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Old 05-24-2016, 06:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pretty basic Golden Eagle


saw this sitting in a farmers field near my house. A fairly molested 78 Golden eagle 304 3 speed d20 with a broken output shaft "non running" for 300 bucks. Drug it home and got it going in about 10 minutes

IT was full of 1980's goodies dual shocks, dual steering stabilizers, lots of rust in the body but someone had already repaired and coated the frame

I yanked the tub off and tore my 2wd T18 i stole from another farmer down the road and bolted a novak adapter up




my other buddy pulled his YJ tub off his junk so i got it for free, had a friend swing by and we started adding some patch panels


Last edited by Tacedaddy; 08-27-2017 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 05-24-2016, 06:11 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Called up Ballistic and Ruffstuff and grabbed some brackets and misc stuff
made a plate on the output of the T-case and ran my crossmember over the top, probably gonna run a 1" body lift

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Old 05-24-2016, 06:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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NOS 74 K20 axle i had to drive 200 miles in the comanche to get but whatever


also scrapped an explorer, so i kept the ford 8.8. I'm going with Yukons C'clip eliminator kit like im running in my XJ, planning 2.5" of lift and 37's with 3" stretch. Keeping it Leaf sprung (its a CJ and i could do another 3-link but that seems like cheating)

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Old 05-24-2016, 06:23 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Speaking of Springs these showed up like the first week of may


so last week i narrowed the front axle to early waggy width (ordered a chromo long side shaft) and threw it under the CJ with explorer rear springs SOA, IT sits PERFECT!!

threw spacers on the rear to get my width close on the axles and so i can put wheels on it, Also bolted up my headers and started routing my exhaust. the only thing that hangs down in the middle of my CJ is the drain plug on the T18

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Old 05-24-2016, 06:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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threw this in
to mock it up.... grr I really want to stretch the rear but with these 3" superlift springs its sitting level with the front, we shall see.

You guys think this dinky 304 with edlebrock intake mild cam and headers are gonna break these 1310 joints locked on 37's


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Old 05-25-2016, 06:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Should be fine, just carry a few 1310 spares with you where ever you go. I had my Comanche SOA front/rear, dirty 30 and a 8.8 on 37's and I spanked the shit out if it without any hiccups.

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Old 05-25-2016, 09:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Curious if 304 with edlebrock gonna be good with 37's. Way to go man.
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Old 05-25-2016, 09:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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My cj had a 304, Edelbrock cam and efi. It made 200hp at the rear tire (37's). It ran hard. A 4v carb should make similar power.
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Its got an edelbrock 4 barrel on it right now, but im looking at the FI tech 400HP TBI setup, I just got done setting on up in a buddies K20 and it was easy. Hopefully the fuel curve can accommodate the little 200hp 5.0
BTW UPS just notified me my Bilsteins have arrived
too bad my welder is here at my shop im doing more work on my friends 03 F150 that I SAS'd
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:51 AM   #10 (permalink)
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SLow updates but i've been doing stuff i promise

stripped and welded up all the holes in the Dash and sprayed it Desert Tan
got my lockers in and the front end together and bought a 1980 ScoutII box. I have big plans

Sprayed some cheap 17" Jegs 8's IM going to weld on some DIY beadlocks but i had to get this thing rolling

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Old 09-11-2016, 11:56 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Drug the Chassis up next to my tub and got the high steer arms on and measured for my tube and got my shocks tacked in place. I've gotta pull the fan and make my hoop from one side ot the other but this is helping me get my steering figured out


Im running a 78 Scout II box with a WJ pitman arm and yeh I plated and sleeved the frame. THink im gonna have to run a waggy arm for clearance or bumpstop the hell out of it

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Old 09-27-2016, 06:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Got the steering done,


and the front driveshaft made



and ordered my rear CV shaft today

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Old 03-11-2017, 09:34 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Hunting season took up alot of my time this year, Painted and sold the comanche and bought a cheap super dirty to pull my XJ around



I got my Adams Driveshaft in and mounted my new CJ7 tank 180* out. Idk i've never like the fuel fill on the back and im not gonna comp cut it so it should be fine to run a TJ filler neck

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Old 03-11-2017, 09:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Also you will notice i got my exhaust done and fuel system done-ish

Undercoated this POS tub im gonna run

its like 90% patch panels

and threw it all together with a daystar 1" body lift

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Old 03-11-2017, 09:43 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Last weekend I got my Brake system 75% done, Running a 99 GMC savannah 3500 hydroboost and a 1972 P20 master, willwood adjustable prop valve.

