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Old 04-02-2012, 02:20 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sillyneck View Post
pushrod length issue more than likely. I played with a few combos with my yj booster, cj pedal, and 2500 master. 1/8 of an inch made all the different. a 1/16 will make mine perfect.
Sillyneck, what calipers are you running exactly? I have a CJ with a YJ single diaphragm booster and 1/2-3/4 ton calipers all the way around. I have the stock master cylinder that came with the booster, and my brakes aren't great. I can't manage to gut my prop valve, so I'm cutting it out completely. I'm hoping that will help, but am trying to determine what MC to get if/when they still need work.
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:43 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Did the swap in the XJ. 2500 RAM m/c into '98 XJ.

Packaging is tight. Honestly it looks like my hood won't close, but I think it will, just with very little room to spare. The stock lines do indeed bolt up, but you do have to bend and tweak them a little to line them up. You can't really reuse the prop/combo valve bracket, the new master is too big.

Stock lines are M10 and M12. Uses a bubble flare on the m/c side and double flare to the prop valve. Sort of annoying, so I'm glad it just bolts up.

I tried using the old pushrod, but either it's plain too short or I didn't thread it out enough, I have about 2" of pedal movement before I feel it hit. Knowing that might happen I grabbed a 1/4"x3" fine thread bolt, nicked the head off, but it's still a little too long for it to bolt up.

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Old 08-21-2012, 11:33 AM   #103 (permalink)
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Querry for myself here.

94 YJ booster & Stock Prop Valve.

Front waggy 44 with 75 chevy knuckles backing plates and brakes.

Rear XJ 44 with the terra flex disc brake kit.

Good pads, stops ok, pedal travel is too much, will not lock up the brakes

Want to upgrade the MC...

E350?
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:45 PM   #104 (permalink)
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I'll be trying the dodge 2500 mc on a Jk soon. I put a 60 up front and a 10.5 sterling in the rear. The factory mc works, just not all that great.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:03 PM   #105 (permalink)
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bringing an old thread back up.. i see alot of 1/2-3/4 ton caliper setups and the ram 2500 MC on here.. mine is similar but not quite the same. i have a waggy front that a swapped 77-79 F150 knuckles onto so obviously i have the 77-79 F150 single piston calipers. and then in the rear I'm doing the 3/4 ton Chevy caliper everyone uses. any reason to not do the 2500 ram MC on my YJ with the stock booster? another question also. instead of gutting the prop valve i may just remove it all together. are these brakes street friendly with the prop valve gutted or deleted? or is this a trail only setup?
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:32 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Regarding the booster, once you gut it, just think of it a a good factory looking t-fitting, no reason to remove unless you want to.

I would recommend first doing the rear 3/4 ton disc swap and see if you actually need to change the stock MC, I think if you are keeping singles all around, gut the stock prop, and run a manual adjustable for the rear you may be golden.

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Old 10-05-2012, 10:06 PM   #107 (permalink)
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cool i'll give that a shot and see whats up.. if it need a little more i'll try the ram MC. thank geberhard
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:15 PM   #108 (permalink)
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I got a RAM 2500 MC from O'reilys. It came with solid plugs for bench bleeding. I put it in a vice and filled with fluid. Then used a large screwdriver and slowly pushed the piston until no more bubbles came up in the fluid. Here's the problem, I could still push the piston all the way to end. There's more resistance but I can bottom it out. I didn't think this was correct, so I returned it and got another MC. Repeated the process and the second one does the same thing. These are new MC's not rebuilt. Is this normal? I thought the piston should get firm and not move more than an inch or so once the air is bled out.

Anyone else have this same experience? Should I take the second one back?

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Old 10-08-2012, 03:55 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Scott in my opinion and if you can, bleed it on your rig rather than on a bench. It will also help adjust and figure out your pushrod length.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:29 AM   #110 (permalink)
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One simple question on this subject that I must have missed in the posts. Will the 2000 RAM 2500 MC seal a 1995 YJ dual diaphram booster? I have a 1993 YJ booster with a Mercury Marquis MC with Ford dual piston calipers front and single GM 3/4 ton rears currently. Works OK but I would like to lock 42s on near verticle decents.
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:03 AM   #111 (permalink)
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One simple question on this subject that I must have missed in the posts. Will the 2000 RAM 2500 MC seal a 1995 YJ dual diaphram booster? I have a 1993 YJ booster with a Mercury Marquis MC with Ford dual piston calipers front and single GM 3/4 ton rears currently. Works OK but I would like to lock 42s on near verticle decents.
Yes it will. I'm running the 95 booster and a 2500 MC. Works great with some adjustment of the pushrod lenght to tune it in.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:15 PM   #112 (permalink)
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Well just as a follow up. I never got the MC firm on the bench. But I did go ahead and install the MC after making a new plunger. I'm driving the jeep now and after bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, the brakes are great. Pedal feels good and I can lock up 39 red labels if I need to.

So much for the theory of solid pedal when bench bleeding.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:00 PM   #113 (permalink)
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Well just as a follow up. I never got the MC firm on the bench. But I did go ahead and install the MC after making a new plunger. I'm driving the jeep now and after bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, the brakes are great. Pedal feels good and I can lock up 39 red labels if I need to.

