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Old 01-24-2020, 08:25 PM   #276 (permalink)
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Are you tying the rear seat into the cage?
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Old 01-24-2020, 08:58 PM   #277 (permalink)
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Are you tying the rear seat into the cage?
Yes I will be. I have a few ideas about how I want to do it. Think I will bend a bar to follow the profile of the step in the back welded to the B pillar hoop then bend up a hoop to go from that bar up from the step bar towards the back. Probably do some feet at the back of the hoop and run some frame tie ins from it as well. Iím a ways away from the cage build though.
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Old 01-25-2020, 08:49 PM   #278 (permalink)
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So yeah, remember that Dakota Digital HDX-2200 from a page or two ago that I was leaning towards using?

This one



https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....od/prd1145.htm

Yeah, I went ahead and ordered it this morning along with the add on GPS module which gives me a gps based speedo, compass, and altimeter as well as an outside temp sensor. Iím just gonna figure out a way to make it fit where I want to put it.
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Old 01-27-2020, 04:19 PM   #279 (permalink)
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Back to work today. Started with getting the mounting sorted out for the Derale Transmission cooler.





After that was mounted up I turned my attention to the steering. I started by mounting the new Jegs steering column roughly in place. The factory YJ firewall plate fits perfectly. I still have to attach the upper dash mount to the column however. Iím thinking I am just going to weld the plate straight to the column.



With the column in place I started mocking up the steering shaft. I saved myself some coin and picked up a DD shaft, and the appropriate sized Borgeson joints for the ends to build my own as opposed to buying a prebuilt.





Once I had the shaft roughed together I could determine the mounting location for the orbital and burn in the mount bracket.







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Old 01-27-2020, 04:29 PM   #280 (permalink)
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Once the orbital was in I went ahead and drilled the holes in the column and shaft to fully seat the screws on the joint ends.



The slapped a couple coats of paint on and fully assembled and installed the shaft.





Then I changed gears to the rear to work on the fuel cell. First I drilled and grommeted some holes to bring the fuel lines up into the tub.



Then I went ahead and dropped the fuel cell in and realized I have a pretty big problem.









So as you can see, I donít really have enough clearance to run hose to install a fuel filler neck. When I had this installed before the filler neck faced the front and I cut a channel thru the wheel well and routed a hose up to a TJ filler neck mounted just behind the drivers side door. I knew I wouldnít be able to run it that way again due to the full rear bench soo thought if I spun it 180* I could run the filler thru the tailgate. I just donít see a good way to do that however. Itís too close to the fender. I also wonít have enough height or space running it Thru the fender. About the only thing I can think of is try to heat the filler neck pipe and bend them up, but Iím concerned that will wind up just kicking the tubes and I wonít be able to get gas into it. Canít tig or otherwise weld aluminum so even if I cut a new fill in at the top of the cell, Iím not sure how I could seal these tubes off so they wonít leak.

Anybody have any suggestions? If I canít come up with something workable I am thinking about ordering the Motobilt YJ fuel cell and recessing it into the floor like this one is. Though the dimensions are drastically different which means I will also have to patch part of the existing hole.
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:28 PM   #281 (permalink)
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Got a little sumthin sumthin delivered yesterday. Nice well packed box from Dakota Digital.





This thing is almost too pretty to put in the YJ. I had originally ordered the black face unit, but Dakota Digital emailed me and told me it was out of stock and would be 4 to 6 weeks out. So I agreed to change to the silver face and I gotta admit, I’m glad I did. It really is a gorgeous piece.

The downside is the other parts I ordered that I really kind of need to keep moving forward won’t be here in time for my work day on Monday. So this week is probably going to be dedicated to chipping away at more of the smaller projects I need to complete as well as doing another clean and organize of the garage. It has gotten out of hand again. I went to build the steering hoses the other day and realized I have no idea where the damn fittings for the orbital are. Hoping if I do a good clean I will find the fucking things.
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:44 PM   #282 (permalink)
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So this week is probably going to be dedicated to chipping away at more of the smaller projects I need to complete as well as doing another clean and organize of the garage.
I know the feeling. The smaller projects need to be done. It sucks because they don't give much satisfaction when done, but they remove some stress (dreading doing them.)
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Old 02-02-2020, 02:24 PM   #283 (permalink)
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Scott, A decent fab guy could cut the tank inlet tubes, and weld on some aluminum small radius 90 degree tubing that points up.
Then use fuel safe rubber tubing to join to another pair of tubes that 90 to your TJ filler.
Make a nice box or cover to protect the tubing from the tank, to the TJ filler .
It will provide a safe/sturdy/enclosed mounting point for the TJ filler to mount to, and be all covered and safe for the passengers.