because i ran the 1980 scoutII box i just bought the OEM 99 GMC lines and Powersteering pump and didnt have to adapt anything

the last of my junk from speedway motors is on order to get my clutch line buttoned up and my 30" AN lines for the front brakes

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Old 03-11-2017, 09:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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my other buddy hit a pretty large tree with his 94XJ so i commandeered his steering column, i had to modify the brake pedal but as of 20 minutes ago i can steer my CJ7 again.... first time in 2 years




oh yeh and a 1994 XJ steering shaft worked great, just had to collapse it like 3"
splined right up with the 1980 ScoutII box

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Old 03-13-2017, 11:52 AM   #17 (permalink)
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SO i spent alot of time on this small piece of the puzzle but the dash vin stickers on these stupid CJ's from the mid 70's are crappy so i made new ones from scratch



And i love how fast speedway motors shipping is, my kevlar brake lines are here

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Old 03-18-2017, 08:44 PM   #18 (permalink)
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finally at the stage to get it running, pulled the grill back off and notched the PS pump bracket to match my 99 GM pump, pulled the fann and the belts



Oh and the reason im pulling everything is that the wife got me the 150-400hp FI-tech and a summit HEI dist for my birthday.... she's a keeper

Last edited by Tacedaddy; 08-27-2017 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 03-19-2017, 06:35 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacedaddy View Post
Im running a 78 Scout II box with a WJ pitman arm and yeh I plated and sleeved the frame. THink im gonna have to run a waggy arm for clearance or bumpstop the hell out of it
Probably WAY late to the party on this, but if you are still trying to work clearance issues with the pitman arm you may want to check out the pitman arm from a 90-2000's GMC/Chevy Express Van. These are actually raised instead of flat or dropped and fit a normal Saginaw box like a TJ/YJ, so they are likely to fit your box if a Waggy fits. Length-wise they are the same as a TJ ( ~ 5.5" C-C). You can get them from regular parts store for ~ $40.

Here's the link to the one I am using in my build:
MasterPro Chassis K6653 - Pitman Arm | O'Reilly Auto Parts
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Old 03-19-2017, 09:43 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Length is gonna be the thing. With my highsteer arms the WJ arm is already a little short but at full compression turned left my steering will contact the pitman arm. An Inch longer arm would probably do it but im still gonna have to bump stop like crazy.

looking like ill have 4" of uptravel and my driveshaft binding will limit my droop
anyone have any luck running the tom woods offset U-joints?


the image is decieving I have over an 1" clearance between the U-bolt plate and steering rod even lock to lock

Last edited by Tacedaddy; 08-27-2017 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:17 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Pulled the valve covers, intake, dist, alt, and waterpump off today after work and for an engine that sat in a field 3 years and in my driveway/yard for 2.5. It was clean as hell

someone has built it in the last 10 years because it has felpro multilayer steel headgaskets and everything looked new

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Old 03-22-2017, 02:16 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Got the PS pump on, I am fond of how much room the Scout box freed up between my framerails up front and not having to force a steering shaft through the header was nice too

I think I will mount my bump cans on the inside of the frame rails but i cant find a trick way to put bump stop plates on top of the ruff stuff spring plates, i would ask for suggestions but im pretty much talking to myself at this point.

I suppose ill machine something to countersink nuts into with a smooth top

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Old 04-05-2017, 01:27 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I did a thing today, I love CJ's but the one thing i hate most is the headlights and how far they stick out. People paint the bezels and replace the lenses but no-one bothers to clean up the front end

I had to weld up a bunch of 1980's holes for chrome bits that were screwed to the front anyways so i started with tacking on some washers to the OEM mounts and then using 1/4" hardward and some aluminum 1.5" nutserts as sleeves. I spaced the light as far rear-ward as possible




so then i got to deal with the outer part of the headlight housing



just a little notching and the rad slides right in

Cutout my own bezels from aluminum and attached them



then went and sprayed it Desert tan


and painted my little 2x4 bumper i made on sunday... still have to get D-Ring mounts and a tire carrier on it but its calling for rain so I spraybombed everything

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Old 04-05-2017, 03:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Dig the recessed lights in the grill. Gives me an idea for when I put my CJ front clip to use! Keep at it man we're still following along
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Old 04-05-2017, 06:37 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Headlights look awesome!!

subbed for updates.
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