To start things off lets do a little back story. Bought the jeep back when I was 16 when it was more or less stock other than a tired small block Chev. Over the past 7 1/2 years I slowly built it into a more capable PNW style trail jeep. The last year of jeepin it started to become a bit of a hassle with tons of little things breaking/wearing out and I started to worry almost everytime I was gonna be "that guy". Never in its life having a full tear down, it was starting to show its age and I did my best to keep it together by strapping the frame after it broke, tied cage into frame, redid the suspension, etc. Anyways, here's the old girl.
TBI 350
Dana 44's F/R
t18
4.27's w/lunchbox lockers
Dana 20
Spring under rear with yj's
Spring over front front with toyota rears
Chromoly shafts
Redhead steering box
36 tsl's
It's hard for me sometimes, to slow down and take my time.
Your "quick crossmember" for example. All it takes is a little extra time and dedication, and you end up with a very nice, "simple," piece.
I love your patience and artistic skill. Carry on!
You front double sheer and an knuckle tie it should add some strength, but I dont see it adding much if the big spacer isnt somehow tied into the knuckle....In a stress failure situation(which you are trying to eliminate) i see it just breaking the tie rod hole of the knuckle off.
The big "spacer" is more or less just a spot to attach the double shear tab for the end link bolt. The hi-steer arm it self is both keyed and 6 bolts so the amount of force to shear all that would be quite the impact. My concern was the single shear on the bolt, so with everything tied I'm hoping to have made the heim joint my weak spot since those are easy to carry spares of
I'm confused, isn't that bracket supposed to be welded to the sway bar tube as well? I don't see any HAZ on the bottom. Or is that just to gusset the backside?
Went with the Essentially Offroad driveline kit for the intermediate since I was using their carrier bearing setup. Both front and rear drivelines with be WOD
Correct. The sway bar tube itself still needs to be situated and fully welded on the sides first prior to tying into plate. Then it gets weird with the winch plate haha there's 2 outside welds that wouldn't be accessible with the sway bar mount in place. Dilemma is to weld the winch plate out of position (if I feel like I can make it look good) or wait until I pull everything apart and flip chassis on its side. There's a method to my madness most of the time haha only reason it's not fully welded right now is because of sequence of welding I gotta do
I was able to squeeze in some weld time at lunch today to button up the sway bar arms. Honestly, Im not super stoked on how they came out, but powdercoat will cover up the flaws.
After i threw a fit for a bit I calmed down and worked on the rig some more when i got home haha And I decided to work on something that could wait till the very end
Waterhouse, you are more than likely right haha a guy at work mentioned something about them possibly twisting so figured why not. Also gave me a chance to practice more with the Tig. Glad you like them đź‘Ť
Then cycled the rear suspension some more to make sure everything clears. Coil/tire was my biggest concern and needed to move the mount in about a 1/2", but needed to clearance the tube so I could still get a nut on the bolt.
One of those things that turns out to be way more complicated than it needs to be. Anyways, pics will explain.
Chopped down the passenger mount and go it situated where it needed to be. Fully flexed out I have about a 1/4" clearance between tire and coil with the current wheels. I have a set of aluminum beadlocks that I plan to run and they have less BS than what I'm mocking with.
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