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Old 04-11-2019, 01:59 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Great looking build!
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Old 04-13-2019, 07:35 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Came home from work to a nice heavy box from ECGS. 66lbs of Chromoly shafts, joints, and some wheel bearing kits.



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Old 04-13-2019, 08:44 PM   #53 (permalink)
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So for the first time probably since we bought the house I have a ton of open space in my garage.

Your idea and my idea of a "ton of space" is differnt. Lol. But I use to be "that guy" that worked out in the street, so I'll shut up.

All the new parts and your fab work is getting exciting.

Carry on.
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Old 04-13-2019, 08:59 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Your idea and my idea of a "ton of space" is differnt. Lol. But I use to be "that guy" that worked out in the street, so I'll shut up.

All the new parts and your fab work is getting exciting.

Carry on.
Itís a two car garage thatís never held a car since we bought the house. Should be enough space for me to do the build for the most part. The cage is gonna have to be done in the driveway though. I donít have the height to do it in the garage.

And coming from you that means a lot. Iíve been following your insane build for ages. I wish I had the shop space you have.
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Old 04-14-2019, 02:10 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Got a couple of hours in the garage this morning. So I decided to start with assembling the short side chromoly shaft and Super Joint as so far I have only disassembled the short side of the 60.












Not too bad for my first time working with Dana 60 stuff. Had to use my shop press for assembly as my bench vice wasnít big enough to press in the caps. Also discovered I had to remove the zerks from the cap ends to install the shaft thru the knuckle.
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Old 04-14-2019, 02:16 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Then I switched gears for a little bit and got to work on fitting the 3/4 ton brake rotors to one of the Dana 70 hubs. I had read that either the rotor needs to be opened up, or the ridge on the back of the hub machined down. I decided to do the hub that way I can just use an off the shelf rotor at any time. Since I donít have a lathe I did it the booty fab way with a grinder and a flap disc.










Then I jumped over to some more painting. Painted the machined wheel hub, one of the front brake calipers, and the front brake bracket and hub that I have removed. Also tossed a few coats of black on the knuckle.







Then started to reassemble the short side on the 60. Waiting for the paint to dry on the hub so I can go install the new bearings and seals, new brake rotor, press the studs back in, install the drive flange, etc.

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Old 04-14-2019, 06:16 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Last update for today. Went ahead and assembled a brake rotor onto the painted 70 hub.





I appear to have misplaced one of the studs for the 70 so I need to root around the garage by the press to see if I can find it for the other side. I still have to machine the other hub down so the rotor will fit and then repaint it orange to match this one. I was originally gonna go black on the hubs but I decided with the black wheels it’s just too much. Saw another build on here where someone had painted the hubs a different color and I liked it. This should break up the black nicely.

I also went ahead and placed another order with ECGS for some chromoly shafts for the 70 just a few minutes ago. Go big or go home as they say. I’m hoping I can get the axles pretty much wrapped up for now next week then roll the YJ in for the long awaited tear down. (I feel like I’ve said this before)
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Old 04-15-2019, 04:38 PM   #58 (permalink)
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So I went ahead and put the 60 hub assembly back together with a new rotor and new bearings and such.



However I hit a little snag. I canít seem to get the hub seated back on the spindle all the way. I think I drove the seal in too far (itís not flush with the lip of the hub but set in closer to the bearing.) so near as I can tell, because of this it somehow wonít bottom out on the spindle. And of course I donít see any way to remove the seal or space it out where it needs to be without destroying it in the process. So I ordered another seal and I will try and seat it flush and see if that makes a difference. Does this sound like itís my issue? The races are fully seated.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:27 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Put the hub on the spindle, add a spindle nut, grab the rotor and pull towards you, should pop the bearing and seal out, may even be able reuse the seal.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:46 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Put the hub on the spindle, add a spindle nut, grab the rotor and pull towards you, should pop the bearing and seal out, may even be able reuse the seal.
This may work.

I don't see the seal holding up the hub though. The only issue I can think of, if the seal is too far in, is leakage.

Ps, I like the orange if you have it somewhere else. (Brake calipers or links or rock rings, maybe just diff covers)
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Last edited by waterhorse; 04-16-2019 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 04-16-2019, 04:55 PM   #61 (permalink)
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My issue is it won’t go on the spindle far enough to even thread the spindle nut on to the outer bearing. I took the other seal from the other kit and tried it by itself and it goes over the base of the spindle just fine, so I know it’s the right seal and size. It’s definitely getting hung up on something and the only thing I can see is the seal being seated too deeply in the hub. I have another seal on order so I’m just going to pop this one out and replace it.


