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Old 05-07-2007, 12:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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4.0 heads on 4.2L

I heard of some guys putting 4.0 heads on a 4.2L is this even possible ? If so what does it really entail, the advantages/disadvantages, cost, difficulty of the install, threads/advice that could lead me in the right direction. I also have an electromotive fuel injection system on the 4.2L would adding the 4.0 head mess up the computer? Also what is the read line of the 4.2? And one more question...(sorry) i got a great deal on a geared/locked explorer 8.8, the problem is the lug pattern doesn't match the front D30. What are my options? Do i just sell the 8.8, find spacers for the d30, or pray for a miricale that i can find a D44 cheap that matches wms to wms? I have 4.88s in the 8.8, and stock in the D30. I plan to run 35s no bigger then 37s. I know that that isn't ideal tire size with a d30, but i am in college after all and that HAS to come first. Thanks for any help in the right direction...
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Old 05-07-2007, 07:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Ok first off about the 4.0 head, yes it is very possible. All you have to really do is plug up the one row of water jackets in the 4.0 head and put some thread sealant on the one head bolt. Here is an article on swapping one out. http://www.geocities.com/035jeep/40L.html I tried to do a search for Tim Weavers write up but the webpage no longer exist. That sucks because that is the build that I followed and it was very detailed. Now for your question about the 8.8 rear, I would either just get the new bolt pattern drilled into the current axle shafts or if that is not possible with those shafts, go and buy a new set of shafts with the correct bolt pattern on it! What lug pattern are you running on your front D30? If it has the stock shafts and whatnot in there it should be running a 5x4.5" bolt pattern for the wheels. The bolt pattern isn't going to be an issue for me since Im going with the super 88 kit which allows you to run either a 5x4.5" or 5x5.5" bolt pattern. You could look into spacers but I would not recommend them. Hope this helps you out and good luck!
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Old 05-07-2007, 10:06 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I've done several of these, they work very well. The Electromotive is a throttle body injection so it is jetted, and may not provide enough fuel for the 4.0 head. I would check with Electromotive.

Tim Weaver's article is archived on Jaffer's site here. As mentioned, it is probably the definitive piece on the subject.

I've bought several heads from Clearwater that have been set up for this. They've done many of them, they come set up properly and warranteed...never had a problem with them.

You will also need to change your exhaust manifold to one designed for a 4.0 head. I've used this one with good success. It is cheap and effective, though you will have to have your exhaust pipe modified to match it.

There are other things that will have to be changed as well...power steering bracket will need to be modified, serpentine will need to be replaced, you'll need a new valve cover, etc.

I don't think the redline is any higher than the 4.2 (at least not appreciably), but the power band is MUCH wider and more useful. It is a night and day difference between the two.
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Old 05-07-2007, 02:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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resqme- I'm in the process of this swap right now on an 84' CJ-8. I went to install the 4.0L exhaust manifold and ran into a clearance issue with the power steering support bracket. Is the a way around this problem? I'm at a stand still now.
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Old 05-07-2007, 02:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The problem is that the D30 in the CJ is 5 on 5.5, but the 8.8 is 5 on 4.5? Thanks for the advice!
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Old 05-07-2007, 03:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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resqme- I'm in the process of this swap right now on an 84' CJ-8. I went to install the 4.0L exhaust manifold and ran into a clearance issue with the power steering support bracket. Is the a way around this problem? I'm at a stand still now.
I used a Clifford intake and had to modify my ps pump bracket pretty extensively and also grind out part of the lower support that bolts to the block because it interfered with the XJ exhaust manifold i used.

