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Old 06-02-2016, 07:09 AM   #101 (permalink)
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My buddy Ian knows his way around a D300 and was kind enough to install shift rails and seals in my case for me. This way I've got H/L in the front output to use for digs!



Added some HP!!!



Had to grind on the cable shifter bracket a little to clear. Not sure if this was just because of the way Im clocked or what.



Added a sight tube to the 231 while I was there!



Then proceeded to cut a huge ass hole in my floor!



Ian hooked me up with his old skid and I cut some brackets to make it work for me. Needed a 1/4" spacer so I've got a plate welded on top for that, then decided to weld one on the bottom as well to protect the bolts.



For the actual tranny mount, I'd cut a plate that I went ahead and bolted to the tranny. Then I bolted the skid in place and tacked it from the bottom so I knew all my alignment was correct.



Ready to install!



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Old 06-02-2016, 07:34 AM   #102 (permalink)
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Next was mounting the shifters. I needed to raise them up a little so I cut out a bracket. Really wish I'd used 1/8" instead of 1/4", this was a bugger to bend in my little brake.









Made myself a mount for the 22" LED bar while I was at it. Pretty simple out of 1/8"





You can also see the spreader bar Donny helped me get in last week!



Decided I'd go ahead and wire up all 6 switches to a marine fuse block and relays so whenever I want to add an accessory all I have to do is run 1 wire from the relay to the light or whatever and ground it out. Should make future hookups stupid simple. I still need to make a mounting bracket for them though.



Another buddy, Kerley, loves to wire stuff so he jumped on this the other night.



Going to sandwich the mounting plate between the fuse block and relays, sorta like this.

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Old 06-06-2016, 09:51 AM   #103 (permalink)
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So last minute I had an old buddy say we was going to come with us to Harlan.....that meant 3 bolts in my passenger seat on a cut up floor probably wasn't going to cut it. So, I didn't go to sleep Thursday night. Was supposed to head out Friday morning at 9:30, ended up leaving at 3.

Starting to get the cage work/seat tie-ins together.




Decided to cut a 1/4" plate to run over the tunnel. It's 2" tall and tied together with 1x2 1/8" wall. I was a little worried it wouldn't be strong enough until I go it all together........brick shit house!



All primed up with harness tabs! I also cut a tunnel cover out of 16ga aluminum and installed a shifter boot I'd previously purchased to go on the old d300 single stick. I think it turned out pretty nice!



Didn't get the switch panel plate made before we left so my switch panel just hit me in the leg repeatedly all weekend as it dangled from the dash by the wires!



Old muffler wouldn't clear the new flat belly, so I got a magniflow round muffler to solve the clearance issue!



So after a week of averaging 2-3 hours of sleep, then staying up for about 36 hours straight we get to Black Mountain OHV only to get rear ended by some high school kid diddling his girlfriend in his moms mini van.



Only trail repair I needed was to screw my sender together, I apparently bounced it apart coming up Your Turn!









Here's where things took a turn......we get all the way to Lions Den and jump out to figure out lines and all that. Walk back to the jeeps to discover a huge hole in Ian's sidewall. No spares, so our weekend ended at about 6pm Saturday. We got a lot of wheeling in Friday night and about 12 hours in on Saturday, but we didn't even get to attempt the one obstacle we'd come for. I didn't take a bunch of pictures because my dad was getting everything, then we got back to the cabin and discovered he'd somehow deleted all but 2 pictures.....also a bummer!

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Old 08-24-2016, 08:27 AM   #104 (permalink)
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I'm trying to order coilovers for the front and need some help figuring out where to start on spring rates for a 4 banger TJ? I'm still looking for someone in SC with race scales so I can get corner weights and not have to guess, but so far no luck. I'm trying to tune this thing up using Wayne's ideology of being as lightly sprung as possible and being aggressively valved. The rear is a little over sprung at 100/150 but even so it performs awesome! If I can get it weighed I'm going to order rear springs when I order front CO's.

There is a 4 cylinder ultra4 type race series at AOP (4 Banger Bash) that I'm thinking I want to compete in next year. Plan is to get the front suspension dialed in over the winter and come out blazing!

and because every post needs some pictures!



My buddy lasered my shift knobs for me and cerakoted them sniper gray.



I thought they were pretty sweet until.......



bought 2 dozen of these little LED's to use as rock lights and reverse lights.



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Old 08-24-2016, 08:38 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Weighing it on scales will tell you nothing but total Jeep weight. You need to order your coilovers, get them mounted, then buy or borrow a set of springs. Use those springs to "weigh" the Jeep by measuring deflection. That's the sprung weight, and the important number. Then order your springs to match you ride height and preload you want.
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:04 AM   #106 (permalink)
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What he means to say is, find someone with springs, any coilover springs meant for your size, and put them on the shock. You can do a single spring to make it easier or you can do a little bit more math if you have to use two springs per shock. Springs loaded in series are calculated like resistors paired in parallel.

