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Old 12-13-2018, 03:56 PM   #1076 (permalink)
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Yeah, pretty damn close but I think it'll work. Had me a little worried

Who's got the best deal on drivelines for us on PBB? Might just cut these down myself for spares and buy new so I can go faster than 70
I just buy these, they are decently cheap and are somewhat local to me so they show up fast.

Jeep 1310 Driveshaft
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Old 12-13-2018, 04:03 PM   #1077 (permalink)
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I just buy these, they are decently cheap and are somewhat local to me so they show up fast.



Jeep 1310 Driveshaft


Damn, I like that


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Old 12-13-2018, 04:19 PM   #1078 (permalink)
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Who's got the best deal on drivelines for us on PBB? Might just cut these down myself for spares and buy new so I can go faster than 70
If you aren't in a hurry I would go with Jess, @onetoncv on here, at High Angle Driveline. He seems to have a VERY GOOD reputation on PBB for quality work. Unfortunately, it might take a while to get the shaft as he is starting a new shop since his original one was in Paradise, CA and burned down.
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Old 12-13-2018, 04:26 PM   #1079 (permalink)
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Lots of folks make driveshafts.

Tom Woods has been my guy. Always got exactly what I wanted, was stupid fast for a mail order shafts, and was less money than my local guy. Plus, when I needed work (changed from D44 to D60s), I sent them back, and they shortened them. I've beat the hell out of my shafts, and never broke.

Also, for what it's worth, Go 1350 joints and give yourself an extra margin of peace of mind.
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Old 12-13-2018, 05:19 PM   #1080 (permalink)
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I just buy these, they are decently cheap and are somewhat local to me so they show up fast.

Jeep 1310 Driveshaft
Wow, that's cheap. I'll have to keep that in mind. I was looking at Adam's Driveshafts too but those look well made and the price is better than any I've seen. Thanks!

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If you aren't in a hurry I would go with Jess, @onetoncv on here, at High Angle Driveline. He seems to have a VERY GOOD reputation on PBB for quality work. Unfortunately, it might take a while to get the shaft as he is starting a new shop since his original one was in Paradise, CA and burned down.
Yeah I saw that on his Instagram. But it looks like he's getting his shop setup again. He knows his stuff for sure. I forgot he was on here, I'll give him a call. Thanks for the reminder.

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Lots of folks make driveshafts.

Tom Woods has been my guy. Always got exactly what I wanted, was stupid fast for a mail order shafts, and was less money than my local guy. Plus, when I needed work (changed from D44 to D60s), I sent them back, and they shortened them. I've beat the hell out of my shafts, and never broke.

Also, for what it's worth, Go 1350 joints and give yourself an extra margin of peace of mind.
Tom woods is pretty good, my last TJ had their SYE shaft. $269 for standard and $299 for HD 1310 shafts. I'd go to 1350 but I like having an easy to replace fuse in the drivetrain. I don't really want to tear down the front hubs/UB on the trail. I'd rather pull off, replace the driveshaft, and keep going. Just preference is all. Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:25 PM   #1081 (permalink)
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Pretty much but I donít have 5 days to wait on shipping and this was free
Ah if it's free then I got ya.

Did the lifters stay up in the block after you spun it around a few times before throwing the wooden dowel rods in? I've seen where some stay up without any issues and others keep on falling down no matter how easy people try to spin the engine over.
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:40 PM   #1082 (permalink)
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The thing Iíd worry about with 1310 is if the front cv goes and takes out the trans.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:13 PM   #1083 (permalink)
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Ah if it's free then I got ya.

Did the lifters stay up in the block after you spun it around a few times before throwing the wooden dowel rods in? I've seen where some stay up without any issues and others keep on falling down no matter how easy people try to spin the engine over.
Yeah it worked decently. I ended up using the H plate as a single spring compressor laid over one side of the head. Worked well. If anyone wants the DXF to cut, let me know. I can also cut them for anyone that wants one for cheap.

edit: Almost forgot your other question - yes, the lifters stayed in the lifter tray after I took off the cam bracket and spin the cam a few times. The wood dowels are $1 at Home Depot and work great. It's a tight fit. I had to really shove them in there and pray I didn't break one. I wouldn't risk not using the dowels.

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The thing I’d worry about with 1310 is if the front cv goes and takes out the trans.
HEY! Quit bringing up valid points that lead to my anxiety!

