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Old 12-16-2013, 01:15 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Love the rear link crossmember
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:26 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Where did you get the fuel tank? Does it use the stock fuel pump (efi?)?
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:06 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Thanks. Fuel tank is an RCI 2161 modified to use a readily available in-tank fuel pump spec'd for a Chevy V8 I think. Pic below of the part number.



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Old 12-17-2013, 05:47 AM   #79 (permalink)
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How hard is that Liner? I assume it is not soft like rhino? Looking great! Jake
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:32 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Not really soft, just grippy, lots of traction. I like the texture, time will tell if it's durable, but I've read a lot of good reviews and it was a royal pain getting some of it off that ended up accidentally on there as overspray.
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:27 AM   #81 (permalink)
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If I were to accidentally drag my knuckles across it loading something would it remove skin?
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:48 AM   #82 (permalink)
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I have had the U-pol raptor in my tj for 3years and it is great stuff, not going to rip the skin off your knunckles and you can repair it at home if it gets damaged or you change your floor. I would do it again in a heartbeat.

The mj is looking great.
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:36 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Agreed, not going to rip your knuckles. Had to use a screwdriver against the edge of a hole in the bed floor today to pry the wires and fuel lines through and it didn't chip off.
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Old 12-24-2013, 07:28 AM   #84 (permalink)
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been a huge fan of these trucks since I was a kid.....this one is going on nicely....good job
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:36 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Been working on small stuff since getting back from vacation. The BTF coil mounts are supposed to work for rear TJ springs, or 2.5" coilover springs. I ordered some QA1 10" 150 lbs/in rate springs to lower the rear a little. When I went to install them, I noticed that the huge weld beads interfered with where the springs seat. So I had to spend time grinding them down. The BTF coil retainers didn't work well for the smaller springs either, so I had to build my own. I also tried to come up with a simple bumpstop solution inside the spring, but failed. Only a wrench can fit between the coils now, not a socket, so that limits what I can do inside the coil. Any ideas? I can always build a separate bumpstop outside the coils, I was just looking for something simpler. I may just cut a hockey puck down and drill a hole so I can screw it onto the remaining portion of the stud showing.



Almost finished reinforcing the bumper/receiver to frame mounting.



Since my bedsides are formed 1/8" steel, I wanted to tie the roll bar into them.



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Old 01-17-2014, 01:07 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Lot of stuff to like about this build. 2.5 liters of fury yeah!

If they have the gears they will do whatever. Nice fab work man
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:50 PM   #87 (permalink)
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A huge snowstorm gave me a couple extra days off, so I was able to get something done.

I installed the 10" 150 lbs/in coilover springs a while back to get a lower stance. Stance was perfect, but the coils were too short and it would bottom out quicker than I wanted it to. I couldn't fix it with the existing frame because if I cut it higher above the coil mount there wasn't enough frame steel left. I wanted to cut higher than what is shown in the photo.



I had previously planned on plating the frame some more and I could have cobbled something together, but I decided to just cut off the back part of the frame and rebuild it with 3" square .180 wall tube. I kept the front two bolts of the bed mounted to the frame, supported the rear of the bed with a hi-lift jack to keep it in the proper position, then used the bed to position the new frame rails. The new frame rails will be welded to the rear bumper and I'll add some additional support/crossmembers to stiffen the frame and strengthen the receiver. I slid the 3" square tube into the old frame, plug welded it, and welded it along the edge as well. I also overlapped a bottom section of the old frame and welded it up. I planned to redo the shock mounts to change the orientation, so that will get done as part of this as well.










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Last edited by cooleysix; 12-12-2014 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:00 PM   #88 (permalink)
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My son has had 2 MJs I always wanted one but with 4 in the family and 2 labs just couldnt wheel it much.He got out of the wheelin thing for now and sold them.Ive been diein to buy one and just do a slow build drive it PT.I have kept some of the rare parts we aquired over last few years just itchin to use them.Looks good man bed bob definitely be on top of my list.Jake look into Monstaliner best ive ever used wont tear you up and you can wipe it down to a bright finish esp if you roll it on.Tons of colors and they make a rust stopper called chassis saver its like por15 on steroids.Get with Eric hes the owner (pirate vendor) Great guy bent over backwards for me in the past even when it was my fault.
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Old 02-27-2014, 07:39 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Adding some reinforcement to the new frame rails. Receiver is triangulated, extra plate will be added where it drops down for the bumper, an extra square crossmember has been added welded to the cab that will tie in to the frame rails, the upper control arm mounts, the roll bar, and eventually to the rock sliders/boatsides. I also added two mounting spots for additional bed mounting points.