So much for the theory of solid pedal when bench bleeding.
I don't know how it would ever feel "solid" while bench bleeding. In that situation, the hydraulic pressure isn't pushing against pistons in a closed system, it's just bleeding out. Yes, it will firm up once all of the air is expelled, but it won't be impossible to push the piston in.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:15 AM   #114 (permalink)
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I was going to replace the stock MC with the RAM 2500 MC, but in the end I removed the stock proportioning valve and piped the front brakes straight off the MC and the rear w/ an adjustable proportioning valve. It works great, I can lock up all four tires. This idea came from Hurley and I believe it is easier to setup then changing the whole MC.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:32 AM   #115 (permalink)
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I was going to replace the stock MC with the RAM 2500 MC, but in the end I removed the stock proportioning valve and piped the front brakes straight off the MC and the rear w/ an adjustable proportioning valve. It works great, I can lock up all four tires. This idea came from Hurley and I believe it is easier to setup then changing the whole MC.
So you took out the prop valve and ran a hardline straight from the MC to the front brakes and a adj prop valve for the rear?? Are you runnin tons or 3/4 tons? Not a bad idea if it works.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:37 AM   #116 (permalink)
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So you took out the prop valve and ran a hardline straight from the MC to the front brakes and a adj prop valve for the rear?? Are you runnin tons or 3/4 tons? Not a bad idea if it works.
Running tons w/ duel piston calipers on each end. Very simple to do, I ordered up a 3/8" inverted Tee to plumb the front brakes straight from the MC, and then an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear.

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Old 01-04-2013, 06:07 PM   #117 (permalink)
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Running tons w/ duel piston calipers on each end. Very simple to do, I ordered up a 3/8" inverted Tee to plumb the front brakes straight from the MC, and then an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear.
Sweet, sounds a lot easier then putting in a new M/C. I'm gonna try your idea. Thanks
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:59 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Old Thread Bump

I read this entire thread! I am still on D44's front and rear! Only on 35's, but have next to zero stopping ability unless I put it into nuetral. New pads, fluidd etc, Everything looks great. Someone mentioned the new 2500mc would be to much for smaller axles. I want to confirm if some of you don't mind seeing an old thread jump back up. Should I do this MC2500 upgrade?
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:03 AM   #119 (permalink)
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I was going to replace the stock MC with the RAM 2500 MC, but in the end I removed the stock proportioning valve and piped the front brakes straight off the MC and the rear w/ an adjustable proportioning valve. It works great, I can lock up all four tires. This idea came from Hurley and I believe it is easier to setup then changing the whole MC.
I just did what Jeepman did and it works. I can lock up all four tires no problem. I had to redo my hard lines up front, but no biggie; I got all new hard lines from Autozone for $35. I got an adjustable prop valve from summit for $40 and it's done. Didn't even have to mess with the stock M/C.. I'm sure the 2500 M/C works, but this way works too.

I'm on tons and 37's, disks all the way around. You decide what way works best for you.
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Old 01-29-2013, 11:06 AM   #120 (permalink)
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Does anyone know the thread pitch for the master cylinder fittings? I'd like to plumb in a fitting to convert over to -3an.
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:07 AM   #121 (permalink)
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Does anyone know the thread pitch for the master cylinder fittings? I'd like to plumb in a fitting to convert over to -3an.
Such as M10x1 and M12x1? Those are the stock lines that thread into the new Dodge MC.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:32 AM   #122 (permalink)
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Does anyone know the thread pitch for the master cylinder fittings? I'd like to plumb in a fitting to convert over to -3an.
same thing i'm doing. saves a whole lot of time bending hard lines!
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:39 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Do you think this setup will work?
I have a Jeep TJ with a 99-2001 Dodge 2500 master cylinder installed, will be installing a rear 2003 GM AAM 10.5 FF 14 bolt with the factory dual piston calipers, the front will be a 1979 Ford D60 Kingpin with the factory dual piston calipers. (Picked up both axles for $500 )
If I was to change the front to the chevy single piston calipers then the rear would have more braking power. I would really like to use the matching 2003 factory gm front dual piston calipers if there was a conversion bracket for this.
Thoughts, suggestions??
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:40 PM   #124 (permalink)
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Such as M10x1 and M12x1? Those are the stock lines that thread into the new Dodge MC.
Yes. I am going to convert it directly to -3an and forget flaring tube.

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same thing i'm doing. saves a whole lot of time bending hard lines!

I hate hard line with a passion because I suck at it.
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:53 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Do you think this setup will work?
I have a Jeep TJ with a 99-2001 Dodge 2500 master cylinder installed, will be installing a rear 2003 GM AAM 10.5 FF 14 bolt with the factory dual piston calipers, the front will be a 1979 Ford D60 Kingpin with the factory dual piston calipers. (Picked up both axles for $500 )
If I was to change the front to the chevy single piston calipers then the rear would have more braking power. I would really like to use the matching 2003 factory gm front dual piston calipers if there was a conversion bracket for this.
Thoughts, suggestions??


I would gut the stock prop valve and use an adjustable for teh rear. Since you alreday have the fornt with dual pistons, why not run them?

Gui
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