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Old 01-23-2020, 05:35 PM   #151 (permalink)
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Was able to get the headlights and blinkers all wired and working. Had a few electrical problems to sort with the blinkers but got it figured out. First the blinkers were not blinking (had to get special flashers made for led lights) and then both the front blinkers were flashing at the same time, which i found was because i had both the turn signal indicators wired into one light on the dash. I had to install a couple diodes to stop the current from backfeeding from one light to the other and now that is working. then when turning the wheel one direction it was not disengaging the blinker automatically, so i had to take the steering wheel off and disassemble part of the steering column to find a busted spring that I replaced. Had to buy a special $16 steering lock plate removal tool to replace a $2 spring Anyway, that was all fun.

I also have the hood and fenders on now but don't have a photo at the moment.
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Last edited by jri93; 01-23-2020 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 02-12-2020, 04:46 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Was able to drive the jeep down to the end of my street and back.

three main issues so far...

-steering box leaking like crazy and tons of slop in it. I have a new one on order.
-clutch slave cylinder rod not long enough, not fully disengaging clutch causing gears to grind.
-transfer case wont shift into 4L (i think the linkage is too worn, I am going to verify that it is the linkage and if so probably just swap for a twin stick.

Then it will be ready for another test drive. The good news is the motor seems to run great. Fired right up the first time and after a couple small adjustments is idling smooth and sounds great.

Will get some pics up soon. Still have several small things to finish up as well as sorting out these other issues.
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Old 02-12-2020, 05:44 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Nice build, I like that original AMC V-8, you are getting close. Congrats!
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Old 02-12-2020, 05:52 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Nice build, I like that original AMC V-8, you are getting close. Congrats!
Thanks! yes it is weird to finally see the light at the end of the tunnel . After over 3 years. It seems every project I have taken on in life has gotten consecutively larger in scope. I am afraid for whatever is next...
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Old 02-17-2020, 11:46 AM   #155 (permalink)
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was able to take it for the first real test drive today. Put about 3 miles on it.

Couple more issues to shake out, the plate i made to stiffen up the fire wall was not thick enough and the firewall has way more flex than i would like when pushing the clutch pedal in. so i am redoing that with a much thicker plate. Also had some weird issue where the brakes wouldn't release their pressure. I opened up the bleeder valve on each side and that relieved it, and they seem to be working fine now so well see.

The springs are soft. I think it would be amazing off road, but i am a little concerned about high speed stability. even just going around a corner at slow speed it leans a few inches to the side. and i don't even have the spare tire or winch on yet. Might have to look into getting sway bars or an add-a-leaf.

Still need to mount winch and make a front bumper. also need to mount tire carrier and roof rack.

I am a little disappointed with the driveability of this T18 transmission. The throw is so far it is difficult to find the gears and shifting is very slow. on top of that, the gear spacing is so far apart shifting from 2nd to 3rd it is hard not to bog unless you really rev it out in second. I will give it some more time but maybe someday will need to look into a more modern 5 speed transmission with overdrive
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Old 02-17-2020, 02:48 PM   #156 (permalink)
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What about a Ford diesel T-19? You wouldn't have the really low granny first, but 4 synchronized gears, 4.02 first gear, with better splits. I used an '87 F-350 with that transmission as my daily for years. I forget all of you exact particulars, but I bet it would probably swap right in.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:19 PM   #157 (permalink)
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What about a Ford diesel T-19? You wouldn't have the really low granny first, but 4 synchronized gears, 4.02 first gear, with better splits. I used an '87 F-350 with that transmission as my daily for years. I forget all of you exact particulars, but I bet it would probably swap right in.
thanks, I will look into that if it comes to that. I did some more reading and it seems everyone loves these things, so maybe i just need to get used to it. I will give it a solid chance. I have plenty of other things to worry about in the mean time.
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:46 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Meh. I have driven full size trucks with the T-18 and T-19, I have to say I enjoyed the T-19, and drove with the T-18. I doubt it's better in a Jeep. In my mind, the T-18 was best when matched to the old Ford I-300. I know, people are going to be chasing me as a heretic. Compound low was a huge advantage, but I don't think you intended yours as a rock crawler.

