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Old 11-11-2012, 09:43 PM   #4126 (permalink)
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I believe your tach is on the 4 cyl setting. If it's not accurate, this is the problem. If it's not functional you have another issue.
Quote:
DTC P0106

Circuit Description


The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor responds to pressure changes in the intake manifold. The pressure changes occur based on the engine load. The MAP sensor has the following circuits:
• 5-volt reference circuit
• Low reference circuit
• MAP sensor signal circuit
The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies 5 volts to the MAP sensor on the 5-volt reference circuit. The PCM also provides a ground on the low reference circuit. The MAP sensor provides a signal to the PCM on the MAP sensor signal circuit which is relative to the pressure changes in the manifold. The PCM should detect a low signal voltage at a low MAP, such as during an idle or a deceleration. The PCM should detect a high signal voltage at a high MAP, such as the ignition is ON, with the engine OFF, or at a wide open throttle (WOT). The MAP sensor is also used in order to determine the barometric pressure (BARO). This occurs when the ignition switch is turned ON, with the engine OFF. The BARO reading may also be updated whenever the engine is operated at WOT. The PCM monitors the MAP sensor signal for voltage outside of the normal range.
The PCM calculates a predicted value for the MAP sensor based on the throttle position (TP) and the engine speed. The PCM then compares the predicted value to the actual MAP sensor signal. If the PCM detects that the MAP sensor signal is not within the predicted range, DTC P0106 sets.
Quote:
DTC P0101

Circuit Description


The mass air flow (MAF) sensor is an air flow meter that measures the amount of air entering the engine. The powertrain control module (PCM) uses the MAF sensor signal to provide the correct fuel delivery for all engine speeds and loads. A small quantity of air entering the engine indicates a deceleration or idle condition. A large quantity of air entering the engine indicates an acceleration or high load condition. The MAF sensor has the following circuits:
• An ignition 1 voltage circuit
• A ground circuit
• A signal circuit
The PCM applies a voltage to the sensor on the signal circuit. The sensor uses the voltage to produce a frequency based on the inlet air flow through the sensor bore. The frequency varies within a range of near 2,000 Hertz at idle to near 10,000 Hertz at maximum engine load. The PCM uses the following sensor inputs to calculate a predicted MAF value:
• The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
• The intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
• The engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor
• The engine speed (RPM)
The PCM compares the actual MAF sensor frequency signal to the predicted MAF value. This comparison will determine if the signal is stuck based on a lack of variation, or is too low or too high for a given operating condition. If the PCM detects the actual MAF sensor frequency signal is not within a predetermined range of the calculated MAF value DTC P0101 sets.

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Last edited by waynehartwig; 11-11-2012 at 09:45 PM. Reason: fix formatting
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Old 11-11-2012, 09:47 PM   #4127 (permalink)
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Kind of sounds like you might have a bad MAP sensor?

MAP - 12614973 (ACDelco #213-796)
MAF - 15904068 (ACDelco #213-4160)
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Old 11-12-2012, 04:21 AM   #4128 (permalink)
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Just looking at the harness that came from the yard with my motor.
The battery current control on the ground cable, near the battery
(just zip tied to the cable), does this get used in a stand alone harness?
Car manual says they were only used from 05 and up to save wear on the alternator.

Last edited by OCM; 11-12-2012 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:38 AM   #4129 (permalink)
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4l60e shifting from 1->2 late

Hi all,

ironing out some things which I thought to be tune related.
Have a pcm, ls1 engine, 4l60e trans from a 2001 holden and a speartech f-body (camaro style) harness. The donor was driven by me for 8 months perfectly before the teardown!

Since day one after the successful swap I noticed some reluctance before shifting from 1 to 2 ... especially going slow e.g. in a parking or turning it likes to stay in 1 and rev a bit too high for my liking ... then suddenly it shifts abruptly to 2.
(Interestingly after shifting to 2 it does not stay there long "enough" but quickly shifts to 3 while accelerating as well...)

So I thought my tire size(33") and final gear (4.88) shifting table adaptation through HPtuner maybe went wrong and I started to dig a bit further ...

