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Old 01-13-2020, 08:14 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Zj build . Looking for input on a few things

I’d like to start by saying I’m new here , also new to the Jeep building area . Current state of the Jeep is iro 3 link front and steering but haven’t got any of that under it yet currently waiting on parts . With that said I’ve pretty much got the back of my Jeep how I want it . Mild stretch without moving the fuel tank up into cab . Iro triangulated 4 link ford 8.8 yada

Now onto the front end I’m basically waiting on my truss for the stock d30 I bought a clapped xj with a old style vacuum actuated HP30 . Also has a 231 I plan on taking as my zj has the all time 4wd .
My questions are should I run the hp and do like a cable system for the locker to replace the vacuum ?
Also I’ll have to trim the cast tab off for the upper arm .
Is it worth any of the troubles or should I just run the low pinion out of my zj ?

My other questions regard steering : I wanna run hydro assist just to move the 35’s without a lot of trouble with that being said I am kinda lost on the steering box I’ve read a few things while searching . J20 box or a waggy box which I have no clue what that is .
Or a xj box since I have the xj for parts should I switch the boxes while attempting to do this assist ? Or am I over thinking and just run the zj box and tap it ? Sorry for the long post . Any input is appreciated thanks
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Old 01-15-2020, 05:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by L_Parker View Post
Iíd like to start by saying Iím new here , also new to the Jeep building area . Current state of the Jeep is iro 3 link front and steering but havenít got any of that under it yet currently waiting on parts . With that said Iíve pretty much got the back of my Jeep how I want it . Mild stretch without moving the fuel tank up into cab . Iro triangulated 4 link ford 8.8 yada

Now onto the front end Iím basically waiting on my truss for the stock d30 I bought a clapped xj with a old style vacuum actuated HP30 . Also has a 231 I plan on taking as my zj has the all time 4wd .
My questions are should I run the hp and do like a cable system for the locker to replace the vacuum ?
Also Iíll have to trim the cast tab off for the upper arm .
Is it worth any of the troubles or should I just run the low pinion out of my zj ?

My other questions regard steering : I wanna run hydro assist just to move the 35ís without a lot of trouble with that being said I am kinda lost on the steering box Iíve read a few things while searching . J20 box or a waggy box which I have no clue what that is .
Or a xj box since I have the xj for parts should I switch the boxes while attempting to do this assist ? Or am I over thinking and just run the zj box and tap it ? Sorry for the long post . Any input is appreciated thanks
I'd just run the low pinion Dana 30. Or bypass the collar on the HP dana 30 by reusing your ZJ passenger side shaft and closing up the hole with a small plate. The vacuum and cable operated stuff blows for the collar on the shaft. LP dana 30 is just fine.

You can get by on a zj pump and steering box with 35s. It will struggle in piles of rocks if you are at a stand still. If you feel the need for assist just tap your current box and add a power steering cooler on the low pressure return side of the plumbing system.
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Old 01-15-2020, 05:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd just run the low pinion Dana 30. Or bypass the collar on the HP dana 30 by reusing your ZJ passenger side shaft and closing up the hole with a small plate. The vacuum and cable operated stuff blows for the collar on the shaft. LP dana 30 is just fine.



You can get by on a zj pump and steering box with 35s. It will struggle in piles of rocks if you are at a stand still. If you feel the need for assist just tap your current box and add a power steering cooler on the low pressure return side of the plumbing system.


Thanks for the reply . I went ahead and moved on and decided to keep the low pinion . Got the truss today plan on welding it on Friday after work and installing the steering . 99 percent sure the cheap ass freedom
Off road trac bar I got isnít gonna fit the bill so I ordered some 7/8 heims and a trac bar bracket from ruff stuff . Not sure how much of a stretch Iím
Gonna be able to get but the plan is to go as far forward as I can without moving the steering box .

Another question I got tho is how do u maintain drop travel while running a short spring ? I wanna be around 4-4.5 ď of ride height . Do I just get some pipe and extend the bump stop ?

Doing this Iíll lose up travel right? So find the happy medium? This part in a sense has me stumped how guys stay low while keeping good travel numbers .


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Old 01-15-2020, 08:55 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by L_Parker View Post
Thanks for the reply . I went ahead and moved on and decided to keep the low pinion . Got the truss today plan on welding it on Friday after work and installing the steering . 99 percent sure the cheap ass freedom
Off road trac bar I got isnít gonna fit the bill so I ordered some 7/8 heims and a trac bar bracket from ruff stuff . Not sure how much of a stretch Iím
Gonna be able to get but the plan is to go as far forward as I can without moving the steering box .

Another question I got tho is how do u maintain drop travel while running a short spring ? I wanna be around 4-4.5 ď of ride height . Do I just get some pipe and extend the bump stop ?

Doing this Iíll lose up travel right? So find the happy medium? This part in a sense has me stumped how guys stay low while keeping good travel numbers .


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Find a taller spring with less stiffness. I think rustys sells springs based on stiffness/spring rate. That will make for a very soft suspension though.

Iíve seen people bolt their coils at the base so they donít fall out when your tire drops a bunch. I think ruffstuff sells coil clamps.

I had limit straps set so the coil wouldnít fall out of its seat.


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Old 01-15-2020, 09:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Zj build . Looking for input on a few things

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keydet15 View Post
Find a taller spring with less stiffness. I think rustys sells springs based on stiffness/spring rate. That will make for a very soft suspension though.

Iíve seen people bolt their coils at the base so they donít fall out when your tire drops a bunch. I think ruffstuff sells coil clamps.

