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Old 05-14-2008, 11:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Curries,Atlas,rollcage and now Coilovers.

Have been building this Jeep up over a short time now.
I thought you guys might be interested in how and what we do over here. Its not a rockcrawler its more for winch style events.
This is early days. 5.5 RE LA on 35's


Then I did this (pasted from the Aussie forum)
All systems go today. After months and months of planning and collating parts and scheduling, finally the spanners turned and the transformation begun in earnest.
The parts going in are: (in brief)

· Rear: Currie 9inch High pinion Locked and loaded, Disk brakes and CTM’s.
· Front: Currie 9 inch Locked and loaded, CTM’s
· Both diffs have had the housings shaved for extra clearance and axle tubes have been strengthened.
· Pro Comp MX6 Adjustable Remote reservoir shocks
· Atlas II Transfer case
· Drive shaft mounted disk brake rotar
· Alloy Champion beadlocks
· 38 Swampers





First step was to remove the rear D44

Second step put in the Currie in place.


Big ass yoke


Big ass disk brakes. Explorer 8.8”


Rear Currie all mounted up. The remote canister will be mounted on top of the chassis rail.
[IMG][url]http://www.aussiejeepimages.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=97572[/IMG]

Next was out with the front diff. These little D30’s are a heavy little sucker.


Front shocks mounted up.

Last edited by Mr Extreme Jeep; 01-12-2009 at 05:19 AM.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Front pinion flange.


Front Currie all mounted up.


After the long cold day turned into night this is how I left her until tomorrow.




Everything went real well. But before I count my chickens there is a still heap to do. Front brakes, both sets brake lines and the pitman arm needs a bit of convincing to receive its GQ counterpart. Once all that is done it will get its new shoes chucked on and put on the ground to check all clearances. Need also to remove the rear stock upper control arm brackets cause its binding with the control arm and fit up the shock canisters onto the rails also.
Then the bash plate comes off and the T-case goes in. Apparently the linkages can be a bit tricky so we will see what happens there.
Got to get some shut eye now to get up and do it all over again tomorrow.

Good times…:smile:

The tank needed to be temporarily dropped so the canister could be fed through and up over the rail. It seems to fit nicely up along there thanks to the 1.5 " body lift.

This is how it finished up


After that I put a Highmount winch on and did a comp and wheeled it a bit.


After the comp it became obvious I needed more light power because of the night stages. I also needed snorkle and I wanted more uptravel in the front 10 inch shocks so I did the gaurd lift/bonnet chop mod to fit the 38's comfortably. http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...ad.php?t=73820

It was also very clear that the factory cage was no longer going to cut it as far as comps go. Fairly stringent rules need to be adhered to for comp cages and I wanted the cross brace to be removable. This was a huge challenge. So many ways to go about it. I also wanted to use the factory seat belts in the rear so there were two sets of rear stays made. The striaght ones are for comp regs and the bent ones are for the street law traffic authority.
http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...t=74626&page=8


Last edited by Mr Extreme Jeep; 05-14-2008 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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As the cage was being built I wanted to make up a light bar. I came a ccross a roof rack (if anyone knows what brand it is that would be good. So many people have asked me and no one down here knows). Anyway I rearranged all the lights and made brackets to mount the roof rack/light bar front stays and mirror relocation brackets with windscreen light tabs also.


I also mouted a grill / winch gaurd so I can hake some decent winch rope horns for comps.



So whats planned next?
Another battery and alternator.
Stretch the chassis to an unlimited size.
Then coil overs although I am very happy with the current ride and flex. I think its a must do. Four link set up also. Hopefully in another 12 months or so. This is my daily driver so things get done slowly. Not only that but there are a few stretched chassis TJ been built at the moment. I will be seeing how they perform before jumping into making any decisions about how to best set up mine. Hopefully i can get a drive in all of them and go from there.

Thanks guys.
Enjoy your forum
Happy to receive any advise and comments.
Cheers
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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looks good. nice work so far
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:31 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Extreme Jeep View Post

The parts going in are: (in brief)

· Rear: Currie 9inch High pinion Locked and loaded, Disk brakes and CTM’s.
· Front: Currie 9 inch Locked and loaded, CTM’s

Hey Mr Extreme Jeep

Looks like you are getting into things now! Who's doing the work for you down there?