(First spring rate * second spring rate)/(First spring rate + second spring rate)

To find your corner weight, install the spring(s) on the coilover, get the preload adjuster finger tight, meaning measure the spring, bring the adjust right to the edge of the spring and get it snug but no preload. Record the spring length, it should be the same as when it was off the coilover (example: 14" spring should still be 14" with no load). Do this for every corner. Put the Jeep down on all four wheels. Measure spring compression, in inches. Be precise.

Take that measurement, recall the spring rate. It should be a number, say 175 pounds per inch. Multiply this number by the difference in spring length. That is your corner weight. So if the spring went down 4 inches and your spring rate is 175 pounds per inch, you would have a 700 pound corner weight at that end.
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Old 08-24-2016, 12:12 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxracer View Post
What he means to say is, find someone with springs, any coilover springs meant for your size, and put them on the shock. You can do a single spring to make it easier or you can do a little bit more math if you have to use two springs per shock. Springs loaded in series are calculated like resistors paired in parallel.

(First spring rate * second spring rate)/(First spring rate + second spring rate)

To find your corner weight, install the spring(s) on the coilover, get the preload adjuster finger tight, meaning measure the spring, bring the adjust right to the edge of the spring and get it snug but no preload. Record the spring length, it should be the same as when it was off the coilover (example: 14" spring should still be 14" with no load). Do this for every corner. Put the Jeep down on all four wheels. Measure spring compression, in inches. Be precise.

Take that measurement, recall the spring rate. It should be a number, say 175 pounds per inch. Multiply this number by the difference in spring length. That is your corner weight. So if the spring went down 4 inches and your spring rate is 175 pounds per inch, you would have a 700 pound corner weight at that end.

I was going to get corner weight and subtract axle and tire weight. I can use this method to go ahead and figure out the rear. Dave's has a spring exchange program so I was sorta wanting to get as close as possible and they exchange if i needed to.

I want 6" of up travel and 10" of down travel front and rear with 2-3" of pre-load. I'm at like 7.625" of up travel in the rear right now with no pre-load on a 16" 100# over a 18" 150# spring.
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:07 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Last trip out I got wedged real hard under a tree in papa gulch that resulted in a pretty good dent in my old eyebrow bar. Decided it was a good time to cut that mess out and switch it up.



The bend tech wrappers make notching super easy. Some of them I hit on the cut off saw first, but most of them just needed the drum sander and maybe a touch up with the flap wheel. Thanks for the help Croft!







Hopefully gonna get V Bars knocked out tonight. Everything's outta 1.625" .120 wall right now. Was hoping to find something a little smaller for the V, but it's probably going to end up 1.625 tube.

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Old 09-05-2016, 07:32 AM   #109 (permalink)
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Not my best day driving Saturday. The park was very slick in the morning, but I didn't get denied anywhere, just took me longer than usual to get up some things. Glad I didn't have to test out the new cage additions as there seemed to be a lot of roll overs!



Here's a flop I had to help recover (the softest roll of the day).






There were a bunch of treps and LS motors around this weekend. Ol' E-rock rode with me and kept talking shit telling them they needed shitty irocs and a 4 banger!


16" 2.5 remote reservoir CO's have been ordered for the front. Hoping to get them in time to get them in before the Dixie Run. Went 125/175 so we'll see if I went too light to hold it up!
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:40 PM   #110 (permalink)
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I'm working on something a little different. My 4.5 year old really wants to go wheeling with me. obviously I'm not gonna hit anything with a high rollover probability with her in the jeep, but I'd still like her to be secure enough that if the worst happened I would have to worry if she was ok. So.......





I've got OD tube clamps coming so it's bolt into the cage. The main tube is bent, but I still need to do the halo.






I finally got my reverse lights wired up and started installing my rock lights also.

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Old 09-09-2016, 12:43 AM   #111 (permalink)
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Got the car seat cage finished up tonight, waiting on paint to dry and throwing it in tomorrow!






I sold my tube fenders this week. Bout to either do some rolled high line fenders, or some aluminum fabricated high line fenders. Haven't decided yet. Also, picked up some koplan SxS mirrors that fit the cage perfect. Good cheap way to see what's behind ya!



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Old 09-09-2016, 08:49 AM   #112 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZSavage81 View Post
N

Decided I'd go ahead and wire up all 6 switches to a marine fuse block and relays so whenever I want to add an accessory all I have to do is run 1 wire from the relay to the light or whatever and ground it out. Should make future hookups stupid simple. I still need to make a mounting bracket for them though.


