Eliminator LJ Build - 112" Stretch, 40" MT/R's, Tera CRD 60's - Page 4 - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
 
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:12 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by giles45shop View Post
Really nice build! I feel your pain on trying to figure out the front stretch, hi-steer and making everything it. I ended up stretching the front of mine 6" forward, using the frame horns from Brave Motorsports. Build details here:
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep...etch-more.html

I'm really interested in what you did in the back. My plan is to run 2.5" coilovers in the back as well, and I have been going back and forth on putting a tank in the bed or leaving it under the tub. I already have the Blue Torch Fab tank under the back, so I have lots of room to stretch the wheelbase back, but as you found out, the 2.5's are not going to fit with a stock width frame. So it's either ditch that tank and go to a fuel cell in the bed or do like you did and narrow a section of the frame.

It looks like you had some pre-made pieces to join the various pieces of straight tubing. Was this something you designed & fabbed or is it something that's commercially available?
Hey Giles, super late on this response. Sry about that. Will definitely check out your build once I get caught up on a few more posts here. Looking forward to seeing how everyones rigs have progressed over that past two years.

The back half ended up working out really well! It was a lot of extra work, but having the bigger shock bodies and still being able to run a fuel tank under the body was well worth it alone. Not to mention you can choose your rear wheelbase length, making it so you can get a nice even stretch between front and rear axles.

Correct, the pre-made pieces were something I purchased locally from Brian at 4x4Outlet. It's a nice kit that allows you to set the wheelbase and run a traditional tank instead of fuel cell taking up valuable real estate in the body.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DougB View Post
Subbed. I am in the process of gathering parts and researching putting 1 tons under my LJ, too.

Is that back-half kit from Brian at 4x4Outlet?

Also, did you stay with the stock Merc. box with the TNT front stretch kit?

Thanks.
DougB, hows progress coming for you?

Yes, the backhalf kit is from Brian at 4x4Outlet.

My steering box is an aftermarket PSC box in the 3 Bolt style. I believe the Merc box is 4 bolt, but I could be wrong. Someone chime in if they know?

Last edited by Uncle_T; 03-20-2019 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:14 AM   #77 (permalink)
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How's the progress coming?
Lots of updates! Posting more shortly....
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:36 AM   #78 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Uncle_T View Post
DougB, hows progress coming for you?

Yes, the backhalf kit is from Brian at 4x4Outlet.

My steering box is an aftermarket PSC box in the 3 Bolt style. I believe the Merc box is 4 bolt, but I could be wrong. Someone chime in if they know?
Wish I had a lot of progress to report, but as you stated, life happens. I should paint my LJ white because my build moves at glacial speed.

I've started at least. Working on getting 01+ rear disc brakes with the internal-rotor-hat e-brake on my mid 90's dually 14B. Having to make custom axle brackets to fit the new backing plates. Also got centering rings for the slide-on rotors.
Should come out really nice when done. I don't have a build thread because again, glacial speed. I am taking photos so I can put one up eventually.

I've got a garage full of parts though!

I may look into that same backhalf kit once I get my axles ready to go in. Going to outboard the shocks and stay with coils. Decided to go shocks and coils after much debate on COs and ORIs.

I believe you're right on the steering box bolts. The TNT kit doesn't work with the Merc box without some customization. I am not sure yet if I want to do a front stretch. I should do it since this would be the time to do it.
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Old 03-20-2019, 01:00 PM   #79 (permalink)
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With the wheel wells now trimmed up, I decided to work on making brackets to mount the gas tank. In front of the tank I added a 2x3 crossmember in which the lip of the tank skid plate will mount.

Mount is pictured belowÖ itís a bit overkill because the LJ used to drag ass over every rock. Iím thinking with the tank now mounted back and 40Ē tires, my departure angle is much better, therefore I could have gone lighter on the mount. Either way, it is stout.


Here you can see the skid plate and bracket mocked into position on crossmember. Note: gussets are not shown in this pic because I had not yet welded them when pic taken.


