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Old 12-27-2003, 11:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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TJ dana 60s narrowing specs

I am putting a pair of dana 60 axles into my TJ taken from a 79 Ford F250 Custom, I have two questions for those who have done this swap before.

1) For the front, I plan on running it 65" WMS-WMS, and I will shorten only the passenger side by 4.5", so I will have pass. side inner at 30" and driver inner at 18" approx. My only concern here, is clearance between the exhaust and front DS. Can anybody provide some measurements from their set up, thanks.

2) For the rear, I know that I need to cut the spindles and bore them out to 1.55" to have the 35 splines shaft fit in it. I will shorten the rear to 63" WMS-WMS. I have read many and many posts about this swap by SEARCHING first, and I was wondering if anybody have built a home made jig in order to weld the spindle back on straight. Is there a way to do this without having to spend 200$ on a jig or bringing the whole axle to a machine shop?

Thanks, and oh, by the way, I know this is my first post, so FLAME ME ALL YOU WANT...
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Old 12-27-2003, 04:19 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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why are you running different width axles ? any specific reason?
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Old 12-27-2003, 05:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Quote:
why are you running different width axles ? any specific reason?
Narrower rear helps with tracking/steering. The rear will more easily follow the front if it is a little narrower.

Last edited by J. Hard; 12-27-2003 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 12-27-2003, 05:06 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What measurements do you need for the front? Mine is 65" too. Steve Gerstner built it but I could probably give you bracket/knuckle to pumpkin measurements, etc...
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Old 12-27-2003, 05:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by XJ wit an LT1
why are you running different width axles ? any specific reason?
The Jeep will track better and will have a tighter turning radius with the rear narrower.

Quote:
Originally posted by 84 Sheepdog
What measurements do you need for the front?
The front inner shafts. I just need to know if cutting 4.5 inches of the passenger side of a 79 Ford HP 60 will clear the driveshaft from the exhaust. Thanks.
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Old 12-27-2003, 05:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
 
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I am using a HP60 out of a 90 F350. Only difference between the 78-79 and 88?-91.5 is 3" of tube on the driver side instead of 6". I had 3" cut off of the passenger side and run it at 66.5" WMS to WMS.
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Old 12-27-2003, 09:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
 
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I think cutting 4.5" off the pass side should work. I am not positive though. Look up LUVMYTJ on the PBB. He cut the same axle down for the front of his TJ to I believe 63" (6.5" off pass side and it JUST cleared) I would pm him to be sure though.

I also had Steve Gerstner build my front axle. Top notch work and good prices. Here are a couple pics. Sorry for the link.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...06989429ihfXBE

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...06989521CDckLq

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...06947857pjRSMc


Last edited by J. Hard; 12-27-2003 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 12-27-2003, 10:13 PM   #8 (permalink)
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look out you will have problems. If you have auto even worse.

Been there done that. I went with the newer ford 6o kingpin since the pumpkin is over drivers side more. and I still hit the deep tranny pan. at max flex. Made my axle 65 inches. sorry hope you make it work.
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Old 12-28-2003, 07:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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J.Hard

Thanks for the tip. I just read LUVMYTJ's post about his front hp60 and his pass. inner measures 28.6", but the DS is pretty damn close to the exhaust. But I think he also cut the driver side. Arghhh....I might just cut the passenger side by 3.5" just to be safe. I just do want to fawk it up

tjmark

I am running a standard, but who knows in the future what I will run.

Anybody else, or anybody want to answer my second question about the rear 60. Mucho gracias.
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Old 12-28-2003, 08:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
 
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Just a thought...
As compared to my axle with 3" of tube on the driver side, yours has 6" of tube on the driver side. Both axles come stock at approximately 69.5" WMS to WMS. I had 3" cut off the pass side and it was cut as wide as you can make this D60 work in a TJ...SOOOO, why don't you just run it full width since you alrerady have 3 more inches on the driver side already. I would think it would line up fine. You want it narrower, just run hummer rims. 16.5x8.25 with 7" of BS stock. I understand there are a few steering arm issues to deal with but it would save you some money and time in the long run. Does this make sense

Outside of being too wide for some peoples tastes...is there any reason that a 78-79 D60 would not line up in a TJ w/o being shortened?
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Old 12-28-2003, 09:05 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Mine is only narrowed on the long(passenger) side. I don't have any problems hitting the transmission pan or exhaust. (It's a 4.0 with 4 spd. automatic.)
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Old 12-28-2003, 10:16 AM   #12 (permalink)
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sheepdog what year 60 and what is your wms to wms? stock transfer case?
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Old 12-28-2003, 10:45 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by J. Hard
Just a thought...
As compared to my axle with 3" of tube on the driver side, yours has 6" of tube on the driver side. Both axles come stock at approximately 69.5" WMS to WMS. I had 3" cut off the pass side and it was cut as wide as you can make this D60 work in a TJ...SOOOO, why don't you just run it full width since you alrerady have 3 more inches on the driver side already. I would think it would line up fine. You want it narrower, just run hummer rims. 16.5x8.25 with 7" of BS stock. I understand there are a few steering arm issues to deal with but it would save you some money and time in the long run. Does this make sense

