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Old 10-14-2014, 04:47 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I just cut mine this past weekend and thought I'd share since I haven't seen this approach taken yet. I cut the frame at the highest point of the arch and then flipped the frame upside down and welded it back up. so now instead of the arch going down in front of the axle it goes up and flattens out. The bonus is your winch plate just bolts bake to the bottom of the frame as you start redoing the front end. Still need to fish plate it and build the front bumper.



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Old 10-18-2014, 08:19 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:57 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I managed to get a few hours in on the project this weekend...







This is all still mocked up, but I've managed to wrangle 9" of uptravel out of it without cutting the frame... much.

It will need notched at the PS frame rail just behind the radiator to clear the drag link on full bump, and I'm going to attempt a custom sheet metal pitman arm... more pics to follow, although I guess I'm kind of defeating the purpose of my own thread.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:12 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Here's mine with mac front frame kit.......



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Old 10-24-2014, 04:12 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Here's mine with mac front frame kit.......




NICE! Build thread?
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:16 AM   #56 (permalink)
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Love that! I know the Mac guy said he wasn't doing the business any more but was doing it as a hobby. I've emailed and PM'd with no response. Has anybody else talked with him recently?
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:34 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Old 10-26-2014, 08:45 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Love that! I know the Mac guy said he wasn't doing the business any more but was doing it as a hobby. I've emailed and PM'd with no response. Has anybody else talked with him recently?
I messaged him around March and heard back a few days later. It's a nice kit but ended up making my own, cost much less but not as nice.

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Old 10-27-2014, 07:56 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Whats he asking for it?
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Old 10-27-2014, 09:36 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Whats he asking for it?
$330 is what i was quoted, not sure if that included shipping though.

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Old 10-27-2014, 11:31 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Here's my build. A bit different than most. Seeing as its 35s and narrow axles. Yes, packaging sucks! Theres a 1000whp turbo kit in there too.

On 35" KM2s I have 5.5" belly at full bump. Engine is set back 6.5" and to the passenger side 1.5". 16" travel airshocks front and rear.






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Old 10-27-2014, 11:49 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by PUNISHER TA View Post
Here's my build. A bit different than most. Seeing as its 35s and narrow axles. Yes, packaging sucks! Theres a 1000whp turbo kit in there too.

On 35" KM2s I have 5.5" belly at full bump. Engine is set back 6.5" and to the passenger side 1.5". 16" travel airshocks front and rear.

That has absolutely nothing to do with the OP's question or anything else in this thread.
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Old 10-28-2014, 12:21 AM   #63 (permalink)
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That has absolutely nothing to do with the OP's question or anything else in this thread.
Modified front frame to allow for more uptravel... yes I can see your point.

Sure I took a different route, but it definitely relates. I think it's a great idea, as all that cowl space is wasted if you don't run HVAC. which anybody that's build a wrangler, knows is at a premium. I'm sure this could spark idea for at least a few.




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Old 10-28-2014, 07:35 AM   #64 (permalink)
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What's going on with the front suspension? Airshocks and 1000hp? What do you plan to do with that thing?
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:29 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Modified front frame to allow for more uptravel



Neat! How'd you bend the grill?
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:18 AM   #66 (permalink)
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What's going on with the front suspension? Airshocks and 1000hp? What do you plan to do with that thing?
Im really not looking to derail this thread. Just wanted to show how I tied my front section together, I had a hell of a time figuring it out. Turned out pretty different.

haha. I was having a hell of a time posting pictures last night, while I couldn't sleep.

My first post did seem a lot like "hey look at me", so I frantically tried to add pictures to make my point and didn't realize I added unfinished pictures.

I ran out of money(awhile ago), so Im just throwing the D30 back in with stock suspension for now. The upper arms are now tied into the engine mounts. Conceptually its pretty hill-jack, running stock suspension, but it actually turned out pretty clean.

