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Old 08-01-2019, 07:48 AM   #151 (permalink)
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I would never use Aluminum for brake lines. I know people do successfully, but besides being soft and vulnerable to damage, if not supported well it can crack from vibration. I would use NiCopp instead if you need more flexibility.
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:58 AM   #152 (permalink)
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I would never use Aluminum for brake lines. I know people do successfully, but besides being soft and vulnerable to damage, if not supported well it can crack from vibration. I would use NiCopp instead if you need more flexibility.


I was referring to the aluminum for fuel. Copper nickel for brakes.
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Old 08-01-2019, 08:24 AM   #153 (permalink)
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I was referring to the aluminum for fuel. Copper nickel for brakes.
Ah, thanks for the correction.
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Old 08-01-2019, 09:17 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Liquid is not compressible and you donít need a ton of flow. Stick with 3/16. I ran 3/16 and my brakes are fine with 2500hd brakes front and rear. I did however use hard line as much as possible. Only used braided line at the joints and calipers. Heard running all soft lines can make brakes spongy. Makes for a lot of connections though. The copper nickel hard line is the easiest line I have ever worked with as far as bending and flaring (super soft). You can get a 16í roll cheaper on amazon than summit. I used the same summit premium hose for fuel. You can save some $ by going with aluminum 3/8 line down frame rail and have the summit braided line at the tank and engine. I went with stainless, but if I was to do it over again Iíd go aluminum. It was much easier to manipulate (especially because I had the body on running the lines). I wasnít able to bend one of my lines to exactly follow the other which bugged the shit out of me. I used aluminum on my tank vent line. If you need any part numbers for fittings let me know.

]
3/16Ē it is then. I was actually looking at Jegs for my brake hard line stuff and maybe the flex lines as well. They have some nice kits for a good price. I actually spent some time planning and sketching out my brake system today. I already have the SS flex lines to the calipers front and rear. Purchased those when I was getting the axles all assembled.

For the fuel lines Iím just going to keep it simple and run that Summit line front to rear and skip the aluminum hard line. Saving a couple of bucks on that is kind of a moot point at this juncture.

The one thing I am curious about that I havenít gotten the time to check myself yet is whether or not the quick connect fittings used at the fuel rail will also work at the fuel pump connections or not. If they do this is gonna be stupid simple.


In other news, I realized this morning that I forgot to install the stupid rubber timing snubber in the new timing cover before I installed it. So yeah, that has to come back off so I can remedy that.
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Old 08-02-2019, 10:51 AM   #155 (permalink)
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Build. The General Lee. YJ, tons, 40s, stretch, leaves.

I had to use these to adapt the 6AN line on the pump. You have to cut the bulge of the nipple off. Also, I did have to end drill some of the 5/16 adapter because the line coming out of the sending unit necks up to 3/8 before it bends into the sending unit.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165006erl

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-at165056erl
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Old 08-03-2019, 10:17 PM   #156 (permalink)
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You are the man John! Thanks for that!!

I was doing some research and shopping and I think I am changing up my hose. Summit only sells that premium line in 20 foot lengths. That should be enough for the fuel lines. However I am also now thinking I want to use the same hose for the trans cooler lines. I really like the idea of using the same hose as much as I can to simplify spare parts. The Summit hose comes out to about $7.75 a foot. The Russel Pro Classic lone is pretty much the same thing and available in 50 foot lengths which brings the cost down to $6 a foot. That should be way more than enough line for all my fuel plumbing, my trans cooler lines, and anything else I may need -6AN line for. Should also leave me a fair bit extra so I can toss a couple feet in the tool box with a couple of field serviceable couplers in case I ever need to patch a line out on the trail.

My winters shifter came in yesterday. New timing cover gasket and a few other small parts as well. Kids and wife willing I’ll get the engine assembly done this weekend and get the transmission attached again. Maybe even get it between the frame rails.
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Old 08-05-2019, 03:59 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Well as usual I didnít get quite as far as I wanted to today. However I did get the engine as assembled as it is going to be before dropping it between the frame rails.