Redline remains the same as a stock 4.2 (4500rpm). The longer stroke of the 258 keeps redline lower then the shorter stroked 4.0L, but changeing the head doesnt dictate any of that.

resqme, thanks for the link to Jaffers site. I printed out Tim Weavers article a few years back, but recently went to find his site and it was gone.
One question for you.....you mentioned the serpentine will need to be replaced (with the 4.0 headswap)......why? When i did mine, my 4.2 was already a serp drive, but i dont see any reason to have to change anything.....it's only the head that is swapped. Correct? Or am i missing something
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Old 05-07-2007, 04:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I used a Clifford intake and had to modify my ps pump bracket pretty extensively and also grind out part of the lower support that bolts to the block because it interfered with the XJ exhaust manifold i used.
Could you elaborate on how you modified the bracket? A picture would be even better. TIA.
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Could you elaborate on how you modified the bracket? A picture would be even better. TIA.
Sorry, but our new server setup caused the old URL's on my Jeep tech pages to change.

Here's the new link to my page about this mod ...

http://www.monsterslayer.com/Pages/jeep/PSPump.htm

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Old 05-07-2007, 09:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Wow, Jaffer, right on. Just what I needed. Saves me alot of time and headache...Thanks for your help!
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Old 05-07-2007, 11:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Pfht.....i had to do that all from scratch, never saw a webpage for the bracket modification. Probably the longest part of my swap was trying to figure out what to do with the bracket
It ended up pretty much the same as described on Jaffers site
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Old 05-08-2007, 10:53 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You should be able to get the 5x5.5" bolt pattern drilled in the 8.8 shafts no problem. Also thanks for updating the Tim Weavers article!!! That is a great writeup!

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Originally Posted by hickmanfab. View Post
The problem is that the D30 in the CJ is 5 on 5.5, but the 8.8 is 5 on 4.5? Thanks for the advice!
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You should be able to get the 5x5.5" bolt pattern drilled in the 8.8 shafts no problem. Also thanks for updating the Tim Weavers article!!! That is a great writeup!
I run a 3/4" spacer on my rear 8.8 that also adapts my wheel bolt pattern to match my front 5on5.5". I have done the head swap and recommend it. I dont have any experience with the fuel injection kit that you list, so make sure there are no problems adapting those. Like mentioned, you would have to change your exhaust manifold and I would additionally caution that it is hard to make the intake from a 4.2 head match a 4.0 head. I couldnt do that with my limited abilities. You will likely just have to make sure the fuel injection kit is adaptable to the 4.0 intake that you will most likely have to find.
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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you mentioned the serpentine will need to be replaced (with the 4.0 headswap)......why? When i did mine, my 4.2 was already a serp drive, but i dont see any reason to have to change anything.....it's only the head that is swapped. Correct? Or am i missing something

I suggested it would have to be changed (for a longer one) to accomodate the power steering bracket modification. I had to move mine outboard far enough that the old belt was too short.

Thanks, jaffer, for archiving that thing. Great article.
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I suggested it would have to be changed (for a longer one) to accomodate the power steering bracket modification. I had to move mine outboard far enough that the old belt was too short.
Ahh gotcha. It was a few years back on my swap, and i do remember replaceing the belt, but it was so many projects ago......
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Old 05-10-2007, 09:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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And now for the Electromotive part

The Electromotive Unit will sort of work with the stock intake bolted onto the 4.0 head. I hear that the 4.2 intake will fit the head, but have no first hand experience. You can get an aftermarket intake to fit the head that will work with the JFI throttle body. The problem with the Electromotive setup is the fuel injectors are too small to support the 4.0's fuel requirements. The ones that came with the TBI are 44#/hr injectors. The easiest thing to do would be to switch to a larger injector. But no guarantees as to how well it would run.

Or the other (better) approach you can take is to swap in a 4.0 manifold and TB then adapt the Electromotive ECU to work in a multipoint mode with the Jeep TB and injectors.

To do this you would need to update the PROM in the ECU from the JFI version to the WinTEC compatible version (Version 2.2 IIRC). You would also have to change from MAF to MAP. To do this you will have to install the MAP sensor and add an Intake Air Temp Sensor. The 4.0 Jeep Idle Air Control will work with the Electromotive unit and the Jeep 4.0 Throttle Position Sensor will work too. If you are not running the crankshaft mounted trigger wheel, you will definitely want to switch.

