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Old 06-11-2019, 05:49 AM   #101 (permalink)
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looks good
how much stretch?
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:26 AM   #102 (permalink)
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looks good
how much stretch?
Iíll be stretching the frame 18Ēs to match the body stretch.
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Old 06-11-2019, 05:18 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Came home from work today to find that 3 of my 4 Rubicon Expess 1455 SOA springs and th RE poly bushing kit had been delivered.

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Old 06-16-2019, 07:14 PM   #104 (permalink)
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So for my Fatherís Day present the wife took the kids over to her sisters for the day and left me to my own devices all day. So of course I spent the entire day in the garage getting it done on the Jeep today.

First order of business was to rip out the 8.8 and the rear shocks and suspension.






Then I took some time positioning my jack stands and getting the frame sitting nice and level all the way around.





Once it was nice and level I broke out the speed square and the sharpie and marked my cut lines.



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Old 06-16-2019, 07:20 PM   #105 (permalink)
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Roark supply pearl cut off disc on my 4.5Ē Dewalt angle grinder made ridiculously quick work of the chop. Didnít even burn thru half a disc on it.



No turning back now.





The new Dewalt chop saw made quick work chopping me a pair of 18Ē long pieces of steel for the frame stretch.



Then it was a matter of clamping the new sections in place and lining everything up as well as I could.






Then I fired up the welder and burned them in.







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Old 06-16-2019, 07:29 PM   #106 (permalink)
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I still need to make and burn in the fishplates but I am holding off on that until I burn in the spring hangers as they will fall on the rear joints. So with that in mind I switched gears to start trying to get the rear suspension mocked in.





In this shot you can get a feel for how far back I stretched



And yes it will be SOA. I was just mocking up like this to give me an idea where the rear axle will sit and by this time I didnít have it in me to get it off the dolly.

Now, that being said I have not burned in the fixed hanger yet. Iíd like some opinions on this shackle angle. No weight on it at all right now. Iíve read I should shoot for about 45* but thatís with weight on it right? So should I go shallower or deeper with no weight on it? Where the frame fixed end sits will dictate the shackle angle.



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Old 06-17-2019, 03:46 AM   #107 (permalink)
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I'd say it depends on how much weight is there in the end, kind of hard to tell I'm sure. The shackle is pretty vertical to slightly inverted (in one of the photos) looking at the top portion of the boomerang. So, depending on weight and spring settle I'd say you're there....Edit, maybe put a good tack on it and burn it in when you have it under it's weight?

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Old 06-17-2019, 05:57 PM   #108 (permalink)
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I'd say it depends on how much weight is there in the end, kind of hard to tell I'm sure. The shackle is pretty vertical to slightly inverted (in one of the photos) looking at the top portion of the boomerang. So, depending on weight and spring settle I'd say you're there....Edit, maybe put a good tack on it and burn it in when you have it under it's weight?
Yeah I got to thinking about it today and it makes sense to tack the frame mounts in for now with the shackle close to vertical. When the weight is on it it should push the bottom of the shackle out. How far out it will go is the question.
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Old 06-17-2019, 06:04 PM   #109 (permalink)
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So I only got a couple hours in today. Wife was out running errands most of the day and I was on dad duty. I decided to try and start working up some fish plates so I rummaged thru my steel supply and came up with a long length of 3Ēx 1/8Ē I believe flat stock. Itís pretty crusty as my steel storage is outside but I cleaned it up with a flap disc. I cut myself 8 chunks at 6Ē in length. Figure I will plate the inside and outside of each joint. I may place the top of the joints too but I havenít decided for sure yet.

To give myself some more weld area I cut a pair of 1.5Ē diameter holes in them. Plan is to weld the entire outer edge of the plates and weld around the inside of the holes I cut as well. The way I placed them each hole will fall on either original frame or new frame piece.

To cut the holes I used an annular cutter. These things are the shit and I will never use a hole saw on anything but wood ever again.







I didnít get the chance to start burning any in as my daughter came out to see what I was up to and promptly decided to grab one of the plates I had just finished cleaning up with a flap disc which was still hot. hopefully she learned a small lesson at least.
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Old 06-20-2019, 08:10 PM   #110 (permalink)
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So I noticed as I was working on Monday that my 2 year old $40 amazon auto darkening welding hood wasnít always actually darkening when I was welding. I tried sitting it out in the sun to recharge it to no avail. So then I tried replacing the batteries to find they were soldered into the board. Rather than waste time screwing with a cheap mediocre helmet I decided to just buy a new one. After all I still have lots of welding to do on this project. My lovely wife was still kind of mad at me about the flash burn incident and insisted I just buy a good one this time. So I did a bit of reasearch and pulled the trigger on this bad boy from Esab.