Step one before adjusting shift points further is making sure the VSS is reading correctly and speed calculated accordingly right...

So ... switched my GPS on and plugged my scangaugeII in to check pcm speed readings ... and here is the culprit:

- starting SLOWLY from a dead stop ... my pcm speed readings stay at 0MPH until I have gained some speed (yes, set scangauge to FAST readings!) ... it usually STARTS at ABOVE 10MPH and is inaccurate and jumping at slow turning/parking speeds.
- after having gone through the slow speed confusion ... 20MHP and above seem to be accurate ...
- slowly coming to a stop sometimes the pcm readings follow the actual speed below 10MPH ... 7 ..4 ... 0 ... but not always!

so ... here my questions for anyone gone through similar issues:
- will a smaller gap between VSS sensor and reluctor ring cure my problem?
(Novak TC adapter with their supplied VSS sensor)
- or are there real quality differences between VSS sensors and I need a new one?
- or do I need to pull up the signal level ?

yeah ... most likely I have to go through all/some of above steps anyway ... EXCEPT I HAVE OVERLOOKED SOMETHING?
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Last edited by chmo; 11-12-2012 at 11:44 AM.
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:58 PM   #4130 (permalink)
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Ok this might sound like a noob question but I am going to ask it anyway. Does anyone know if you can tell what motor the truck had in it by the VIN number, without going through CarFax or the like? I ask because my sister wrecked her 07 1500 ext. cab yesterday and she doesn't know what motor is in it. I got her to give me the VIN and was wanting to see if it's worth buying back from the insurance for the motor. It's more than totaled, but the engine compartment is fine, nothing broken from what I can see from photos.

I just want to know if it has the 5.3 or not...otherwise I am going to pass on it.

TIA,

Trey
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:08 PM   #4131 (permalink)
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Nevermind found what I needed, it has the 4.8 I am going to pass. Sorry moderators for clogging up the thread, delete this and the above if you need to. Thanks.
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:23 PM   #4132 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
Hi all,

ironing out some things which I thought to be tune related.
Have a pcm, ls1 engine, 4l60e trans from a 2001 holden and a speartech f-body (camaro style) harness. The donor was driven by me for 8 months perfectly before the teardown!

Since day one after the successful swap I noticed some reluctance before shifting from 1 to 2 ... especially going slow e.g. in a parking or turning it likes to stay in 1 and rev a bit too high for my liking ... then suddenly it shifts abruptly to 2.
(Interestingly after shifting to 2 it does not stay there long "enough" but quickly shifts to 3 while accelerating as well...)

So I thought my tire size(33") and final gear (4.88) shifting table adaptation through HPtuner maybe went wrong and I started to dig a bit further ...

Step one before adjusting shift points further is making sure the VSS is reading correctly and speed calculated accordingly right...

So ... switched my GPS on and plugged my scangaugeII in to check pcm speed readings ... and here is the culprit:

- starting SLOWLY from a dead stop ... my pcm speed readings stay at 0MPH until I have gained some speed (yes, set scangauge to FAST readings!) ... it usually STARTS at ABOVE 10MPH and is inaccurate and jumping at slow turning/parking speeds.
- after having gone through the slow speed confusion ... 20MHP and above seem to be accurate ...
- slowly coming to a stop sometimes the pcm readings follow the actual speed below 10MPH ... 7 ..4 ... 0 ... but not always!

so ... here my questions for anyone gone through similar issues:
- will a smaller gap between VSS sensor and reluctor ring cure my problem?
(Novak TC adapter with their supplied VSS sensor)
- or are there real quality differences between VSS sensors and I need a new one?
- or do I need to pull up the signal level ?

yeah ... most likely I have to go through all/some of above steps anyway ... EXCEPT I HAVE OVERLOOKED SOMETHING?
You should be able to read AC voltage off the 2 wires from the vss. If not, bad vss, wiring, or too far from reluctor.
You can also do a quick check by reading the resistance in the two vss wires at the ecu.

Call Novak.

