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Old 06-15-2016, 08:05 PM  
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If its an original single diaphragm booster from my 1989 YJ and thus 27 years old...Wouldn't a 1995 remaned dual diaphragm booster be a good upgrade with the 99-01' dodge ram 2500 mc? A 99-01' dodge ram 2500 mc work on a YJ 87-94' single diaphragm booster, YJ dual diaphragm booster, or TJ dual diaphragm booster? Different brake line ends needed between the mid 70s lincoln marquise compared to the ram mc?
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:35 PM  
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I wish I knew about the adapters that screw into the master, and then to the stock lines. Oh well.

I ended up having new lines made.
The only issues I had were a spacing issue. I could drive it for indiscriminate amounts of time, but eventually the front brakes would lock up on their own.

The fix ended up being to put 2 washers on each stud of the booster before putting the MC back on. Did the On off on off several times after adjusting the push rod in the booster, and thinking maybe the proportioning valve was bad also.

Nope, just needed a little space is all.
Works great now, and has been flawless.
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Old 06-16-2016, 10:22 AM  
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Thanks for responses and this thread, very helpful!

It would be nice to have great brakes at a trifty price after spending the $ to put 1 ton axles with 4 wheel discs under your YJ/TJ, even CJ!

I'm not too happy with my braking currently and either will get a remaned single booster to replace my original 1989 oem booster, get a 95' dual diaphram booster and Ram 2500 MC...or just pay the $370 and get a Navajo dual diaphram booster and big MC with bracket to bolt on my YJ which many claim is the best brakes...outside of hydro boosting the brakes...that's another option is to hydro boost as the single YJ booster has the vacuum line attached to it....besides the old 27 year booster I have is there a vacuum/vacuum pump that is very crutial for good braking?

http://www.offagain4x4.com/navajo_brakes.html

Last edited by bigredjeep1; 06-16-2016 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:00 PM  
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I am running a CJ pedal, dodge MC, and YJ booster with no issue. I did have to grind the MC to mate to the booster and adjust the 1/4" bolt on the booster but very easy mods. The prop valve is from Summit, something "xxxx detailing". I forgot the exact model but it was designed for hotrods with a disc rear upgrade. I also put a line lock on the rear line for front digs. Very happy with the pedal, stopping power, etc. Would do it again without question.

78 ford 60 front, and 14b rear with stock disc.
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Old 06-16-2016, 08:00 PM  
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Well shit, I guess I was holding the I pad upside down. Sorry.
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Get a sitter and take her somewhere nice. Obviously "nice" is reliant on budget, as my nice might be crawfish and draft shiner at a dive bar followed by rough backseat sex parked behind Gander Mountain- whereas your nice will probably differ from that.
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Old 06-20-2016, 05:36 PM  
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Well shit, I guess I was holding the I pad upside down. Sorry.
LOL. Typing with your beer googles on, I see.

I am about to get started on procuring parts for my brake setup. Looks like this thread has all the info I need.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:20 AM  
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LOL. Typing with your beer googles on, I see.

I am about to get started on procuring parts for my brake setup. Looks like this thread has all the info I need.
Yep, that and my 6 year old knows more about my IPad then I do.
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Get a sitter and take her somewhere nice. Obviously "nice" is reliant on budget, as my nice might be crawfish and draft shiner at a dive bar followed by rough backseat sex parked behind Gander Mountain- whereas your nice will probably differ from that.
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Old 06-24-2016, 07:41 AM  
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Originally Posted by bigredjeep1 View Post
If its an original single diaphragm booster from my 1989 YJ and thus 27 years old...Wouldn't a 1995 remaned dual diaphragm booster be a good upgrade with the 99-01' dodge ram 2500 mc? A 99-01' dodge ram 2500 mc work on a YJ 87-94' single diaphragm booster, YJ dual diaphragm booster, or TJ dual diaphragm booster? Different brake line ends needed between the mid 70s lincoln marquise compared to the ram mc?
Not that the new booster isn't an upgrade. Just saying it's not needed if you were trying to keep on budget. You could always change that later.

Here's a pic of what I came up with for adapting the lines to the dodge mc on my 87 YJ. This adapted the fittings and moved them to the other side to meet the original lines.