Im not sure how the airshocks will work, Im new to all this, and on a budget(obviously). Plans for the jeep, idk, I never could balance time between my racecar and my jeep, so I combined them. This will suffice to do both tasks.



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Neat! How'd you bend the grill?
Nothing fancy, just cut slats.

(Im going to have a grill cut out of 1/8 on a plasma table to replace this)

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Old 11-03-2014, 05:36 PM   #67 (permalink)
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NICE! Build thread?
No build thread. Don't really have time for it
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:14 PM   #68 (permalink)
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https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...-daylight.html

You can see what I did for my CJ on leaf springs. Just knotch out the frame for highsteer.
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Old 11-09-2014, 12:56 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Here's what I did to mine a while back. Still figuring out what I want for a shock length at ride height. I'm thinking 6.5" up travel will give 4.5-5" flat and 6" during articulation. I'll have a limit strap to ensure I don't jam the coilover. I'm using 3x3x 0.25 tube for front rails. I pie cut the frame so I can bend the top and bottom plates to get the best fit possible. I also drilled out some large holes on the tops and sides of the new rails to make large plug welds. I used a deflection calculator and by using 1/4" wall tube I didn't lose too much strength dropping down from the 4" height of the original rails.





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Old 06-03-2015, 11:13 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Bump. Any others? Been looking at tubed out front frames lately but would like to see others too.
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:45 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Realized I didn't show the steering box on my set-up or how I ended up doing my frame. Since this was my first attempt at this extensive of a frame mod, I was worried about making sure it was strong/safe enough for street usage. The 3x3x.25 tubing was close to the original frame strength, the 2x3x.188 angle I added underneath it puts it well over stock. It also gives nearly a 1/2" x 3" bar running through the middle of it! Steering box~frame flex should not be an issue even with larger tires! This frame height also gave enough real estate to mount the steering and suspension components without needing any extra gee-gaws to compensate for leverage.

This shot shows the pitman arm clearance. I used a 1979 Ford F150 4x4 box. This allows the pitman to be on the outside of the frame resulting in a longer draglink (better angle) as well as more space between the frame rails. This is especially important if doing a significant stretch.



I don't remember what stock measurements were but now my frame height is 20.5", 8.7" front axle stretch (32.5" ahead of 1st tub body mount bolt vs 23.8 according to blue prints I've found online.). and the bottom of the tub is 26" from the ground. This is on 37" tires.



The only possible change I could see at this time would be to shorten the track bar an inch or so to move the frame mount inward a bit so it wouldn't interfere with suspension travel. We'll see.
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Old 06-04-2015, 01:06 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Here is mine, been working on it for a few months. I actually cut the front and rear frames and came out level from the highest points. It raised the bed floor about 2.5". Name:  ImageUploadedByAG Free1433448199.908431.jpg
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Full bump, lowest part of the frame is 15" now. Ride height is 7" up.


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Old 06-04-2015, 03:30 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I've noticed a lot of people trying to build a lower than typical suspension using large tires BUT they still try to use high steer arms or some version that lifts their tie rod because its popular. On these types of builds I've seen the linkage become the limiting factor on uptravel. If not building a rock crawler and still concerned about hitting the linkage perhaps a guard protruding from the leading edge of the axle to protect steering would be a better option than lifting the steering.
This was just my situation and observations. I'll go back to stare at the sun now
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:12 PM   #74 (permalink)
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^ I agree. My original plan was to cut the frame, but when I played around with link mounting locations, I realized I can get the jeep actually lower than I wanted.

Granted I don't have a steering box. If I moved the ram higher, nothing would fit. This is a 3-Link setup, and everything clears perfect. I think it's all how you plan it out. Moving the center link lower makes it stronger anyways, spreads the load across the knuckle better.

At this point I think even a 35" tire is into the hood. These fenders are about 2" higher than stock.

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Old 08-28-2015, 06:53 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Here's mine. Slow progress but coming along.
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