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Old 08-06-2019, 09:18 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I got the rest of the steering figured out and packaged. The panhard and drag link are the same length and plane. Everything clears at full bump. Barely but it clears. I was able to keep the panhard straight with no bends. It steers 45 degrees with 2 turns lock to lock. Still need to box in the frame side panhard mount. Then make spring pads and shock towers.

I also made a run to the wrecking yard and picked up a bunch of Toyota driveshaft parts. I think I’m going to have to end up using Toyota shafts in my two piece front. It’s the only way I can clear the front link mount and still get enough angle at full droop. The offset of my 1990 Dana 60 isn’t helping that any, but on the plus side the drive shaft sits right above and almost parallel to the lower link. That should help protect it.








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Old 09-18-2019, 08:56 PM   #52 (permalink)
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It's been awhile since I've updated. I made the ram mount for the front. It should protect the tie rod ends well. The drivers side welds to the diff cover and can be removed with 3 bolts and the diff cover bolts. With the drivers side removed I can still fit my case spreader and get to the gears easily



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Old 09-18-2019, 09:03 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I also got everything on the front suspension in it's final place and ready for final welding. It cycles 6.25" up and 5.75" down and should sit 4" higher than stock. I was able to keep all the links and the track bar straight with no bends, for strength purposes.

I had to ditch the 14" Kings, there was no way to make them fit. I got with Ryan at Accutune and he was as helpful and knowledgeable as they come. We settled on a 12" x 2.5" with a over the top cap to keep it as short as possible. This made packaging much easier. The only downside is the lead time to special order from King. Hope fully they will be here any day. I have cardboard templates made for the upper shock mounts I'm just waiting on the shocks to get here to finalize the exact shock location.

I'll be taking a trip to my buddies machine shop this weekend so I can jump on his lathe and turn some bump cans from some 2.5" x .25" DOM. Then the bumps will sit inside the front coils.

I was also able to get onboard with Raceline. I'm exited to see my new wheel package show up in a few days! Their wheels speak for themselves and so far they have been excellent to work with.

I already have the rear suspension torn back apart for final weld and paint. Hopefully in the next week or two I can do the same to the front. I'm ready for this to be a roller in the next couple weeks. Then on to the cage, safety stuff, and plumbing











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Old 09-18-2019, 09:21 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Old 09-19-2019, 12:19 PM   #55 (permalink)
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diggin the fab build..........

not to rain on it, I think you may need to revisit that bend in your tie rod.

imagine the right front tire bound up hard next to a rock or whatever.

and you're trying to turn into it. to go over or whatever.,

I see that tierod making a big u bend out of it.,.......

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Old 09-19-2019, 01:02 PM   #56 (permalink)
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diggin the fab build..........



not to rain on it, I think you may need to revisit that bend in your tie rod.



imagine the right front tire bound up hard next to a rock or whatever.



and you're trying to turn into it. to go over or whatever.,



I see that tierod making a big u bend out of it.,.......



--Sherpa


If I was running a hydro assist box I would agree, but I have converted the steering box to manual and will be running a Sweet valve before the box. The steering box and drag link will see very little stress. Their main purpose is to give feedback to the Sweet valve so it can give hydraulic fluid to the ram where all the force is applied. This is the same system some of the 4500 guys are running with boat steering cables instead of a steering box, since they see very little force.


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Old 09-22-2019, 01:04 PM   #57 (permalink)
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I was able to get some time on a buddies lathe and turn a few parts from some 2.5” x 1/4” wall DOM. Made some bump mounts and bearing support for the front two piece drive shaft.








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Old 10-01-2019, 10:21 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Just found this thread, are there anymore updates on this build ??
Oops my bad, didn't get to page 3 with all the current updates.
Very nice build going on there!!

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Old 10-25-2019, 07:29 AM   #59 (permalink)
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King finally got my front shocks built, and then Accutune tuned them, so I got the front end fabed up and ready to be welded out. Only thing left is to add is a sway bar, but since I don’t have it yet that will have to wait. I wasn’t happy with the original frame side mounts. They would have caused some bad two piece drive shaft angles and were shorter that I wanted causing more axle shift and other issues. The only way to get longer links, clear the driveshaft, and still keep a good turning radius was to use a bent link. I got some 2” x .25” wall links with an 18 degree bend. I made some gussets for the bend and sleeved it over some 1.5” x .25” wall. Hopefully this give them enough strength to not have to rebuild links every race. The inside of the lower link mount doesn’t slant all the way to the frame. It stays 2” lower than the frame so it should smoothly transition from the link to the skid plate n the rocks.








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Old 10-25-2019, 07:31 AM   #60 (permalink)
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After making several versions of shock towers from cardboard and MDF I finally came up with a version that clears everything. I inboarded the shocks a little to keep them slightly inside of the bump stops. This should give me the full 12” of vertical travel and still bottom the bump stop before the shock at full articulation. Shocks are raked back at 7-10 degrees depending on where they are in the travel.










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Old 10-28-2019, 09:38 PM   #61 (permalink)
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I got the engine and transmission in their final location. I needed motor mounts taller than the standard 1” lift. Brown Dog Offroad offers standard height up to a 2” lift. I got them to hook me up with some 1 1/2” lift mounts with poly bushings. I also got a set of their Super Brackets that tie into several more engine locations than factory. They look way beefier than factory and everything bolted right up. Now I clear the oil pan at full bump.