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Old 10-24-2016, 08:59 PM  
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I have a 1991 jeep YJ that has the stock 4.0 liter motor, PSC full Hydraulic steering, along with dana 60 in the front as well as a dana 60 in the rear with willwood brakes in the rear and normal disk brakes up front. I'm running 42'' tires and did the 1999 dodge ram 2500 master cylinder upgrade with no noticeable results. i can stand on the pedal and it still wants to go and coming to a complete stop is nearly impossible. When i went to instal the dodge ram master cylinder onto the stock YJ booster i ended up screwing in the push rod all the way in and when i went to bolt it down i had to push against the rod with about an 1/8 gap before the back of the master cylinder made contact with the booster. so i put the nuts on and pulled it in with the nuts till it was flush then i bled the brakes. did i do something wrong here i am completely lost on what to do next because everyone else had great success and mine wasn't any different than stock. also my proportioning valve has not been gutted yet.
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Old 10-25-2016, 01:17 PM  
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SO your running 4 wheel disc brakes with a proportioning valve designed for front disc, rear drum and your asking why your brakes are not working right?

Remove the proportioning valve or gut it and retest.
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Old 10-25-2016, 01:24 PM  
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Here is some pictures of mine, 2500 MC with a 87 single diaphragm booster. I have yet to bench bleed the system or adjust the push rod.




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Old 10-25-2016, 08:34 PM  
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SO your running 4 wheel disc brakes with a proportioning valve designed for front disc, rear drum and your asking why your brakes are not working right?

Remove the proportioning valve or gut it and retest.
Now that you said that, it all makes so much more sense. its the stock proportioning valve. i didn't even think about the rear drums. i appreciate that ill try it tomorrow.
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Old 10-26-2016, 12:47 AM  
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Guys I'm ugrading my Rubicon LJ to 1 tons and disc brakes on the rear... can I keep the stock rubicon TJ prop. valve or should I upgrade that too? If yes... which one?

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Old 10-26-2016, 11:03 AM  
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Not sure on the LJ since it is already 4 wheel disc. My focus would be on the MC volume vers the proportioning valve .
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:34 PM  
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I just ran a new brake system 89 yj using this ram master.
I am having the issues some people on here are having. With the engine off the petal is as hard as a rock. With the engine on the petal almost hits the floor. I can feel that the brakes are working for the first few inches, just not much going on.
The last inch or so sport car brakes kick in and the rears lock up. The brakes are very soft like you would feel in some new cars even when the rears lock at the bottom of the stroke. The entire brake system is new and I am running 3/4 Gm calipers front and rear. The fronts are the 3in pistons and the rear are the 2.75in pistons.
The push rod is just touching the master when it is bolted down. (2ish turns out)
I have bled the crap out of it and there are no bubbles. I have bled the master on and off the vehicle.
I am running T's front and rear (no portioning valve)

I thought the front and rear braking systems were Separate but If I add a proportioning valve to the rear brakes will it send more pressure to the front, stiffening the petal?
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Old 12-22-2016, 06:13 AM  
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What MC are you using? What bore?

3" and 2.75" caliper bores are big. Might need bigger bore MC for the volume.
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Old 12-22-2016, 03:51 PM  
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An adjustable prop valve may not solve current issue but I think its going to be needed (I try to adjust prop valve in a panic stop on dry pavement & loose surface to find a happy medium rear lockup). Three 4xs I've tried with valves wide open or gutted got to much rear brake bias.

Can you exchange master out to rule out current one as defective
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Old 12-22-2016, 10:41 PM  
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I will try a new MC tomorrow, the current is a dodge 2500 as the thread is talking about.
A adjustable valve in the rear is in the works, but I wanted to square away the brake system first then add the extras (electric line lock too)
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Old 01-05-2017, 05:57 PM  
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Originally Posted by Dookey View Post
Brake Line Adapter-Bubble Flare-M10-1.0 x 3/16 In. x M12-1.0

The M12 to -3an fitting is simple to find. This converts both front and rear port to M12-1.0 so you can use the same fittings front and rear to convert to -3an.
I purchased this Dorman adapter, part # 788-522, and the female threads on it are not threaded the same as the M10 x 1.0 port on the master cylinder. I verified this by checking it with my M10 x 1.0 fittings, and the port on the master cylinder threads perfectly, but the threads on this fitting will not work. I tried a few other fittings in it to see what it actually is and the best I can tell it's actually 3/8"-24. Anyone else have this issue? I bought 2 of the Dorman adapters and both of them have the same issue.

