To start things off lets do a little back story. Bought the jeep back when I was 16 when it was more or less stock other than a tired small block Chev. Over the past 7 1/2 years I slowly built it into a more capable PNW style trail jeep. The last year of jeepin it started to become a bit of a hassle with tons of little things breaking/wearing out and I started to worry almost everytime I was gonna be "that guy". Never in its life having a full tear down, it was starting to show its age and I did my best to keep it together by strapping the frame after it broke, tied cage into frame, redid the suspension, etc. Anyways, here's the old girl.
TBI 350
Dana 44's F/R
t18
4.27's w/lunchbox lockers
Dana 20
Spring under rear with yj's
Spring over front front with toyota rears
Chromoly shafts
Redhead steering box
36 tsl's
Beautiful work!!
I know you said you use WD40 to keep the tubing clean, but you didn't say what you do to clean up all your tubing. Everything looks almost polished. Do you scrub everything down with a scotchbrite pad before bending?
Not before bending, but definitely give everything some scotchbrite attention after its all tacked and ready for pics Totally unnecessary lol but I'm weird and like a clean finish.
Been a minute since posting on here... Waiting on paychecks and parts is the norm recently. Ordered my alternator/PS pump relocation brackets from Goat Built and also some motor mounts. Current motor mounts I had in for mock were AME, but push the mounting tabs forward in order to use an off the shelf sbc style poly mount. Swapping these out will allow me to tied directly into the node where the shock hoop meets the frame rail. Tig'ed the outer joint to allow room for bolt head.
Then I finally got off my ass and started mounting the radiator. Not gonna lie I was dreading this like no other just because I knew everything was gonna be so tight. Got a stupid deal on a Flexalite LS conversion CJ radiator through work so figured I'd try my best to package it. Biggest issue I ran into was the hood being able to close completely and it not coming with a cap really created issues. Right now I have about 3/8" of clearance so hopefully a cap will clear, but if not I'll cut the neck off and massage it so it sits more flat and then I'l know for sure I'll have enough room.
Lets try this again. Started roughing in cage little by little. Drivers side needs to come down about a 1/4" to match the Pass and thinking lowering the entire cage a bit if I can manage. Need to get seats in to determine head room and what not.
Back and forth on it! Definitely lightens up the look of the front end with out, but would like some protection for the radiator in the event of a roll... Still undecided at this point haha
Started adding more tube to the cage Tuesday after work and on the first bend heard a pop. Bending was obviously came to a halt :mad3: I could've mig'd it but figure I needed to go into work on the 4th anyways so just prepped and ran 3 passes with the trusty tig.
Once that was fixed was able to jump back on the cage taking out the rake, adding the harness bar/bracing, etc. Seat still needs to come back about 3" and drop a little aswell.
Next dilema is door bars. What are your guys thoughts on a removable type style with aluminum door attached to the tube itself? I really want the safety aspect of them, but don't want it to be impossible for my grandpa to get in and out of.
Certain classes of drag cars can run opening door bars, up to a certain speed, I'm sure that you could Fab something up that would be strong, safe, and good looking. Then put a door panel on it? Yeah. Sounds good. Especially to take your grandpa for a ride...
Unless you're competing with it there is no reason a set of well designed tube doors can't be used and provide good side protection. Have them mounted into the cage, not the sheet metal. Cage is looking good btw.
DutchVDub, I checked out your link and that was sorta my original plan! However, one of my biggest pet peeves is rattling when mobbing down washboard or just moving down the trail. The door bars/doors will stay on 90% of the time so planning on using the two interlocking tube clamps, one up front and one towards the rear. Ill weld a small flange to the tube and attach the top of the aluminum door skin with a few rivets. The door will sit inside the factory door opening and will be secured along the lower perimeter with a few dzus's. Probably gonna be a pain in the ass to get on and off but if its once or twice a year I really don't mind. The old man is still young enough where he'll just have to climb over :laughing:
Climbing over a door bar getting in and out every time honestly doesn't bother me. Safety is my number one concern this time around with the build. If I were truly building the cage for myself the bars would stay one piece and probably already welded in. However, I want to be able to take my grandfather for a rip here and there and I know he would struggle to climb in and out. Jay said it best, "Should have built a buggy" :flipoff2: You pretty much won't see a single buggy out there without full height door bars and that pretty much what I'm building. Jeep skin shoe horned over a buggy chassis.
I really do appreciate the input, but I'm gonna run with this approach for now. If it does end up sucking ass, it'll only be two welds to cut out. Plus I like the arm rest haha
I think what you are doing will work. I also think if you really wanted, you could make a door stronger than that bar with a pin at the rear. (Think receiver pin) if you had a rubber pad that needed to be compressed alittle to get the pin in, there would be no rattle.
But it really depends on how often you use it. You are the only one who knows that.
Small update! I was out of town last weekend so not a whole lot got done and after grinding and welding at work all week during the day, its really hard to come home and continue.
However, rough cut the rear floor out and started getting some structure built back into it. Fender wells are raised and seats have been moved back. I'll be building a wedge shaped fuel that will be located right behind the seats (wood marks the back of cell). Fuel capacity comes out to just over 26 gallons and plan to have the cell divided into thirds with baffles. Center section will house a hydramat and trap doors will allow fuel to flow in from either side but not flow back out.
Then started to mess with mounting rear coilovers. Just a bent tube with a plate style mount just to keep everything simple. Wanting just a clean look and not trying to over complicate things. Probably gonna add a piece of 1-1/2" that ties the top of the mount into the upper corner of the cage. Thoughts?
What are your thoughts on the Holley Hydramat? Is it as good as it claims to be? Do you use it much at your work (AM)?
I've got a cell that measures 34.5" x 17.875" in plan view and was just thinking of a 1 gal collector with trap doors in the center rear but, I can't shake the thought that the Hydramat might actually be the cats ass and the way to go.
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