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Old 05-23-2018, 05:03 PM   #126 (permalink)
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Super nice. Highly evolved design style.
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Old 05-23-2018, 09:14 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Finished up the bumper tonight

[IMG]IMG_20180523_172109559 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180523_172116143 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180523_172143755 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180523_172518255 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

IMG_20180523_172645009 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180523_172734087 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180523_173223039 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180523_173235961 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180523_173332317 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 05-24-2018, 10:46 AM   #128 (permalink)
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:31 PM   #129 (permalink)
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Pulled the tub once again so snapped some pics of what i have going for the rear rails. My plan for the front of the rail is to have either have a piece of flat strap or a small pad that will be welded to the top of the 2x4 rail and bolt into the step in the tub.

Also changed up my plans to run two tanks under each seat to running it out back behind the rear seat. Will be even with top of the raised fenderwells and sink through the floor a few inches. Small tube work out back was to help maximize the size of tank I can run.

[IMG]IMG_20180531_173328439 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

IMG_20180531_173345458 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180531_173314778 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

And my ugly mug with the gold digger

[IMG]IMG_20180531_175331746 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 06-01-2018, 07:47 AM   #130 (permalink)
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Going to be a very cool rig once complete! Capable as a buggy but with all the comforts of a jeep when those elements don't play nice up in the northwest!
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:18 AM   #131 (permalink)
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Been getting antsy to actual get the rear end together so I can block it up and roll it out. Last week I finally found time at work on breaks and lunch to turn down my spindles to sleeve into the axle tubes. When I originally welded the housing I preloaded almost 3/8" and that helped bigtime in keeping it pretty straight. I turned the spindles down so they were 1/8" smaller than the ID of the axle to have a little wiggle room. On to pics!

[IMG]IMG_20180605_123154793 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

Wish I would've taken more pics during but was racing to weld during lunch break. Beveled like crazy and ran a 250 amp TIG root with a nice and hot MIG cover to match the rest of the housing.

[IMG]IMG_20180608_152446427 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180608_152346067 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

Outers all together and caliper mounts tacked on

[IMG]IMG_20180608_184453879 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180608_191340895 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:55 AM   #132 (permalink)
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So the spindle is not an interference fit? 1/8” is a ton of room for that spindle. Relying on the weld to hold it in place is not going to fare well under abuse. It might work for a while but the whole point of the small interference fit is to give the spindle a solid mount with the weld merely acting as the locking feature to keep it in place as a secondary measure. Hopefully it works out for you but that worries me. Just my two cents, I design interference fits with TIG welds daily and we’ve never had good experiences relying on the weld as the main holding component.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:13 AM   #133 (permalink)
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So the spindle is not an interference fit? 1/8” is a ton of room for that spindle. Relying on the weld to hold it in place is not going to fare well under abuse. It might work for a while but the whole point of the small interference fit is to give the spindle a solid mount with the weld merely acting as the locking feature to keep it in place as a secondary measure. Hopefully it works out for you but that worries me. Just my two cents, I design interference fits with TIG welds daily and we’ve never had good experiences relying on the weld as the main holding component.
I definitely see your concern, but if it was a true interference fit I don't think there would be a chance of getting the shafts in. The housing stayed relatively straight but definitely not perfect. Still plan to run 3-5 plug welds that will act at as pedestals to support further in the tube, but honestly just reassurance. Correct me if I'm wrong, but more or less all semi float flanged axle setups are a butt weld with zero interference and seem to hold up fairly well.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:23 AM   #134 (permalink)
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I have to agree with the guy above.
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Old 06-10-2018, 02:23 PM   #135 (permalink)
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I definitely see your concern, but if it was a true interference fit I don't think there would be a chance of getting the shafts in. The housing stayed relatively straight but definitely not perfect. Still plan to run 3-5 plug welds that will act at as pedestals to support further in the tube, but honestly just reassurance. Correct me if I'm wrong, but more or less all semi float flanged axle setups are a butt weld with zero interference and seem to hold up fairly well.
Full float spindles also including OTR trucks. (spin welded usually)
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Old 06-10-2018, 05:55 PM   #136 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Simple'72CJ View Post
I definitely see your concern, but if it was a true interference fit I don't think there would be a chance of getting the shafts in. The housing stayed relatively straight but definitely not perfect. Still plan to run 3-5 plug welds that will act at as pedestals to support further in the tube, but honestly just reassurance. Correct me if I'm wrong, but more or less all semi float flanged axle setups are a butt weld with zero interference and seem to hold up fairly well.
I'm no expert. But I have a Ford 8.8 converted to full float on my DD. The 8.8 is a weak axle and I'm running big rubber on it. I have a bolt-on truss that is not that great. Anyways, my tubes have bent to a visible smile. I need to tear it apart and weld a proper truss on. I can still get the shafts in and out without issue. Your housing may not be perfect, but it has to be better than mine.