I fabed up a crossmember for the tranny and transfer case from some repurposed DOM. It mounts on both frame ends with poly bushings and sits 2” below the frame to help support the skid too. Then made plates to tie into the transmission and a plate that ties into 3 of the tail shaft bolts of the Dana 300.





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Old 11-10-2019, 09:56 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Had a productive weekend. I got the rear shock mounts finalized. They’re raked at around 25 degrees. Which happens to be about what the windshield is so the don’t look horrible. This keeps the lower mounts above the lower link mounts for clearance. And since the axle travels away from the shock in its arc, it’s almost a 1:1 ratio. With an inch of shaft showing at full bump there’s 13.5” of travel and the shock moves 13”. Next I need to order up some aluminum lowers and weld it out.






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Old 11-10-2019, 10:05 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I also got the rest of the front ram mount/tie rod protection fabed and then welded out everything on the front axle. Had to pull all the gears and preheat the cast section. Guess I should have though of that before installing the gears and Zip Locker.... Doh!!!






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Old 11-11-2019, 09:35 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Got the front links sleeved and welded out. Buddy of mine said he was always bending them in his dirt riot car until he stepped up to aluminum. They seem pretty tough to me, but what do I know.







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Old 11-12-2019, 06:48 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I like your idea to gusset the bent upper control arm but I wonder if you've now created a sheer point given the slug/sleeve doesn't run the full length?

Either way, give its an upper link it should be out of harms way. Looks beefy and I'll be curious how it holds up!!
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Old 11-12-2019, 07:01 AM   #66 (permalink)
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I like your idea to gusset the bent upper control arm but I wonder if you've now created a sheer point given the slug/sleeve doesn't run the full length?

Either way, give its an upper link it should be out of harms way. Looks beefy and I'll be curious how it holds up!!


These are actually the front lowers, to clear more steering. The slug goes about 2-2.5” past where the gusset starts so there is some overlap there. My rear uppers are similar but without the slugs since they won’t contact rocks. I figured if I have problems with them I can go to aluminum but lose a little steering.


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Old 11-18-2019, 09:00 AM   #67 (permalink)
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I got some good time in the garage this weekend.

After mocking up my shift cables I ended up changing my crossmember some to clear the cables.



Before welding everything out I made some extra bracing for my front spring and bump mounts. It should be much stronger now that they wrap around the frame.





I got the front axle painted and most of the chassis welded out and painted.





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Old 11-29-2019, 09:27 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Got the frame, front axle, and all the front end parts painted this week. Then reinstalled all the Yukon goodies with Branik machining back into the front Dana 60 along with Reid knuckles and Lugnuts 4x4 brakes. Everything’s reinstalled and ready for wheels and tires. Should have a roller soon. Can’t wait!!






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Old 11-29-2019, 09:30 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Got some time in the garage today and got the rear end welded out. Then let it cool in the blankets. I should be able to get the rear painted and gears reinstalled tomorrow and hopefully have a roller by Sunday.






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Old 11-30-2019, 08:08 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Purdy parts there....
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by LAME [/i]
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The guys designing cages for the D9 dozer on your Christmas list are going about this a bit differently way then a few rednecks, too much beer, and a JD2:D [/B][/QUOTE]

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Old 11-30-2019, 04:42 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Old 12-02-2019, 04:18 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Got all the tires mounted on the Raceline wheels. I always forget how many damn bolts that is. Lol The aluminum and black should look sweet with the black and white color scheme. I’m going to try balancing them with airsoft BBS. I put 10oz per tire.







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Old 12-04-2019, 05:28 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Got everything assembled and the Jeep is now sitting by itself with no jack stands. It’s about 2” higher in the back and 1” higher in the front than I want but I think that should settle once there’s roll cage, fuel, winch, and spares in it. I was super stoked until I made a punch list and realized how much I really have to go. Lol



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Old 12-09-2019, 07:24 PM   #74 (permalink)
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have you tried those before? just thinking 10oz might not be enough. I dunno.

did you get the raceline beadlock ring to meet up face to face with the wheel
without it coning?

I didn't. my 42 treps have a fat bead, therefore, I had to order RL beadlock
spacers...

which are out of stock. since beginning of Nov, expected to arrive dec23.
F-me, I've got 5k worth of rubber and alum sitting for 2 fricken months because
they can't have some rinky dink fab shop gum up some plastic spacers?

--arg.
--Sherpa
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[QUOTE][i]Originally posted by LAME [/i]
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The guys designing cages for the D9 dozer on your Christmas list are going about this a bit differently way then a few rednecks, too much beer, and a JD2:D [/B][/QUOTE]

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Old 12-09-2019, 09:03 PM   #75 (permalink)
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have you tried those before? just thinking 10oz might not be enough. I dunno.



did you get the raceline beadlock ring to meet up face to face with the wheel

without it coning?



I didn't. my 42 treps have a fat bead, therefore, I had to order RL beadlock

spacers...



which are out of stock. since beginning of Nov, expected to arrive dec23.

F-me, I've got 5k worth of rubber and alum sitting for 2 fricken months because

they can't have some rinky dink fab shop gum up some plastic spacers?



--arg.

--Sherpa


I’ve never tried the beads. I googled around and found some charts and 10oz was the heaviest I found for a 37” on a 17” wheel. We’ll see how they do, once I have brakes and a fuel system. Lol

I put one together and it cupped a little so I bought the spacers. I must have gotten mine right before they went in back order.


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