Where did you source the switch panel?? Looks great BTW.
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:28 AM   #113 (permalink)
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Where did you source the switch panel?? Looks great BTW.
Amazon, and thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-10-2016, 02:18 PM   #114 (permalink)
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You're friend is a dick. Oh well small price to pay for them cool shift knobs. Whole jeep is looking good.
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:24 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Couple shots from this weekends trip to Winrock! Jeep worked great, met some nice new people, trails were a bit dusty but still awesome! My daughter didn't make the trip so her brand new car seat cage doubled as a cooler holder!













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Old 09-16-2016, 08:03 AM   #116 (permalink)
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looks good with no fenders! i would just amke am pannel to cover the open spots and leave it like that!
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Old 10-15-2016, 11:31 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Here we go!!! 16" 2.5's!



GENTLEMEN..............Start your grinders!





more updates to come!!!
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Old 10-15-2016, 01:47 PM   #118 (permalink)
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One side tacked up!!! Struggling to make the other side match





Both sides are done and completely burned in. Gotta knock out the over engine tube tomorrow.

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Old 10-16-2016, 05:25 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Pretty much feel like I nailed the spring rates at 125# 16" over 175# 18". Still need to do my math on corner weight, but they were 34.5" with no weight and compressed to 24 9/16" sitting on it's own weight. Right now I have 6.126" of shaft showing with no preload. Original plan was 6" up and 10" down, but when I started measuring I had a little more room up plus I figure the shaft bumps are going to limit it some. So, i build the hoops for 7" up. Hoping once i adjust the preload it's sitting perfect!
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:48 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Gotta pick up some clamps for the bumps, but other than that the mount is done. Clears the hood by about 3/4".







I don't know if anyone's even looking at this thread, but for anyone whose ditched inner fenders, where/how did you mount the fuse block and anything else that was mounted to the inner fender? Looking for inspiration!


Also, little PSA here: the daystar hood pins are sold single, not in pairs. Fount out the hard way tonight.

TOO FAST, TOO FURIOUS! #racejeep

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Old 10-18-2016, 08:08 PM   #121 (permalink)
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looks awesome! i follow every update!
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:35 PM   #122 (permalink)
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I mounted all my goodies off of the shock towers... took some fanagling but got it all to work... even made a mount left of the brake booster (hydro) to keep my washer reservoir... bought a tall skinny coolant reservoir for coolant mounted right next to my radiator. I can take some pics of you're interested
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:28 AM   #123 (permalink)
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I mounted all my goodies off of the shock towers... took some fanagling but got it all to work... even made a mount left of the brake booster (hydro) to keep my washer reservoir... bought a tall skinny coolant reservoir for coolant mounted right next to my radiator. I can take some pics of you're interested
Since I don't have a windshield at the moment, I'm not going to worry about the washer reservoir.......unless maybe i run a hose into the cab and it becomes a mixed drink dispenser or something!!! Looks like all my stuff will be attached to the hoops/engine bar also. Started drawing up some brackets last night!

In other news: I'm about to help a buddy who has a 4bt Cummins TJ do a 60 swap in the front, 16" CO's, redesign the 3 link to a 4 link, and go full hydro. In that process I'm getting his PSC ram, box, and reservoir so looking forward to swapping that stuff out at some point. My ram and box are fine, but I don't think the pitman arm is clocked correctly so I'm only getting like 50-60% turning passenger. It'll be an opportunity to figure that out while upgrading to higher quality parts.

Got both hood pins installed and picked a color for the cage last night!



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Old 10-31-2016, 11:58 AM   #124 (permalink)
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Got to drive the jeep this weekend and have some problems. I needed to pull the lowers back 1/2" so the tie rod doesn't hit the pitman arm. The uppers are out of adjustment so my pinion angle is super steep so when you turn it goes down rather than left to right making the suspension unload. But it flexes pretty good like it is.








Full droop, measured and got front and rear limit straps ordered this weekend



So I've ordered some 1.25" hiems and am going to remake the upper links and frame side link mounts. I was hoping to just make what was there work since I wanted to stretch it when I can afford full hydro, but the geometry sucks. My man Ian hooked me up with some brackets for the frame.



Also upgraded from the small ram and factory tapped box I had, to units from PSC. (We took these off the Turbo Turd since it's going full hydro right now).



Made some pretty good progress on the 4BT TurboTurd this weekend too!



rear shock mounts in progress

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Old 10-31-2016, 05:48 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I am still following along. May not matter to you much, but

I'm liking the updates! Hope to see more here before long. Have a soft spot for that blurple color since I owned two of them lol
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