I'm going to tell myself that the odds of the CV breaking instead of the joint at the pinion is pretty low. I am thinking it'll be fine. It's a 1310/1350 conversion joint at the pinion so I'm really hoping it grenades before anything. But now I might draw up a shield for the trans plug.

edit: this thread is gonna help me sleep at night:
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...w-38-plus.html
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Last edited by gtxracer; 12-13-2018 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 12-17-2018, 12:42 PM   #1084 (permalink)
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Got the front end buttoned up and ready to have the lower crossmember rewelded. I had a stress crack in the weld around the pass through tube for the steering box shaft. I missed the entire bottom of the tube that connected it so I’m not surprised it cracked. I’ll glue it together this week and paint the exposed tubes. I removed the temporary crossmember and ground smooth all the connections. The 3” flap disks made this quick, not sure how I ever lived without these smaller discs that mount to a die grinder.

I had an issue with the spacing of my Goat Built alternator and TC pump brackets. The tc pump spacing was 1 rib proud of the main pulley so I think I have it fixed. It was pitching belts at higher rpm and I lost a belt at about 60mph on a lakebed last year.

TBSS intake is mounted but is super close to the hood. The TB is actually touching the fiberglass when fully closed. Luckily a nice endmill will fix this with a chamfer

4L80E fits into the TJ trans tunnel after the tab on the drivers side is cut off. Had to replace the internal wiring harness after I accidentally rolled the trans onto the original. They’re about $42 on Amazon if anyone needs one.

Drew up a bracket to mount the Lokar throttle cable for LS1. I’ll snap some pics when it’s done. I 3D printed a test piece that fit really well until I broke it.

Baby steps but almost there. Taking a few days off at Christmas to get all the little things done and get it out for a test drive. Still not sure if I’ll have time to mount my shiny used 2.5x14 bypasses. Fingers crossed!

Edit: last pic is TB good clearance but it’s upside down
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Last edited by gtxracer; 12-17-2018 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:54 PM   #1085 (permalink)
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Looking good man! Itís all coming together. Excited to see those bypasses eventually


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Old 12-17-2018, 04:15 PM   #1086 (permalink)
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Looking good man! Itís all coming together. Excited to see those bypasses eventually


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Thank you! Been chugging along on it. Hoping to make a big push this week and if everything goes to plan I can chop frame after Christmas. Since I've setup shocks about 100 times now, it should go pretty quick.
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Old 12-19-2018, 12:22 PM   #1087 (permalink)
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Been a bit busy. Still a lot to do. Trans is in for hopefully the final time. For anyone that buys a converter from Jakes, there is an allowable gap of .120Ē to .187Ē between the flex plate and converter face prior to installing the bolts. Keep this in mind so you donít panic when everything is bolted together. This came straight from Mike at Jakeís Performance.

Had to beat the trans tunnel a bit but I think everything will fit. Hoping to have the D300 in place tonight. Advance Adapters makes a shorter input retainer for the Dana 300 with a 6209 RS C3 sealed bearing. The only problem with this is the bearing doesnít actually seal with their design. Iím not convinced itís a truly sealed bearing either. So I designed a mod to put a typical seal on the front of the input retainer. It uses SKF 21352 which is a popular trailer axle seal. We had to turn down the input shaft major diameter .005Ē to make a decent seal surface. The seal is a slight press fit into the newly machined retainer but Iíll use sealant on all the surfaces of this retainer. I canít have gear oil in and the trans again.

My old crossmember for the AW4 fits pretty well for the 4l80e so Iíll be chopping it up to use with a new mount. Time to cut more metal.
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Old 12-20-2018, 04:58 PM   #1088 (permalink)
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TB bracket done, D300 refreshed with new input seal. Ready for this holiday break so I can make some real progress on this.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:16 PM   #1089 (permalink)
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Forgot to show you guys the real goods

3D printed dies for the finger brake...these worked GREAT and I can't believe how well they handled the shop press. Carbon fiber nylon filament. I'll be cutting gooseneck male dies later on with the cnc plasma.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:18 PM   #1090 (permalink)
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And made a few shock shaft clamps for a buddy. These should work pretty well for the 1.625" shock air shocks he's gotta take apart. Also showing the result of the above dies after they came out of the press.
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Old 12-20-2018, 06:55 PM   #1091 (permalink)
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Man you have all the cool tools.


