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Old 09-05-2017, 01:58 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I saw your rig in person this weekend. I was going to stop and take a look but we were on a mission to get back on the trails haha. I think it looks amazing.
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Old 09-05-2017, 04:26 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pennsylvaniaboy View Post
maybe its the boatside or the windshield frame, but that cage looks super tall.
I think it is just the way it looks in photos. Here are some rough measurements.
20" belly height.
29.5" to the top of the boatsides.
45.25" to the top of the door/hip bar.
72.75" to the roof.
The chassis is 52.25" wide at the base of the windshield.


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Originally Posted by BatmanXJ View Post
I saw your rig in person this weekend. I was going to stop and take a look but we were on a mission to get back on the trails haha. I think it looks amazing.
Thanks! It's always more fun out on the trail than being out in the parking lot, lol. We only stayed for the first half of the day and left around lunch time.
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:09 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pennsylvaniaboy View Post
maybe its the boatside or the windshield frame, but that cage looks super tall.
It's because it's so tiny, on 35's, very narrow and has a pretty long cockpit being a 4 seater. It looks right in person. Photos do make it look odd because you think it's so much bigger than it really is.

Look at it on the trailer behind the RZR.

Last edited by Action Fab; 09-05-2017 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 09-08-2017, 12:58 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TMXONR View Post
I think it is just the way it looks in photos. Here are some rough measurements.
20" belly height.
29.5" to the top of the boatsides.
45.25" to the top of the door/hip bar.
72.75" to the roof.
The chassis is 52.25" wide at the base of the windshield.




Thanks! It's always more fun out on the trail than being out in the parking lot, lol. We only stayed for the first half of the day and left around lunch time.
Thanks for the measurements, helps me envision this. Glad to finally see some trail pics and to hear it worked well.


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It's because it's so tiny, on 35's, very narrow and has a pretty long cockpit being a 4 seater. It looks right in person. Photos do make it look odd because you think it's so much bigger than it really is.

Look at it on the trailer behind the RZR.

That definitely puts its size into perspective. I'm still on the fence about buying one of these and this build thread definitely pushes me towards just ponying up for a chassis....
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Old 09-10-2017, 06:38 AM   #55 (permalink)
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This rig turned out great. It's just personal preference, but I think the proportions would be a little better if the belt line ran straight back from the base of the windshield instead of dropping a few inches. As is, it still looks good.

Also, the best option to reduce the heat in the cab during the summer months is to pull those side panels off. That said, I'm looking into that heat wrap you used.
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Old 09-10-2017, 02:36 PM   #56 (permalink)
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This rig turned out great. It's just personal preference, but I think the proportions would be a little better if the belt line ran straight back from the base of the windshield instead of dropping a few inches. As is, it still looks good.
I definitely get what you're saying. But then it would be very difficult to get in and out of. The window openings would be just too small. I just built another buggy with doors that turned out really nice. I could probably raise the belt line and add doors to this chassis if it's something a buyer wanted addressed.
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Old 09-11-2017, 03:34 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
This rig turned out great. It's just personal preference, but I think the proportions would be a little better if the belt line ran straight back from the base of the windshield instead of dropping a few inches. As is, it still looks good.
You're right on the visual styling... but man getting into and out of a low belt line buggy (especially a 4 seater) is sooooo nice. Not only getting people in and out but also reaching over into the thing for gear or whatever. It's one of those trail rig compromises that is very much worth it.
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Old 09-18-2017, 06:32 PM   #58 (permalink)
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This turned out great well done.
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Old 12-18-2017, 07:05 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Time for an upgrade to the brakes.

Over the past month or so, I have started to feel that the brakes could be improved on the buggy. The buggy stopped decently and I never felt like I didn't have enough brakes but there was definitely room for improvement.

The first thing to upgrade was the proportioning valve. I had been running a modded factory proportioning valve with my front/rear discs and WJ booster/master combo. A couple of times, under moderate braking, the rear tires started to lock up. I never lost control but since I drive this on the street, I knew that I had to do something before I got into a panic stop situation. I installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. The adjustable proportioning valve made a difference but then I started wanting even better stopping ability.