Outside of being too wide for some peoples tastes...is there any reason that a 78-79 D60 would not line up in a TJ w/o being shortened?
I don't like hummer rims because they make the hubs stick out and I run lots of narrow trails, don't want to smash them into trees and rocks. Also, I want my jeep to still be street legal, and cops can't be a biatch about this if your tires stick out far. Anyway, I plan on running 16.5x9.75 rims with 5" backspacing. I am in no rush in building the 60s, I just want to do them right and for once be happy with the axles I got
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Old 12-28-2003, 06:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I don't know much about TJ's, but is it hard/possible to reroute the exhaust? I guess maybe if it were that easy you wouldn't be asking. Good luck.
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Old 12-28-2003, 07:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Meyer
I don't know much about TJ's, but is it hard/possible to reroute the exhaust? I guess maybe if it were that easy you wouldn't be asking. Good luck.
You can go with an aftermarket exhaust, but then you develop clearance issues with other things like the skidplate.

I've heard more complaints than praises about TJ headers and aftermarket exhausts.
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Old 12-29-2003, 08:37 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Just take the rear axle to a machine shop and have them cut it down. I have my own jig to narrow axles and it cost me over $200 for the tooling alone, so it would make more sense financially to just pay once and be done with it.

BTW: cut down 60's make the Jeep drive BETWEEN the fenders of the trailer, instead of OVER.
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Old 12-29-2003, 09:19 AM   #17 (permalink)
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For the rear axle why not just run a 14 bolt with the C&C hubs, they are ~63" wms already. It would be cheaper than custom shafts, and machining your stock spindles.
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Old 12-29-2003, 11:42 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally posted by jeepboyben
For the rear axle why not just run a 14 bolt with the C&C hubs, they are ~63" wms already. It would be cheaper than custom shafts, and machining your stock spindles.
The only thing about the C&C 14 bolt is that there is no selectable lockers to use with it. I love my current ARBs and I would like to run ARBs also on both new axles. Anybody know why ARB doesn't produce a locker for the 14 bolt?

Most likely machine shops where I live have never shortened any axles before, I am afraid they are going to screw up, but if it has to come this, than, I will just bite the bullet and hold my breath while my rear 60 is being shortened.
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Old 12-29-2003, 12:28 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Where is "your area" at? Maybe you could search around the board for a shop nearby that would do it, who has done them before.
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Old 12-29-2003, 01:28 PM   #20 (permalink)
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yep... my exaust is beat to shit... Im running a HP 60 at 65 inchs WMS to WMS ... even with 6 inches of lift... I am doing a motor lift to help DS angles ect..

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Old 12-29-2003, 04:15 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by tjmark
sheepdog what year 60 and what is your wms to wms? stock transfer case?
It's a 91 WMS to WMS is 65". Stock transfer case and transmission. Just the passenger side is cut down. Doesn't rub the exhaust but it's close.



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Old 12-29-2003, 09:38 PM   #22 (permalink)
 
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From what I gathered while talking with Steve at Differential Engineering, the range he looks at when only cutting the passenger side is 64" to 66.5" when the donor D60 is out of a 88-91.5 Ford. Any wider or narrrower you run the chance of having clearance issues.

FWIW
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Old 12-29-2003, 10:26 PM   #23 (permalink)
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It's a 91



diffrent than 79
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Old 12-29-2003, 11:06 PM   #24 (permalink)
 
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Re: 14-bolt ARB...

QUOTE]The only thing about the C&C 14 bolt is that there is no selectable lockers to use with it. I love my current ARBs and I would like to run ARBs also on both new axles. Anybody know why ARB doesn't produce a locker for the 14 bolt?[/QUOTE]

ARB will be making an air locker for the 14-bolt. Expect it to come out sometime around July of 2004.
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Old 12-30-2003, 08:05 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Here is what I decided to do for the front 60:
(From Billavista's bible)

Length of 79 HP60 = 69.25"
79 HP60 inners length = 18.56" and 34.56"
By cutting 2" of the short side and 2.5" of the long side, I can use off-the-shelf spicer inner shaft 16.94" (660182-34) and 32.06" (660182-26). I might be able to get a few bucks by selling my old inners.
WMS-WMS would be 64.75".

As for the rear, I am still undecided.
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