Here's a place with some different elbow options....

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/fuel-hose-elbows/

link to aluminum 90 degree bends



If possible...I would open up the tank opening in the rear floor maybe 1/2" or so on the driver side and slide the tank over slightly to the driver side so you the max space available on the passenger side.
Don't mount it it permanent, just clamp it until the inlet hoses are done.
That way... when you do mount it permanently, you can use some 1.5" or 2" wide x 3/16" thick rubber strips to cover the leftover gaps....like a rectangle picture frame.
Just drill a few holes and bolt it down.
It helps keep out dust...exhaust... and noise....and just makes it look cleaner.

Quinn (from JA) has a shop called 74weld.com that might be able to weld the tank.
He's right across from CTM racing (Jack) in El Cajon....who may also have a kid there that can weld something during his lunch break.
At that point, the tank should have everything removed, washed with some mild soap and water, dried during a warm day in the sun, and inspect it good.












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So as you can see, I don’t really have enough clearance to run hose to install a fuel filler neck. When I had this installed before the filler neck faced the front and I cut a channel thru the wheel well and routed a hose up to a TJ filler neck mounted just behind the drivers side door. I knew I wouldn’t be able to run it that way again due to the full rear bench soo thought if I spun it 180* I could run the filler thru the tailgate. I just don’t see a good way to do that however. It’s too close to the fender. I also won’t have enough height or space running it Thru the fender. About the only thing I can think of is try to heat the filler neck pipe and bend them up, but I’m concerned that will wind up just kicking the tubes and I won’t be able to get gas into it. Can’t tig or otherwise weld aluminum so even if I cut a new fill in at the top of the cell, I’m not sure how I could seal these tubes off so they won’t leak.

Anybody have any suggestions? If I can’t come up with something workable I am thinking about ordering the Motobilt YJ fuel cell and recessing it into the floor like this one is. Though the dimensions are drastically different which means I will also have to patch part of the existing hole.

Last edited by ToddRH; 02-02-2020 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 02-03-2020, 09:15 PM   #284 (permalink)
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So as predicted today wasnít particularly productive. Discovered I ordered the wrong starter so that has to be returned to Summit Racing and the correct one ordered so that didnít get installed. I did manage to get the garage cleaned up and organized again. However I failed to locate the fittings for the orbital. Gonna have to call PSC to order another set as I donít know what sizes they are.

I did hold the gauge cluster up to get a feel for what Iím gonna have to do to fit it. I think it should work quite well above the wheel. It looks like it sticks up a fair bit but when the windshield frame goes on I think it will still be under the glass. I am going to have to build out a shrine to mount it in for sure.



I also took some time to address some airflow concerns for the trans cooler. A few people commented about having not enough flow thru where I mounted it. So I popped it off and punched a series of both 1.5Ē and 1 1/8Ē holes thru the firewall behind it. Nice thing is the holes are actually below the floorboard and above the subfloor where the forward body mount is. No cab penetration at all.



I should have more parts rolling in this week so next week should be far more productive.
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Old 02-09-2020, 04:00 PM   #285 (permalink)
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This is a very nice build you have going here, it helps me see how to do some of the things Iím planning to do to my 1985 CJ-7 auto, so thanks for posting all the great pictures.

I have a 4.0 based (4.7) stroker engine Iíve been building that will go in front of my TF-999 automatic Transmission. Iím going to do a SOA conversion and probably 35ís, so Iíd like to here from you what gear ratio worked with your combo. I know with an auto you donít need as much gear, and Iím thinking I might get away with 3.5 gears, but Iím not sure.

What gears did you use behind your 4.0/automatic transmission with the 35ís you were running before?

Did you have any upgrades done to your automatic transmission, like a manual valve body so you can put it in 1st gear and have engine braking during steep downhill slopes? Iím curious if this is what folks do who are running automatic transmissions. Or, do you just ride the brakes when needed?