Anyway are you sure your have the order of this correct as I imagine that your rear currie is a LP and the Front is the HP? Did Jack at CTM do the axles for you? Are you setting up for Winch challenges or Tuff Truck either way you should come up for the Snowy Challenge as I know Nick is bring up Black Betty!?
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Old 05-19-2008, 05:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hey McZook.
Andrew Dyer from Yellingbo is doing the work.
You are correct in your correction.
Front HP rear is LP. My bad...
That was typed ages ago too and nobody picked it up.
Winch challenges are more my style for the moment.
But I can see her evolving into something else eventually.
Black Betty is a a great rig. Never seen her in action.
She came along to the Muster in 07 but steering problem forsed her back onto a trailor for the weekend unfortunately. Certainly a peoples favourite that one.
Once mine is complete and I get to wheel the snot out of it
I guess I will be looking to race her in higher speed stuff like the Alpine and mayb even the outback. Cources are getting pretty tight on the winch circuit. Horsepower is good but it aint the be all and end all. TJ's are alot lighter than most of the field. Until the stretch comes the horsepower will stay as is.
Cheers.
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Here are some updates of the cage.
Got it pretty much finished last night.
Front spreader tacked in place. Front seatbelt holes marked and soft top bracket position marked aswell. For a factory fit. Harness Taxi bars welded inplace. Got the dash back in the car too for a final fit.
Took it out for easy access to finish up all the welding and cleaning up. Hope to have it painted and back in the car by the end of the long weekend. Finished the Roof rack rear mounts also. Overall we managed to lower it about 3 to 4 inches lower than the maker intended it. Thanks to Ari for your help last night.


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Old 06-04-2008, 05:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Cage looks good. Maybe I missed it, but where did you get the tube inserts for it? I'm talking about the smaller ones you welded in.
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Old 06-04-2008, 11:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey GTXRACER the crush sleeves (spuds) you are reffering too we made. Just got solid rod and cut into sections and drilled them out on the lathe for a prefect fit. The seatbelt ones with threads in them were cut out of an old cage and cleaned up to be reused. I think there will be about 30 spuds in it when its finished.
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Old 06-11-2008, 08:12 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Cage stage is all but done. Some reassembling to do and time to hit the trails.





Next will be some electical upgrades and will begin planning for the wheelbase stretch.
At this stage looking at bringing in a couple of unlimited sides from the states and do a cut and shut on the chassis.
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Old 06-15-2008, 04:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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All done.:smile:
Final day of reassemble went smooth. It was yesterday.
First the dash was finished with flexy pipe to still have all vents working.
All the bolts were tightened for the last time.
Wiring for the roof console was a bit of a mess so that took a bit of time.
Bead locks were all tightened and tyres aired up and fitted.
Dash went in then windscreen came up and mirror,light tab, light bar brackets fitted. Steering wheel, seats then carpet and finally soft top.
I could not have done it without Andrew ofcoarse so thanks mate. And a special thanks goes out to Frank and Ari for comin out to lend a hand. Very much appreciated you too Oskar! I also must thank Kim. (You know who you are) thanks for your patience.:wink: I think it was all worth it.:lol:
ANy way I gotta say apart from looking sh*t hot it fits like a glove. Only drama we had was caused by the Soft top being stored in a tight roll in a cold garage for a really long time. It went on eventually and will loosen up when it sees a bit of sun.
Heres the finished product......

Shows the very slight visibilty of the front spreader


Again front spreader nice and tight.


Grab handles and trimmed plastic surround for the factory look.:smile:


This is why we didnt triangulate the front 1/2 of the cage. Didnt want to relocate all the switches and love the look.


Rear seat belt in factory position.


Soft top bracket in factory position also.


Crossbrace bracket and taxi bar.
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Old 06-15-2008, 11:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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you might want to talk to them....seems when they put your dash back together they put the steering wheel on the wrong side.




