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Old 04-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Started reinforcing the driver-side bedside with 1/8" plate.





I'm starting to get the hang of using my new toy as well. Cuts are coming out much cleaner. It's a Hypertherm PowerMax 30 along with cart and filters that were a side project last month.

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Old 05-02-2013, 07:17 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Still fitting the bed to the modified frame and doing bodywork on the bed. The stance is too tall right now. I used LJ Rubicon springs, so I'm going to swap in some normal TJ 2.5L springs instead (once I find some cheap enough). That will take it down at least an inch or more hopefully. I still have to add the fuel tank, spare tire, cage, and tailgate. Hopefully that will make it sit a little lower as well. Those tires are 31s and the plan is for 35s.

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Old 05-04-2013, 07:04 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Small progress. I finally finished fitting the bed to the frame, so it is sitting in the correct location now. I just have to add more mounting points and supports underneath. I started armoring the lower panels, cut off some excess of the rear frame rails, and prepped it for some bodywork. I pulled the springs and it is sitting at full bump in this picture. I may have to modify for more uptravel/lower stance later, we'll see.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:27 PM   #54 (permalink)
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wow if you would have put that much work into a toyota truck it would flex much better and you wouldn't have that weak 231 to deal with.

Also they can handle 37s no problem.

Those are the reasons why I got rid of heeps
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:43 PM   #55 (permalink)
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And it would look like every other Toy that someone just threw tires and other parts at without any real work or character.

Sweet project, I'm still following and I'm sure there are others that can appreciate your work without telling you to buy something else.
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Old 05-05-2013, 07:26 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Love it! I'm gonna build one of these one day!
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:31 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Not sure how brand matters when building a custom suspension/custom frame rails. As for the 231, I've never had a problem with it or seen anybody else with me on trail runs break one (you can obviously find broken pics of anything on the web). My biggest problem with it is the 2.72 ratio since I am currently running the 2.5L engine. But with the 4-gear planetary and wide chain out of an S-10, and the AA SYE kit installed, it has always been stout enough.

I enjoy building stuff and wheeling it, so it's fun for me either way. I wheel a '93 Land Cruiser right now while I'm working on this, but I try not to get too extreme with it because I don't want to damage the body.

Since the metal work on the bed should be done within the next 2-3 weeks, I've started researching body work so I can order what I need ahead of time (very little is available locally). I've never done any body work, but from my reading it looks like I'll probably use Evercoat Quantum1 as the filler. Seems like a lot of body guys prefer it, less pinholes, more time to work it for large repairs, etc. Unless I find something better.

As you can see in the last picture, I have a gap between the two panels from a poor cut. The upper and lower portions of the bed have 1/8" steel that they're welded to. The middle section will get a piece of sheet metal behind that gap that each panel will be welded to.
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:26 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Finished the body filler on one outer bedside panel. Next I need to figure out which primer to use and then start on the other side. You can't tell from the picture, but it turned out pretty straight. The main thing I wanted was to hide the seams from the two cuts.

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Old 05-15-2013, 08:08 PM   #59 (permalink)
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very cool build
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Old 05-16-2013, 08:18 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I ordered up some epoxy primer. I already have the paint gun. From what I've read, I probably should have sealed the bare metal with epoxy primer BEFORE using body filler, then done body filler, and either a 2K (2-part) urethane primer or another 2K epoxy primer. Epoxy primer is more durable, but harder to sand and shape than a 2K urethane primer. The Evercoat Quantum1 filler I used is supposed to have corrosion protection too, so I'm planning to just use the epoxy primer over the filler on the passenger side. When I do the driver side, I'll seal the bare metal with primer, then use body filler and seal again. So much work and money for what will end up with a low-dollar satin olive green paint job. I don't want to spend the time or money for show-quality paint though since it's going to get scratched up on the trail. I just want a durable finish so it doesn't start rusting right away and to save me work down the road.
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:37 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I think you are going to need to change how the shocks are mounted. As soon as you articulate the rear it will twist on the shock mounts and snap them off the shock body eventually (ask me how I know!).