Next I cut some plates that will be welded to the rear crossmember. The lip of the tank skid will mount to the underside of these plates.


This pic shows where the plates will be attached. I made sure to let the plate overhang be as minimal as possible, just enough to accommodate bolts on the top side to mount the gas tank.


Side shot of the mounting surface. You can see I will be adding another plate to strengthen the inside of the crossmember since there will be upward pressure exerted when the tank contacts rocks. Note: inner plate not clamped to crossmember in pic.


I added triangular gussets to support the lower plate. Now welded into place.
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Old 03-20-2019, 01:05 PM   #80 (permalink)
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And like that we have a tank hanging on its own! Could have taken a better underside picture, but you can see it under there. Also, took this picture to show how the back half kit comes outboard of the body to accommodate the stock tank. For those catching up, the inboard portion of the frame accommodates the larger shock bodies (2.5Ē COís). This is best of both worlds, prevents from having to use a fuel cell and still get to use the big body shocks.




Next I cut out a paper shape of the gas cap/filler holder. This was used to mark the location where the gas filler neck was relocated with the tank moved rearward.


New gas filler hole marked. The straight line markings are where I will be trimming to maximize up-travel. Canít possibly go any higher without doing major body work as the fenders would open up to inside body. I was excited to see the new suspension articulation take the jeep to the limits of what can be achieved on a stock body, without body modification.


Gas filler hole cut and filler mounted.
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Old 03-20-2019, 02:28 PM   #81 (permalink)
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With the rear end mostly finished (Still need to tie top of rear shock mounts into cage), I decided to switch gears and go back to working on the front.

I had a nice set of color matched front tube fenders that are not hi-line style. Here were the options: 1) Keep fenders and modify into highline style. The downside with this option would be damage the professional paint job modifying them. 2) Run the fenders how they currently sit, however Iím almost certain Iíll have clearance issues during articulation. 3) Sell the fenders and put the cash toward a new set or other parts.

After test fitting them in the original low line position I could immediately tell they wouldnít work. Too much up travel with tires that are too bigÖ bad problem to have . This rules out option #2.

Using wood blocks I positioned the fenders in an approximate highline position to see if they would be in the ball park for clearance.



With the axle at approximately full bump you can see there is not much room. Once the axle articulates it will be even closer.


Ultimately I figured out well before full articulation the tires were contacting fenders. Even if I trimmed the hood and modified my existing fenders, the tires would still contact. This rules out option #1.



I donít want the fenders to be the limit on up-travel, so with that said, the fenders had to go. Pulled the fenders and sold them on Craigslist.
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Old 03-21-2019, 12:20 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Great build! Looking forward to seeing more progress

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Old 03-22-2019, 09:55 AM   #83 (permalink)
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How about a Cambell hood.

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Old 03-22-2019, 05:47 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Uncle_T View Post
With the rear end mostly finished (Still need to tie top of rear shock mounts into cage), I decided to switch gears and go back to working on the front.



I had a nice set of color matched front tube fenders that are not hi-line style. Here were the options: 1) Keep fenders and modify into highline style. The downside with this option would be damage the professional paint job modifying them. 2) Run the fenders how they currently sit, however Iím almost certain Iíll have clearance issues during articulation. 3) Sell the fenders and put the cash toward a new set or other parts.



After test fitting them in the original low line position I could immediately tell they wouldnít work. Too much up travel with tires that are too bigÖ bad problem to have . This rules out option #2.



Using wood blocks I positioned the fenders in an approximate highline position to see if they would be in the ball park for clearance.







With the axle at approximately full bump you can see there is not much room. Once the axle articulates it will be even closer.





Ultimately I figured out well before full articulation the tires were contacting fenders. Even if I trimmed the hood and modified my existing fenders, the tires would still contact. This rules out option #1.







I donít want the fenders to be the limit on up-travel, so with that said, the fenders had to go. Pulled the fenders and sold them on Craigslist.