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Old 06-15-2008, 04:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Looking Neat, nicely done !
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:29 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Time for an update I guess.
The law caught up with me and told me to take my Jeep off the road until I can present it in a roadworthy manner. Nothing too serious.The usual I guess. Tyres, too many lights, wrong type of switches in the roof console, no roll cage padding so I pulled a few favours and got myself out of that mess.
I have bought myself a pair of 12 inch Kings coilovers and 2 1/2 inch kings hydro bump stops. Superior chromo axles, diff rebuild kit and the fun began. So we fired up the plasma cutter.
Front set up is first. Am going for a 50/50 travel split. Cut off all the bracketry except the control arm brackets, cleaned up the chassis sat the car up at ride height and calculated what need to be done to get the 6 inches of uptravel. Panhard rod bracket had to come off the chassis a new one will be fabbed up in its place. Going to extend the upper control arms a few inches this was to help with the pinion angle and to keep the coilover as vertical as possible through its travelling plane. The diff breather nipple broke off as it struck the sump. Once that was out the way the diff itself struck the sump at the top of the 6 inch travel. Relocate the breather hole is no issue and a motor mount lift is going in to provide a bit of insurance against any impact. The control arms are about 15mm shy of the chassis on max travel I am considering lowering the bottom (long) control arm maybe an inch to counter this problem. The exhaust might need a tweak too but all in all it seems to clear well. Will have pics soon as it gets interesting.
Cheers
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Old 11-21-2008, 07:59 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Very nice work, looking forward to the new mods. Did you also get busted for your steering wheel being on the wrong side? Sorry, couldn't resist.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:11 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Wait... you got in trouble for the wrong switches in the roof console??

Sweet build by the way.
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Old 11-21-2008, 01:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mr Extreme Jeep View Post
Time for an update I guess.
The law caught up with me and told me to take my Jeep off the road until I can present it in a roadworthy manner. Nothing too serious.The usual I guess. Tyres, too many lights, wrong type of switches in the roof console, no roll cage padding so I pulled a few favours and got myself out of that mess.
I have bought myself a pair of 12 inch Kings coilovers and 2 1/2 inch kings hydro bump stops. Superior chromo axles, diff rebuild kit and the fun began. So we fired up the plasma cutter.
Front set up is first. Am going for a 50/50 travel split. Cut off all the bracketry except the control arm brackets, cleaned up the chassis sat the car up at ride height and calculated what need to be done to get the 6 inches of uptravel. Panhard rod bracket had to come off the chassis a new one will be fabbed up in its place. Going to extend the upper control arms a few inches this was to help with the pinion angle and to keep the coilover as vertical as possible through its travelling plane. The diff breather nipple broke off as it struck the sump. Once that was out the way the diff itself struck the sump at the top of the 6 inch travel. Relocate the breather hole is no issue and a motor mount lift is going in to provide a bit of insurance against any impact. The control arms are about 15mm shy of the chassis on max travel I am considering lowering the bottom (long) control arm maybe an inch to counter this problem. The exhaust might need a tweak too but all in all it seems to clear well. Will have pics soon as it gets interesting.
Cheers
Wow the cops around your way must be harsh. I drive me jeep around sometimes with no windshield, doors,mirrors or exhuast, comp cut on 40's sitting next to cops at stop lights and I have never once even been hasseled!
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Old 11-21-2008, 03:14 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Very nice work, looking forward to the new mods. Did you also get busted for your steering wheel being on the wrong side? Sorry, couldn't resist.
Ha Ha Ha .You wouldnt be the first.

Quote:
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Wait... you got in trouble for the wrong switches in the roof console??
Sweet build by the way.
He said that the toggle switches are for centre floor consoles and cant be within a certain distance from drivers head. I need rocker switches like the Lokka ones pictures above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeeper8650 View Post
Wow the cops around your way must be harsh. I drive me jeep around sometimes with no windshield, doors,mirrors or exhuast, comp cut on 40's sitting next to cops at stop lights and I have never once even been hasseled!
He was an old guy and was in a mood. SO I just shutup cause I was worried he would make go for a full inspection. I can do no doors but windscreen and mirrors must be up and on. I had to extend the exhuast by 2 inches to make them happy. I have beadlocks and he didnt know what they were. I wanna move to your neck of the woods. That would be a dream. Down here they wait at the bottom of tracks almost. Looking for people that have torn off mudflaps and broken lights etc. Its a pain...

