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Old 12-01-2007, 08:54 PM   #126 (permalink)
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i think this is B pillar triangulation, X behind the seats??.....
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Old 12-01-2007, 11:05 PM   #127 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mr Extreme Jeep View Post
Triangulation in the B pillar is something alot of you dont seem to take seriously. I also see alot of excessive cage work up high. Some of these cages would weigh more than the chassis. COG is too high.
Couple of good dones for inspiration. But there is no such thing as a perfect cage. Or is there?

Mines not done yet, here's where it should be soon. (excuse the crappy chop)

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Old 12-02-2007, 10:14 AM   #128 (permalink)
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found some petter pics



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Old 12-02-2007, 10:24 AM   #129 (permalink)
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Mines not done yet, here's where it should be soon. (excuse the crappy chop)
May I ask why not support the rear u-shaped hoop at the ends better? It would look much better and be stronger if the legs went from the bend starts on the U and went down to the bend starts on the down tubes near the C-pillar area.
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Old 12-02-2007, 04:09 PM   #130 (permalink)
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May I ask why not support the rear u-shaped hoop at the ends better? It would look much better and be stronger if the legs went from the bend starts on the U and went down to the bend starts on the down tubes near the C-pillar area.
Something of that sort is in the works. We're messing with ideas on how to get it supported and keep it looking clean. In retrospect, the "U" should have been made a bit bigger and then the tubes going from it down would be done easier and cleaner looking.

It'll probably get a gusset in there, or we'll run a tube down to the rear, or sides.
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:23 AM   #131 (permalink)
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TTT for some more fun
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Old 12-05-2007, 10:30 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:44 PM   #133 (permalink)
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bump for a good thread
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:04 PM   #134 (permalink)
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A customer wanted me to build him a PSC style cage. The only way I'd do it would be though the dash:
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:05 AM   #135 (permalink)
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Ok, question or two for you cage builders..
Is it better for the "B" pillar to be one piece and bring everything to it, or better for the "A" hoop to be one piece and the "B" pillar to be one piece and build to both?

I really like the cage the BTF did for Apeters jeep, and going through all the pics on his build and pic links it looks like the "B" pillar was bent and then all other tube was bent to attach to the "B" pillar.

I'm replacing the cage in my jeep in the next 2-3 weekends and I prefer strength over looks but I'm trying for both.

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Old 01-08-2008, 01:30 AM   #136 (permalink)
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Forgot about this. Mine in and done.

That is an awesome cage. Clean, simple and strong. I look at a bunch of cages on Pirate and see way too much irrelevant tubework. Nice strait clean tubework is where its at. Extra bends, "style" etc are a sign of weakness, and require too much additional tubing for strength.
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:39 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Ok, question or two for you cage builders..
Is it better for the "B" pillar to be one piece and bring everything to it, or better for the "A" hoop to be one piece and the "B" pillar to be one piece and build to both?

I really like the cage the BTF did for Apeters jeep, and going through all the pics on his build and pic links it looks like the "B" pillar was bent and then all other tube was bent to attach to the "B" pillar.

I'm replacing the cage in my jeep in the next 2-3 weekends and I prefer strength over looks but I'm trying for both.

I do not think that there is any strength difference as long as quality materials and design are used. I have notice I snag less trees and crap when the a and c pillar (or down bars) are continuous.
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Old 01-08-2008, 12:38 PM   #138 (permalink)
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95% of Jeeps in this thread do not run a rocker bar....How are you tying the cage into the frame without it? Obviously you could run a 90 deg piece of DOM from frame to flange and sandwich the body...but now you have 2 or 3 horizontal bars extending from the frame for you to get hung up on...Instead of a smooth hoop parallel to the frame, seems to me it would slide better..
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Old 01-08-2008, 04:37 PM   #139 (permalink)
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i have a small piece of tubing bent from the frame to sandwich the body. it is pretty tight to the body, never snagged on it yet. if i was to do it again i would cut the rockers and use tube like you are talking about.....
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:11 PM   #140 (permalink)
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I finally have something to add, thanks to stinkbug