Love it.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:29 AM   #1092 (permalink)
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bad ass

what version of the swag bender is it?
i saw your link mounts in other thread, and you really do nice work
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:22 AM   #1093 (permalink)
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Man you have all the cool tools.


Love it.
Thanks, it's a good combo to have! If only I could get more time in a day now.

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bad ass

what version of the swag bender is it?
i saw your link mounts in other thread, and you really do nice work
It's the swag finger brake kit for the 20t press.

Thanks bud
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:33 AM   #1094 (permalink)
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I put the sealed bearing on the input of my 300 also. Instead of the AA retainer, I just machined down the factory one. I too noticed that bearing won’t completely seal the case as the bearing is a light press fit. I RTV’d the OD of the bearing and will hope for the best. I like your modification to fit the lip seal. Is there still a flange in the retainer to take the bearings thrust loads? I think there is but couldn’t tell from the pictures.
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Old 12-21-2018, 10:54 AM   #1095 (permalink)
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I put the sealed bearing on the input of my 300 also. Instead of the AA retainer, I just machined down the factory one. I too noticed that bearing wonít completely seal the case as the bearing is a light press fit. I RTVíd the OD of the bearing and will hope for the best. I like your modification to fit the lip seal. Is there still a flange in the retainer to take the bearings thrust loads? I think there is but couldnít tell from the pictures.
This exactly what I did and never had a problem had it apart 2-3 times.
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Old 12-21-2018, 11:16 AM   #1096 (permalink)
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I put the sealed bearing on the input of my 300 also. Instead of the AA retainer, I just machined down the factory one. I too noticed that bearing wonít completely seal the case as the bearing is a light press fit. I RTVíd the OD of the bearing and will hope for the best. I like your modification to fit the lip seal. Is there still a flange in the retainer to take the bearings thrust loads? I think there is but couldnít tell from the pictures.
Thanks! Yeah this should be double sealed now. I did the same as you with RTV on the bearing OD. Itís a very light press fit that I could do with my hands. There is a flange inside to take the thrust load. There are also grooves for a snap ring but they didnít supply one and I donít recall having one. I put it back in without the snap rings since it had the forward wall still. Thereís enough meat to turn down a .150Ē deep counterbore into the front of the retainer housing. See my pic below.

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This exactly what I did and never had a problem had it apart 2-3 times.
Good to know!!!
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:10 AM   #1097 (permalink)
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Drag link

I know it was a while ago but how did you bend your drag link? 1.5 die? I want to put a similar bend in mine and wondering if I could get away with 1 3/4 die.
Iíve also read about taking a piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall, bending 180 and cut it in half to make an insert, the id being 1.5.
Thanks
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Old 12-24-2018, 08:21 PM   #1098 (permalink)
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I know it was a while ago but how did you bend your drag link? 1.5 die? I want to put a similar bend in mine and wondering if I could get away with 1 3/4 die.
Iíve also read about taking a piece of 1 3/4 .120 wall, bending 180 and cut it in half to make an insert, the id being 1.5.
Thanks
I used the method with the 1-3/4x.120 wall insert and it worked very well. Using a larger die without the spacer will crush the tube and make it extremely weak. Make sure youíre watching the final OD so itís not ovaled.
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Old 12-24-2018, 08:27 PM   #1099 (permalink)
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Stock TJ pedal?
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Old 12-24-2018, 10:28 PM   #1100 (permalink)
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Stock TJ pedal?
Yup, stock pedal that I may have modified a bit to use the Lokar LS1 throttle cable. Iíll need buttons screws to keep it off the hood.

Cut out a crossmember to trans mount. Still need to finish it up. Iíve been busy making a bed for my nephew and cut a few gifts too.

Sent my injectors through the ultrasonic cleaner at work. I bought a complete spare set for $40. Shaved the PTM throttle body for the hood with a huge chamfer. Picked up this shorty style 4l80e dipstick off eBay. Figured itís essier to reach down and check fluid every once in a while than to fish it through the engine bay. I was planning to run the Lokar dipstick but everyone on LS1tech said it makes filling the trans an hour long ordeal.
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Last edited by gtxracer; 12-24-2018 at 10:32 PM.
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