Havenít gotten to use it yet but just taking it out of the box and looking it over Iím impressed. This is my first professional grade hood and the difference is super obvious. Website says it comes with 1 spare clear and 1 spare yellow outer shield, but in the box there were 2 of each, a spare inner shield, a nice lined bag to store the hood in, and a bandanna to wear under it. 8 memory slots with a lcd touchscreen to adjust all the various settings, grind mode, etc. I canít wait to lay a couple of beads with it.
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:49 AM   #111 (permalink)
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So I noticed as I was working on Monday that my 2 year old $40 amazon auto darkening welding hood wasnít always actually darkening when I was welding. I tried sitting it out in the sun to recharge it to no avail. So then I tried replacing the batteries to find they were soldered into the board. Rather than waste time screwing with a cheap mediocre helmet I decided to just buy a new one. After all I still have lots of welding to do on this project. My lovely wife was still kind of mad at me about the flash burn incident and insisted I just buy a good one this time. So I did a bit of reasearch and pulled the trigger on this bad boy from Esab.



Havenít gotten to use it yet but just taking it out of the box and looking it over Iím impressed. This is my first professional grade hood and the difference is super obvious. Website says it comes with 1 spare clear and 1 spare yellow outer shield, but in the box there were 2 of each, a spare inner shield, a nice lined bag to store the hood in, and a bandanna to wear under it. 8 memory slots with a lcd touchscreen to adjust all the various settings, grind mode, etc. I canít wait to lay a couple of beads with it.

LOL same same story here
amazon helmet kept flashing me, and i pulled trigger on sentinel 50
love it so far and grind mode is

figured 350 $ for helmet is cheaper than trip to doctor lol
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:45 PM   #112 (permalink)
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LOL same same story here
amazon helmet kept flashing me, and i pulled trigger on sentinel 50
love it so far and grind mode is

figured 350 $ for helmet is cheaper than trip to doctor lol
Glad to hear another positive review on it. I was kind of between this one and the Miller auto darkening. Read a fair few reviews from people saying they liked the A50 better than the Miller helmet so I went for it. After my last flash burn experience Iím ok with spending the dough on a good one. My eyes were bothering me for a good month after torching off the brackets on the 70. Not an experience I am anxious to repeat. I canít wait to try it out on my next day off.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:09 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Iíve got the Esab too. I really like how it sits close to your head when working under the rig main reason I went with it.

Build is looking awesome.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:28 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Iíll be stretching the frame 18Ēs to match the body stretch.
Iíam curious and maybe youíve stated it earlier in this thread why 18Ē? And since you in California I imagine no top is necessary.
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:24 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Iíam curious and maybe youíve stated it earlier in this thread why 18Ē? And since you in California I imagine no top is necessary.
I think I did. I know LJ length is 15 and some odd fraction of inches longer than stock. As you said, Iím in SoCal so running a full top isnít really a concern for me. I have only been running a safari style bikini top year round for the last 5 years or so. Rarely run doors if ever. The simple reason is I like nice round simple numbers. So I rounded up a little from the LJ spec to a nice even 18Ēs. This also let me cleanly split my tub stretch at 9Ēs to the upper floor and 9Ēs to the lower. Worked out perfectly to give me the space for the PRP rear bench for the kids and the fuel cell behind it as well as some decent additional leg room in the back.


On another note, what are you guys running for settings on the A50 for MIG? Yellow shield or clear? Which do you prefer?
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Old 06-22-2019, 05:19 AM   #116 (permalink)
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i tried both , i dont think it matter

i almost got miller but headgear reviews were bad
thats why i got the 50
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Old 06-24-2019, 02:39 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Spent some time today doing some fishing. Fish plating that is! I got to try out the new hood which btw is friggin awesome!

First I burned in the 3Ē wide plates I knocked out last week on the sides of the frame. As I said before they are 6Ēs long. I tried to get them pretty well centered over the joint.



Then I went ahead and made up some plates for the top of the frame as well. Found a chunk of 2Ēx 3/16Ē flat stock in my metal pile. I again cut them at 6Ēs long and cut some holes in them.





Obviously I still need to make some skinny plates for above the spring hangers. I got the drivers side frame plates completely finished and burned in and one side plate and half of the top plate on the passenger side before I ran out of MiG mix. So I had to stop there and run over to West Air for a fresh bottle of welding gas.
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Old 07-01-2019, 01:43 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Ok, so got a fair bit done this weekend.
1st I finished the fish plates I started last week. Got my new MiG bottle hooked up but I was still getting fisheyes in my welds. I looked over to see the gauges on the regulator basically just spinning. Great. Dead gas regulator at 6 pm on a Sunday.

Amazingly, I discovered I had a spare, brand new, never used regulator setup sitting in a cabinet over my welding table. Donít remember when or where I got it. But I threw it on and was back in business.

Today was a big day. I started by finishing removing and labeling the last of the engine wiring harness. Then I finished ripping out the steering, Dana 30, front shocks, front leaf springs, steering box, etc. yanked the grille and the radiator. Drained the oil, then decided it was finally time to rip out the engine and transmission.









So after all that, the YJ is finally down to bare frame apart from the work I have already done in the rear and the factory skid plate.