First I put the intake manifold back together. New manifold pressure sensor installed, the new 27 lb and hour 4 hole fuel injectors, new fuel pressure regulator, the BBK 62 MM throttle body, etc.



Then I started bolting more stuff on to the motor. Got the Banks header, I take manifold, new harmonic balancer, freshly painted AC compressor (for my on board air system) Powermaster 170 amp alternator, idler pulleys, fan belt, new temp sensor, etc all bolted on and locked down.










After all that I really did want to bolt the trans back on, but I decided to be on the safe side Iíd be better off getting one of my buddies over to help man handle the motor and trans around. So next weekend I have a buddy coming by to help me with all that and getting it between the rails at last.

So in the meantime I went ahead and finished grinding the last rough spots of the frame down smooth and started drilling and installing nutserts in the frame that will be used to secure the fuel and brake lines. I decided it would be easier to do that now before the drivetrain goes in so I got that out of the way real quick.
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:20 PM   #158 (permalink)
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Wasnít expecting to see these just yet but today I came home to half of my bumpstop order.



2Ē diameter 4Ē stroke

And yes, I am going to run air bumps with leaf springs.
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Old 08-07-2019, 04:09 AM   #159 (permalink)
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And yes, I am going to run air bumps with leaf springs.
I did that on the CJ for a year till i switched to coilovers, they worked well... had to mount them inside the framerails up front

Last edited by Tacedaddy; 08-07-2019 at 04:09 AM.
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Old 08-07-2019, 08:11 PM   #160 (permalink)
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I did that on the CJ for a year till i switched to coilovers, they worked well... had to mount them inside the framerails up front
Yeah Iím kind of thinking that is what I am going to have to do front and rear. Planning to outboard the shocks out back. Once I get the engine back between the rails this will all be much easier to start figuring out. Itís hard to really see how this will all fit together at the moment with just the bare frame. This should start moving along a bit more quickly once I have the motor and trans in.

My other pair of bumps were delivered today as well so I now have all 4 with the cans. I went with the Profenders because it was the best price I could find. I just couldnít bring myself to drop over a grand for Fox or King air bumps and cans.
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Old 08-11-2019, 06:11 PM   #161 (permalink)
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Ok, super productive day today and a lot to unpack. So bear with me as this is gonna be a couple of posts.

First thing I did was address the rotted out grille mount while I was waiting for my buddy to come over and help me with the engine install. Piece of 1/8Ē plate with a fresh body mount hole cut in it burned in over the rotted steel.





Then my buddy showed up and we got to work installing the flexplate and the transmission to the engine.





Then we went ahead and maneuvered it in between the frame rails and got it locked down on the new Brown Dog motor mounts.





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Old 08-11-2019, 06:18 PM   #162 (permalink)
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Once the engine and trans were between the rails I went ahead and supported the tail housing of the transmission with a ratchet strap to the rafter in the garage to give me room to work underneath it to fab up the crossmember.

For the crossmember I used the Ruffstuff universal crossmember mount kit, their giant trick tab, and some 1.5Ē DOM tube.

The Ultra beefy 1/2Ē tabs burned into the frame






The crossmember I knocked together. Not painting it yet as I may build off of this a bit to support the Atlas.



Installed. Flat belly shouldnít be a problem.








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Old 08-11-2019, 06:25 PM   #163 (permalink)
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Running out of energy I made a final push. I raised the frame up to roughly ride height though I think it will be a bit higher. At least gave me enough clearance to slap the axles under the frame and finish burning in the spring and shackle hangers.

I got some measurements from a couple other YJ owners and set the Motobilt spring hangers up so the center hole of the hangers is at the factory distance from the shackle hanger. This way I can move the spring eye to the outer most hole if I need to to adjust my shackle angles later when itís under its own weight. Then I went ahead and burned them all in.







