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Old 07-10-2019, 02:05 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Plus size YJ

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Originally Posted by SkysTheLimit View Post
How long are your front ORI's? And what size OD are your aluminum lower links in the front, and how long are they? My build is so similar to yours in so many ways its almost eerie, aside from the frame and tub stretch.


The ORIs are 14 front, 16 rear. I didnt want to go through the hood in the front. I think* I could have pulled off 16s, but it would be close also Driveshaft bind could be an issue as well.

2.5 lowers. Rear is 43-1/4 and front is 33-1/2 wish I would have gone 34 long. I had it at about 5 front stretch, but pulled it back some because I wasnt thrilled with the amount of shank showing.

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Last edited by YJUnlimited; 07-10-2019 at 02:07 AM.
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Old 07-10-2019, 07:05 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Those links are BA, are they from summit machine? How much shaft do you have showing on the ORI's F&R? I was thinking about going 16's on mine but everything I read was saying ORI's ride the best at 50% shaft showing.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:29 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Sweet build, man. Great looking YJ.
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Old 07-10-2019, 08:36 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by g23crawler View Post
Those links are BA, are they from summit machine? How much shaft do you have showing on the ORI's F&R? I was thinking about going 16's on mine but everything I read was saying ORI's ride the best at 50% shaft showing.


Innovative Machining Solutions made my links. There were some hiccups with the whole traction, but they made everything right for the most part. I had them at 4.5" of chrome showing and it rode just fine for the little bit I have driven it. I know the seals still need to break in, but when I pulled into the driveway I barely felt the curb. My thought is that will stay ride height for the most part especially to fit in the garage with the top up (which was my main goal). Currently the belly height is 19-1/4". If I want to do a little go fast Ill raise them up an inch or two. In the front the bridge of the truss is only 1/4" off the radiator at full bump. I have an inch or so more up travel availible in the rear. Much more and there would be no rear quarter panel left. I used the motobilt fender tops in the and made mounts that attach to shock hoops to put the top of the strut just under the fender top.







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Old 07-10-2019, 07:38 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Seems a little overkill for Florida
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Old 07-11-2019, 01:14 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Seems a little overkill for Florida


You should see the mall curbs here! INSANE!
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Old 07-11-2019, 05:09 AM   #32 (permalink)
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I like what you did here. I may borrow your idea. Does this tie into the cage from the top too, or just bolt through the wheel well? Anymore pics?




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Old 07-11-2019, 06:46 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I like what you did here. I may borrow your idea. Does this tie into the cage from the top too, or just bolt through the wheel well? Anymore pics?

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Yes it will tie into the C pillar when I do the cage. The tie in plate pops out just in front of where the C pillar will eventually go. For now I just have the sandwich plate on top. This is all I have in my phone. Let me know if you want something else specifically.

This is a mock up pic. I had swap sides and move it behind the hoop so the strut would clear the tire at full articulation.


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Old 07-14-2019, 05:29 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Both storage boxes done except for seam sealer.











Filled the filler cutout and the hole the PO of my donor tub had cut out for tail lights.





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Old 07-15-2019, 07:05 AM   #35 (permalink)
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looking good
si it some boat stuff for your storage door?
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:11 AM   #36 (permalink)
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looking good

si it some boat stuff for your storage door?


Yeah they are marine hatch doors.

DPI Marine DPF912BLK DPF Flush Series Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NA9RSU..._HMilDbGF9RF84
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:49 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Yeah they are marine hatch doors.

DPI Marine DPF912BLK DPF Flush Series Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017NA9RSU..._HMilDbGF9RF84
cool thanks

when i did my tub i planned something like that in leftover wheel wells but never got to it

i wanted to put speakers in there originally
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Old 07-16-2019, 06:02 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Sometimes your best fab tool is your purse.

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Old 07-17-2019, 06:29 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Plus size YJ

Rear driveshaft unexpectedly came in early today. Have nothing but good things to say about Adams Driveshaft. Definitely BeeftallicA!

Specs:
1350CV flange 2 F pilot, 4.25 bolt circle
2.5x.120 tube
1.5x8 splines
1410 slip
1410 flange yoke 2.68 F pilot, 4.25 bolt circle.
Solid ujoints throughout

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Last edited by YJUnlimited; 07-18-2019 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 07-18-2019, 04:48 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Nice yeh james is a good dude and somehow his 1310 joint shaft is still alive in the back of my CJ

what did you say your final WB was with the stretch and comp cut?
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Old 07-18-2019, 05:12 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Nice yeh james is a good dude and somehow his 1310 joint shaft is still alive in the back of my CJ



what did you say your final WB was with the stretch and comp cut?


I was working with Dan over there. Wheel base is 116.5, I dont have a comp cut though. That was a big thing I was trying to stay away from. I wanted the full body look. So only way to do that was stretch the body and frame. Also didnt want to have to buy custom tops so the body is LJ dimensions. Will be running an OEM LJ soft top.

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