https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=649141
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:03 PM   #141 (permalink)
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It looks a little sparce on that long wheelbase. Is it done?
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:09 PM   #142 (permalink)
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I finally have something to add, thanks to stinkbug
too lazy to look at the other thread. What are the future plans for the rig? If it will remain approximately the height it is (~3") I think it will be fine. Also any pics near the dash? The lack of triangulation anywhere leads me to belive that this will be a low speed rock rig, or it will remain near stock.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:39 AM   #143 (permalink)
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too lazy to look at the other thread. What are the future plans for the rig? If it will remain approximately the height it is (~3") I think it will be fine. Also any pics near the dash? The lack of triangulation anywhere leads me to belive that this will be a low speed rock rig, or it will remain near stock.
Plans not posted in the other thread...

But it is going to be built as a mild wheeler/exploration rig. I'd like to be able to drive it to the trail few hundred miles away, wheel and come home. With that being said its primarily a rock crawler, with the occasional haul ass down the wash. I'm going to add some gussets at some point, but for my uses, I believe it will be enough. deffinitly not as hardcore as some rigs here, but i'm also looking for a wider use than those.

it will be getting at some point:
super 30/44 kit with ARB's
4:1 tcase, sye, cv shaft
35-37 inch tires max
3.5 RE long arm kit
cut whatever sheetmetal to fit the tires, add some tube fenders..
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:06 AM   #144 (permalink)
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Anyone got any more info on these? Very simple set up, I like it.
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:38 PM   #145 (permalink)
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Quote:
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95% of Jeeps in this thread do not run a rocker bar....How are you tying the cage into the frame without it? Obviously you could run a 90 deg piece of DOM from frame to flange and sandwich the body...but now you have 2 or 3 horizontal bars extending from the frame for you to get hung up on...Instead of a smooth hoop parallel to the frame, seems to me it would slide better..
If I get your question, here's how I did mine. This was mid-project, but you can see the feet of of the 4 tie-ins up front:



Underneath the 4 feet are plates immediately under-side with tie-ins at about a 45 degree angle into plates welded to the frame. With a BL, they're at roughly the angle of body mounts. I hit them, but they've never given me problems.





FWIW, the X goes right through the floor, welded to frame, and rears are also plated under & tied to frame.



I'm not really sure what my though process was behind putting the effort into the bolt-together plates for 6 points and just cutting the floor for the X. I think it was probably ease of installation since this was my first big (for me) fab project. I like to think it's probably stout enough that it won't matter.

I'm not a welder.

Hip bars are going in when I don't have to drive this thing to work.

Thanks Beat.

Tom
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Old 02-26-2008, 05:07 PM   #146 (permalink)
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Do you guys put any rubber between the sandwich plates on the body, or just metal on metal?
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Old 02-26-2008, 07:16 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Do you guys put any rubber between the sandwich plates on the body, or just metal on metal?
Mine are metal to metal, with a bushing under the sandwich plate.
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Old 02-26-2008, 07:19 PM   #148 (permalink)
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I really like this cage. It looks strong as hell. I think I would have tried to connect the bottom of the X to the b-pillar, but that would only be to prevent cutting the floor. Might have to do some funky bending to get around the seats though. I do think the way the X is done here is stronger though.
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:42 AM   #149 (permalink)
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If I get your question, here's how I did mine. This was mid-project, but you can see the feet of of the 4 tie-ins up front:



Underneath the 4 feet are plates immediately under-side with tie-ins at about a 45 degree angle into plates welded to the frame. With a BL, they're at roughly the angle of body mounts. I hit them, but they've never given me problems.





FWIW, the X goes right through the floor, welded to frame, and rears are also plated under & tied to frame.



I'm not really sure what my though process was behind putting the effort into the bolt-together plates for 6 points and just cutting the floor for the X. I think it was probably ease of installation since this was my first big (for me) fab project. I like to think it's probably stout enough that it won't matter.

I'm not a welder.

Hip bars are going in when I don't have to drive this thing to work.

Thanks Beat.

Tom


This looks like the cage I built on here. It's good to see ideas floating around.
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Old 02-27-2008, 09:35 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Anyone got any more info on these? Very simple set up, I like it.
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