I think factory setups are not perfect. (Straight)

When you say "semi float", there are several definitions that people use.

A full float is where the axle shaft is splined on both ends. (One end in the hub)

A semi float is where one end is bolted to the hub. This is what I have, but most people call it a full float because the hub is supported on the spindle.

Then there is what most people call a semi float where there is no spindle. I don't really know what it's call for real.

In any case, if your refuring to the latter, it doesn't have near the force on it as a spindle/hub does. (What you have)

I may not be making any sense here, but my spindle is interference fit and bolted to the axle housing and I have torn it out of the housing. Of course I have a shitty axle compared to the beautiful workmanship and strength of yours, but I still think that weld is trouble. I would rather see the axle shafts .020" off straight than that weld supporting the spindle.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:44 PM   #137 (permalink)
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It doesn't matter if the shaft is bolted to the hub or splined into the hub, they are both full float if the bearings ride on a spindle and the axle shaft is not supporting the weight of the vehicle. Hence the term full float, because the axle shaft is essentially floating.

On a semi-float and C-clip axle the weight of the vehicle is supported by the axle shaft itself as that is what the bearing is attached to or riding on. The difference between them is that on a C-Clip axle the bearing is pressed into the axle tube and the shaft is retained using a C-Clip. On a semi-float axle the bearing is pressed onto the shaft and the axle is retained on the outside using a retainer plate. With the exception of the c-clip itself there isn't much difference in strength between the two. Semi-float just offers the advantages of not having to pull the cover and partially disassemble the differential to remove a shaft, plus if you do brake a shaft your axle (and subsequently your wheel) will stay attached to the vehicle. But in either scenario the weight of the vehicle is being supported by the shaft.

All that being said, I share the concern of the spindles not being a press fit into the tube.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:52 PM   #138 (permalink)
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All that being said, I share the concern of the spindles not being a press fit into the tube.
I'm concerned that those arguing against his method haven't had to straighten a bent tube/housing or used an axle alignment bar/jig.

Rock on not soSimpleanymoreCJ, move on to the next item and get this thing on the trail.
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Old 06-11-2018, 09:12 AM   #139 (permalink)
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It doesn't matter if the shaft is bolted to the hub or splined into the hub, they are both full float if the bearings ride on a spindle and the axle shaft is not supporting the weight of the vehicle. Hence the term full float, because the axle shaft is essentially floating.

On a semi-float and C-clip axle the weight of the vehicle is supported by the axle shaft itself as that is what the bearing is attached to or riding on. The difference between them is that on a C-Clip axle the bearing is pressed into the axle tube and the shaft is retained using a C-Clip. On a semi-float axle the bearing is pressed onto the shaft and the axle is retained on the outside using a retainer plate. With the exception of the c-clip itself there isn't much difference in strength between the two. Semi-float just offers the advantages of not having to pull the cover and partially disassemble the differential to remove a shaft, plus if you do brake a shaft your axle (and subsequently your wheel) will stay attached to the vehicle. But in either scenario the weight of the vehicle is being supported by the shaft.

All that being said, I share the concern of the spindles not being a press fit into the tube.
This.