So my next steps from here will be to order my new motor mounts as my 17 year old M.O.R.E bombproof mounts are worn out. Planning to order the Brown Dog 1Ē MML mounts with poly bushings. Order the new Stroker motor. Take the transmission in for a rebuild. While I am waiting on that I am going to finish cleaning the frame and removing all the remaining factory mounts and brackets that I wonít be using from the frame. Maybe go ahead and start mocking in the front spring hangers and shackle hangers. Then I can really get rolling on the rebuild phase.
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Old 07-05-2019, 08:04 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Well the Brown Dog 1” MML came in today. Also got a phone call from the local shipping company to arrange the delivery of the new ATK 4.6L stroker motor. It will be delivered on Tuesday. Not a bad turn around time on the motor as I placed the order just a few days ago.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:43 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Snuck in a good 45 minutes this morning while the wife and baby were still asleep. I pulled the engine stand out of my outdoor storage area in preparation for the delivery of the Stroker on Tuesday. Plan is to paint the block and build it all up on the stand before I actually go to drop it in.

Once I had that dug out I went ahead and removed the factory skid plate. Amazingly all 6 bolts came right out without any fuss. I will be building my own flat belly (as flat as I can get with the Atlas anyway) to replace it.



Plan for tomorrow is to finish cutting off and smoothing out all the remaining factory brackets I wonít be using. Sway bar mounts, shock mounts, body mounts, etc. maybe start mocking in the front suspension if I have time.

I also unpacked the new Brown Dog 1Ē Lift motor mounts. Nice looking pieces. And my 15 year old M.O.R.E bombproof motor mounts are definitely past due to be replaced. The bushings are toast. Went with the lift mounts this time to help me tuck up the drivetrain for the flat belly.



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Old 07-07-2019, 10:46 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Just a note about fish plating. You shouldn't have the two fish plates line up. For example, if your two vertical plates on each side of the frame are 4" past the joint, make the top and bottom plates 2" or 6" past the joint. Some people would just weld the top and bottom with no plate.

The idea is generally if metal cracks, it cracks next to a weld. If it starts next to a weld, it will follow next to it. If your two plates are close to the corner, the crack might jump to the next plate and continue to follow it around. If it is two inches away, it might not make the jump.

Anyways, progress is good. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 07-08-2019, 06:04 AM   #122 (permalink)
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Just a note about fish plating. You shouldn't have the two fish plates line up. For example, if your two vertical plates on each side of the frame are 4" past the joint, make the top and bottom plates 2" or 6" past the joint. Some people would just weld the top and bottom with no plate.

The idea is generally if metal cracks, it cracks next to a weld. If it starts next to a weld, it will follow next to it. If your two plates are close to the corner, the crack might jump to the next plate and continue to follow it around. If it is two inches away, it might not make the jump.

Anyways, progress is good. Thanks for sharing.
too late now
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Old 07-08-2019, 08:09 AM   #123 (permalink)
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too late now
Yea, I doubt he'll have a problem. Most people don't go to the trouble of cutting and welding the center holes. I think that helps a lot.
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Old 07-08-2019, 12:46 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Well made some more progress today. I finished cleaning up the entire drivers side frame rail front to back. Removed all of the factory brackets that were left, spent some time filling in the factory holes for the crumple zone and all the various little holes Iíve drilled in the frame over the years. Cut off the shock mounts front and rear, the remaining body mounts, and the shackle and spring hangers as well as the e-brake brackets and such. Then when it was all cleaned up and smoothed our I got to work welding on new stuff.



First I burned in the new Motobilt front shackle hanger. The. I jumped to the welding table and welded together the new spring hanger. Factory next to the new Motobilt spring hanger.



After that I welded together three of the Swag high clearance body mounts. Again, factory junk next to Swagís beef.



Then I hopped back over to the frame and burned in the new Swag body mounts. If I bend or brake one of these I have way bigger things to worry about.





The last thing I addressed today was some cancer I found on the frame underneath the factory rear shock mount. When I peeled it off I discovered a couple of small rust holes underneath it. The way they welded them in I am not surprised. It basically makes a perfect little pocket to hold water and crud. I suspect I will find a similar problem under the passenger side mount when I remove it.

So to fix it, luckily I ordered a foot more of the frame steel then I actually needed to do the stretch. I cut a 7Ē long piece off of the remaining foot and then split it in half making a pair of L shapes the exact dimensions of the frame rail. I cleaned up the area as best I could, sprayed a couple of coats of weld thru primer over the area and capped it with my L plate and burned it in. The plate goes a few inches past the rusted out section on each side and is burned into good steel all the way around.








As for the fish plating thing, Iím not too worried about it. I fully welded the seam all the way around first. The plates are just extra reinforcements. I also wound up having to have the rear body mounts partially overlapping the side fish plates so it is even further connected to the original frame now thru that.
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Old 07-09-2019, 04:51 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Came home from work to a nicely crated 4.6L Stroker long block from ATK. Luckily the delivery guy was super cool and despite them telling me on the phone they are curbside only he rolled it right up to the garage for me on the pallet jack. Can’t wait to get it unpacked and on the engine stand. Gotta place a fat order with Summit racing for the rest of the stuff I need to build it up.

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