On another note, what happened to making the transfer case rear support cross member removable? That seems like something you would want built in, for ease of maintenance. Donít forget to remove the metal shavings from that hole you drilled in the axle housing, for the vent.

Itís going to be an awesome Jeep, I canít wait to see the final results with the ďGeneral LeeĒ livery. Nice 71 Charger too.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:34 PM   #286 (permalink)
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This is a very nice build you have going here, it helps me see how to do some of the things Iím planning to do to my 1985 CJ-7 auto, so thanks for posting all the great pictures.

I have a 4.0 based (4.7) stroker engine Iíve been building that will go in front of my TF-999 automatic Transmission. Iím going to do a SOA conversion and probably 35ís, so Iíd like to here from you what gear ratio worked with your combo. I know with an auto you donít need as much gear, and Iím thinking I might get away with 3.5 gears, but Iím not sure.

What gears did you use behind your 4.0/automatic transmission with the 35ís you were running before?

Did you have any upgrades done to your automatic transmission, like a manual valve body so you can put it in 1st gear and have engine braking during steep downhill slopes? Iím curious if this is what folks do who are running automatic transmissions. Or, do you just ride the brakes when needed?

On another note, what happened to making the transfer case rear support cross member removable? That seems like something you would want built in, for ease of maintenance. Donít forget to remove the metal shavings from that hole you drilled in the axle housing, for the vent.

Itís going to be an awesome Jeep, I canít wait to see the final results with the ďGeneral LeeĒ livery. Nice 71 Charger too.
Thanks.
Iíve been running 4.10 gears for years with the 35s on the auto and it was pretty much perfect.

For the auto I just had him do a straight rebuild and toss a shift kit in it. Nothing fancier than that. For descents Iíve always just manually dropped it down to first gear in low range and used the brakes when necessary. You donít really need a manual valve body for this.

For the rear crossmember I decided to solid weld it in because it also became my anti wrap bar mount and I wanted to make damn sure it was solid. I still have the room to slide the atlas out if I need to.

As for the diff I actually tried a little trick that worked amazingly well to prevent them from getting in to begin with. I set up a couple of rare earth magnets inside little plastic bags surrounding the hole as I was drilling it. Every piece of metal got sucked right to the magnets. Then when it was finished being tapped out I dropped one down thru the hole for any little leftovers.
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Old 02-10-2020, 04:35 PM   #287 (permalink)
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So as much as it pained me, I solved the fuel issue. Went ahead and snagged the Motobilt YJ fuel cell and mount bracket.



So the downside of this route was that I had already cut the hole for the old one. The Motobilt cell is about 6Ēs narrower than my Todd built original was which meant I had to rework the hole in the floor and patch in some of the area I had previously cut out. All well. Once I had the hole in the floor modified to fit the dimensions of the new cell I got to work on modifying the Motobilt brackets to work in a recessed configuration.

I took some 2Ē wide 1/8Ē flat stock and cut it to length. Drilled some 3/8Ē mounting holes in it, and added a couple of 1Ē dimples then welded it to the Motobilt brackets 6.5Ēs up from the base connecting both sides.





I did this front and back. I also added some gussets from my Ruffstuff shop supply set to help strengthen the mount. Test fitting it without the cell.







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Old 02-10-2020, 04:39 PM   #288 (permalink)
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Once I was happy with it I went ahead and slapped the cell into the mounts and fit the whole assembly. This will come out again later for paint on the brackets and some clear on the cell.

I ordered a 45* filler neck with the correct bolt pattern from Amazon to let me hook it up to the TJ filler neck.









Then I tossed the rear bench in briefly to see where the best place to punch another set of holes would be to bring the fuel lines up into the tub.

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Old 02-13-2020, 04:04 PM   #289 (permalink)
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Spent some time today chipping away at more of the small stuff as I am still waiting on some parts.

First I installed some 10-24 Aluminum nutserts into the holes for mounting the sending unit. The fuel cell came with bolts with nylock nuts, but I felt that would make the sending unit a bitch to remove for servicing down the line.



That being done I marked the mounting holes and removed the cell to drill and weld in some 3/8Ē weld nuts on each side to secure the cell down.