Whats your plan for fenders? I'm running Genright gen II highline fenders and I love the look/functionality. I first tried the Metalcloaks but for 39+ tires and the flex of long arms specially moving the front axle up front they were not enough for me so I sold them and tried the Genrights and I can't be more happy...
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Last edited by Jorge Meza; 03-22-2019 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 07:59 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Wish I had a lot of progress to report, but as you stated, life happens. I should paint my LJ white because my build moves at glacial speed.

I've started at least. Working on getting 01+ rear disc brakes with the internal-rotor-hat e-brake on my mid 90's dually 14B. Having to make custom axle brackets to fit the new backing plates. Also got centering rings for the slide-on rotors.
Should come out really nice when done. I don't have a build thread because again, glacial speed. I am taking photos so I can put one up eventually.

I've got a garage full of parts though!

I may look into that same backhalf kit once I get my axles ready to go in. Going to outboard the shocks and stay with coils. Decided to go shocks and coils after much debate on COs and ORIs.

I believe you're right on the steering box bolts. The TNT kit doesn't work with the Merc box without some customization. I am not sure yet if I want to do a front stretch. I should do it since this would be the time to do it.
Cool, E-brake on the 14B would be nice. Definitely post pics. Always fun to see a fellow LJ build.

If you're looking to gain wheelbase length, the front stretch was definitely easier than the backhalf, but the TNT front kit has a limit on how far you can stretch. The back half was nice because you could pretty much make it any length. My personal opinion is that if anyone's plan is to swap to a larger axle (D60) with the tie-rod mounted at axle center line or higher then the front stretch is a must (for rotating steering box out of way). Otherwise you'll have very limited up travel.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:10 AM   #86 (permalink)
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I still needed to set the bump stops on the front, so I was experimenting with axle height. Here is the axle in the approximate full bump location (with axle parallel to floor).


Wheels off to locate bump stops.


Made an idiot mistake when working with one of the jack stands. I was stretched out trying to manage a floor jack and reach a jack stand. While pulling the release leaver to lower the stand a few notches my finger got guillotined. Chalk up a missing fingernail to the project.


While cycling the axle and doing final checks, I noticed the tie rod was contacting the frameside trackbar mount. Made a slight adjustment to clearance.



Clearance is tight! Trying to gain every ounce of performance here.


Bottom of radiator to drag link.


Double checking the shock angles on the front as we are getting down to final location on placement for many of the components.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:27 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Great build! Looking forward to seeing more progress
Thanks AccuTune! I'm actually running some PAC springs from you guys. When I was calculating spring rates, etc, you guys were extremely helpful on the phone. Shipment arrived fast too.

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How about a Cambell hood.
Love the Campbell hood. Exactly the look I'm going for with this rig. The goal is to keep it minimal looking.

Last edited by Uncle_T; 03-25-2019 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:46 AM   #88 (permalink)
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Whats your plan for fenders? I'm running Genright gen II highline fenders and I love the look/functionality. I first tried the Metalcloaks but for 39+ tires and the flex of long arms specially moving the front axle up front they were not enough for me so I sold them and tried the Genrights and I can't be more happy...
For fenders, I'm using a Swag Press brake (purchased with funds from the sale of the original fenders) to cut/bend some sheet steel to fill the gaps behind the wheels. I'm keeping it really simple looking with no flare. It will look similar to the Campbell hood style, but without using an actual campbell hood.

Good to know about the Metal Cloaks not working for you after doing front end work. I always wondered about those, because they don't look like a true highline as the hood remains uncut. Good pick on the Genrights, I really dig the classic tube fender look.

I may eventually do similar to you and purchase as set, but for now going to see how the custom fenders work out.
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:49 AM   #89 (permalink)
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Drilled stock pitman arm to accommodate the ĺĒ heim joint. I will come back at a later time to tig a piece of steel onto the arm to make it double shear. For now this will suffice.