Update: I purchased another adapter from AutoZone, AGS Part # BLF-36C, which was threaded correctly to accept a male M10x1.0 fitting. If anyone needs a male M12x1.0 to female M10x1.0 adapter, I would recommend getting this one and not the Dorman one. It was around $3.49 plus tax. My only complaint is that they could have made the female threaded side run a bit deeper into the adapter, but there is enough thread engagement to get the fitting tight, so I'm not too worried about it.



I just found this page that helps explain what I figured out tonight through trial and error. It looks like Dorman just drilled/tapped their 788-522 adapter for 3/8"-24 and called it an M10x1.0 adapter, but forgot it won't work this way. Apparently 3/8"-24 male threads will work in M10x1.0 female threads, but M10x1.0 male threads will not work in 3/8"-24 female threads. Anyway, hope this helps someone else down the line.

http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/ou...or-Brake-Lines

Also found the adapter from the Hose and Fittings Etc. website that should work for this application as well. Part # is BQ43. I currently have an inquiry with them for a quote. If it's cheap enough I'll probably order a couple just out of curiosity.

http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/pr...emale-adapters

Last edited by DZ Fab; 01-05-2017 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:47 AM  
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Hoping to make this upgrade in the next few months on my 2004 TJ running tons/40's and a HEMI. I also am going to convert all to -3AN and install cutting brakes hopefully.


When doing some research on the MC, some of the details i have found:

Cardone part #
1322867 fits 98-01, 1500,2500,3500.
132919 fits 01-02 2500,3500.
132928 fits 03-2010, 1500,2500,3500.

From what i can tell, it should not have any relevance that it fits 1500 also. Its just bore volume. The one thing though that did jump out is it is the gas listing with vacume boost or the diesel or hd as they have hydra boost system, thats what comes only on 2500-3500, non vacuum systems....


What are people using for their applications????
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:44 AM  
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Originally Posted by jimmih View Post
Hoping to make this upgrade in the next few months on my 2004 TJ running tons/40's and a HEMI. I also am going to convert all to -3AN and install cutting brakes hopefully.


When doing some research on the MC, some of the details i have found:

Cardone part #
1322867 fits 98-01, 1500,2500,3500.
132919 fits 01-02 2500,3500.
132928 fits 03-2010, 1500,2500,3500.

From what i can tell, it should not have any relevance that it fits 1500 also. Its just bore volume. The one thing though that did jump out is it is the gas listing with vacume boost or the diesel or hd as they have hydra boost system, thats what comes only on 2500-3500, non vacuum systems....


What are people using for their applications????
I used Dorman part # M390426 to order mine.
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Old 01-10-2017, 08:55 AM  
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perfect thanks
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Old 05-28-2017, 08:52 AM  
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Came across this thread last week and anxious to get my Ram MC installed after the holiday weekend. I had to make a new brake line but other than that, seems straight forward. Good info!

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Old 06-06-2017, 03:06 PM  
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Very clean setup! I am considering doing this on the JK, so will take some measurements and post up. It loks like the ears on the JK are further apart but could possibly be modified. I have been hearing mixed stuff about bypassing the JK ABS crap could create some havoc, so need to check what I am going to get myself into.

I am running the same setup as in my previous rigs 79 Ford dual piston and 14 bolt with single piston chevy front. The brakes are ah ok, but I miss the hard pedal. I am being able to do hard lockups, but heck pedal to the floor kung fu mode is not ideal
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Old 06-15-2017, 11:08 AM  
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Originally Posted by Jeepman14wheel View Post
I was going to replace the stock MC with the RAM 2500 MC, but in the end I removed the stock proportioning valve and piped the front brakes straight off the MC and the rear w/ an adjustable proportioning valve. It works great, I can lock up all four tires. This idea came from Hurley and I believe it is easier to setup then changing the whole MC.
Anybody else do this method? Seems way easier than changing a master cylinder and cheaper. Changed master on an old rig and it needed so much adjustment that it was a thorn on my side. I feel Im gonna give this one a go and hopefully haven't confused myself as I am sure it will be easier once I actually have everything and am looking at the jeep lol
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Last edited by offroadman83; 06-15-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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