While the paint was drying on the cell mount brackets I went ahead and installed the drop bracket onto the new sending unit that came with the Motobilt fuel cell, installed the upgraded Holley Sniper EFI fuel pump into the sending unit, and converted the top feed tubes to -6AN fittings to make up with my fuel lines.





Paint dry on the fuel cell mounting brackets I assembled it all back together with grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts and dropped it back in place.





Last thing I did before going to pick my daughter up from school was to cut the holes above the battery mount for these firewall passthru terminals I picked up from Jegs. These will be wired directly to the battery terminals and inside feed my fuse and relay center to power all my crap.



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Old 02-14-2020, 05:47 PM   #290 (permalink)
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Spent a little more time on the fuel cell today. My Jegs order came in with a few key missing pieces to start figuring out the filler neck.

First was to add provisions for the vent for the filler neck. I snagged a bulkhead fitting and a 90* fitting to mate the hose to. Rather than drill another hole in the cell itself and have to worry about getting all the shavings and such out I elected to drill and mount it in the filler neck plate itself as I had plenty of room.





I also obviously broke out my contortionist skills and bolted the filler neck assembly down to the cell using the gaskets and hardware that came with the Motobilt cell. Had to do all the inside work thru the fuel pump cut out which my arm barely fit thru.

I also ordered a chunk of fuel filler hose from Jegs that will serve to connect the TJ filler neck to the cell. Still need to get this cut down to length.

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Old 02-15-2020, 05:50 PM   #291 (permalink)
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Pretty productive day today. I decided to start by modifying the Metalcloak High Line fenders to shave a little weight, add some under hood airflow, and add a little bling. Metalcloak only offers their inserts on their arched fenders so I made my own. The fenders are 1/8Ē steel. The panels I made are 14 gauge perforated aluminum. Probably saved a lb or two per side. First I laid out my cut outs.



Cut them out.



Then laid the cut out pieces onto my perforated aluminum sheet and traced them out adding 1Ē to it all the way around. Laid them over the cut outs and marked a couple of 1/4Ē mounting holes. Drilled a couple of the perforations out a touch to install some nutserts to attach them.



Installed.





Inside view



Then I couldnít resist slapping one on to see how it looked.



Itís a good thing I decided to do that. When I went to check out the inner fenders I realized I had to do some trimming on them because my front shock towers are now sitting a few inches further forward than they were before. Nothing a little time with an aluminum cut off wheel couldnít solve.



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Old 02-15-2020, 06:00 PM   #292 (permalink)
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After I finished the fender mock up I decided it was high time to get the YJ sitting on its own weight. So I unwrapped the Treps and rolled them into the garage and mounted them up.







Holy balls this thing is tall! It also has a bit of a front slant to it with the ass sitting a fair bit higher than the front. Belly pan measures 29Ē towards the front and 30Ē towards the back. It should settle out quite a bit though as I still have about a thousand lbs to add to the thing yet. Cage, windshield and frame, seats, gear, tools, fuel, etc. rear bumper is currently exactly 3 feet off the ground at the bottom.

I also got the shipping confirmation for my 8Ē wide YJ Tuffy console today. It will be here Tuesday so I can finally get going on the console and dash. I decided to get a head start on that however and start laying things out in cardboard a little bit. Didnít get very far but itís a start.

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Old 02-16-2020, 07:59 PM   #293 (permalink)
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Sorry to see you couldn't reuse the the tank I built you.

The new one looks great though !!

Your estimate of an additional 1k lbs for cage, seats, spare tire, and additional shit, is probably close. It will probably go over that a little.

I would highly suggest at this point of your build that you buy/rent/borrow/steal some vehicle corner scales and see EXACTLY where you are with the weight at each corner....and the left/right side....and the front and rear.

This will be your last opportunity to make any changes or move things to distribute the weight equally as you can on all 4 corners.
You will also need to know this number for estimating the shock valving.

General photo example......


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Old 02-16-2020, 08:59 PM   #294 (permalink)
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Yeah it kind of hurt to go with a new cell. I’m not just scraping the one you built me though. It’s still kicking around.