Water horse, the whole Jeep will be orange when it’s done. General Lee theme and paint job. I am also planning to do the beadlock rings in orange. For the diff covers I have something kind of fun in mind. I saw an old school orange blazer on the freeway a few months back and he had painted his rear diff cover orange with a jack o lantern face on it. I thought it was super clever painting the pumpkin cover like a pumpkin. So I kinda want to steal his idea and do an evil looking jack o lantern on the diff covers.
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:36 PM   #62 (permalink)
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How about the inner bearing? Could it be wrong? The inner one is often larger ID than the outside one. I just don't see how the seal could effect it.

The pumpkin pumpkin is a cool idea. If I had an orange truck, I would do it. I like the evil grin idea too. Ha-Ha
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:15 PM   #63 (permalink)
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How about the inner bearing? Could it be wrong? The inner one is often larger ID than the outside one. I just don't see how the seal could effect it.

The pumpkin pumpkin is a cool idea. If I had an orange truck, I would do it. I like the evil grin idea too. Ha-Ha
I suppose it could be. The race sure is the right size as it was a press fit with the shop press to get it in there. Tag on the bearing kit said itís for Chevy and dodge kingpin 60s. It came with 2 different seals. One of which I can only assume is for the dodge 60 as it is too small to go anywhere on my Chevy hubs. Iíll take the calipers to the bearing and the spindle tomorrow and check though. The old bearing that was in it looks to be in good shape so I could reuse it I guess. I just liked the idea of all fresh bearings as I just donít know how long the stuff thatís in there has been in service. And I know for a fact the guy I bought the axles from wheeled his rig hard. I got them because he broke his frame in half and instead of rebuilding it he went and bought a buggy.
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Old 04-19-2019, 06:52 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Came home from work to another big heavy box from East Coast Gear Supply today containing a set of Yukon 35 spline chromoly axle shafts for the Dana 70, a pair of Yukon 1350 forged pinion yokes and 2 sets of Spicer U bolts for the pinion yokes.



My UPS guy must really be hating me.
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Old 04-22-2019, 05:04 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Well with Easter and all I didnít get much done this week. Had to do the family thing on Sunday with the egg hunting and all. Today had a parent teacher conference that chewed up some time then my daily driver/ tow rig decided to let me know it was time for new brake pads so that took priority. Got 5 years out of these, the factory pads which btw did not have squealer strips in them. Just started grinding this morning.




On the YJ front I finally got the damn hub seated on the spindle. Still not entirely sure what the hang up was. I finally decided to give it some motivation with a dead blow hammer. After about 5 good whacks it finally slid into place and seated. So I was able to get the short side pretty well buttoned up. New Timken bearings and seals, new rotor, the chromoly shafts and Yukon super joint and the Yukon Hardcore drove flanges which I had to basically just figure out on my own as there are no instructions with them or on Yukonís site. Wasnít too difficult after I looked at it for a few minutes. Also new brake pads. I did discover I have misplaced the metal shim thing that locks the caliper into place however, so I have to root around and see if I can locate that.



I also managed to get the long side all blown apart.
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Old 04-30-2019, 08:15 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Nothing picture worthy this week. Finished assembling the long side 60 chromo shaft and Super Joint. Got the other 70 hub ground down to fit the rotor. Finished assembly of the short side with the brake caliper and such. Slapped a couple of coats of paint on the other 60 and 70 hubs I haven’t painted yet. Discovered I ordered the wrong size banjo bolts for the rear calipers so I ordered the correct ones today along with new pinion seals. Figure I may as well replace them while I am swapping to the 1350 yokes.

I do have 1 question on the 70. Since it is full float, it appears the wheel bearings are lubricated by the diff fluid in the tubes correct? So do I still put a bit of grease on the bearings before I install them or no?
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Old 05-01-2019, 05:51 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I do have 1 question on the 70. Since it is full float, it appears the wheel bearings are lubricated by the diff fluid in the tubes correct? So do I still put a bit of grease on the bearings before I install them or no?
Shouldn't need to grease them, maybe a light coat of gear oil if they are going to sit for a while without gear oil in the axle.
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:09 AM   #68 (permalink)
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I agree, I've always given them a light coat of grease but as you say, they will be oil bathed.

