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Old 05-10-2015, 10:35 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Going nuts, but getting excited.

going color blind and loosing finger feeling with all this wiring.
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Old 05-10-2015, 03:25 PM   #77 (permalink)
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You work at the speed of light. Good lord man!
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Old 05-11-2015, 04:31 AM   #78 (permalink)
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You work at the speed of light. Good lord man!
ehh, it's final assembly. Yes i've been working like crazy along with a couple friends but this thing was all together and running, with everything fitted up. Plus we've been doing all the painting, blasting, powder coating, and vinyl work in house. No waiting for stuff to come back.
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:55 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Got things together. Did some driving & testing. I'm working out a few bugs, i think i need to flush the coolant, i'm having a slight over-heating issue when crawling for a while. I changed the thermostat and added some anti-freeze but what came out was like ugly muddy water.

I flexed it on the RTI ramp and had to notch my rear shock brackets a little bit because it tried to bind a little, so that's all sorted out.

I just made a lexan windshield for it coz eating bugs wasn't really in my dietary plan.

Got a few more nights this week to get everything preped for memorial day weekend. We'll see how it goes.

Here's some pix.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:43 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Came out really nice I am jealous how quick you made this happen!
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Old 08-13-2015, 08:17 AM   #81 (permalink)
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How bad does it suck wheeling that thing with a 4L80e in it? Since your Drive 4 is right next to N and Reverse...do you find it annoying that you can't switch that shift pattern around to be P R N 1 2 3 4 like you'd do with something with a reverse valve body? I was going to do a 4L80e in mine but I can't seem to find anyway to switch the shift pattern to match the Rock Crawler gate for the Art Carr Winters shifters like in the manual valve body trans.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:27 AM   #82 (permalink)
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How bad does it suck wheeling that thing with a 4L80e in it? Since your Drive 4 is right next to N and Reverse...do you find it annoying that you can't switch that shift pattern around to be P R N 1 2 3 4 like you'd do with something with a reverse valve body? I was going to do a 4L80e in mine but I can't seem to find anyway to switch the shift pattern to match the Rock Crawler gate for the Art Carr Winters shifters like in the manual valve body trans.

Doesn't really bother me or anything. I generally cruise the trails in 4 and let the transmission do it's own thing, i only run a lower gear if i'm crawling something or on a steep hill.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:40 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Just just a quick update.

I've been really enjoying the new revised version of my Jeep. I've gotten to run a lot of the same trails that I've run in the past and this thing really performs a lot better than it ever has. Thanks to everyone that has chimed in and thrown some advise at me when i needed it.

There is one aspect of this buggy that i'm looking to improve upon tho. I really dislike the front brakes on this kingpin ford 60 axle. The design is just not up to where it should be when it's being used in this application. I'm sure i'm not the only one that has had this problem before.

Wheelin along and your brake caliper gets knocked off from a rock? You can't find the retainer shim so you have to stuff a rock in between the pads to take up the slack and bungie that sucker up for the rest of the day...

Anyways, i'm looking to improve the stopping power of the front brakes because they do seem to be lacking a little bit. I'm not sure what the best option is. I could go to the chevy style (doubt there will be a stopping power difference) or i could go aftermarket (lack of autoparts store availability for a trail rig sux).

Current setup:
Wilwood 7:1 Pedal
Dual Wilwood Master Cylinders
1 inch rear master going to disk conversion single piston calipers on gm14b
7/8 master going to dual piston factory ford fronts
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:21 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Not cheap, but I went with the Spidertrax rotors, 4 piston Wilwood dynalite calipers and polymatrix pads (I think B compound). I run a 7:1 Wilwood pedal with 3/4" masters.

It stops exponentially better than any rig I've owned with the same pedal / master setup and factory style rotors and calipers. Every dirt track shop around carries parts and Summit ground ships to me in 2 days.

I keep a spare caliper and spare pads in the trailer and havent needed any of it yet. I'm 3 races and a few trail riding weekends into my brakes and I think I should be able to finish the next race and another weekend of trail riding before I need new pads.

Worth the money.
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Old 08-24-2015, 06:27 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Man...


That thing turned out great!
Im sure by now, you have new front brakes. lol
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Old 08-25-2015, 05:32 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chris demartini View Post
Not cheap, but I went with the Spidertrax rotors, 4 piston Wilwood dynalite calipers and polymatrix pads (I think B compound). I run a 7:1 Wilwood pedal with 3/4" masters.

It stops exponentially better than any rig I've owned with the same pedal / master setup and factory style rotors and calipers. Every dirt track shop around carries parts and Summit ground ships to me in 2 days.

I keep a spare caliper and spare pads in the trailer and havent needed any of it yet. I'm 3 races and a few trail riding weekends into my brakes and I think I should be able to finish the next race and another weekend of trail riding before I need new pads.

Worth the money.

Do you have any pictures of your front brake setup?

Also interested in what you did for caliper brackets. I'm temporarily fixing what i have but i'm very interested in upgrading to a setup like you've described.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:08 PM   #87 (permalink)
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Tim at LII made the brackets.

