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Old 03-04-2015, 06:40 AM   #101 (permalink)
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I put the flywheel weight on years ago, it was a nice addition. Yesterday I drove down to Wichita and picked up four 37" BFG Baja T/A tires from Andy at trailworthyfab. Great guy to work with.



While in Wichita, I also picked up a Sterling 10.25 out of a 93, so it has the upgraded yoke already.



When mounting H1 wheels, the o-ring seems to expand as soon as I pull it off and then I can't get it back on because it is too long. Is there some trick to it? I was told that they expand for some reason so I ordered four new ones. I also read about some people cutting the o-ring and gluing it back together. I did that tonight just to see if it would hold air. It is so far.

I tried removing the kingpin cone today but only managed to break the 3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter where it necks down. Ordered a different 7/8 hex driver socket, this time in 3/4 drive.

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Old 03-09-2015, 10:09 PM   #102 (permalink)
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I cut the inner c off with the tube still in it, then had to drill holes in the tube piece to get it out. My HF 12-ton press wouldn't budge it otherwise. Finished shortening the D60 long side to '79 width and welded the inner knuckle back on. I shortened the width from 69.25" to 67.13" to match the track width of the Sterling 10.25 going in the rear. I don't like how the '79 shaft necks down though. I'll get a chromoly shaft to replace it at some point unless I can find a machine shop to cut and respline the 91 shaft for a reasonable price.







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Old 03-13-2015, 12:19 PM   #103 (permalink)
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This axle is the worst I have ever seen. Decided to order two new spindles after all. Once I cleaned up the existing ones I just decided it wasn't worth the risk of having to open the axle right back up if it was leaking or if water got in. One of the locking hubs was damaged too, along with most of the internal hardware.

I have a question about the SRW rotor/hub versus the DRW setup. On the DRW setup, the rotor bolts to the hub (hub is threaded). How do the SRW hub and rotor attach to each other? I see the SRW hub is not threaded. Do the lug studs just press through the rotor into the hub, with the knurled section biting into the hub, and hold them together that way?

I got the LCA brackets off finally, still have to get the UCA brackets off and plate the frame. I did this once about 10 years ago on a Cherokee, I hate removing those brackets and plating the frame. I'll weld up the open seam before covering it up with additional plating.





Axle BOM just because this is as good a place as any to store it for easy access. There is a change with a lot of parts whether it is pre 3/91 or post 3/91.



I pressed out the u-joints and connected my 79 long-side shaft to one of the stubs. Only one of the three joints I have is good, and they were all seized in the ears pretty good. Some of the ears were galled while trying to push the joints out, and I had to use a die grinder to clean up the inside of the ears before the cap would push out. I think I may tack weld the caps in just to avoid any concern about the ears not being as tight around the caps now. The other two were burned up with no grease, so I ordered another forged Spicer 5-806x joint.
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Old 03-14-2015, 10:27 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooleysix View Post
I have a question about the SRW rotor/hub versus the DRW setup. On the DRW setup, the rotor bolts to the hub (hub is threaded). How do the SRW hub and rotor attach to each other? I see the SRW hub is not threaded. Do the lug studs just press through the rotor into the hub, with the knurled section biting into the hub, and hold them together that way?
The studs will press in and hold the rotor on.
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:53 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Got the old Ford 8.8 pulled today, removed all brackets, cleaned up axle for resale, and cleaned up the Sterling 10.25 a bit more in preparation for positioning it under the rig and locating/welding on the brackets.



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Old 03-23-2015, 05:07 PM   #106 (permalink)
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Got the rear axle truss and upper control arm mounts in. I took a picture just to see what it would look like with the rear tires on, but the tires wont suck down all the way to the mounting surface, I think the hub is slightly too big near the mounting surface. Has anyone seen this before on a sterling axle with h1 wheels? Also, I read on several forums that Sterling SRW axles were 67.25" wide unless I am remembering incorrectly. Mine seems to be around 65.5. Maybe I'm mixing them up and the dually rear was wider. I may just have to run wheel spacers since I was planning on it being 67.25 wide.



