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Old 03-31-2017, 11:57 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BeatCJ View Post
Crap. I have a blasted tub that needs a little rust repair, a new step brace and two new wheelhouses. I really should do this. Crap.

Yours looks great, damn you!
Do it! You're already in deep. haha

Last edited by jri93; 03-31-2017 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 03-31-2017, 12:02 PM   #27 (permalink)
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nice work on the body
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Old 03-31-2017, 01:46 PM   #28 (permalink)
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nice work on the body
thanks!
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Old 03-31-2017, 02:38 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Do it! You'r already in TOO deep. haha
Thanks, FIFY
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:45 PM   #30 (permalink)
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So the stock D44 that was in the jeep has the correct gearing i need plus a limited slip already in it. Where as the the scout II d44 has the wrong gearing and i think it is open diff.

So my question is can i take the guts out of the Jeep D44 and put them in the scout D44? I did some google searches and i believe the answer is yes, but i just figured i would get your guys thoughts.

Also how bad is the stock jeep limited slip vs. say a detroit locker?
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Old 04-01-2017, 06:57 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Awesome man! I just bought this bucket today so I'll be following along. My build will be leaning more towards a crawler but you've already given me some ideas.
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Old 04-01-2017, 11:07 PM   #32 (permalink)
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nice! looks like you have your work cut out for you. haha
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:16 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Was able to mock up the tank positioning this past weekend and build the mounts for it. Also started mocking up rear axle location and making some measurements for spring mounts.
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Old 04-04-2017, 09:57 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Got the fixed end mounted, trying to see where i need to mount the shackle end. I am thinking basically to have it straight up and down when the spring is in its natural position (no weight on springs)

Anyone see anything wrong with this? it is a 5 in. shackle. Spring will stretch out approx 4 in. longer than its natural position when flat.
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Old 04-05-2017, 03:10 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Cool build. I like where your head is. I've been building something similar for the past few years. You may be finished before me.
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:25 PM   #36 (permalink)
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We have a roller.

This is just for mock up purposes, once i set the body on the frame to confirm axle placement, i will be pulling it back apart to fully weld and plate the frame.

I noticed i am going to have an issue with the front pumpkin hitting the frame rail at full bump so i need to decide to either notch the frame or adjust the bump stop (losing up travel in the process). What have others who ran scout axles in cj's done to address this?

Also, what is with the front camber? It looks like it is positive. Are there inserts to offset the ball joint or something to adjust this? I have not taken it apart to look but i didn't see anything

Lastly, what is the easiest way to cycle the suspension to test for clearance and stuff?? on independent suspension vehicles we just remove the coilsprings or coilover, but i have never done a leafspring build. I already removed all but the main spring, but it is still hard to compress, i can put my full body weight on it and it does not bottom out. I need to compress the rear to make sure my bumpkin is going to clear the cross member (it is close) and also i would like to articulate the front and rear to check tire clearance on the body ect...
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Old 04-26-2017, 09:49 AM   #37 (permalink)
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My old Scott 44's had a degree shim of sorts to set camber. Round shim that fit between knuckle and spindle, that was tapered. You can get them at Napa (I think).

I've used a ratchet strap between the frame and axle to compress leaf springs. If your shop has pull pots in the floor, then frame to floor.
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Old 05-09-2017, 11:14 PM   #38 (permalink)
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got the body set on the frame to check wheel alignment in the wheel wells and got my first glimpse of what it might look like. (keep in mind these are just some old 32's used for mock up, it will be sitting on 35's in the end)

Once i confirmed everything was in the correct spot i was able to start doing the final welding on the frame. I am almost done with all that now, and then will be moving on to building the axles.
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Old 05-17-2017, 09:41 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Excellent work on the frame! That is beefy!
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:52 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Excellent work on the frame! That is beefy!
thanks!

here is another pic of the frame being finished up and then a couple of it all done sitting next to the stock frame for comparison.

Now moving on to rebuilding these crapped out D44's i picked up. The axles were nasty!
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Old 06-30-2017, 12:39 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Have not updated in a while because not much has changed from a "looks" perspective. But I have finished rebuilding both front and rear axles with all new bearing races seals ect. 4.27 gears, Spartan locker in the rear, limited slip in the front.