I was reading around different forums to see what I could do to improve the factory front brakes and I came upon the “15” Big Brake Kit” post by CobraMarty. CM was able to put together a list of components that allow you to put bigger brakes on a factory axle without having to buy or make a custom bracket. The best part was that the parts list happens to require the older knuckles and I just happen to be using one of the older Dana 30's with the right knuckles.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/15...30-d44-227121/

The post mentions that you will need steel wheels since the new brake assembly requires 14” of space and most aluminum wheels will either be too small or will require a spacer. I measured my wheels (15” Racelines) and the inner diameter measured just over 14”. I figured that with more than 14” the brakes would either fit or I could get by with some slight grinding on the calipers.

Here is the first test fit and you can see that it was tight. There was no interference with the wheel but it was VERY close.



After some grinding, I was able to get a gap between the wheel and caliper that I was happy with.



Here are the rest of the photos that compare the factory brakes vs the new 12” rotors and dual piston calipers.

Old factory setup




New Ford 12” rotors and Grand Cherokee/Durango calipers



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Old 12-18-2017, 07:06 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Here are all of the components that I used. The rotors, calipers, pads, and new banjo bolts came out to around $380. On top of that you will need a 14mm drill bit, M14-1.5 caliper mounting bolts, and M14 washers.






Here are the caliper mounting bolts that I used. I got these from Oreilly's. They are replacement bolts for a 2014ish Grand Cherokee. These bolts come out to 40mm long instead of the 45mm bolts that the parts list in the link above calls for.



I also only used 1 washer at each bolt location between the caliper and the knuckle. Here are a couple of pics to show how far the shorter bolt threads into the caliper.




I have to say that there was a huge improvement with the new rotors. The stops are quicker and when I come to a stop, you can feel a big difference in holding power. I didn't measure stopping distance but I did do a little test on locking up the tires. I have a ball valve plumbed in to hold pressure on the rear brakes, like a parking brake. Another advantage of this is that you can also use it to shut off the rear brakes, like a line lock. To test the braking power, I went to a parking lot, shut off the rear brakes and slammed on the brakes at around 25-30 mph. The results were that the factory brakes would bring me to a stop but did not lock up the tires. The upgraded brakes did lock up the front tires. Now you don't want your tires to lock up because you will then lose control but it is nice to know that the power is there.
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Old 01-26-2018, 10:22 PM   #61 (permalink)
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While building this rig, I not only took photos but I took video of much of the build as well. A year after starting this project, I finally have enough time to begin editing the videos and have started posting them to YouTube. Below are the first 4 and there are many more to come over the next few weeks.








Last edited by TMXONR; 01-26-2018 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:57 AM   #62 (permalink)
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While building this rig, I not only took photos but I took video of much of the build as well. A year after starting this project, I finally have enough time to begin editing the videos and have started posting them to YouTube. Below are the first 4 and there are many more to come over the next few weeks.








Looks like I have some videos to watch when trying to get the kiddos to bed

Thanks for the documentation. Have you been able to take it out lately? Anything you’d change?
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Old 01-27-2018, 04:40 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Looks like I have some videos to watch when trying to get the kiddos to bed

Thanks for the documentation. Have you been able to take it out lately? Anything you’d change?
It has been a few months since I have had it out on the trails.

I have changed a few things recently. I extended the belly pan forward to protect the oil pan. I re-ran the exhaust to route around the front of the oil pan, this was done so that I could run the front part of the belly pan higher and keep everything flat. I also re-did the sway bar link mounts on the rear axle. I had initially placed the axle side mounts below the axle center line, this was dumb on my part because I ended up smashing up both mounts. Now the axle side sway bar link mounts are up high and out of the way.

With all of that being sad, those changes weren't really that big of a deal and were mostly things that I had planned to change anyway, once winter hit.

