the shocks with 130# nitrogen, and made it home without event (something falling off or hitting anything)

I drove on a highway at 45+ and it felt pretty good, things feel quicker, but we have wind gusts to about 30mph.

And here are the ultimate poser shots...








This ditch is al least 8" deep!



There's no place like home...
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:36 AM   #131 (permalink)
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I need some input on my power steering.

The stock Scout II pully is 4-1/2", and I am running 3-1/2" which I would assume is spinning the pump faster. I think I am running very hot on the PS fluid, and I get the feeling I'll be going through pumps.

So,

1. I could go to the 4-1/2" PS pully, and that would require a bit more trimming on the inner fender.

2. I could add a power steering cooler in front of the radiator. I already have a auto tranny cooler in front of the radiator, and I do not have any engine cooling problems now with the stock 800 radiator. Will adding another cooler compromise the cooling system with reduced air flow?

What do you think?
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:48 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Do it. I run a +/- 6"x14" cooler in my PS system and it seems to add zero additional heat to the cooling system.

My cooler is a standard tranny cooler I had left over from some other project.
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Old 02-27-2010, 01:27 PM   #133 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Buck Dodson View Post
[IMG]

I looked a ORI struts long enough to see $900 each
Mine were ~$500 each. (STs) The DP3s are about $300 more expensive due to the extra valving.



Now that I've gotten through the rest of the thread, I am fired up again.

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Old 02-27-2010, 02:40 PM   #134 (permalink)
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Do it. I run a +/- 6"x14" cooler in my PS system and it seems to add zero additional heat to the cooling system.

My cooler is a standard tranny cooler I had left over from some other project.
I think what I might do, is use my existing tranny cooler which is about 6 x 12for the power steering and add a bigger tranny cooler, as I did fuse my tranny that one time

Any concerns about the smaller pully and higher RPM on the PS pump?
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Old 02-27-2010, 04:25 PM   #135 (permalink)
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Congrats man. Looks awesome.
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:12 PM   #136 (permalink)
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I think what I might do, is use my existing tranny cooler which is about 6 x 12for the power steering and add a bigger tranny cooler, as I did fuse my tranny that one time

Any concerns about the smaller pully and higher RPM on the PS pump?
What is your max RPM going to be? Probably about 2000 less than a SBC... You'll probably be fine..... just run it.
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Old 02-28-2010, 09:38 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Buck I used to run one of those Mile Marker hydro winches and it would boil the fluid and trash the pump. I was a dumb ass and I wanted to fix the POS and make it work I now run a HS9000i and am very happy with it. Here are the issues with power steering, with the small amount of fluid in your system it cycles around and around getting hotter and hotter as you are using it. My SSII I am now set up with hydro boost, and a ram. I run a remote filter, and a large cooler to add more fluid to the system to keep it cooler as it gets compressed. My junk also has a remote res to add more fluid volume to the system. I also use Amsoil syn fluid to keep it stable in the conditions we run in. I got a small pump that circle track racers use and it whines a little but it has good pressure even at idle, as I remember it was about 125 bones when I got it and very easy to get mounted up on the 392.
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Old 02-28-2010, 09:50 AM   #138 (permalink)
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Double post sorry.
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Old 02-28-2010, 10:19 PM   #139 (permalink)
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I would just add in a small cooler. You shouldn't notice anything different in temp. Speaking of, give me a call. I think I have one in my shop that is just collecting dust and if so, you are welcome to it.
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Old 02-28-2010, 11:13 PM   #140 (permalink)
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Thanks all,

I'm going to start with the cooler and some bracing on the power steering pump.

Zack, I found one out in the shop too, so it's going in in the next day or two, thanks for the offer.
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:03 PM   #141 (permalink)
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I have a stealth power steering cooler...

I mounted the cooler right behind the left headlight infront of the round vent inlet.

No one will ever find it...
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Old 03-07-2010, 06:24 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Well, I've been tweeking, tightening and greasing, and it feels good. I tested a rock to see if it could hold the front of a Scout





Then I checked to see if it could hold the back as well.





Funny, I have more flex in the front than the back

I'm running 14" 275# coils on the rear, and I might pick ou some 16" 275# and level out the rig a bit and get a little more droop.

I have an issue on the tie rod and drag link that I need to address...

This pic is the desired position for the block the drag link connects to, nearly verticle.



And here is a self adjusting position...




I'm thinking this self adjustment manuver is going to result in tearing the fabric on the driver's seat from the repetitive sphincter clinching.

What about going to rod ends instead of TREs on the drag link and tie rod?

The big rotation is in the passenger side TRE. I think a single shear rod end attachment would allow the desired movement without the nasty little change in geomentry in the middle of a turn.

Any comments?
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:20 PM   #143 (permalink)
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That's just a feature of that style of steering.

Solve it by going high-steer all the way to the knuckle.
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:02 PM   #144 (permalink)
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that's just a feature of that style of steering.