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Old 03-25-2019, 08:55 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Noticed the factory battery tray was interfering with the tire during articulation.





Decided to modify the battery tray to clear the tire. First I cut it in half, then shifted the front half upward until it cleared. Tacked together, then welded.



I should have taken a pic of the final product, but sprayed semi gloss black and mounted back on the firewall you could barely tell anything had been modified with an untrained eye.
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Old 03-30-2019, 10:49 AM   #91 (permalink)
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Tacked front bump stops into optimal location. Then burned in the bungs on the drag link, tie rod, control arms and track bar. Also welded the 3/16Ē frame plate reinforcements onto frame.



Trackbar mount burned in. Things were really starting to move now!


Send it! Control arm mounts burned in.
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Old 03-30-2019, 10:50 AM   #92 (permalink)
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Also, drilled the drive side hi steer arm to make it double shear.


Made a few tabs to mount above the frameside control arm bracket. These tabs essentially connect the upper and lower control arm brackets and strengthen the system.

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Old 03-30-2019, 10:53 AM   #93 (permalink)
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Next it was time to get the PSC hydro assist ram mounted. I created mounting tabs for the track bar and axle using trusty cardboard aided design.




Bad picture quality, but here is the ram mounted to the tie rod.


Ram mounted to axle tube.


Overall, Iím happy with the location. The sits behind the tie-rod and the tie-rod sits well above the axle tub low point.
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Old 03-31-2019, 01:22 PM   #94 (permalink)
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With a majority of the front end done, it made sense to work on building a front shock mount cross brace.

I cut and notched some more 1.75x.120 Dom and added some tabs from RuffStuff to make the brace removable.


The brace is shown below in the approximate position before tacking.


Brace welded together. I donít have a tube bender so you can see I used straight cuts for the shock hoops and crossbrace. Itís probably time I pony up for a bender.



Funny thing isÖ I went out for Chinese food and would you lookey loo at the fortune cookie I received! How fitting.
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Old 03-31-2019, 01:28 PM   #95 (permalink)
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With the shock brace in place, I moved onto fitting the air intake. I had a Banks Cold Air intake that I reworked to fit in the new space. With the crossbrace in the way, the intake had to be cut and repositioned.

Original intake tube with first cut.


Second cut.


Third cut. I saved the section with the PCV fitting in order to maintain functionality.


After jingle jangling things around. The optimal position was found.



It ended up fitting nicely. Looks like the intake was meant for that spot.
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Old 03-31-2019, 01:47 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Having the intake and crossbrace situated in their new home, I began placing the coilover reservoirs. It was a tight fit under the hood, but everything fit well.


It’s amazing how long all this stuff takes to complete. I had to futz around for a while to figure out optimal fitment.



For now I used the rubber mounts provided by FOX. Later I went back and added RuffStuff metal reservoir mounts.


Very cool to step back and see things looking cleaned up in the engine area.


Last edited by Uncle_T; 03-31-2019 at 01:58 PM.
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Old 03-31-2019, 01:57 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Took some time to regather and sell off a few items. Sold the old Warn front bumper and rear tire carrier.


Got measurements and had the rear Tom Woods driveshaft lengthened. Also had a 1350 CV joint added to the pinion side of the front drive shaft.

Front driveshaft connected.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:11 PM   #98 (permalink)
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At this point Iím sure your ready for a little peep show of the jeeps stance. With the tires back on I pulled out the tape measure to see how long the wheelbase ended up while on itís own weight.


The final wheel base length is a generous 112Ē inches.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:57 PM   #99 (permalink)
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You will like that WB. Mine is a shy 112" on 39" KR2 Stickies. Some of my friends are at 100 to 108" and I'm able to climb many places with less effort. It just seems to work right. A couple other LJ's are @114". Evan better in some places.
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Old 03-31-2019, 04:52 PM   #100 (permalink)
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What did the bottom of the frame height and top of the windshield end up being?
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