I have heard that you can install the sensor until it touched the ring and then back it off 1/2 turn and it should be good to go. No personal experience with this though.
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:44 PM   #4133 (permalink)
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Whats that VSS form Novak output spec? If maybe as simple as adjusting it via HPtuners till it reads right.
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Old 11-12-2012, 01:54 PM   #4134 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBlue View Post
Does anyone know if you can tell what motor the truck had in it by the VIN number, without going through CarFax or the like? I ask because my sister wrecked her 07 1500 ext. cab yesterday and she doesn't know what motor is in it. I got her to give me the VIN and was wanting to see if it's worth buying back from the insurance for the motor. It's more than totaled, but the engine compartment is fine, nothing broken from what I can see from photos.

I just want to know if it has the 5.3 or not...otherwise I am going to pass on it.

TIA,

Trey
Look at the "8"th VIN digit.

8th digit - engine
99-07 Trucks, Vans & SUV (GMT 800)
4.3L, VIN X or W (8th digit)
6.0L, VIN U (8th digit), (LQ4) Trucks, Vans and Denali
6.0L, VIN N (8th digit) (LQ9) Escalades & SS Silverado
4.8L, VIN V (8th digit)
5.3L, VIN T (8th digit, opt LM7)
5.3L, VIN Z (8th digit, opt L59)
5.3L, VIN B (8th digit, opt L33 05+ HO aluminum block with 799 heads)

07-up Trucks, Vans & SUV (GMT 900)
4.3L VIN X, (8th digit, opt LU3)
4.8L VIN C, (8th digit, opt LY2)
5.3L, VIN 0, (8th digit, opt LMG)
5.3L, VIN J, (8th digit, opt LY5)
5.3L, VIN 3, (8th digit, opt LC9)
5.3L, VIN M,(8th digit, opt LH6)
6.0L VIN Y, (8th digit, opt L76)
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Old 11-12-2012, 06:39 PM   #4135 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Kind of sounds like you might have a bad MAP sensor?

MAP - 12614973 (ACDelco #213-796)
MAF - 15904068 (ACDelco #213-4160)
Thanks for the answers Wayne...I'll try to test the MAP sensor and look for vacumm leaks again. I'll double check the tach hookup.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:19 PM   #4136 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
You should be able to read AC voltage off the 2 wires from the vss. If not, bad vss, wiring, or too far from reluctor.
You can also do a quick check by reading the resistance in the two vss wires at the ecu.

Call Novak.

I have heard that you can install the sensor until it touched the ring and then back it off 1/2 turn and it should be good to go. No personal experience with this though.
yeah ... the distance should be something between 0.012 and 0.030 as mentioned earlier in this thread ... 1/2 turn would be in that range.

Electrically the VSS is working ... but not strong enough signal at low speeds.
I assume that the pulse output signal level of a VSS (hall or magnetic) is dependent as well from the speed of the reluctor pins passing. If the distance is too big I might get a weak reading with slow speeds.
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:31 PM   #4137 (permalink)
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Whats that VSS form Novak output spec? If maybe as simple as adjusting it via HPtuners till it reads right.
hmmm ... 40 pulses per revolution for the reluctor ring ... the sensor it self must only be able to read/transmit the pulses properly.

All other values are derived/calculated from the tire size and final drive ratio.

Electrically on AC level there is no adjustability for the pcm ... the sensor needs just to deliver the pulse signal levels in spec.

It reads right for speeds >20MPH ... just wrong/weak for slower speeds ... I think its either contacts/cable or distance problem.

Thanks all anyways ... will keep you updated.
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Old 11-13-2012, 03:46 AM   #4138 (permalink)
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Does anyone have the info on if the battery current control
must be kept in the harrness or not?
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:26 AM   #4139 (permalink)
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you dont need it.

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Old 11-13-2012, 09:03 AM   #4140 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBlue View Post
Ok this might sound like a noob question but I am going to ask it anyway. Does anyone know if you can tell what motor the truck had in it by the VIN number, without going through CarFax or the like? I ask because my sister wrecked her 07 1500 ext. cab yesterday and she doesn't know what motor is in it. I got her to give me the VIN and was wanting to see if it's worth buying back from the insurance for the motor. It's more than totaled, but the engine compartment is fine, nothing broken from what I can see from photos.