The front is a flat bracket with a spacer welded in for caliper alignment.



Rotor goes on behind the hub like the stock one does.



On the rear axle (Ford van 60) the rotor slides over the hub, and an offset bracket for hub clearance is welded on to the axle.

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Old 08-25-2015, 07:12 PM   #88 (permalink)
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Awesome build! Any videos of it in action?
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Old 08-27-2015, 08:19 AM   #89 (permalink)
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After doing a lot of research and trying to be realistic about my needs. I've decided to order the chevy conversion brackets from TMR & convert over to the chevy style calipers and rotors.

Should give me better clearance, a superior design to what i have now & parts availability at any parts store, no matter where i'm at in the country.

We'll see how it goes. I'm planning to experiment a little more with master cylinders and try to get this thing performing a little better when it comes to brakes.
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Old 08-27-2015, 09:18 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Sounds like you have a plan, but for the sake of discussion what back spacing are you running?

I run H2 wheels with about 5" of backspace, and my calipers are nicely protected.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:22 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Sounds like you have a plan, but for the sake of discussion what back spacing are you running?

I run H2 wheels with about 5" of backspace, and my calipers are nicely protected.
I believe spyderlock wheels are 3.5 inch offset
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:25 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Last week I spent some time tinkering with the never ending list of little detail things that i wanted to get done before my labor day fun. I figured going over the rig and getting these things done would help me enjoy the day a little more.

The mirrors i had sucked and i broke both of them off while wheeling this spring so after some looking around i found these online and thought they would be way better. Old ones were to small and to far away from my face. So these new ones are 3 times the size, and i put a new tube in to bring them closer to me.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:27 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Then I upgraded the front brakes because i got sick of those ford calipers flying off every time you bump a rock with them.

Went with the TMR brackets, I powder coated them and picked up some chevy calipers and pads/rotors from the local parts store.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:30 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Because i was having some rising engine temps earlier this spring while doing some long climbs, i figured it was time to take cooling a little more serious. Got a shroud put together that will allow me to utilize all of the radiator instead of the portion that the fan was covering.

It made a very big difference, especially since it was 92 degrees while we were out wheeling.
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Old 09-12-2015, 07:30 AM   #95 (permalink)
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thanks for posting, and it's always great to see great businesses support their products! I'll be contacting fabcam as soon as my shop is moved, and i'm ready for my next phase of shop development and tools.
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Old 09-13-2015, 03:31 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Well after wheeling the new front brake setup, i have to report that I'm still not impressed with the strength of my front brakes. This is defiantly a far superior design, and i did notice a little bit of improvement in stopping power, but it's far from where it needs to be.

I'm thinking i need a master cylinder change for the front. I'm currently at 7/8 with a 7:1 pedal on a completely manual braking system. It's just not enough pressure to stop me when i'm going down steep hills. I'm pushing as hard as i can on the pedal and the tires just seem to have to much leverage on this setup.

I'll try can call wilwood again and talk to someone that know something. (my last conversation was with a clueless person that only wanted to ask me what year make and model my vehicle was.)

Any other suggestions out there?
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:37 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Well after wheeling the new front brake setup, i have to report that I'm still not impressed with the strength of my front brakes. This is defiantly a far superior design, and i did notice a little bit of improvement in stopping power, but it's far from where it needs to be.

I'm thinking i need a master cylinder change for the front. I'm currently at 7/8 with a 7:1 pedal on a completely manual braking system. It's just not enough pressure to stop me when i'm going down steep hills. I'm pushing as hard as i can on the pedal and the tires just seem to have to much leverage on this setup.

I'll try can call wilwood again and talk to someone that know something. (my last conversation was with a clueless person that only wanted to ask me what year make and model my vehicle was.)

Any other suggestions out there?

I've been reading that 3/4 masters and 2 lbs. residual valves is the way to get great pedal feel and good braking power. Right now i feel like i'm using every bit of leg strength i have to stop this thing and i wouldn't trust handing the keys over to someone and letting them drive it for fear of not being able to stop. Might be swapping things around again. Whoever i keep getting on the phone at wilwood seems clueless and i don't have enough experience in this area to really know. I just want improved braking power. I hear a lot of the rock bouncer guys are running full manual systems and i've seen those guys lock 'em up on video's like it's nothing.
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Old 01-18-2016, 02:08 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Yes 7/8's is too large for 3/4ton calipers. Not sure why you would need a residual valve though. If you put the trans in neutral will it stop? Just curious if you are fighting just stopping the rig or also while it is drive.
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Old 01-25-2016, 11:17 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Yes 7/8's is too large for 3/4ton calipers. Not sure why you would need a residual valve though. If you put the trans in neutral will it stop? Just curious if you are fighting just stopping the rig or also while it is drive.
If i put the trans in neutral, it is slightly easier but I'm still fighting.

As far as the residual valve goes. I was told that there maybe be to much pedal throw due to moving less fluid with the 3/4. The residual valve would lessen that.

I've yet to try anything new yet. The thing is on the back burner at the moment with winter being here and other projects taking place.
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