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Old 03-07-2018, 08:14 AM   #976 (permalink)
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Looks freaking darn sexy! makes me want to go wrap my junk (the Jeep, not my "junk") right now How hard was the install?
Thanks Gui! Install took two of us about 6 hours. I did the heating and follow through, buddy did the actual lay down. Use the wrap gloves and the soft squigee if you do it!

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that look really nice
Thank you! Can't wait to see it all done.
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Old 03-11-2018, 07:41 PM   #977 (permalink)
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Rolled the rig outside to clean up the shop. Painted the grill and cowl to match, satin black. Had some decals cut of my small business and attached them. Posted it up at the Moonshiners swap meet and had a great time talking to new people and old friends.









Looks high in this pic, I didn't realize the fuel tank is nearly empty and it's leaning to one side since I had the rear sway bar disconnected.

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Old 03-11-2018, 08:04 PM   #978 (permalink)
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Also, big thanks to everyone that came out and said hi, it was great to meet all of you.

I'll be throwing in some larger shocks soon and hitting the dunes this summer. For now, I wanna wrap up the little things and get it 100% ready. I want to get the tabs renewed and register the Jeep for a few car shows, show it off, keep it clean for a little bit before I thrash on her
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:34 AM   #979 (permalink)
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really nice work man. nice jeep that i bet is fun to drive

the aw4 i got from you is still sitting on my garage floor. hoping to get it in this summer though.
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Old 03-12-2018, 12:37 PM   #980 (permalink)
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really nice work man. nice jeep that i bet is fun to drive

the aw4 i got from you is still sitting on my garage floor. hoping to get it in this summer though.
Thanks man I'm surprised you have swapped it yet! I have a buddy that just asked me yesterday about swapping an AW4, same setup. I wish I had done mine sooner, it was an awesome upgrade that really had the best of both worlds - auto and manual. That AW4 I gave you is still full of fluid IIRC Pretty fresh too, just did the filter and fluid about 250 miles ago.

Bought tabs for the Jeep today
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Old 03-12-2018, 01:02 PM   #981 (permalink)
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...That AW4 I gave you is still full of fluid IIRC Pretty fresh too, just did the filter and fluid about 250 miles ago
sweet! i'll check that off my to-do list then!
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:53 AM   #982 (permalink)
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Just read this thing over the course of 2 slow days at work and I love seeing the progression from budget to baller

I also love the Eatons. Iíd rock a pair if parts for them werenít gold plated and unicorn-ish.

Excited to see whatís next.


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Old 03-15-2018, 02:14 PM   #983 (permalink)
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Just read this thing over the course of 2 slow days at work and I love seeing the progression from budget to baller

I also love the Eatons. Iíd rock a pair if parts for them werenít gold plated and unicorn-ish.

Excited to see whatís next.


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Rags to riches Thanks for reading it, I'm sure there's been a drastic change in how I do things.

The Eatons, especially the front, are popular when people look around the rig. The armor I put on them makes it even more confusing. I was lucky to find some amazing deals and I'm not into them for much more than most people spend on a regular 60. Still plenty of them out there too. I'm designing a fabbed housing for them slowly. Not sure when I'll get to them but I'll just plug away when everything else is "done".

Also made the jump to an entry level plasma table. Just a little 2x2 but it gets my foot in the door. Bought a SWAG Finger Brake at the Swap Meet as well. Giggity
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Old 03-15-2018, 02:17 PM   #984 (permalink)
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Rags to riches Thanks for reading it, I'm sure there's been a drastic change in how I do things.



The Eatons, especially the front, are popular when people look around the rig. The armor I put on them makes it even more confusing. I was lucky to find some amazing deals and I'm not into them for much more than most people spend on a regular 60. Still plenty of them out there too. I'm designing a fabbed housing for them slowly. Not sure when I'll get to them but I'll just plug away when everything else is "done".



Also made the jump to an entry level plasma table. Just a little 2x2 but it gets my foot in the door. Bought a SWAG Finger Brake at the Swap Meet as well. Giggity


There was a set of tabbed Eaton housings for sale by that long ago in the classifieds. Curious who made them (might still be there?)

What brand table did you pick up? Iíve always wanted on but that was back before Torchmate sold out and once they did I put that on the WAY back burner....


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Old 03-15-2018, 02:45 PM   #985 (permalink)
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There was a set of tabbed Eaton housings for sale by that long ago in the classifieds. Curious who made them (might still be there?)

What brand table did you pick up? Iíve always wanted on but that was back before Torchmate sold out and once they did I put that on the WAY back burner....
Yeah, blazerboy made those. He works at Ruffstuff, so he made those housings at work. I gotta make mine in my little 2 car garage.

I bought the Langmiur table, seen here:
Langmuir Systems | CrossFire CNC Plasma Tables

Have a Hypertherm 65 to go with it. Should be all I need for prototyping.
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Old 04-30-2018, 10:16 AM   #986 (permalink)
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Moar updates!

Haven't wheeled since KOH, bums me out. So I'm planning some dunes trips and Cline Butte. Also want to hit Rubicon at the end of summer if I can.

