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Old 04-21-2013, 06:32 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Cool

Looking good. Iv built 100's of 231's, 241's, 242's, etc, but I'm no help on the electrical.

I can't believe people these days, they will steal anything. In my country, they would be dead.
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Old 04-22-2013, 09:25 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Front is 14" 250 over 16" 350
Rear is 12" 250 over 14" 350.

With the spring rate calculator, it gives it an overall spring rate of 177, which is softer than most aftermarket springs in production.
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:43 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I've got a decent update for you guys! I wrapped up today by getting the final subtle bends in the track bar and UCA, and tacking the frame side UCA in place. The axle is fully located now, and I started having some fun with it

This build gets the same track bar bracket as my 609 build, this gets track bar positioned perfectly, as high as I can get it for stability and roll resistance at speed


I put it as close to the knuckle as possible, full lock things get close together but have plenty of clearance for things to never contact. Actually having the tie rod on the knuckle instead of high steer arm gives us an adjustable drag link, I have it on the inner hole right now for quick steering. I'm going to adjust the steering stops until the u-joints almost bind, so this thing will be able to steer as tight as possible.


Little side project, any of you into volkswagens? I have a friend that is just getting ready to start making narrowed VW beams for various years/models, I've been doing the cad and torchmate work on the bracketry


Back to the WJ, this is before I put slight bends in the track bar and drag link. Both have bends, probably somewhere between 5-10* Just enough, and with 1.5" .250 there's no strength worry.


I went in halves on a used Lincoln precision tig 185 with one of the other guys in the shop, it is fun! I've never tigged before but always figured I would have a good feel for it because of the class I took years ago involving oxyacetalyne welding...I must say it's fun! This is a peice of exhaust tube, the nice smooth section is where I joined with no filler metal, I would definately have to go back over it with a layer of filler but it looked so nice


Anywho here are the pics from the end of today, fully attatched and flexing


You can see the track bar and drag link with the slight bends in this pic


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Old 05-22-2013, 10:51 PM   #29 (permalink)
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I've been making good progress on this thing lately. Let me show you guys what I've been up to.

Geared the front HP44




And built the front 16" coilovers with 16" lower and 14" upper coils.


Made a 3/8" steering spacer and milled the knuckle so the tie rod and drag link nut would not contact


Wrapped up the housing, drilled a hole in the casting for the elocker cables to pass through, painted it and sealed things up.


Things removed for final prep, getting ready to go back in.


Coilovers in place, axle sitting with weight on it with no frame jack stands


New hardware bling

Last edited by AgitatedPancake; 04-30-2014 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 05-22-2013, 10:58 PM   #30 (permalink)
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This axle was apparently hacked together to sell to the owner of this jeep. Apparently one of the axles they used to replace OEM was about 1" longer than it needed to be, so they chopped it off the end (crookedly)


And the seal at one point ran near my right finger. Now it's riding near my left finger, completely off the seal surface.


So I chucked it up in the lathe, extended the seal surface and smoothed the end of the axle shaft.


Painted the yokes and installed new u-joints


New Timken races, bearings and seals for both hubs. New Dorman 610-279 studs for hte hubs, though one hub has apparently been abused more than the other and had a few wallowed out stud holes.




Full lock to factory steering stops, not bad for 37"s and a full bodied rig. Trimming is in order for sure.




Just today I got the jeep set down on it's own weight for the first time. Looks facking mean, and should perform the part. I reinstalled the trans computer, overflow tank and battery, fired it up and turned lock to lock, steering doesn't feel all that bad for what it is.




I've still got to install the 32 spline Advanced Adapters SYE and modify the driveshafts, then this thing is about ready to go!

Last edited by AgitatedPancake; 05-22-2013 at 11:17 PM.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:13 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Man that thing is bitchin looking!
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Old 05-27-2013, 07:36 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Thanks bud. I got the 32 spline SYE installed, driveshafts rebult with new joints all around, Plumbed the front brakes, and almost have the rears plumbed. Need to final install the rear hub nuts and axleshafts, and fix the fawked up front hub nuts that have the locking pin sheared off. Once those small things are done this thing is ready to be driven!
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:14 PM   #33 (permalink)
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No tail stock?
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:09 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Nah, not for that quick job. I had no problem matching the diameter of the factory seal surface and polishing it up to match. Granted by the general rule of thumb I should have needed one but I didn't have any issue.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:37 AM   #35 (permalink)
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What did you end up doing about the crossmember you cut up? Just weld it to the control arm mounts?

sent from my commando
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:51 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Crossmember is still cut up. It's going to get an additional couple bolt holes per side for now, but a new crossmember is in the future.