And thatís about where I ran out of steam for the day. I think my next goal is going to be to hang the Atlas off the transmission. Kind of need that in for figuring my pinion angles and such.
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Old 08-15-2019, 08:38 PM   #164 (permalink)
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So I was wasting a bit of time when it was slow at work today looking at some ideas to support the heavy ass of the Atlas 4 speed and I came across this article from 4Wheeler magazine. They did a tube crossmember with the TMR customs tail cone support, but at the frame end tie ins they used rod ends instead of bushings.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/tr...transfer-case/



At first I was looking at like WTF, but the more I look at it the more I kind of think it makes sense and could work quite well. My understanding is the tail shouldn’t be too rigidly mounted or it will crack the transmission tailhousing. I also feel that the 140 lbs of weight (double that of the 231) hanging in thin air unsupported will have the same result. Something like this would support the case but still allow for a decent amount of movement if needed I would think. Having the crossmember able to rotate a bit like that on the axis of the rod ends would let it move but not move too much no?

What are everyone else’s thoughts on this type of set up for some rear support? Ruffstuff has a 3/4” rod end set for like $60 so it wouldn’t be prohibitively expensive to fabricate this. I’m just kind of up in the air on whether it’s a good idea or not.
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Old 08-16-2019, 02:39 AM   #165 (permalink)
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I know people have made supports for them, but supposedly AA wonít warranty them if they have a support. :dunno: I would think though as long as your support is on the centerline of rotation aligned with the trans support then it shouldnít put extra torque stress on the drive train. Funny I was literally reading about this very topic yesterday.
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Old 08-19-2019, 08:01 PM   #166 (permalink)
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Well not a very productive weekend this week. I only managed to get 2 hours in the garage. So I went ahead and filled the Atlas, installed the site tube and the studs and went ahead and got it installed.

As usual, working by myself so I had to get a little creative. To get my stud pattern I made a cardboard template of the tailhousing to use to set the bolt pattern for the studs. Got them I stalled in the case and used a dolly to roll it in place under the frame. To lift it into place I decided to wrap a ratchet strap securely around the case. This was my best option as I couldnít use the studs for the lift or I wouldnít be able to seat the case. Then I used my now trusty harbor freight come along to the rafters and hoisted it up and swung it into place. Sealed the joint with some red RTV and locked down the studs.







And yes, itís flat clocked. Kind of thinking I maybe cutting the floor of the tub a bit under the front passenger seat to clear this sucker.

I am still up in the air on whether or not to add another support for it. It feels pretty solid the way it is, but I dunno, thatís still a lot of weight hanging off the ass of the tranny.
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:30 AM   #167 (permalink)
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I think a support is a good idea. I once had a "out of balance" driveshaft break the adapter between the tranny and T-case. It was a PITA. I don't like the rod end deal. It would allow movement in the vertical plane, but not horizontal or rotation. I think just some good old fashioned rubber would allow some movement in all directions, but not too much.

I'm no expert on Atlas though. Take my advice with a grain of salt.
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:41 PM   #168 (permalink)
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I think a support is a good idea. I once had a "out of balance" driveshaft break the adapter between the tranny and T-case. It was a PITA. I don't like the rod end deal. It would allow movement in the vertical plane, but not horizontal or rotation. I think just some good old fashioned rubber would allow some movement in all directions, but not too much.

I'm no expert on Atlas though. Take my advice with a grain of salt.
Iím using poly on the other mounts right now. Shouldnít I stick to the same material thru out?

I was kind of kicking around the idea today of a welded tube crossmember with the TMR customs tail cone support under the yoke. Use some tube flanges on either end so I could drop out the center section if I ever have to pull the case. This would also give me a spot to mount my anti wrap shackle mount. Iím not sure if thatís too much pressure for a crossmember like that though.
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Old 08-22-2019, 09:29 PM   #169 (permalink)
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Ok so I think I have a workable plan for the Atlas. I am going to knock up a welded tube cross member welded to the frame. I ordered some 4 bolt tube flanges from Ruffstuff today that I will use to make the center chunk of the crossmember under the tailhousing removeable. This way if I ever have to drop the case I can without cutting the crossmember out. I will also weld the TMR Atlas tailhousing support I ordered today to this removable center section. I plan to guest the tube at the frame to help resist twisting. The TMR support is bushed so that will take care of allowing a little wiggle on the case.