3/4 Link kit is done. Not sure I'll throw it on this rig, I think it will go on the girlfriend's TJ first. That'll be a mild build on 35s with an LS, if it happens.

Started the main light bar for the Vision X lights. Used Motobilt light bar windshield mounts to make it easy for me. These are pretty bright, got a great deal on them (thanks Brandon).

Been driving it a little on the street. I'm looking to eliminate the power steering in the box again to regain some speed. It's not that slow when I'm driving and the RPMs are up, but I can definitely see a big difference at idle. Sometimes even hard to move the tires, I can tell the box is trying to pump fluid but there's just too much volume between the big bore (3.125") PSC box and the 2.25" ID ram. Pump is a 1200X PSC unit, 4.5 GPM at 1600 psi but it's still not enough. I believe the AGR box piston and the PSC piston are nearly identical so I am thinking about swapping pistons. The AGR piston is sectioned for fluid flow to disable the power steering, so I may do that soon.

Also been making these neat little LS pen stands. Super cool and have a bunch left over after I got carried away.
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Old 04-30-2018, 10:58 AM   #987 (permalink)
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I just created an etsy account because of your kit. Never thought that would happen.
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Old 04-30-2018, 11:18 AM   #988 (permalink)
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I just created an etsy account because of your kit. Never thought that would happen.
Don't let the wife find out or you'll have custom throw pillows and a hand-knit dog sweater by the end of the week.
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Old 05-03-2018, 04:01 PM   #989 (permalink)
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Moar updates!

Haven't wheeled since KOH, bums me out. So I'm planning some dunes trips and Cline Butte. Also want to hit Rubicon at the end of summer if I can.

3/4 Link kit is done. Not sure I'll throw it on this rig, I think it will go on the girlfriend's TJ first. That'll be a mild build on 35s with an LS, if it happens.

Started the main light bar for the Vision X lights. Used Motobilt light bar windshield mounts to make it easy for me. These are pretty bright, got a great deal on them (thanks Brandon).

Been driving it a little on the street. I'm looking to eliminate the power steering in the box again to regain some speed. It's not that slow when I'm driving and the RPMs are up, but I can definitely see a big difference at idle. Sometimes even hard to move the tires, I can tell the box is trying to pump fluid but there's just too much volume between the big bore (3.125") PSC box and the 2.25" ID ram. Pump is a 1200X PSC unit, 4.5 GPM at 1600 psi but it's still not enough. I believe the AGR box piston and the PSC piston are nearly identical so I am thinking about swapping pistons. The AGR piston is sectioned for fluid flow to disable the power steering, so I may do that soon.

Also been making these neat little LS pen stands. Super cool and have a bunch left over after I got carried away.
Why not go to a smaller diameter ram for speed?
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Old 05-03-2018, 09:10 PM   #990 (permalink)
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Why not go to a smaller diameter ram for speed?
I can, itís just not as easy as disabling the piston. I am also concerned that the 2.0 ram wonít have enough force to maneuver through rocks. I have a spreadsheet at work that shows the force in the ram, Iíll post it soon.

The other issue is the box puts a ton of stress on the box, frame, and track bar when the force is applied at the pitman arm (power steering) instead of solely at the axle (tie rod hydraulics only). This can lead to frame damage and tweaking as well as a steering box failure.

Hoping to swap pistons and have an answer in the next three weeks. Busy lately with graduations and family in town so it may not happen until the end of the month.
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:40 AM   #991 (permalink)
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Here's a quick shot of the ram calcs for anyone interested. I used two different pressures to show the 200psi impact on forces.

As you can see, the 2" rams would be a significant drop in steering force. Removing the steering force from the P/S box is a huge benefit for not just the steering speed and strength but for the removal of the stress off the frame and box itself.

Looking at the Volumes and Forces, it appears my 2.25" bore ram with 1.125" shaft (highlighted and italicized) is a good middle ground between the huge full hydro rams and single ended ram assist setups. I'll swap in the notched piston and see what happens!
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:17 AM   #992 (permalink)
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Smoked the 3-4 clutch on this 150 mile-old used 4l60e Apparently this trans had a rough life. The fluid was decent when I picked it up, I just expected it to last longer. Picked up a new for a good deal. Going to hot swap and go to the dunes. I have a Corvette servo coming. Thought about a shift kit and 3000 stall converter but I'll wait on those. I'll rebuild this '02 4L60E when I have time in the winter. This winter's Jeep project will be much easier than the previous two. Just going to put in bypasses, rear frame, and TLC. Should be easy, right?