I built my own front housing with alignment bar and pucks that I turned on a lathe. Either way, expect issues with those spindles at some point. It sucks, but at least we give a shit enough to tell you and not blow smoke. It's a beautiful axle and you've done good work - but that press fit is key.

edit: Neither full float or semi float flanges/spindles are butt welded. They all have some type of slip fit. We're talking minimal clearances, usually 0.002" or so. Reference the Machinist Handbook for your diameter and it will give you the value range for the interference or slip fits of all the different levels. You're relying on the weld ring for strength instead of the entire surface area of the interference fit. It's a HUGE difference in surface area, holding strength, and alignment.
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Old 06-11-2018, 09:48 AM   #140 (permalink)
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Pirate never fails so I'm gonna lay it out for everyone Would a interference fit been stronger? No shit. My number one concern was to have a as a straight of a housing as possible so I opted for misalignment. If it bothers you cool haha You're not gonna be the one having to fix it IF it breaks off. That being said, I've welded some sketchy stuff and have been astonished on what its put up with in the past and I'm leaps and bounds more confident in this scenario. Jeepdude_Jay and I will be sure to pose with the "trophy" to make all you haters happy!

In all seriousness, I appreciate all the feedback.

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Old 06-11-2018, 10:07 AM   #141 (permalink)
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Got it completely off the table and rolled it outside for the first time yesterday! First time its been out of the garage since before hunting season.

[IMG]IMG_20180610_115323388 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180610_115602763 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180610_115611616 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180610_120018627 (1) by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180610_121454112 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

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Old 06-11-2018, 12:05 PM   #142 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Simple'72CJ View Post
Pirate never fails so I'm gonna lay it out for everyone Would a interference fit been stronger? No shit. My number one concern was to have a as a straight of a housing as possible so I opted for misalignment. If it bothers you cool haha You're not gonna be the one having to fix it IF it breaks off. That being said, I've welded some sketchy stuff and have been astonished on what its put up with in the past and I'm leaps and bounds more confident in this scenario. Jeepdude_Jay and I will be sure to pose with the "trophy" to make all you haters happy!

In all seriousness, I appreciate all the feedback.
Please don't interpret my comments as hating. Your workmanship is beautiful and I don't believe you ever made a sketchy weld in your life.

Carry on.
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Old 06-11-2018, 02:00 PM   #143 (permalink)
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YOUR WELDS ARE HIDEOUS! CANT WAIT TO WATCH THAT SHIT BREAK!!




you've created the most badass cj5 ever, brother
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Old 06-13-2018, 03:28 PM   #144 (permalink)
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Beautiful work!!
I know you said you use WD40 to keep the tubing clean, but you didn't say what you do to clean up all your tubing. Everything looks almost polished. Do you scrub everything down with a scotchbrite pad before bending?
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Old 06-15-2018, 12:58 PM   #145 (permalink)
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I haven't spend much time browsing Hardcore Tech recently but today I come across this. Totally badass build. Carry-on.
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:31 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Beautiful work!!
I know you said you use WD40 to keep the tubing clean, but you didn't say what you do to clean up all your tubing. Everything looks almost polished. Do you scrub everything down with a scotchbrite pad before bending?
Not before bending, but definitely give everything some scotchbrite attention after its all tacked and ready for pics Totally unnecessary lol but I'm weird and like a clean finish.
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:39 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Been a minute since posting on here... Waiting on paychecks and parts is the norm recently. Ordered my alternator/PS pump relocation brackets from Goat Built and also some motor mounts. Current motor mounts I had in for mock were AME, but push the mounting tabs forward in order to use an off the shelf sbc style poly mount. Swapping these out will allow me to tied directly into the node where the shock hoop meets the frame rail. Tig'ed the outer joint to allow room for bolt head.

[IMG]IMG_20180622_121234547 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180622_121412578 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180622_122559474 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180622_122620663 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 06-23-2018, 06:49 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Then I finally got off my ass and started mounting the radiator. Not gonna lie I was dreading this like no other just because I knew everything was gonna be so tight. Got a stupid deal on a Flexalite LS conversion CJ radiator through work so figured I'd try my best to package it. Biggest issue I ran into was the hood being able to close completely and it not coming with a cap really created issues. Right now I have about 3/8" of clearance so hopefully a cap will clear, but if not I'll cut the neck off and massage it so it sits more flat and then I'l know for sure I'll have enough room.

[IMG]IMG_20180623_120223381 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_131548075 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_131555893 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_131543319 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_131754866_HDR by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_172101725 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_172122412 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_172353137 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_172559714 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_20180623_172434738 by Alex Velasquez, on Flickr[/IMG]

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Old 06-24-2018, 09:15 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Outstanding! I loved your Jeep in the original build, I can't wait to see you finish this!
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Old 06-25-2018, 06:28 AM   #150 (permalink)
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Looking good!
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