FWIW, the first several Jeeps I drove all had 3 speeds, flat fender, '73 CJ-5, Willys Wagon, and those were better transmissions than a T-18, in my mind.
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Old 02-18-2020, 01:36 PM   #159 (permalink)
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I read back into your thread. I had forgotten your T-18 and D-20 were already mated when you got them. The T-19 would have to be converted to bolt in. Another good 4 speed choice would be a T-177. They were OEM Jeep with a D-300, but not to the D-20. More converting, or buying and finding parts. Probably best to use it the way it is for a while, and if you can't live with it, figure out an answer.
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Old 02-21-2020, 01:41 PM   #160 (permalink)
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I read back into your thread. I had forgotten your T-18 and D-20 were already mated when you got them. The T-19 would have to be converted to bolt in. Another good 4 speed choice would be a T-177. They were OEM Jeep with a D-300, but not to the D-20. More converting, or buying and finding parts. Probably best to use it the way it is for a while, and if you can't live with it, figure out an answer.
yea that's the plan.

working out other small bugs right now that are more important.

Also need to fab up some sort of side view mirrors, a front bumper and mount winch and coolant reservoir.

Need to install my twinstick linkage that came in earlier this week too.

So much to do , no freakin time!
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Old 02-24-2020, 12:59 PM   #161 (permalink)
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Alright so weird problem, maybe someone has some input.

After the first test drive, I came back into the driveway and realized that i had significant brake drag. So much so I couldn't even get the car to roll. the only way i was able to release the pressure was to open the bleeder screws on both front calipers. I also had brake fluid leaking out the top of the master cylinder. I thought maybe the fluid was too full, so I removed some and then took it for a short test drive and it all seemed fine.

yesterday i took it for a longer test drive. Maybe 2 or 3 miles. When i got back to the house, i shut it off and noticed it was dragging again. Again had to open the bleeders to release the pressure. Also had fluid coming out the reservoir again.

Is my fluid level just too high? Would that cause this? Right now it probably at least 1/4 in below the top of the reservoir.

Edit: Also, even after opening the reservoir, the pressure does not release until i open the bleeder valves. What could be stopping the pressure from releasing back up into the reservoir like it normally would when you let your foot off the brake?

Last edited by jri93; 02-24-2020 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 02-24-2020, 01:23 PM   #162 (permalink)
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I'm glad to see you have it driving. Hopefully you'll get the brakes figured out shortly.

I just replaced my 57 CJ5 with a 61 CJ6, seemed a lot easier than going through the work of stretching the tub lol.
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Old 02-24-2020, 03:36 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jri93 View Post
Alright so weird problem, maybe someone has some input.

After the first test drive, I came back into the driveway and realized that i had significant brake drag. So much so I couldn't even get the car to roll. the only way i was able to release the pressure was to open the bleeder screws on both front calipers. I also had brake fluid leaking out the top of the master cylinder. I thought maybe the fluid was too full, so I removed some and then took it for a short test drive and it all seemed fine.

yesterday i took it for a longer test drive. Maybe 2 or 3 miles. When i got back to the house, i shut it off and noticed it was dragging again. Again had to open the bleeders to release the pressure. Also had fluid coming out the reservoir again.

Is my fluid level just too high? Would that cause this? Right now it probably at least 1/4 in below the top of the reservoir.

Edit: Also, even after opening the reservoir, the pressure does not release until i open the bleeder valves. What could be stopping the pressure from releasing back up into the reservoir like it normally would when you let your foot off the brake?
It sounds like a residual pressure valve like for rear drums which would be in a prop valve or the master, I don't remember what are you running for a master?
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:25 PM   #164 (permalink)
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If the brake rod is too long going into the master it will cause this problem. I tried making the rod a longer because I was not getting full range on the brakes. Ended up being the pedal was hitting and not allowing full range.