Solve it by going high-steer all the way to the knuckle.
x2...
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:33 AM   #145 (permalink)
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That's just a feature of that style of steering.

Solve it by going high-steer all the way to the knuckle.
I can see moving the drag link to the knuckle would help, but I don't see how high-steer would be an impact.

The issue with the drag link to knuckle was I couldn't get full turning both ways, with this bronco pitman. If I used the Stock Scout II pitman, I get full motion, but the steering geo goes to shit. I think I would have horrible bump steer all of the time instead of random pucker factor when the tie rod rolls.

I think i'd need to find a pitman that is flat and in between the length of the Bronco and SII to get the geometry and full radius.
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:11 AM   #146 (permalink)
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I can see moving the drag link to the knuckle would help, but I don't see how high-steer would be an impact.
It doesn't, now that I looked. Often this style steering is used because someone used a Chevy knuckle with provisions for only a tie-rod, and was too cheap to buy the high-steer arm.

With a SII knuckle, you're good to go.

Quote:
The issue with the drag link to knuckle was I couldn't get full turning both ways, with this bronco pitman. If I used the Stock Scout II pitman, I get full motion, but the steering geo goes to shit. I think I would have horrible bump steer all of the time instead of random pucker factor when the tie rod rolls.
Using the Scout II pitman should have little or nothing to do with bump steer.

The length doesn't matter, just that the draglink is parallel to your panhard.

Quote:
I think i'd need to find a pitman that is flat and in between the length of the Bronco and SII to get the geometry and full radius.
Or go with a high-steer arm that's almost always shorter, and would match the shorter pitman arm.

I'm using a '73 Buick Century pitman arm on mine with a TriCountyGear high-steer arm and I get lock to lock on my Chevy axle.

To high-steer or not in your case depends on whether that would allow the draglink to be parallel to the panhard.

Know that almost every high steer arm you find will be shorter than the stock SII knuckle length, which would probably match the Bronco pitman better.

OTOH, you have Scout knuckles on there, so you'd need to go and trade out for some flat-tops and that's additional expense.

So... consider the SII pitman arm, and bend it if you have to to keep the draglink and panhard parallel.

I suppose if you had to cheat, you could look into some sort of washers or shims to go under the tie-rod ends on the tie rod to minimize the amount it rocks.

Also know that the slop will only get worse as the TREs wear.
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:49 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Try one of these? You'll have to shorten your tierod these are a little longer than the usual TRE, but should help keep your tierod from twisting and draglink from kissing the trackbar.
ES2233L Chevy tie rod end 7/8 18 tpi

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Old 03-08-2010, 02:32 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Try one of these? You'll have to shorten your tierod these are a little longer than the usual TRE, but should help keep your tierod from twisting and draglink from kissing the trackbar.
ES2233L Chevy tie rod end 7/8 18 tpi

Attachment 506484

Attachment 506487
This might be an option...

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Originally Posted by tsm1mt View Post
It doesn't, now that I looked. Often this style steering is used because someone used a Chevy knuckle with provisions for only a tie-rod, and was too cheap to buy the high-steer arm.

With a SII knuckle, you're good to go.



Using the Scout II pitman should have little or nothing to do with bump steer.

The length doesn't matter, just that the draglink is parallel to your panhard.



Or go with a high-steer arm that's almost always shorter, and would match the shorter pitman arm.

I'm using a '73 Buick Century pitman arm on mine with a TriCountyGear high-steer arm and I get lock to lock on my Chevy axle.

To high-steer or not in your case depends on whether that would allow the draglink to be parallel to the panhard.

Know that almost every high steer arm you find will be shorter than the stock SII knuckle length, which would probably match the Bronco pitman better.

OTOH, you have Scout knuckles on there, so you'd need to go and trade out for some flat-tops and that's additional expense.

So... consider the SII pitman arm, and bend it if you have to to keep the draglink and panhard parallel.

I suppose if you had to cheat, you could look into some sort of washers or shims to go under the tie-rod ends on the tie rod to minimize the amount it rocks.

Also know that the slop will only get worse as the TREs wear.
Here is a EB over at Tom's Bronco. I like the stacking option.



And the other side...

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Old 03-08-2010, 02:33 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Try one of these? You'll have to shorten your tierod these are a little longer than the usual TRE, but should help keep your tierod from twisting and draglink from kissing the trackbar.
ES2233L Chevy tie rod end 7/8 18 tpi
I think that'll just lessen the effect, but not eliminate it.

It'll stick rock the tie-rod fore/aft a little. Just not as dramatically with the draglink mounting to the center of the rod, instead of high above.
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Old 03-08-2010, 03:00 PM   #150 (permalink)
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I think that'll just lessen the effect, but not eliminate it.
I agree, this would lesson the leverage and reduce the impact when the tie rod rotates, but not eliminate the problem.

I'm going to do some testing to see if the bronco solution will give me the turning radius and maintain the panhard /drag link allignment. I like the rod ends over the TREs, so well see.
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