Then I am planning to add an L bend to the passenger side from the frame to the crossmember before the flange as a second tube. Again this will help prevent the tube from twisting as well as give me a place to mount the shackle end of my antiwrap bar far enough back that the shackle won’t hit the Atlas when it moves.

I also ordered the Sky Offroad Design springless high steer arms with knuckle tie in and the stud and bolt kit for the 60 today.

Probably not going to get much of anything done this weekend as we are taking my daughter up to Knotts Berry Farm for her birthday.
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Old 08-22-2019, 09:47 PM   #170 (permalink)
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Sounds like you got a plan. Being able to easily unbolt an obstacle when servicing a vehicle is crucial. I made my exhaust be able to unbolt into 5 different sections for maintenance reasons. It has already paid off a few times. How far in are you going to put the flanges? Sleeved through holes with button head bolts through the frame would look sick.
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Old 08-22-2019, 10:57 PM   #171 (permalink)
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Sounds like you got a plan. Being able to easily unbolt an obstacle when servicing a vehicle is crucial. I made my exhaust be able to unbolt into 5 different sections for maintenance reasons. It has already paid off a few times. How far in are you going to put the flanges? Sleeved through holes with button head bolts through the frame would look sick.
I was thinking the center of the crossmember would be the removable section.

U===|===|===U

^^^ something like that. U representing the frame rails and the | being the flanges. Bolted together with 4 grade 8 bolts per flange should be plenty stout. Off hand Iím figuring the removable chunk will be about a foot long. Just enough to allow the tailhousing to drop straight down thru the gap for removal.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:04 AM   #172 (permalink)
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Build. The General Lee. YJ, tons, 40s, stretch, leaves.

10-4. Donít forget about having to pull the case backward for removal. Leave enough room to clear the case. 4 grade 8 bolts will definitely do. I only had 2 bolt flanges on my traction bar crossmember. They held up fine.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:51 AM   #173 (permalink)
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I'm not sure why you want the center to unbolt as apposed to the whole cross member? Yes, you might be able to get it out, but wouldn't it be easier if the whole member came out? I don't really see it being any stronger unless you have some kind of triangulation thing to the stub ends.
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:52 PM   #174 (permalink)
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I'm not sure why you want the center to unbolt as apposed to the whole cross member? Yes, you might be able to get it out, but wouldn't it be easier if the whole member came out? I don't really see it being any stronger unless you have some kind of triangulation thing to the stub ends.
Well I kind of figured it would be easier to put the flanges inboard and make the center removable. If I moved the flanges to the frame, I would have to thru drill and sleeve 12 bolt holes in the frame for the design I have in mind. Since I want to mount the shackle end of my antiwrap to this crossmember as well I donít think bushing mounting it is the way to go as that would allow too much flex and movement on the antiwrap. I knocked this together in a few minutes with some drawing app on my iPad. Should give you an idea of what I have in mind.



I was also going to add a couple of gussets to the tube at the frame but forgot to sketch those in. Light blue across the tail one is the TMR support ring. Orange tube would be some DOM tubing. 1.75Ē x .120 like I used for the trans crossmember.

Thoughts on this from the peanut gallery?
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Old 08-23-2019, 09:08 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Build. The General Lee. YJ, tons, 40s, stretch, leaves.

No need for gussets. It will be plenty strong. I still think with that set up you will have issues with clearance if you had to remove the transfer case. You could run tabs on the frame and use a bushing at the end of the tubes. That would keep it tight to the frame and you donít have to drill a ton of holes. Another way wild be to use these tube couplers.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...hoCVAAQAvD_BwE

You could still use the 4 bolt flanges I would just keep them as close to the frame as possible. You could weld nuts on the flanges. Weld a short piece of tube that is long enough to clear the length of the bolt coming through the flange nut. Then you could weld the inner ID of the flange to the tube. That would keep no more than 1Ē off the frame. Thatís all I got for peanuts.

Edit: just looked st the antiwrap bar. Why not have it all just run off 1 crossmember tube? That would make the traction bar longer and reduce AS.
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