Shouldn’t I be scaling it once the cage and everything is in and done though? I’m missing a good grand or so worth of weight right now. I was kind of figuring shocks would be one of the very last parts I order for this very reason. I’ve got the lengths measured out and written down for the shocks but that’s it.
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Old 02-16-2020, 10:27 PM   #295 (permalink)
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Yeah it kind of hurt to go with a new cell. Iím not just scraping the one you built me though. Itís still kicking around.

Shouldnít I be scaling it once the cage and everything is in and done though? Iím missing a good grand or so worth of weight right now. I was kind of figuring shocks would be one of the very last parts I order for this very reason. Iíve got the lengths measured out and written down for the shocks but thatís it.
By all means, start fabricating cage components, spare tire carrier, whatever's next.....

It's just good to know whats going on as you progress with the build.
Easier to locate/change things as you build now, rather then after shit's been tacked in.

I'm thinkin' it weighs near 3000lbs as is.

But your doing great man !! Keep it up !!


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Old 02-17-2020, 08:08 AM   #296 (permalink)
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Quote:
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By all means, start fabricating cage components, spare tire carrier, whatever's next.....

It's just good to know whats going on as you progress with the build.
Easier to locate/change things as you build now, rather then after shit's been tacked in.

I'm thinkin' it weighs near 3000lbs as is.

But your doing great man !! Keep it up !!


_
Yeah Iím thinking itís going to be sitting around 5k lbs when itís all said and done. Iíll be using aluminum where I can on the dash and console panels to shave a few lbs wherever I can. The 4 lbs I saved by doing the aluminum inserts in the fenders doesnít sound like much, but it all adds up.

The cage is going to have to be done in the driveway. No way I have enough overhead clearance to do it in the garage. Iím going to finish mocking up the dash and console and a couple other small things then pull the tub off again for final clean up, a few more strength upgrades on the bottom, and paint and coating. Then mate it to the frame for the final time and get started on the cage and such.
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Old 02-19-2020, 03:44 PM   #297 (permalink)
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First thing on the agenda today was to install the new pinion seals since I finally got the correct seal for the 70. Then I went ahead and installed the Yukon forged 1350 yokes.



My 8Ē wide Tuffy center console finally arrived so I was then able to get cracking on the center console and dash. To work out the console placement I decided to throw the seats in roughly where they will end up.





Then I got to work figuring out the spreaders from the Tuffy to the dash. I was originally planning to go straight across and have it flat from the console to the bottom of the dash.



However after I mocked it into place like that and sat in it to play with the shifter placement I decided I didnít like it. So I reworked the spreaders to angle down from the dash instead.



Broke out the CAD (thanks Metalcloak for the template material my tube fenders were packed in. Great thick cardboard) to start figuring out the first panel and the area for the triple sticks for the Atlas.



From there I was able to place and make the angle pieces to extend up to the top of the dash.



And this is where I hit a problem. No matter what I tried, I donít have enough clearance for the transmission shifter. No matter where I tried to stick the thing, the triple sticks would interfere or vice versa. After looking at it for an hour at least and playing with multiple different placements I decided there was only one thing for it. I need more clearance from the NWF shifters. The only way I could think to achieve this was to cut the shifter levers down by 2Ēs each. This should let me move the triple sticks further back closer to the Tuffy and give me more clearance ahead of them.

So I carefully measured and marked the sticks.



And cut them down by 2 inches each.



Luckily I still have a good 8 feet of 1/2Ē ID DOM floating around which is the perfect size to sleeve the shifter rods. I beveled them down and sleeved the two pieces together. Iím about out of MiG mix again so welding them up has to wait Until I can get to Westair for a refill.

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Old 02-20-2020, 09:21 AM   #298 (permalink)
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Old 02-20-2020, 09:37 AM   #299 (permalink)
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I've had good success tapering the two pieces of rod to a point and welding them together in a butt joint. The heavy wall sleeve seems unnecessary and unappealing to my eye. YMMV
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Old 02-20-2020, 02:53 PM   #300 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the freeak View Post
I've had good success tapering the two pieces of rod to a point and welding them together in a butt joint. The heavy wall sleeve seems unnecessary and unappealing to my eye. YMMV
Yeah I donít love the look, however they will be completely hidden inside the shift boots anyway so itís not like Iíll be looking at them forever.
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