I have been held up for a couple weeks when i ran into a snag with the original "Lock-o-matic" hubs, ended up ditching them and ordering a set of Warn Premiums. Also have been waiting on inner wheel bearings as the first ones i had ended up being wrong. Once those arrive i can finish assembling the hubs and get the front tires mounted for real. Did move forward a bit and built the front grill mount.

Speaking of tires, picked up a nice new set of BFG 35's with procomp steel wheels. Once i had those i could not resist the urge to throw the body back on to get a peak at how it is going to look.

Next steps after i button up the front hub situation is to build motor and trans mounts, then mount the steering box and figure out the steering situation. I am trying to decide if i should go with the classic Chevy 1 ton tie rod ends and using some 1.5in tube with weld in bungs. The problem is by the time i pay for the dumb GM ball join reaming tool it is the same cost as buying Heims. With Heims i could do a true cross over set up instead of inverted T or what ever its called. Anyone have thoughts on this?
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Old 07-31-2017, 05:27 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Got a good amount of work done the last couple weekends. Ended up having to get a new timing chain cover for the 304 and wanted to get the oil pan closed up before setting it in the vehicle, so new timing chain cover, and new water pump bolted on with oil pan.

Got the motor and trans in place and was able to fab up the motor mounts, and trans cross member. Also got the steering box mounted. However the steering shaft is making contact with the frame. So i need to decide whether to notch the frame, or use a different steering shaft with an extra u-joint.

My earlier concern about the front pumpkin hitting the frame is now moot because after setting the engine in place i see that the pumpkin will collide with the oil pump / filter at about the same time. Oh well, I can squeeze out about 4 or 5 inches of up travel how it is now depending on final ride height, i think that is pretty good for SUA with minimal lift.

Next up is drag link and tie rod. Still debating on Heims vs TRE's but probably just going to go with the GM 1-ton tie rods.

On a side note, I am starting to think about the cage and i have read pretty much every thread out there but never saw this specific question or thought brought up. Everyone talks about the importance of cage tie ins which i can see if your seats and seat belt are mounted to the cab. However, it seems that if you have your seats and seat belts mounted to the cage, that the tie ins would not be important. Even if the cage were to separate from the car, you are still protected because your seat and harness will go where ever the cage goes, is there something i am not taking into consideration?
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Old 08-31-2017, 12:01 AM   #43 (permalink)
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sub'd, I bought your harnesses
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Old 08-31-2017, 02:09 PM   #44 (permalink)
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sub'd, I bought your harnesses
Cool, yea man it was nice meeting you. Do you have a build thread yet?

I should have some more updates soon. I haven't had a ton of time the last few weeks to work on it but i did manage to get the steering all finished and transmission and transfer case rebuilt and painted.
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Old 08-31-2017, 02:44 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Cool, yea man it was nice meeting you. Do you have a build thread yet?

I should have some more updates soon. I haven't had a ton of time the last few weeks to work on it but i did manage to get the steering all finished and transmission and transfer case rebuilt and painted.
Yea its the 5.3 stretched yj
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Old 09-01-2017, 10:57 AM   #46 (permalink)
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nice build
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Old 09-01-2017, 02:35 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Nice job.

I'm a little late but I cut the "C's" off my scout front and rotated them to keep the pinion up and have around 5 degrees of I think positive caster?
(rotated them back)

On the roll bar I would tie it into the frame. I wouldn't want to be separated from the frame in a roll over.
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:11 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Nice job.

I'm a little late but I cut the "C's" off my scout front and rotated them to keep the pinion up and have around 5 degrees of I think positive caster?
(rotated them back)

On the roll bar I would tie it into the frame. I wouldn't want to be separated from the frame in a roll over.
thanks, yea i did the same thing with the C's.
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Old 11-02-2017, 08:12 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Been spending a lot of time getting things "buttoned up". Suspension is all fully installed, Steering is fully installed. Transfer case and trans rebuilt with new gaskets and nice paint, Engine and trans installed for good (I hope). Also got the bump stops mounted, and front driveshaft rebuilt and installed.
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Old 11-02-2017, 08:14 PM   #50 (permalink)
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