Edit: I found that Chevy hubs are 4.61" in diameter and Fords are 5.15". It's hard to see in there but I'd guess the H1 rims are pretty close, maybe within a 1/4" of the diameter needed. I'll have to measure everything with the calipers myself tomorrow.
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Old 03-29-2015, 02:50 PM   #107 (permalink)
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There are two lips on the Sterling axle hub, the one furthest in is for the drum or disc, the other is for the wheel. I bored out my 24-bolt H1 wheels using my die grinder so they would fit over the Sterling hub. It was about 1/16". The wheels fit just fine over the front D60 hubs without modification.


You can see the final track width below. I will wait until the front is complete and see how the two widths compare before I decide whether or not to run spacers in the rear.


Just need brake lines and shock mounts on the rear axle. Used Ruffstuff disc conversion brackets with 82 K20 calipers and pads and E-350 rotors.



Can't wait to test out the departure angle. All of my previous vehicles have had a lot of rear overhang, and were much lower.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:41 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Been working on this each day when I get off work, slow going. Almost done with the passenger side.



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Old 04-10-2015, 06:24 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Finished plating the frame for now, at least enough to get the axle under it. I used 3/16" on the inside and bottom of the frame and 1/8" on the outside, except for the span where the track bar is and I used 1/4" on that stretch.

Got the 5.38s and Grizzly locker setup in the Dana 60.





It came with a 1330 yoke, but where the seal rides was pitted and it would have leaked. I could have used a speedy sleeve to fix it but just used a new flange from WFO Concepts instead that will allow me to use a companion flange with it. I already have 1310, 1330, and 1350 companion flanges that I've collected from junkyards over the years, so I have options.

I also built a truss/bridge out of 3/8" plate to have convenient mounting options for the upper control arms. Not very aesthetically pleasing but it should do the job. Debating changing it, we'll see.



Sealed it up with a new DIY cover from BTF.

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Last edited by cooleysix; 04-10-2015 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 04-11-2015, 03:06 AM   #110 (permalink)
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I really like your build man! Just think if you had started with a Boeing you could have the much flex... and it would fly!! sorry had to. But seriously cool truck man. cant wait to see it with the new axles and meats!
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:41 AM   #111 (permalink)
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If I could do it all over again I'd just start with a wrangler and save a bunch of time on the body mods, but I've modified this little by little since 2007 when I needed a pickup for a sign business I had. Oh well, it's fun tinkering and I enjoy building it, but I'm ready to drive it and stop building for a while. I have a trip to Moab planned for late May/early June. The goal is to flat tow this there with my Land Cruiser and wheel them both.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:02 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Back at work full time now so the build has slowed. I finished assembling the Dana 60 and while positioning the axle, I noticed I'd have to push it further forward than I wanted to in order to run the double-sided high steer arms. That would involve repositioning the steering gear, lengthening the steering shaft, etc. I'd rather not do the extra work and don't really want to push it forward any more than is needed to clear the foot well with the 37s. So I called partsmike and they're going to swap the arms for me. I'll be running the tie rod in the front instead.

As far as packaging the lower control arms, there is no way to get everything I want. I wanted to run the H1 wheels to be narrow (comparatively), have full steering angles, etc. There just isn't enough room. There is not much choice of where to put the driver-side LCA anyways. I guess I'll just tack it all in place once I get time and start cycling it to see if it binds.
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Old 06-27-2015, 11:42 PM   #113 (permalink)
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I couldn't finish the truck in time for my Moab trip, so I got sidetracked and threw a lift on the FZJ80, built a tire carrier for it, and took the family to Moab for a couple weeks. Ran Pritchett Canyon (bad idea in the Cruiser), Moab Rim, Hells Revenge, Kane Creek Canyon, Lockhart Basin, Chicken Corners, Hurrah Pass and several trails in Colorado as well.



