Pics are before and after, same trans (new)
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Old 05-16-2018, 01:29 PM   #993 (permalink)
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When you rebuild it make sure your 3rd accumulator check ball isn't leaking. Often overlooked and a major contributor to 3-4 clutch failure. I decided on my last rebuild to replace it with a 3/8" cup plug. I haven't had a chance to drive with it yet but all my research shows there is no downside to the cup plug and it will last longer than the check ball

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Old 05-21-2018, 11:07 AM   #994 (permalink)
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When you rebuild it make sure your 3rd accumulator check ball isn't leaking. Often overlooked and a major contributor to 3-4 clutch failure. I decided on my last rebuild to replace it with a 3/8" cup plug. I haven't had a chance to drive with it yet but all my research shows there is no downside to the cup plug and it will last longer than the check ball

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Just saw this. I'll look at that when I finally get to building it. I found some small bits in the pan of the "new" 4l60e Hoping it's fine, I don't have time to mess with anything else at the moment. If it fails and I lose the trans again, it will sit until I build this one in the fall. Bummer if that happens, but I'd rather take the Raptor to the dunes and dick around for a weekend than be in the garage hucking around another 4l60.
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:57 AM   #995 (permalink)
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Been driving this on the street a little bit here and there. Took it to the scales and had it weighed. 4500 lbs with me in it, full fuel, but no skid plates. No tailgate (30 lbs) and only had recovery gear in it. Without myself and fuel, Jeep would weigh approximately 4250 with skids bolted back on. I'm pretty happy with that, but I may try to knock off ~250lbs later on.

Here's a breakdown of the potential savings for each item (not their weight, the SAVINGS):

Convert main skid to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert Links to 7075: 20 lbs
Replace tailgate with 6061: 25 lbs
Convert rockers to 6061: 70 lbs
Swap corner armor to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert engine skid to 6061: 16 lbs

This is all based on density, areas, known weights, and first hand knowledge from fellow Jeepers. I don't see links as a worthwhile swap considering I have chromo links. If I swap all that out, I'd save 226 lbs plus the weight of the fuel cell swap that I'd like to do, another 80 lbs if I swapped in an aluminum block LS. Keep in mind, there's no spare tire back there, so that adds ~150 lbs with a mount. If I chop off the rear frame I'd potentially save a little bit more. I think it's possible to make this TJ around 4300 lbs race-ready.

Made up some new rear shock mounts that are 0.75" lower. Should be able to redrill the lower mount and drop it another 0.5". This should get me another ~1.25" in rear uptravel which will help quite a bit in the big stuff. Going to stick with 2.0 C/Os for a while longer. Still need to notch my frame!

Picked up a SWAG finger brake and a Crossfire plasma CNC. Crossfire should be here next month. I'll let you all know how I like it.
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Old 06-25-2018, 11:59 AM   #996 (permalink)
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is that 20 T brake?

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Been driving this on the street a little bit here and there. Took it to the scales and had it weighed. 4500 lbs with me in it, full fuel, but no skid plates. No tailgate (30 lbs) and only had recovery gear in it. Without myself and fuel, Jeep would weigh approximately 4250 with skids bolted back on. I'm pretty happy with that, but I may try to knock off ~250lbs later on.

Here's a breakdown of the potential savings for each item (not their weight, the SAVINGS):

Convert main skid to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert Links to 7075: 20 lbs
Replace tailgate with 6061: 25 lbs
Convert rockers to 6061: 70 lbs
Swap corner armor to 6061: 50 lbs
Convert engine skid to 6061: 16 lbs

This is all based on density, areas, known weights, and first hand knowledge from fellow Jeepers. I don't see links as a worthwhile swap considering I have chromo links. If I swap all that out, I'd save 226 lbs plus the weight of the fuel cell swap that I'd like to do, another 80 lbs if I swapped in an aluminum block LS. Keep in mind, there's no spare tire back there, so that adds ~150 lbs with a mount. If I chop off the rear frame I'd potentially save a little bit more. I think it's possible to make this TJ around 4300 lbs race-ready.

Made up some new rear shock mounts that are 0.75" lower. Should be able to redrill the lower mount and drop it another 0.5". This should get me another ~1.25" in rear uptravel which will help quite a bit in the big stuff. Going to stick with 2.0 C/Os for a while longer. Still need to notch my frame!

Picked up a SWAG finger brake and a Crossfire plasma CNC. Crossfire should be here next month. I'll let you all know how I like it.
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Old 06-25-2018, 01:47 PM   #997 (permalink)
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is that 20 T brake?
Yup, same as this one but older:

https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton...ess-32879.html

And I welded some longer legs on it so I can press together my drivelines
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Old 06-25-2018, 04:16 PM   #998 (permalink)
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Forgot to post these random driveway shots of the mall crawler. Been driving it on the weekends and might put it into a car show soon. Hoping to have my half doors done and on the Jeep with the 3D printed hinges in the next couple weeks. Also hoping to get out to Naches in the middle of July.



My other two projects. The 2008 BMW 135i is getting two new OEM turbos and fluids. 300hp/300ft-lbs from the factory. It's getting a 7" intercooler, a tune, intake, and downpipes next year. Raptor is getting a trans tune and 37s with mid perch. I'll grab some 2.5 4" bumps and fab mounts for it eventually. This is my main DD so not much to change on it to keep it reliable and somewhat of a sleeper for the dunes and whoops runs.


diggin this side profile





Also forgot to post this. 2 degree camber bushings

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Old 06-25-2018, 05:47 PM   #999 (permalink)
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What's the measurement from top of front windshield to ground level? Thanks.
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Old 06-25-2018, 08:10 PM   #1000 (permalink)
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Why the camber bushings?
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