There is one thing that bugs me and it is something that I have to deal with since I have larger seats with sliders on them. I drive this buggy on the street a lot. With that, I stop at a lot of stop lights. If I am the first person at the stop light, I have to lean over a little to be able to see when the light turns green. I could fix the issue by getting rid of the sliders and making a fixed mount for the seat, but then my wife would not be able to drive it. It would be nice if there was a smaller seat cushion option for the Corbeau Baja XP seats. I really don't want to go cutting up the foam in my cushions and screw something up.
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Old 01-28-2018, 06:36 AM   #64 (permalink)
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I have the same problem in my c6 corvette. Can't see a stoplight when I'm stopped to save my life unless I lean over. I wouldnt worry too much about that. It's a sweet build man.
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Old 01-28-2018, 09:16 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I'm tall and have that problem in pretty much any vehicle. Lol
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Old 01-28-2018, 01:25 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TMXONR View Post

There is one thing that bugs me and it is something that I have to deal with since I have larger seats with sliders on them. I drive this buggy on the street a lot. With that, I stop at a lot of stop lights. If I am the first person at the stop light, I have to lean over a little to be able to see when the light turns green. I could fix the issue by getting rid of the sliders and making a fixed mount for the seat, but then my wife would not be able to drive it. It would be nice if there was a smaller seat cushion option for the Corbeau Baja XP seats. I really don't want to go cutting up the foam in my cushions and screw something up.
Anybody over 5'9" in an early Bronco. You get used to it.
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Old 01-29-2018, 05:17 AM   #67 (permalink)
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The next video is up. This video shows some of the work of putting the front clip on.

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Old 01-31-2018, 03:56 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Part 5 is up. As hinted at in the previous video, this is where I ditch the leaf springs in the rear and start on a 4-link.

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Old 02-05-2018, 05:01 PM   #69 (permalink)
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The next two videos are up on my channel.

The first video covers the completion of the rear 4-link.

The second video covers the installation of the Liquid Iron Industries dual pickup kit for the 15 gallon RCi Fuel cell.




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Old 02-06-2018, 06:29 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Couple of questions:
1) how long are your links
2) with the 20” belly how much up/down travel
3) how high is the roof

Thanks
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Old 02-16-2018, 04:57 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Couple of questions:
1) how long are your links
2) with the 20” belly how much up/down travel
3) how high is the roof

Thanks
The front lower links are 32".
The rear lower links are 26"

Measuring at the coilovers:
Front up travel is 3.5"
Front down travel is around 5" with the limit straps.

Rear up travel is 4".
Rear down travel is around 6" with the limit straps.

The roof measures 72.75" high.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:28 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TMXONR View Post
The front lower links are 32".
The rear lower links are 26"

Measuring at the coilovers:
Front up travel is 3.5"
Front down travel is around 5" with the limit straps.

Rear up travel is 4".
Rear down travel is around 6" with the limit straps.

The roof measures 72.75" high.
Thanks. I'm surprised to went so short on the real lowers.
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:08 PM   #73 (permalink)
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love it

any plans to replace the front axle?
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:07 AM   #74 (permalink)
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I have a few more videos of the build up on YouTube.


This video covers the shifter installation, starting on the floor structure, and routing the exhaust.



Building custom radiator hoses for the buggy with exhaust tubing.



In this video I go over the progress so far, including an update what I am doing for body panels and a review of the shrinking to-do list.



Installing the gauge cluster, windshield frame, and itty bitty wipers in the buggy.



All of the major fabrication is done and it is now time to tear the buggy back down to finish weld and paint everything.



Reassembly and starting up the engine for the first time since stripping the Jeep apart to start this buggy project.




Quote:
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love it

any plans to replace the front axle?
Replacing the front axle is something that will happen in the future. I will probably wait until I find a good deal on something to replace it with though. If I break this one the replacement will happen sooner.

Last edited by TMXONR; 02-17-2018 at 08:18 AM.
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:34 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Good videos, but what we really want to see are pics/vids of this thing on the trails.

Other than shock length/position is there anything limiting you're up travel? Would the axles, steering, or links start crashing into things if you switched to longer shocks or repositioned for more up travel?

How is the sideways radiator working for you? Did the little fins solve the problem? It was just at higher speeds that the radiator was struggling to keep up, correct?
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