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Old 08-26-2018, 07:35 AM   #251 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stephen wilson View Post
Maybe I'm missing something, but it looks like that welded gusset hard-mountes the body/cage to the frame? So why keep the body mount pucks ?
It is hard mounted, don't need the puck. I may change it later, I'm 25 days away from leaving for Moab so I'm trucking along in several places.
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:33 AM   #252 (permalink)
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Understood, that makes sense. IMO, when you get around to removing the pucks, I would cut out the body mount and do a proper direct to frame mount for the roll cage. That would be ideal, but I understand every build has compromises.
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:20 AM   #253 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by stephen wilson View Post
Understood, that makes sense. IMO, when you get around to removing the pucks, I would cut out the body mount and do a proper direct to frame mount for the roll cage. That would be ideal, but I understand every build has compromises.


I wonít argue that tube would be stronger, but if you look at how load would get transferred into these mounts, I also donít think they are weak. They would do great for side impacts and downward impacts to the cage. Diagonal loads are going to be transferred to the rear tie-ins if hit from the front, or the front if loaded from the rear. I wouldnít race KOH on them but for regular wheeling I think theyíre good.



Rear hoops are in, I just have to work out my tabs. I want to tie them from the hoop back to the cage, but the cage also needs to be removable. Got my thinking cap on there.



Seats arenít mounted yet but I have a plan!






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Old 08-31-2018, 07:13 AM   #254 (permalink)
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I wanted my shock mounts to have double shear strength which meant Iíd have to tie them to the cage. BUT I also wanted to be able to remove the cage. So hereís what I came up with.











They should be strong enough to take a serious beat down while also allowing me the ability to remove the cage for powder coat and any other reason I might need to take it out.

Iíve still got some cage tie-ins to do (A and C pillars), but I got the through the firewall tie-ins to my front frame section tacked up last night!








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Old 09-01-2018, 09:51 PM   #255 (permalink)
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Got the C Pillar tie-ins knocked out today! Also welded up the steering disconnect right before I left, will know tomorrow how sloppy the joes disconnect is gonna be!




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Old 09-10-2018, 11:48 AM   #256 (permalink)
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Awesome build bud just finished reading the thread and am looking forward to seeing it, we definitely need to catch up soon. Plenty of inspiration for my junk, I’m just getting started in the 4x4 world, lol race cars are a completely different animal.
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Old 09-18-2018, 12:45 PM   #257 (permalink)
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Got the cage pulled and welded out






Did tabs and tapped holes for a future lexan windshield



Then onto powder coat. Choose a powder that matches the Ram Crystal Grey so that touchup is easy down the road. A touchup pin or a rattle can should do it!







Got the doors and armor body matched








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Old 09-18-2018, 12:50 PM   #258 (permalink)
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Putting it back together!









Iíve run out of time (leaving for Moab in 48 hours), so I had to whip out a quick console last night, and am going to have to do a dash tonight because they shipped my fiberglass dash greyhound and in 20 days itís made it from San Diego to Phoenix AZ 🤦🏼*♂️🤷🏼*♂️🤬




Hey look, there I am!!!!




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Old 10-06-2018, 09:33 AM   #259 (permalink)
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So I was able to get things together enough to make Moab!

Down and dirty aluminum dash, got it installed a couple hours before pulling out.







Moab was amazing!












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Old 10-24-2019, 12:55 PM   #260 (permalink)
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While in Moab my engine and trans never overheated, but my water temp and trans temps did climb higher than Iíd like at times. When I got back I decided I should take some measures to mitigate this in the future. First up, I added a poison Spyder hood louver to try and let some heat out.



This worked to a point but I knew summer temps would need more. So, I ended up swapping to a 160 degree thermostat, added an oil cooler, and for good measure an oil accumulator!





To plumb the oil stuff in, I went with the improved racing oil thermostat. Itís supposed to ensure the oils at optimal operating temperature before opening up and sending oil to the cooler and it gave me all the ports I needed to hook everything up.



I also have a second Derele fanned cooler that Iím adding for the transmission but I havenít figure out where to stick that yet. Packaging is SUPER tight in here and Iím running out of room fast.

Ended up using axia alloy clamps for the accumulator.



And stuffed it in here




Then I made a bracket that bolted to 2 studs on the firewall that the oil cooler could mount to.






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Old 10-24-2019, 03:48 PM   #261 (permalink)
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3rd Life Crisis TJ (Tons on 42's)

Just got back from AOP and can report the water temp issue is solved. Spent most the trip at about 180. It did climb up to 205 after some prolonged beat downs but all in all Iím pretty satisfied.

Trans temps never got hot but Iím still planning to stuff that second cooler in there somewhere and I also think I might move my sender as itís in the pressure port and I hear thatís static fluid (hoping that means the trans is really a lot cooler than what the gauge is showing)


Hereís some AOP pics!

















I almost screwed up pretty bad on Little Caesarís. Back tire slide up under an undercut and pinched hard into a crack and pulled the front end over the back rather than climb the ledge. Got lucky









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Last edited by ZSavage81; 10-24-2019 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 10-24-2019, 04:25 PM   #262 (permalink)
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Damn... I bet you puckered the whole seat up on that one.
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Old 10-25-2019, 08:56 AM   #263 (permalink)
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Damn... I bet you puckered the whole seat up on that one.
My butt was clinched so tight you couldn't have pulled a greased string out of it with a tractor!
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Old 11-04-2019, 03:53 PM   #264 (permalink)
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Awesome thread and pics!
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