Do you think you'll need to get creative to retain the bolts in the 70 axle shafts? I never had a problem with my old 14B FF shafts coming loose BUT lots of people have had issues in FF applications.
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:27 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I agree, I've always given them a light coat of grease but as you say, they will be oil bathed.

Do you think you'll need to get creative to retain the bolts in the 70 axle shafts? I never had a problem with my old 14B FF shafts coming loose BUT lots of people have had issues in FF applications.
Yeah I kind of donít feel right sticking the bearings in without grease. But I donít want the grease contaminating the gear oil in the diff either. Maybe Iíll just put a touch on the races to help with assembly. A tiny bit shouldnít hurt the gear oil.

As to the bolt retention, I wasnít aware that was an issue. I guess Iíll just put a little blue loctite on them when I install them.
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Old 05-02-2019, 05:23 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Yeah I kind of donít feel right sticking the bearings in without grease. But I donít want the grease contaminating the gear oil in the diff either. Maybe Iíll just put a touch on the races to help with assembly. A tiny bit shouldnít hurt the gear oil.

As to the bolt retention, I wasnít aware that was an issue. I guess Iíll just put a little blue loctite on them when I install them.
I pack full float bearings on a fresh install, buddy of mine killed a set in the first 15 miles because they ran dry even after allowing gear oil to flow into both hubs for awhile. Cheap insurance in my eye's, wouldn't really be worried about oil contamination as long as you don't pack the hub plum full or use some odd super special blend of grease.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:35 PM   #71 (permalink)
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I pack full float bearings on a fresh install, buddy of mine killed a set in the first 15 miles because they ran dry even after allowing gear oil to flow into both hubs for awhile. Cheap insurance in my eye's, wouldn't really be worried about oil contamination as long as you don't pack the hub plum full or use some odd super special blend of grease.
Noted. Grease them up with a reasonable amount of grease it is.
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:54 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Updates for today. I actually got a fair bit accomplished. I finished assembling the long side of the Dana 60. I still need to do a fluid change, hack the spring perch off of it and paint the diff cover and housing. But for all intents it is basically done for now. The housing will get painted after I get it mocked in and burn in the new spring perch.









So with the 60 out of the way it was time to dive in to the 70.
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Old 05-06-2019, 07:02 PM   #73 (permalink)
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First order of business on the 70 was cutting all the crap off the tubes. Spring perches, shock mounts, and the anti wrap bar mounts (po had one on each side)

So I broke out the plasma cutter and blew off the stuff as close to the tubes as I could get without cutting into them. Then spent way too much time with a grinder removing the rest. I actually had to stop after cleaning one side as my hands were vibrating so much and my grinders were getting super hot. So I shifted gears to finish the hub and brake assembly on the side I had finished cleaning.









The I went ahead and cut down the first Yukon chromoly shaft. Amazingly I guessed right on which side it was. That said this shaft is the last thing my harbor freight chop saw will ever cut. It took for fucking ever to get thru it and I kept tripping the power strip on the welding table. Got an Amazon and ordered a Dewalt chop saw as soon as I finally got thru the damn thing. Hit it with a flap disc to bevel the end a touch to make it easier to spline in.



I also went ahead and got the Ruffstuff diff cover painted for the 70.



Thatís about it for this days updates. Slow but steady progress is being made.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:06 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Well, turns out I got something else accomplished yesterday. Gave myself a lovely case of flash burn while plasma cutting the brackets off. Was wearing my dark green tinted plasma glasses that I have used many times before, however I inadvertently caught a few food glimpses of the arc on the back side of the cuts. Apparently it was enough to fuck up my eyes for the day. Of course today was the day at work that I spend the majority of driving around from store to store. I was ok indoors but the sunlight outside was brutal. Spent the day driving around with 2 pairs of sunglasses stacked up on my face.

PSA, do not look directly at the arc! Lesson learned. Hopefully this clears up by tomorrow. Research says it should be better after a day or two.
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Old 05-08-2019, 11:54 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Just got the phone call from Advanced Adapters this morning to charge my credit card. My 4 speed is going into production.

Also looks like my wheels have finally shipped as of today too.
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