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Old 05-31-2013, 11:20 PM   #62 (permalink)
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I agree about the shocks. I noticed when flexing it that it maxes out the misalignment available in the bushing. I'll save that for a later project down the road though. I need to finish enough to get it driveable, then I can go back and do small projects to tweak and refine it. I'll probably raise the upper mount and put it into the bed at the same time and just build it for a 14" shock.

I have been making small progress, but the bodywork is taking me a lot longer than expected. Here are some recent photos.









I've read that to get the best look with bodywork, you butt weld the sheet metal, then grind the welds down. I'm using patch panels above the butt-welded pieces as well for extra strength, then using the body filler to make it look right.

I swapped in some 2.5L TJ springs instead of the original LJ Rubicon springs. I can't notice a difference in height though, so I'll try some coilover springs next. My brackets accept 2.5" diameter coilover springs as well. Anybody know the stock spring rate for rear TJ coils? 160 lb/in?
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:21 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I think the MJ is the coolest looking small pickup out there. Good job on the build and I agree to many "yotas" look alike with nothing special at least your making your MJ unique in sense it will be its own look and character.
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:10 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Progress has been painstakingly slow due to lack of motivation. I got most of the bodywork done and shot the primer. I'm sanding the primer now, and have to do some final touch-ups on the bodywork, then primer again and paint/bedliner. I have an RCI 2171A 17-gallon fuel cell coming today.





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Old 08-22-2013, 06:27 PM   #65 (permalink)
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it's gonna look badass when done
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:37 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Nice work, the bed came out really nice.
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:54 PM   #67 (permalink)
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if you havent named the truck yet, may i suggest 'Spock'? it takes the spo- from sport and the -ck from truck, just as youve done by bobbing the bed lol.


in all seriousness, i love this build. very cool stuff.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:33 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I briefly entertained the idea of putting SHORTRUCK on the side, but decided it wasn't funny enough to leave on there long term.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:32 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I haven't had much free time and I've been burned out, so I took it to a local fabricator for some work.

Roll bar with a slight radius on the top bar to match the profile of the truck. Connects to rear bumper. Tailgate will be notched to clear the bars later so it can still be used.


Fuel tank, roll bar, and rear bumper. Tank with pump inside and everything is wired up. I still need to figure out the resistance changes necessary to make the sending unit work with my gauge as it doesn't read correctly. Rear bumper will be modified with some rings to hang shackles off of and with a 2" receiver built in.





Exhaust routing. No cat, just a cherry bomb turbo muffler.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:58 PM   #70 (permalink)
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So no more tailgate? Are you going to tie the bedsides to the cage so they don't rip at the floor?
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:01 PM   #71 (permalink)
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^^^^
Quote:
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Tailgate will be notched to clear the bars later so it can still be used.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:11 PM   #72 (permalink)
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The front bars of the cage will have plates underneath welded to a tube going directly to the frame.
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:04 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Welding up a receiver hitch. Still need to add some reinforcements going back to the frame.





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96 4Runner, D44 SAS, ARBs, 35s

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Old 11-01-2013, 06:15 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Working on little stuff that takes a lot of time. Where the roll bar attaches to the bed was not flat underneath. I'm using spacers for each bolt and making it a flat surface that can be sandwiched without crushing.

Started like this


And ended up like this


The plate on the bottom that bolts up will have the nuts welded to it for easy installation and will have a tube welded to it that carries the load down to the frame.
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Old 12-15-2013, 01:53 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Got the bed painted and the u-pol raptor bedliner in. Added more attachment points for the rear bumper. I had ACL surgery four days ago so any progress is awesome. I just have to create the receiver attachment to the frame, then pull it to paint the bumper, and reassemble the rest.





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