Last edited by jjeep71; 02-24-2020 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:31 AM   #165 (permalink)
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It sounds like a residual pressure valve like for rear drums which would be in a prop valve or the master, I don't remember what are you running for a master?
I am running rear drums, front disks, and a power brake conversion kit from "the jeep guy" I believe the kit uses a master from an older corvette that came with front disk rear drums factory.

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If the brake rod is too long going into the master it will cause this problem. I tried making the rod a longer because I was not getting full range on the brakes. Ended up being the pedal was hitting and not allowing full range.
thanks, I do have an adjustable brake rod, so I will keep that in mind.
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Old 02-25-2020, 09:41 AM   #166 (permalink)
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Just found this in an article while doing some searching online. looks like JJeep71 might be on to something...

"Occasionally, a newly installed master cylinder will fail to release pressure from the brake hydraulic system and cause the brakes to either lock up or drag. In these cases, the forward lip seal has failed to retract past the compensator port due to a faulty adjustment on the brake booster push rod, or a bad adjustment of the brake light or cruise control vacuum break switch on the brake pedal lever. A quick way to test for piston retraction is to gently probe through the compensating port with the blunt end of a paperclip (see Photo 3). If the cylinder has an open-top reservoir, depressing the brake pedal should cause fluid to spurt from a momentarily open compensator port. Some master cylinders are very aggressive in this regard, so itís best to hold a shop rag over the reservoir to absorb the ejected brake fluid!"
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Old 02-26-2020, 09:16 AM   #167 (permalink)
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Curious as to what your overall length and track width ended up being on this build.
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Old 02-26-2020, 09:43 AM   #168 (permalink)
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Curious as to what your overall length and track width ended up being on this build.
overall length or wheel base? wheel base is about 104 inches. I would have to measure overall length.

track width I have to measure also but if i remember correctly the scout front is about 60" WMS-WMS which i think is about 7 inches wider than the stock cj5 front.
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Old 02-26-2020, 11:07 AM   #169 (permalink)
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Overall length. I'm planning a similar build, but an 8" stretch in the doors and a 12" stretch in the tub with Tons, from the frame up. Curious to know if it will still fit in my toyhauler. Did you ever rotate the inner c's on the front axle?
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Old 02-26-2020, 11:52 AM   #170 (permalink)
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Overall length. I'm planning a similar build, but an 8" stretch in the doors and a 12" stretch in the tub with Tons, from the frame up. Curious to know if it will still fit in my toyhauler. Did you ever rotate the inner c's on the front axle?
OK, i will try and get a measurement tonight. And yes i did rotate the C's.
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Old 02-27-2020, 11:31 AM   #171 (permalink)
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Overall length. I'm planning a similar build, but an 8" stretch in the doors and a 12" stretch in the tub with Tons, from the frame up. Curious to know if it will still fit in my toyhauler. Did you ever rotate the inner c's on the front axle?
160" from front to back (about 188" with the tire carrier and front bumper)
74" from out side of tire to out side of tire.
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:10 PM   #172 (permalink)
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160" from front to back (about 188" with the tire carrier and front bumper)
74" from out side of tire to out side of tire.
Thanks JRI93 I appreciate it
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Old 03-03-2020, 03:52 PM   #173 (permalink)
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A couple with the tire carrier and roof rack installed. Still need to build a front bumper and mount winch.

Springs are way too soft, sketchy driving anything over 45 mph. Will try the OME add-a-leafs first before resorting to sway bars.
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Old 03-04-2020, 03:13 AM   #174 (permalink)
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Build looks great dude. Love those frame and body stretches.
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Old 03-04-2020, 08:30 AM   #175 (permalink)
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Build looks great dude. Love those frame and body stretches.
thanks!
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