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Last edited by cooleysix; 12-12-2014 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:11 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Great build so far! Just one question for you though. Do you plan on replacing your bolts when you're done with the build? The reason I'm asking is because you have some low carbon bolts (shear off pretty easy), some grade 5 bolts, some grade 8 bolts, and they all seem to be mixed up.

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Old 02-28-2014, 02:30 PM   #91 (permalink)
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If you're talking about the small 5/16 bolts that held the bumper/receiver to the frame, I had planned to upgrade those to Grade 8 later. I used them to set everything up late one night after the stores were closed. In the end I ended up cutting the rear frame off again and just welding the bumper/receiver to the frame so those bolts don't exist on the truck anymore.
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:50 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Done reinforcing the roll bar mounting area, the rear bumper attachments, and grafting in the new square crossmember between the cab and the rear frame rails. Notched the cross member so the exhaust would clear, re-attached the exhaust hanger. Working on shock mounts now, then on to re-mounting the brake line.



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Old 04-01-2014, 12:12 PM   #93 (permalink)
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I have more finished pictures on the camera at home I'll post up later, but I drove it to work today and got a chance to flex it out and see how everything looks. No joints binding and the new shock orientation works much better. The bushings are barely deflecting at full flex now. Axle shock mounts hang down more than I'd like, but I can live with it for now. I didn't feel like cutting the bed floor to mount the shock higher, and I didn't want to use a shorter shock. These are 10" travel Ranchos that I already had.







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Old 04-01-2014, 05:32 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:56 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Looks good
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Old 04-06-2014, 04:32 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Finally took it out for a shakedown run yesterday. Suspension works great, a little bouncy side to side and the rear ends up doing more work than the front, both of which would be fixed by a sway bar, so I may look into that down the road. I tackled some steep, tall ledges at the end of the day and made it up, but burned up the clutch disc. I'm running a 2.5L engine with an AX-15 behind it, so I used an '84 4-cylinder 4-speed camaro clutch disc when I did the swap a few years ago. I'll have to research heavier-duty clutches since the engine revs now and it doesn't go anywhere. I'll fix it after the deployment and then start on a front axle project. I have an early 90s Ford Kingpin 60 in the garage waiting, and a waggy width Ford HP44 so I can choose which route to go then. Tire size will eventually be 35s or 37s.









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Old 03-01-2015, 09:06 AM   #97 (permalink)
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Back from deployment, day one was spent organizing the garage and getting all my tools back out, here is day two:


Dana 30 is out, here is one of my helpers.


My D60 is a DRW. Got some SRW hubs that I'll be swapping in instead. The rotor is rusted solid to the DRW hub and the bolts won't budge with my impact gun. I'm going to get new rotors anyways so I guess I'll just leave it. I noticed there are two different parts for SRW rotors and DRW rotors. Do I just need to use DRW rotors since that is how my axle started life? I assume the rotors would have to stay the same because of the caliper position on the axle.

The axle is in much worse condition than I could have possibly guessed. Looked clean from the outside and inside the diff, but after pulling off the passenger side outers there is a lot of damage/rot.


Here you can see what is left of the PS lower kingpin bearing. The cage had rusted away and the individual tapered roller bearings fell out caked in dried grease/rust/mud. The lower king pin cap was fused/rusted to the bearing as well, and I had to beat it hard enough trying to get it off that it deformed one of the bolt holes, so that is getting replaced as well once it's off. I'll try heating it with the torch this week to see if I can get it off the rest of the way.


If you look close you can see the crack running down the kingpin itself.


This is what the bearings and pieces inside the hub looked like.


The spindle looks rough too, but I'm planning to reuse it. I figure as long as I clean up where the seals ride and where the bearings seat it should be good. If somebody thinks otherwise let me know.
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:06 AM   #98 (permalink)
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For rotors you can use SRW. Only difference is the hole size for the lugs. Most just drill out the DRW rotors lug holes to SRW size when converting.
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Old 03-01-2015, 10:08 AM   #99 (permalink)
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BTW, welcome back.
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Old 03-03-2015, 02:46 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Put a flywheel weight on that 2.5. Tri County gear still makes them. I have one on my 2.5/5 speed with 4.88s in the diffs. Made a noticeable difference at off idle crawling.
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