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Old 01-28-2007, 10:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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High steer arms - tre or heim joints?

I'm getting ready to order me a set of these, and need to know which end is better to use. If I go with the tie-rod ends, I'm going to have to have them taper the holes, otherwise I could use heim joint. How do heims work if you don't have a tapered bolt to keep them tight? Won't they eventually develop play either in the joint or around the bolt hole?
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:16 AM   #2 (permalink)
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tre's are usually better for vehicles that see a lot of street use. i personally went with tre's because i felt they had more misalignment than similar heims.
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Old 01-28-2007, 11:38 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Ya I also went with TRE's. Any high steer arm will have an option to have a tapered hole. Just decide which TRE to go with first being that they don't all use the same taper. I went with chevy 1 ton TRE's extremely solid and with a 7/8" threaded shank you really can't go wrong. Also Heims are not DOT approved and if your state does inspections they will notice.
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:20 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I went with chevy 1 ton TRE's extremely solid and with a 7/8" threaded shank you really can't go wrong.
Are you talking about the drag link, or the tie rod?? I see that all over, that 7/8" is larger than Jeep uses, but my OEM YJ tie rod's TREs are already 7/8". The drag link is smaller though. I want to build a beefy replacement for the OEM tie rod, but I'm hesitant to buy the 7/8" size TREs and tube inserts because Poison Spyder and such say the 7/8" TREs might have a larger taper than my knuckles.
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I using TRE's on a set of parts mike arms...I havn't put a whole lot of use on them but I'm happy enough with them that I'm keeping them after I go full hydro next month or so
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Old 01-28-2007, 03:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Heims will work without a tapered hole to keep them tight, but you need to drill the hole perfectly. With that said, I chose to run Chevy TREs on my highsteer application. I like being able to buy replacements at most auto parts store, it's not easy finding 3/4" heims at the local parts store.

There is also a higher degree of misalignment in most TREs than similar strength heims.
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have been running "1 ton" GM TRE/DLE's for the last 2 seasons and honestly I wish I had never touched them. They bend if you look at them the wrong way. I've got a wasted one on my Jeep now. I lost track of how many I bent. I usually just take them to the auto parts store and get them swapped out but I'm getting sick of bending them every other trip.

I'm placing an order for some 3/4 FK heims this week. A quality heim (not a cheap one) will outlast a conventional taper end, and will still be quiet without any slop.

That whole argument about street use is bullshit, I do not agree with it at all. A couple people I wheel with have street/trail rigs with heims on all steering joints (Janster on here being one of them). Both Jeeps pass PA inspection and see regular street use, and both have been running these joints for a few years with no slop or noise.

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Old 01-28-2007, 07:06 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If I go with the tie-rod ends, I'm going to have to have them taper the holes, otherwise I could use heim joint.
You can buy a reamer and do it yourself. I just made some progress on my steering this weekend.
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Old 01-28-2007, 11:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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You can buy a reamer and do it yourself. I just made some progress on my steering this weekend.
Are those arms the Hummer clearance arms that you often see on ebay? If so what is your opinion of them? Is the quality good?

David
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Old 01-29-2007, 06:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Are those arms the Hummer clearance arms that you often see on ebay? If so what is your opinion of them? Is the quality good?

David
those look like the hummer arms that Harsh Terrain sells, not sure If they sell on Ebay, but I love the harsh terrain 60 arms, they are made well

I am also using GM 1 ton tre's
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Old 01-29-2007, 07:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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those look like the hummer arms that Harsh Terrain sells, not sure If they sell on Ebay, but I love the harsh terrain 60 arms, they are made well

I am also using GM 1 ton tre's
X2, fit and finish was excellent on the Harsh Terrian stuff, I also got the 1" spacers from them so that I didn't have to lower my box quite as much.
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Old 01-29-2007, 08:15 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You can buy a reamer and do it yourself. I just made some progress on my steering this weekend.
I would put at least 2 more grade 5 bolts on each steering arm

nice work
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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How much misalignment do you lose on heims? And what would happen if I tried to drop that side too far, past the point of a heim's movement? Would it break the joint?
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:58 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I would put at least 2 more grade 5 bolts on each steering arm

nice work
I knew one you fawkers would point that out. Still need to get studs ordered up.
And before anyone else says it I know I need a brace from the steering box to the opposite frame rail, it's in work.
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris demartini View Post
I have been running "1 ton" GM TRE/DLE's for the last 2 seasons and honestly I wish I had never touched them. They bend if you look at them the wrong way. I've got a wasted one on my Jeep now. I lost track of how many I bent. I usually just take them to the auto parts store and get them swapped out but I'm getting sick of bending them every other trip.

I'm placing an order for some 3/4 FK heims this week. A quality heim (not a cheap one) will outlast a conventional taper end, and will still be quiet without any slop.

That whole argument about street use is bullshit, I do not agree with it at all. A couple people I wheel with have street/trail rigs with heims on all steering joints (Janster on here being one of them). Both Jeeps pass PA inspection and see regular street use, and both have been running these joints for a few years with no slop or noise.
I've never bent a "one ton TRE". You have to make sure to get the shorter shank ones and have then mostly cranked in.

The other prob you have is your tie rod is up front. When you are trying to turn into an obstacle you are putting the ends in compressiong, which is probably farily easy to buckle anything that size with those forces.

I run my tie rod behind the axle with the ram and when I turn into something my tie rod is in tension, and will never have an issue.

I wish there was a stud type thing that someone would make that would incorporate the same taper/ size as a "one ton TRE" but have a stud above with misalignment built in for a Heim to slide over and bolt on.
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Old 01-29-2007, 02:31 PM   #16 (permalink)
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You mean something like this?



http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_i...roducts_id=770
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Old 01-30-2007, 02:30 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Yessssssssss..... I love it. Thanks! That it was I would run personally, really nothing to have wiggle and get loose with that piece.

Chris, what size are you running to hold up?
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:18 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Chris, what size are you running to hold up?
I run the biggest ones the auto parts store has and they do not hold up.

I don't understand how the tie rod will not be in compression when behind the axle. I bent these ends when my tie rod was behind the axle.
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:36 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by chris demartini View Post
I don't understand how the tie rod will not be in compression when behind the axle. I bent these ends when my tie rod was behind the axle.
He's talking about a situation where you're trying to shove the tire into an obstacle. With the tie rod in front it's pushing to rotate the knuckle in that way which can make the joint buckle/bend easier, where if it's behind the axle it's pulling to rotate the knuckle in that same way so you won't bend the TRE.

Granted though, there are situations where either setup would result in the same thing, depending on whether the front or rear of the tire was wedged.
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Old 01-31-2007, 06:48 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I heard that heim joints and rod ends weren't "technically DOT approved" for steering, is this bullshit?
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