You will also need a laptop to connect to the Electromotive unit for programming. You can download the latest version of the WinTec software off Electromotive's site. Lastly you will have to wire everything up correctly and re-program the system. You are looking at about $200 in parts (MAP, IAT and Prom). I would also suggest downloading the TEC-II owner's manual from the Electromotive site and reading it cover to cover many times. It has wiring diagrams also.

If you do convert to the 4.0 head but keep the throttle body, I can send you a tune that will get you going, so long as you update your prom and switch to the MAP setup. The tune includes warm-up, spark map, fuel map, acceleration enrichments etc. But you will have to fine tune it. If you do it right you should hit around 150hp at the wheels and about 225 lbft of torque. Stock is about 80-90hp at the wheels. You will also retain your CARB exemption as long as they don't study the setup in detail.

Lastly, you could simply steal the wiring, electronics and manifold from an OBD-I HO 4.0. You would have to do some wiring, but no programming is required. If you need to keep a CARB exemption, buy a new or used Mopar EFI setup for the 4.2.

My former JFI is running now as a fully programmable MAP based system. It's on the 4.2, but I don't have the 4.0 head. I have the crank mounted trigger wheel and an in tank fuel pump. I spent a little extra money and tuned it on a chassis dyno for drivability. The 4.2 is going to be rebuilt .060 over with a new cam and a Hesco aluminum head. HP and torque should be around 180hp and 275lbft at the wheels. It will also pass smog and have CARB exemptions for the head and Electromotive unit.

But if smog, CARB exemptions and economy are not an issue, get a V8.

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Old 05-10-2007, 10:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks, jaffer, for archiving that thing. Great article.
I tried to get Lance to archive my articles here on Pirate ...
but the creep wouldn't even reply to my messages.
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Old 05-10-2007, 12:41 PM   #17 (permalink)
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The Electromotive Unit will sort of work with the stock intake bolted onto the 4.0 head. I hear that the 4.2 intake will fit the head, but have no first hand experience. You can get an aftermarket intake to fit the head that will work with the JFI throttle body. The problem with the Electromotive setup is the fuel injectors are too small to support the 4.0's fuel requirements. The ones that came with the TBI are 44#/hr injectors. The easiest thing to do would be to switch to a larger injector. But no guarantees as to how well it would run.

Or the other (better) approach you can take is to swap in a 4.0 manifold and TB then adapt the Electromotive ECU to work in a multipoint mode with the Jeep TB and injectors.

To do this you would need to update the PROM in the ECU from the JFI version to the WinTEC compatible version (Version 2.2 IIRC). You would also have to change from MAF to MAP. To do this you will have to install the MAP sensor and add an Intake Air Temp Sensor. The 4.0 Jeep Idle Air Control will work with the Electromotive unit and the Jeep 4.0 Throttle Position Sensor will work too. If you are not running the crankshaft mounted trigger wheel, you will definitely want to switch.

You will also need a laptop to connect to the Electromotive unit for programming. You can download the latest version of the WinTec software off Electromotive's site. Lastly you will have to wire everything up correctly and re-program the system. You are looking at about $200 in parts (MAP, IAT and Prom). I would also suggest downloading the TEC-II owner's manual from the Electromotive site and reading it cover to cover many times. It has wiring diagrams also.

If you do convert to the 4.0 head but keep the throttle body, I can send you a tune that will get you going, so long as you update your prom and switch to the MAP setup. The tune includes warm-up, spark map, fuel map, acceleration enrichments etc. But you will have to fine tune it. If you do it right you should hit around 150hp at the wheels and about 225 lbft of torque. Stock is about 80-90hp at the wheels. You will also retain your CARB exemption as long as they don't study the setup in detail.

Lastly, you could simply steal the wiring, electronics and manifold from an OBD-I HO 4.0. You would have to do some wiring, but no programming is required. If you need to keep a CARB exemption, buy a new or used Mopar EFI setup for the 4.2.

