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Old 10-13-2014, 02:49 PM   #5326 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aloharover View Post
Confirm power to the relay.
Remove ground leads and ground the relay.
If the fans come on than the relays and fan wiring is correct.

If you have a multi meter, you can check resistance/continuity of the wire from the ECM to the Ralys.

If not I think I would unplug both connectors at the ECM. Check that the relays have power. Then ground the two pins in the ECM connector.

I have grounded the "control" side of the relay and my fans work just fine. I will double check between the PCM connector and the relay. Make sure i'm making connection.
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:43 AM   #5327 (permalink)
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??? Ground the wire from the PCM at the PCM connector??? So verify continuity between PCM and realys
Unhoook the connectors at the PCM. Put a ground to the pins yourself. See if the fans turn on.
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Old 10-16-2014, 11:04 AM   #5328 (permalink)
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While we are talking about PCM controlled fans, I have a few questions. I know there is a ground circuit for high speed and a ground circuit for low speed. (C1-42 and C2-33). What is the difference? Does the low speed provide a resisted ground to turn the fan slow and the high speed provide a ground with no resistance to run the fan at maximum speed? I am running a single, single speed fan wired through one relay. I have triggered the relay with the high speed and then with the low speed. I don't notice a difference.
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Old 10-16-2014, 11:54 AM   #5329 (permalink)
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While we are talking about PCM controlled fans, I have a few questions. I know there is a ground circuit for high speed and a ground circuit for low speed. (C1-42 and C2-33). What is the difference? Does the low speed provide a resisted ground to turn the fan slow and the high speed provide a ground with no resistance to run the fan at maximum speed? I am running a single, single speed fan wired through one relay. I have triggered the relay with the high speed and then with the low speed. I don't notice a difference.

Have to have a two speed fan to utilize the high and low. One relay is set at 195 deg and the other for 210 roughly. It's just a switch, that grounds when a certain temp is reached.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:14 PM   #5330 (permalink)
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Have to have a two speed fan to utilize the high and low. One relay is set at 195 deg and the other for 210 roughly. It's just a switch, that grounds when a certain temp is reached.
Ok, that being said....is it acceptable to use the low speed fan circuit "only" as the trigger to run one single speed fan? I would leave the high speed fan wire taped up and unused.
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Old 10-16-2014, 12:44 PM   #5331 (permalink)
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Ok, that being said....is it acceptable to use the low speed fan circuit "only" as the trigger to run one single speed fan? I would leave the high speed fan wire taped up and unused.
yes. Its just a ground circuit for the relay, not the fan. You could use either fan relay connection as in effect they are the exact same thing, the only difference is the point in the programming where the computer turns on one fan relay (low speed fan motor circuit) vs turning on the other relay (high speed fan motor circuit). It wont have any effect on how fast your fan runs.
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:07 PM   #5332 (permalink)
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While we are talking about PCM controlled fans, I have a few questions. I know there is a ground circuit for high speed and a ground circuit for low speed. (C1-42 and C2-33). What is the difference? Does the low speed provide a resisted ground to turn the fan slow and the high speed provide a ground with no resistance to run the fan at maximum speed? I am running a single, single speed fan wired through one relay. I have triggered the relay with the high speed and then with the low speed. I don't notice a difference.

FWIW...

The way my 2007 truck 5.3 was wired up, there was a separate box with 3 relays and some fuses in it. There is a heavy gauge (8 I believe) wire going from a hot lug to the relays. There are two wires that go to a plug with the ECM harness, this is the ground signals from the ECM. There were two 12g wires that lead to the cooling fans. One wire to each fan.


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Ok, that being said....is it acceptable to use the low speed fan circuit "only" as the trigger to run one single speed fan? I would leave the high speed fan wire taped up and unused.
Yes
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:09 PM   #5333 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by shopteach View Post
While we are talking about PCM controlled fans, I have a few questions. I know there is a ground circuit for high speed and a ground circuit for low speed. (C1-42 and C2-33). What is the difference? Does the low speed provide a resisted ground to turn the fan slow and the high speed provide a ground with no resistance to run the fan at maximum speed? I am running a single, single speed fan wired through one relay. I have triggered the relay with the high speed and then with the low speed. I don't notice a difference.
The PCM can set fan1 and fan2 at different temperatures. Both are only triggers, and don't have any different electrical properties to them. They are simply just two separately controlled circuits.

In order for the low/high speed fan setup to work, there are three relays. On low, only one relay is on and both fans are at this point in series and splitting the current/voltage draw, and thus causing them in a low speed status. In high speed, the two other relays come on and supply each fan with the full load/voltage.