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Old 06-27-2015, 11:46 PM   #114 (permalink)
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I'm back to making slow progress on the truck again. Got the LCA's built and tacked in place. I don't like how low the mounts hang but there didn't seem to be room to inboard them higher and I want to keep them as parallel as possible. They're 25" long and the axle has been pushed forward several inches. Wheelbase is at 105", current track width is around 72", and roof height is 72" as well. Might go wider in the future for more stability.



I redid one of the rear UCAs because they had too much thread exposed. I'll get to the other eventually.



I pulled the front bumper off, most likely for good. I will probably cut out the front crossmember at some point and build a hidden mount for a winch, then a front bumper. Here's what it looks like now, this should be the approximate ride height.

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Old 06-27-2015, 11:50 PM   #115 (permalink)
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I've always had a 60 cf cylinder for welding gas, but nobody local carries those anymore, just 40 or 80, so I finally upgraded to an 80 cf cylinder. I changed over the polarity and wire so I could use shielding gas instead of flux-core wire, but every weld I tried looked like crap. Is it possible the shielding gas isn't reaching the weld? What is the most likely cause? It seems like there would be an issue with whatever tube is within the gun, but I'm not sure. I used to be able to get good welds whether using flux or mig, but I can't even get close with mig now.
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Old 06-28-2015, 05:42 AM   #116 (permalink)
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That's what happened with mine I had to buy a new gun hose assembly & it's been fine ever since. Hose was pinched.
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Old 08-09-2015, 07:30 PM   #117 (permalink)
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I purchased a new hose gun assembly and my welds look good again.



Did the initial trim on the front fenders with my new IR body saw. Those are awesome, slice through thin metal quick.



Redid the truss for better clearance, got the UCA mounts tacked in place, and built the upper control arm.. I still have a lot of reinforcing left to do on the UCA mounts, especially the body side.







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Old 08-11-2015, 10:29 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Not much of a truck person myself, at least off-road wise. I like where you're taking this though. I really like the stance of the rearend.
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:56 PM   #119 (permalink)
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I beefed up the inner front driver-side frame with 3/16" plate, welded in new tube sleeves for the steering gear mounting bolts, lengthened the steering shaft by 3.875", and mounted it all up. Ignore the crappy round tube, it's temporary to keep the frame rails in place since I cut out the front crossmember. I bolted up the drag link and it has about 2" left in front of the diff to give me room for the tie rod and track bar. I also built the track bar from 1.25" OD 1/4" wall, same length as the drag link, 34".













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Old 09-10-2015, 07:43 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Haven't had much time to work on it, but I'm building a hidden winch mount /new front cross member. Once done I'll finish plating where the body side track bar mount is going to go, then get the track bar in place.

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Old 09-19-2015, 10:58 PM   #121 (permalink)
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Working to determine where to put the track bar. This is the most likely place at the moment, very tight tolerance between the diff cover and the drag link TRE when the wheels are pointed straight. I'll probably put it up to where it's at the same vertical height as the drag link though. That would give me 4.25" of up-travel before the drag link and/or track bar hit the frame. How does the height of the panhard affect cornering stability, or the body leaning while off-road, in layman's terms?

Less than an inch of clearance looking top down.






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Old 09-20-2015, 09:33 AM   #122 (permalink)
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Looking good!
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Old 09-25-2015, 06:46 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Clearances were too tight where I was going to run the panhard, so I moved it and I'll have to use a bent bar, which I'll take care of later. The straight bar as is will limit uptravel before the diff cover hits the bar to about 2.5-3". I'll be beefing up the body side mount a bit still and will make the axle-side mount once I get to buy some steel tomorrow.







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Old 10-02-2015, 09:44 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Worked on the axle side track bar bracket, almost complete.







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Old 10-02-2015, 10:08 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Looks good, but is that all the up travel you want. Looks like you have a bit more. I'd run a flat pitman arm, and move the frame track bar mount up. I believe you want your drag link and track bar parallel to the ground at full bump.
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