Thanks for the comments.
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Old 11-26-2008, 02:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Managed to get some work done on the Tj.
Installed a Currie 1inch motor mount lift.
This cleared some room for the diff pumpkin hitting the sump.
Also cleard a bit more room for the control arms against the exhaust.
Only problem was the air box is touching the bonnet. So a bit of panel beating
was needed. Its a tight fit and I may need to cut the reinforcing off the inside of the bonnet to completely clear it properly.
Started fabbing the hoops and tac welded them in place for a trial fit justto check clearances. Initially worried the bump stop would hit the shock on max down travel but that was fine. the antirock needs a bit more room so we will tweek a little here and there and get it all right I am sure. The hoops will be trussed and a crossbrace will be made connecting the top of them together. One thing I am really looking forward too (NOT) is the left hand side where all the electrics are. The hoops come through the gaurd into the engine bay, and although I have done a 3 inch gaurd lift there is going to be some choice words during this process thats for sure. Oh well.
Control arms are well clear of the chassis and we still have afull 6inches of uptravel so all in all I am pleased with the progress.
Sorry its a bit fuzzy.

The top section of the control arm mount is going to be boxed in as a bump stop platform.


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Old 12-05-2008, 03:38 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Not much fabbing been done. Pulled apart the axle unis.Ordered a set of ctm rebuild kits. Also ordered a pair of longfields to use in the spare axles Will try them out.
Rebuilding the rear drive shaft flange cardinal . Centre ball shat itself. Tryin gto figure out a way to add some trussing to the front diff. Not alot of room to go ontop of the diff so may need to go infront of the top dead centre cuase the panhard rod (trackbar) is pretty close to the front of the diff. So much so that the housing has been panel beated slightly to allow for clearance.
Cheers
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Old 12-16-2008, 03:15 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Not much fabbing been done. Pulled apart the axle unis.Ordered a set of ctm rebuild kits. Also ordered a pair of longfields to use in the spare axles Will try them out.
Rebuilding the rear drive shaft flange cardinal . Centre ball shat itself. Tryin gto figure out a way to add some trussing to the front diff. Not alot of room to go ontop of the diff so may need to go infront of the top dead centre cuase the panhard rod (trackbar) is pretty close to the front of the diff. So much so that the housing has been panel beated slightly to allow for clearance.
Cheers
what a gay jeep
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Old 12-22-2008, 03:07 AM   #22 (permalink)
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For your second post ever I would have thought you would have more to say than that. Would you care to elaborate. Be more specific. I noticed your only other post on this forum is on another potentialy rediculous thread. So try to redeme yourself with typing something clever or just fuk off tool.
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:38 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Work on the TJ stopped for the holiday period. But things have moved along well since then. Towers are done. I reckon they look awsome. Strong as all fuk. Only truss left to make is for the back of the hoods onto the chassis.
Still have the cross brace to tie them together and the bump stop mounts to fit on. Already fabbed just not fitted.
Here some pics.




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Old 01-19-2009, 05:25 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Lots of welding and grinding, more welding and more grinding and the mounts for the coilover were finished. Also completed the bump stop pads and the engine bay brace for the towers.
The towers have been braced from every conceivable (and reasonable) point. This includes the bump stop cans also.The panhard rod bracket received the same attention The rod you see going through the top of the panahrd rod bracket ties into the opposite side of the chassis. Cause most of the force is lateral we thought this would be added security against it bending. Its sits very close to the harmonic balancer even with the currie 1" motor mountlift, so I will keep an eye on it to make sure it causes no issues. Upper control arms were remade longer cause we realised we were right on the end of the thread.
The diff was finished also. Centre section assembled. Gave it a couple of coats with a pressure pack to pretty it up a bit. I also managed to get the gaurds back on. Alot of sheet metal came off from the inners and this has decreased the already limited area for all the elctrical crap, Cruise control module, water bottle, fuse box, relays etc etc... This is the next job. Also left to do is the axles and hub assemblies, service the drive shafts, brakes and wheels, reshape the currie antirock arms to clear the hoops. Tighten everything over check clearances. Finish off the electricals and drive it away.
Cant wait.
Here's some pics.
Finished and painted towers

All tied into the chassis showing the panhard rod brace bar also.

The other end of the panhard rod brace bar

Brace for the towers


Hardware all mounted up

gaurds trimmed and fitted

Bump stop pad


Cheers.
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Old 01-19-2009, 05:46 AM   #25 (permalink)
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I didn't know that they made left hand drive Jeeps... Aside from older mail trucks anyway.. Sweet build.
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