I just want to know if it has the 5.3 or not...otherwise I am going to pass on it.

TIA,

Trey
PM me the VIN and I can tell you
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Old 11-13-2012, 09:33 AM   #4141 (permalink)
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yeah ... the distance should be something between 0.012 and 0.030 as mentioned earlier in this thread ... 1/2 turn would be in that range.

Electrically the VSS is working ... but not strong enough signal at low speeds.
I assume that the pulse output signal level of a VSS (hall or magnetic) is dependent as well from the speed of the reluctor pins passing. If the distance is too big I might get a weak reading with slow speeds.
I had a similar issue with mine initially. I was using an electronic speedo also so it was easy to diagnose. I adjusted the sensor closer and speedo operation and shifting became normal.
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:05 PM   #4142 (permalink)
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I had a similar issue with mine initially. I was using an electronic speedo also so it was easy to diagnose. I adjusted the sensor closer and speedo operation and shifting became normal.
thanks for the feedback! earliest i can crawl under my jeep again is thursday. looking foward ...

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Old 11-14-2012, 07:07 AM   #4143 (permalink)
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Looking to do a 5.3 in a CJ-8 that already had a SBC in it.

Has anyone used the Advanced adapters Flywheel and mount plate adapters? Had medium success with AA in the past
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:29 PM   #4144 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KacksterK5 View Post
Looking to do a 5.3 in a CJ-8 that already had a SBC in it.

Has anyone used the Advanced adapters Flywheel and mount plate adapters? Had medium success with AA in the past
Here is a cheaper route. I assume if its a SBC conversion already like mine your running a turbo 350 or 400. If not disregard. I was looking at the AA as well and have not heard of any problems but there are cheaper conversions out there like the link below I grabbed from Bo

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/11065304-post1.html
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:59 AM   #4145 (permalink)
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He said flywheel so I assume manual trans. which there are options for doing them cheaper than AA as well.

Also, I would just fab the flat adapter plates if your able to Kackster be way cheaper.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:44 PM   #4146 (permalink)
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So im still trying to figure out why my oil pressure gauge doesnt work when my non working novak tach module is not wired in....please read this, post 25.

Tj oil pressure gauge - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

. Does this mean on 05 and up jeeps, the oil pressure gauge is a half ass gauge, that also only works if the tach is working? Ppl say i may have wiring wrong but i think its right. And since the oil pressuregauge sees no rpm, it keeps the needle at the L. Does anyone have an 05 or 06 tj with no tachometer what so ever, with a working oil pressure gauge?

Sorry but ive been going NUTS trying to crack this problem.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:17 PM   #4147 (permalink)
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get a wiring diagram for your jeep specifically. when i wired in my novak module a few of my wires were different color combos. I only knew this because I have a FSM for my year of Jeep. my gauges all work perfectly.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:02 AM   #4148 (permalink)
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ok ... UPDATE on auto shift/VSS problem:
was all a VSS sensor to tone ring distance issue.

released jam nut ... screwed disconnected VSS in until it touched (needed a few turns!) ... screwed 1/2 turn back out ... tightened jam nut ... connected pigtail ... went for a test drive ... DONE!

auto shifts from 1->2 and back as intended ... no jerking tires and no scary moments in tight turns anymore
(scangaugeII is giving me speeds as low as 1 and 2 km/h from my pcm )

thanks for the feedback, guys!
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:50 PM   #4149 (permalink)
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Awesome read!!
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:06 PM   #4150 (permalink)
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I made it only a 1/4 way through this thread looking for a few answers but figured I would post up the questions...

I'm currently running 4.0/ax14/231/300. I'm planning on doing the 5.3/4L60E swap. I have the 27 spline input for my case already.

My question being is there a list out there of donor rigs? Such as I'd like to purchase the motor/trans/ecu/harness all together for simplicity.

That being said I hope that a new rad, harness, and flashed ecu would be the most part of the swap. I have fuel system setup already.
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