I plumbed the brakes, rebuilt the driveshafts, installed the AA SYE and went for a quick test drive. The brakes still need another bleeding and the front right caliper bracket has a toasted bolt hole, so a replacement is on the way. The owner will be taking it home this weekend!

Also swapped the new coils onto the rear so the dual rate slider doesn't try to unseat


On the quick test drive I found some rocks. It flexes nice, tires do not contact coilovers in the rear for those who were wondering. It is definately in need of a massive amount of trimming though. Oh and the shocks need to be filled with nitrogen




It's only touching everywhere at the same time haha.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:02 PM   #37 (permalink)
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can you snap some pics of the front coilover mounts?
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Old 06-26-2013, 05:35 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Clean build.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:51 AM   #39 (permalink)
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can you snap some pics of the front coilover mounts?
Upper or lower?
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:39 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Upper please I want to see how they fit in the engine bay.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:09 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I just looked through my pic assortment and didn't see any that could specifically help you, though I know they are around here somewhere. Things are a tight fit under the TCM on the passenger side, and the master cylinder on the drivers side.

Marc did snap some recent pics though, he's heading up to the Rubicon tomorrow.




And a cool droop pic, tires still on the ground
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:02 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Why no protection for the radiator? Slamming that sheetmetal rad support on a rock will ruin your trip in a hurry.
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:01 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Because that radiator, condenser, and lower rad support are not long for this world. We're going to be putting a 5.2 ZJ radiator in like I did in my jeep. Thicker core, but shorter by 3-4" so the lowest part of the frame rails will become the new bottom much higher than it used to be. Once we have the radiator handled, I'll be building tube bumpers with as much clearance as possible.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:06 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:34 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Here are some pictures of the engine bay.

Drivers side is easier to see.



Passenger side. Its hard to see, but its bare metal



View from the top. Its right under the computer.

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Old 07-15-2013, 09:21 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Awesome pics Marc, glad the first trip went so well for ya! The rubicon looks like it's still got some fun sections. Soupbowl has always been a favorite. As soon as my doubler is done, might have to make a trip back out there. I didn't wheel the con last year for the first time in 5-6 years, I was a little disappointed with the stories and pictures I saw of the flattening. Fordyce has still been just as enjoyable though, definitely the next trail you need to hit!
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:01 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Whenever you go out, let me know.

As soon as Joe fixes his toyota, I'll hopefully get some more trips out. I've never taken my jeep to fordyce, but it is an awesome place to wheel.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:06 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Oh, the rambling about to happen:

I'm about to ask a very bad newbie question, and I apologize, but... Why do guys that go heavy duty always make slip yokes go AWAY? Doesn't that limit travel in some way that would be advantageous?

Man, I've been following your various threads for a year or more now. You're like...the ultimate Jeep-world builder because you just plain make things happen.

When you put that ZJ rad in to gain front end clearance do you slice off that little under-piece and replace it with some plate or some box or something? That seems like a pretty easy/great mod for pretty much any WJ looking to get into trouble on purpose.

I'm sure I had more to say but i can't remember now. Reading this entire thread in one sitting has fried what was left of my brain this evening.

AWESOME work.
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Last edited by Ravie; 10-07-2013 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:01 AM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Oh, the rambling about to happen:

I'm about to ask a very bad newbie question, and I apologize, but... Why do guys that go heavy duty always make slip yokes go AWAY? Doesn't that limit travel in some way that would be advantageous?
It is a common thing with most jeeps to do a slip yoke eliminator(sye) it removes the yoke front the transfer case and puts it into a driveshaft so you can run beffier ujoints on both ends. Plus the option of long spline driveshafts.
Hope my 22 hours of being awake answer cleared the question up for ya
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:36 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Nice very nice clean build is thier a current picture of this wj.
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