My former JFI is running now as a fully programmable MAP based system. It's on the 4.2, but I don't have the 4.0 head. I have the crank mounted trigger wheel and an in tank fuel pump. I spent a little extra money and tuned it on a chassis dyno for drivability. The 4.2 is going to be rebuilt .060 over with a new cam and a Hesco aluminum head. HP and torque should be around 180hp and 275lbft at the wheels. It will also pass smog and have CARB exemptions for the head and Electromotive unit.

But if smog, CARB exemptions and economy are not an issue, get a V8.

-Old Army
Hey thanks this is a lot of help. I was having trouble getting the electromotive system to run properly though, I have it all wired up according to the diagram on the electromotive website, but when a lay into (floor it) the engine floods out expecially in third and fourth gear? Its starts sputtering and the RPMs drop significantly, but if i gradually accel it is runs ok. Also it idiols at 1000-1100 RPMs and i don't think that is normal? The only thing that I changed is the MAF to a MAP b/c the MAF was bad. Do i need to reflash the ecu and get a prom and a tune, or what? It almost sounds easier to just stroke the motor...more bang for you buck kinda thing...then doing the 4.0 head swap? I would love to take the old 454 out of the ranch truck out back and drop it in, but...i have to smog the bastard, and my dad is smart enough to not let a college kid have that much power at his disposal in a car that weighs next to nothing!
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Old 05-12-2007, 06:09 AM   #18 (permalink)
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So you switched out the MAF fo a MAP sensor? Did you add the intake air temp sensor? If not, the ECU will not compensate for the difference in air density due to temperature. Besides, the JFI's stock ECU is designed for MAF and has no provision for calculating airflow with anything but a MAF.

So here's what you have to do: Finish the conversion to a MAP setup by adding the IAT sensor. Then switch to the Version 2.1.2 of the WINTEC2 software with the proper PROM update to the ECU (some assembly required).
The software is free and the PROM costs about $50 from any Electromotive dealer.

You will then be able to fully tune the system for whatever 6 cylinder engine you happen to put in the Jeep, so long as the throttle body and injectors can support the fuel requirements. You gain full control of fuel delivery, spark, acceleration enrichments and you can even do such fun things as controlling an electric fan based on engine temp. You can also log engine performance for fine tuning. It will allow on-the-fly tuning for dyno work as well as automatically adjust its own fuel map off real time data or a data log.

Its good stuff but will likely require hours of tinkering to get it just right. To see what WinTEC2 is about, download it and play with it: http://www.electromotive-inc.com/software.html

I assume you have the TECII manual. If not, it's here: http://www.electromotive-inc.com/manuals.html

And yes, a stroker is nice, but you still need a way to run the EFI. If you use the 4.0 computer and wiring, with larger injectors and an adjustable MAP, you will likely need to have a smog referee approve the engine swap, which is much more complicated and in depth than the once over and CARB verification that the smog testing station does.

If you want to see what your engine is doing right now, you will need the compatible calibration software, PAFZ. Its no longer available for download, but I have a copy somewhere. It is a DOS application though. Good Luck.

-Old Army

Last edited by Old Army; 05-12-2007 at 06:23 AM.
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:11 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I was adding power steering to mine and made it to fit both of my motors. The YJ pump set up made it easy.
http://www.terrainstompers.com/forum...opic.php?t=561
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Old 05-13-2007, 10:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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do you use the reg. 4.0l head or the H.O. head? was told to use the H.O. just wanted to understand correctly.

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Old 05-13-2007, 11:48 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Use the HO, I did and I'm very happy with the results.
As to the bracket for the power steering, break out the grinder and the welder and start trying. That part took me days.
If you are doing this work on a CJ, don't use a borla header. I'm not happy with how low the collector hangs below my oil pan. If I were to do this again, I'd choose the banks or stay stock YJ.



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