TJ/YJ/ CJ Cutting Front Frame Rails For Low Ride Height? - Page 2 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:26 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Ive been noodling cutting the front and rear frame on a CJ7 going LEAF springs, so we can lower it down. Maybe its too much work to keep leaf springs, because I havent seen any threads about this. If anyone knows of one, please point it out. Ill be following this thread to see what you linked guys do.
I did this on the front of my cj, there are some pictures in the "hardcore jeeps with leaf springs" thread.
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:00 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Here's my TJ front frame section. 2"x2" square tubing. The axle is pushed way forward with 6.5" of uptravel .







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Old 09-05-2014, 10:42 PM   #28 (permalink)
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subbd.


Just started mulling this over. Was planning on running 2x3 rec tube starting at highest point in arch past motor mounts and running it forward. This would gain me a solid 3inches over stock.

Gonna run a steering box too. Only shooting for 4-5 in of stretch


Well I did it. Still need to do fishplates on sides of frame.



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Old 09-07-2014, 03:00 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Worked well on my build! Looks good.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:40 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Hot setup for keeping it low and stable would be spring under with frenched hangers, and going full hydro with a double-ended ram up front, using the factory tie rod mounts instead of the high steer arms.

That said, since you want to keep it street legal in PA and run coilovers and links, that doesn't really help you.

Reading through this, it looks like you have your front axle pushed forward enough to clear the oil pan/crank pulley (which would be your first source of interference).

You can notch the framerails lowrider-style, or cut them off completely and replace them with tube, but since you don't want to go full-hydro, the big issue is going to be re-locating your steering box (and then subsequently getting it through inspection).

You can probably gain a few inches of up travel by ditching your current high steer setup and building something off of the factory tie rod mounts, but you can only go so far without going full hydro.


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Old 09-12-2014, 06:14 AM   #31 (permalink)
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This is the first guy on PBB I remember cutting the front of his frame for a low ride height.
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...ml#post5981773


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Old 09-12-2014, 06:57 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Ahhhh Teenycar... Achrophobia. Loved that build. (totally forgot about it too. )

If I have time this weekend, I'll be getting some work done, and I'll post up the results.

Thanks for the advice guys.
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Old 09-13-2014, 06:23 AM   #33 (permalink)
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If I were to redo it, I would make the front frame higher than I did. I could use another inch for the track bar and drag link. But you have to be careful because it makes placing a radiator tough.

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Old 09-13-2014, 07:30 PM   #34 (permalink)
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this is what Im doing.Will be running a Tj style steering box.


[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 10-08-2014, 02:40 PM   #35 (permalink)
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subbd.


Just started mulling this over. Was planning on running 2x3 rec tube starting at highest point in arch past motor mounts and running it forward. This would gain me a solid 3inches over stock.

Gonna run a steering box too. Only shooting for 4-5 in of stretch
What vehicle? Post some pics and let us know how it goes. How thick of tube do you plan to use?
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:31 PM   #36 (permalink)
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A few pictures of mine with steering box relocated and mid steer arms (or whatever you want to call it)

There are more pictures in my build thread, but this should give you an idea.
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Old 10-09-2014, 06:29 AM   #37 (permalink)
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How do you guys normally extend your steering shaft? What works best.
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:14 AM   #38 (permalink)
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I bought the Front frame kit that was being sold on here in the vendor section. It raised the frame up significantly but is made for full hydro set-up. Had to lean my radiator back it raised it so much
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:56 AM   #39 (permalink)
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I used a flaming river steering shaft for a YJ, I called them and explained what I was doing, and asked for the amount of slip the shaft would allow, they were very helpful.

Incidentally, I've not had time to mess around with my project much:
I'm currently arguing with interference between the pitman side draglink joint and the tierod on the axle. As it turns out, I may be able to retain the OEM frame (for the most part) while relocating the steering box and building a double shear pitman and substituting a heim at the pitman end of the drag link... it's stupid tight. Mostly stupid.
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:01 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Doesn't sound stupid. I'm having similar issues.. Finally decided to move the box all the way forward to gain enough clearance -thanks for the info, Ill give them a call.
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:29 AM   #41 (permalink)
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I was able to pull my steering shaft apart and it still have enough engagement to work. I think its still about 3-3 1/2 in in
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:26 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Here is a link to my old build thread, it was on a TJ with a 3 link front and full hydro. The front frame work begins on either the 3rd or 4th page...hope it helps the OP out with some ideas.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...ct-2010-a.html
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:30 AM   #43 (permalink)
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A few pictures of mine with steering box relocated and mid steer arms (or whatever you want to call it)

There are more pictures in my build thread, but this should give you an idea.
KM,

What pitman arm is that?
Thanks
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Old 10-10-2014, 08:42 AM   #44 (permalink)
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I can't remember where exactly I bought it, but it is the same pitman that Jeep Speed Shop Sells for $70. I'm not sure who makes it, it is aftermarket. It's a flat blank pitman that you can drill and taper yourself.

Flat - Undrilled 5.25"-7" Pitman Arm
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:49 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Pretty sure Parts Mike sells it too.
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Old 10-10-2014, 05:58 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Def looks like a parts Mike one
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Old 10-11-2014, 07:33 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Here is what I did. I kinda followed along the lines of the Shredder Build. Except I did the 3 link with track bar. 4.5in up travel.



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Old 10-12-2014, 08:57 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Nice work! Is the front plate the only cross member? Can't tell....
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Old 10-12-2014, 12:30 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Thanks for the comment. The round tube under those radiator mounts is 1.5 x 3/8 wall dom that along with the front plate and the shock hoop bar and the motor mounts and engine, keep it all pretty well secure.


The front can get a lot of stress but it handles it pretty well.

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Old 10-12-2014, 02:24 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I cut the frame in front of motor mounts and used 2x4. Notched the frame on both sides where high steer arms and track bar are. Running BTF high steer truss. I moved the front axle forward about 2-3 inches. I had to cut off about 1 inch off the back of BTF truss as it hit the crank pulley. My 40s contact the fenders when full flexed. hehe. Oh had to get a shorter radiator also. The rad fits RIGHT between track bar and steering ram at full stuff. Lower rad hose just contacts track bar at full bump. everything is VERY TIGHT

Full bump




Not Ride Height




Ride Height. Might go 1 inch lower with high fenders

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