I had limit straps set so the coil wouldnít fall out of its seat.


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Thanks Iíll def check into the coil clamps thatís a cool idea as well


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Last edited by L_Parker; 01-16-2020 at 06:08 AM.
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Old 01-17-2020, 09:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Well got the truss burned on and painted and got the arms turned into adjustable ones and pushed the front end forward finally happy with how the builds turning out . Oh and put some rock lights on it just for the hell and picked up some 2x6 for some
Rock sliders that Iím gonna copy another dudes build and make some boatsides out of 3/16 plate
Of it


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Old 01-20-2020, 12:03 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A little late to this thread. I've been building and wheeling ZJ's since '94 and have figured a few things out along the way.

1.) Polishing the D30. The HP swap is worthwhile because they are dirt cheap (can be had for $100 in my area) and provide substantial gear strength upgrade compared to LP. Don't fawk around with vacuum disconnect crap. Aside from that, throw some alloys in there and run it. Or if on budget the "almost alloy" kits are just about as good. Trusses and c-gussets and such nonsense bring nothing worthwhile to the table. Too late for you.

2.) Steering. The stock box is fine. The most important upgrade is to install a steering box brace. Don't believe this "waggy" upgrade nonsense. Also, don't get sucked in by the "one ton" steering upgrade nonsense. When it comes to steering linkage your best upgrade is a good spotter. I don't care what steering is on there, if you hit shit it WILL bend. I've turned SOLID 1 1/4 cromoly tie rods into horseshoes. The stock V8 linkage is good enough and also cheap enough to carry a spare. Once you ream the knuckles for one ton shit you are screwed. That said, for hydro assist i highly recommend Currie Currctlync with hydro cylinder in place of the stabilizer.

3.) Transfer case. You are on the right track. 231 is the best for wheeling rig. Plenty strong enough, good upgrade possibilities (sye, wide chain, etc) and (most importantly) better ground clearance compared to 242 and 249. Anybody who thinks they need "full time 4wd" is an idiot. The z-bar linkage WILL fawk you. Get Novak cable shifter kit.

4.) Suspension. Sounds like you already have IRO linkages which is fine. Clayton is still the gold standard when it comes to ZJ long arms. Rusty's 5" coils are the best I have found for ZJ. Once you pack on some extra weight with bumpers, winch, skids, etc you will be sitting at 4" ish which is perfect. Bilstein shocks paired with the Rusty's springs provide a great ride on and off road, especially if you can set yourself up with 5" of uptravel. You must install rear limit straps or else you WILL be pulling pistons through the top of your shocks. Limit straps are less critical on the front because track bar and steering typically bind before reaching full extension on the shocks. You can shit can the rear sway bar. It exists to fine tune oversteer in the stock configuration. Once you have lifted there is no meaning.

5.) Tires. 33's are the way to go on ZJ with D30 front and D44/8.8 rear. People can and do wheel 35's on this axle combo but all 35's bring to the table is more frequent breakage.
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Last edited by Technohead; 01-20-2020 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 01-25-2020, 07:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
A little late to this thread. I've been building and wheeling ZJ's since '94 and have figured a few things out along the way.

1.) Polishing the D30. The HP swap is worthwhile because they are dirt cheap (can be had for $100 in my area) and provide substantial gear strength upgrade compared to LP. Don't fawk around with vacuum disconnect crap. Aside from that, throw some alloys in there and run it. Or if on budget the "almost alloy" kits are just about as good. Trusses and c-gussets and such nonsense bring nothing worthwhile to the table. Too late for you.

2.) Steering. The stock box is fine. The most important upgrade is to install a steering box brace. Don't believe this "waggy" upgrade nonsense. Also, don't get sucked in by the "one ton" steering upgrade nonsense. When it comes to steering linkage your best upgrade is a good spotter. I don't care what steering is on there, if you hit shit it WILL bend. I've turned SOLID 1 1/4 cromoly tie rods into horseshoes. The stock V8 linkage is good enough and also cheap enough to carry a spare. Once you ream the knuckles for one ton shit you are screwed. That said, for hydro assist i highly recommend Currie Currctlync with hydro cylinder in place of the stabilizer.

3.) Transfer case. You are on the right track. 231 is the best for wheeling rig. Plenty strong enough, good upgrade possibilities (sye, wide chain, etc) and (most importantly) better ground clearance compared to 242 and 249. Anybody who thinks they need "full time 4wd" is an idiot. The z-bar linkage WILL fawk you. Get Novak cable shifter kit.

4.) Suspension. Sounds like you already have IRO linkages which is fine. Clayton is still the gold standard when it comes to ZJ long arms. Rusty's 5" coils are the best I have found for ZJ. Once you pack on some extra weight with bumpers, winch, skids, etc you will be sitting at 4" ish which is perfect. Bilstein shocks paired with the Rusty's springs provide a great ride on and off road, especially if you can set yourself up with 5" of uptravel. You must install rear limit straps or else you WILL be pulling pistons through the top of your shocks. Limit straps are less critical on the front because track bar and steering typically bind before reaching full extension on the shocks. You can shit can the rear sway bar. It exists to fine tune oversteer in the stock configuration. Once you have lifted there is no meaning.

5.) Tires. 33's are the way to go on ZJ with D30 front and D44/8.8 rear. People can and do wheel 35's on this axle combo but all 35's bring to the table is more frequent breakage.


Thanks a bunch . !


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Old 01-30-2020, 11:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Got the steering mocked up and the pan hard parts . Ruff stuff makes a beefy pan hard bracket !


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