Low is main fan and aux is the second fan. If you are going to use only one fan, you would want it on the low or fan1/relay1 circuit.
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:13 PM   #5334 (permalink)
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FWIW...

The way my 2007 truck 5.3 was wired up, there was a separate box with 3 relays and some fuses in it. There is a heavy gauge (8 I believe) wire going from a hot lug to the relays. There are two wires that go to a plug with the ECM harness, this is the ground signals from the ECM. There were two 12g wires that lead to the cooling fans. One wire to each fan.

I haven't tested this, but I believe, based on the way it's wired, one fan comes on with the "low speed" signal, and then the second comes on with the "high speed".

I do know that on my Saturn it works this way. The car doesn't have a two speed fan, but two fans that turn at different speeds.


Yes
No, in GM world, if there is a two speed fan setup (LS cars, 1/2 ton trucks after 05, etc), there are two fans and both will turn in low and high speed mode.
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:16 PM   #5335 (permalink)
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No, in GM world, if there is a two speed fan setup (LS cars, 1/2 ton trucks after 05, etc), there are two fans and both will turn in low and high speed mode.
Thanks... I corrected my post

Wonder if that means there is something wrong with the saturn
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Old 10-16-2014, 01:21 PM   #5336 (permalink)
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Thanks... like I said I haven't tested it

Wonder if that means there is something wrong with the saturn
Saturn is it's own deal and I have no idea about them

Chances are if it's two separate fans that are controlled separately, they are not two speed.
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Old 10-16-2014, 02:37 PM   #5337 (permalink)
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Thanks Wayne, Gemner, and 183Beast...appreciate the info
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Old 10-16-2014, 11:21 PM   #5338 (permalink)
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I currently have a Dodge 5.9 in my Jeep. I'm going to fit a CBR radiator within the front tube work, one that I can use next year with the LS swap.


Max size I can get in there is a 12.5x31 with 2 12 inch fans. Will I have any trouble with an LS2?
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:03 AM   #5339 (permalink)
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I currently have a Dodge 5.9 in my Jeep. I'm going to fit a CBR radiator within the front tube work, one that I can use next year with the LS swap.


Max size I can get in there is a 12.5x31 with 2 12 inch fans. Will I have any trouble with an LS2?
mine is a 31x11 2 core (1.25" tubes). It seems to stay cool. I am upgrading to a taurus fan as the fan setup that I have now is just pieced together from an old setup. As it is, I have two 10" fans from a three fan setup that I used with the 4.0L. Even with just two crappy fans mounted directly to the radiator it stays within reasonable operating temp up to about 80F. I have only driven it as warm as 90F outside and it ran up to about 210. Stays perfectly cool at freeway speed even with warm outdoor temps. I have no doubt a good fan like the taurus and a shroud will keep it plenty cool at low speed. If you can fit a 3 core with at least 1" tubes you will probably have plenty of radiator.

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Old 10-17-2014, 12:26 PM   #5340 (permalink)
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Read this whole thread and have not found anyone else with my problem.

2001 chevy 5.3 in YJ hydro assist w/ stock power steering pump. It sucks to turn unless I give it just a touch of gas. Then it powers through anything. When im driving I have no issues obviously, but mall crawling is hard when you can't turn your wheels while sitting still.

Am i missing something or is my pump on its way out? (I have cycled it several times with the wheels off the ground).
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:35 PM   #5341 (permalink)
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Read this whole thread and have not found anyone else with my problem.

2001 chevy 5.3 in YJ hydro assist w/ stock power steering pump. It sucks to turn unless I give it just a touch of gas. Then it powers through anything. When im driving I have no issues obviously, but mall crawling is hard when you can't turn your wheels while sitting still.

Am i missing something or is my pump on its way out? (I have cycled it several times with the wheels off the ground).
stock power steering pump? Stock on the 5.3 or stock on the YJ?
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:37 PM   #5342 (permalink)
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Stock 5.3 power steering pump.
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:33 PM   #5343 (permalink)
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It might be the pump. I have a 6.0 in my Willys with a PSC pump and ram. At idle I turn the wheel faster than the ram likes (it has a resistance). Low RPMs = low volume of fluid which means you are manually pushing the ram. A higher volume pump may help out your situation. I found that the guys at PSC are happy to help if you call
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:13 PM   #5344 (permalink)
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Read this whole thread and have not found anyone else with my problem.

2001 chevy 5.3 in YJ hydro assist w/ stock power steering pump. It sucks to turn unless I give it just a touch of gas. Then it powers through anything. When im driving I have no issues obviously, but mall crawling is hard when you can't turn your wheels while sitting still.

Am i missing something or is my pump on its way out? (I have cycled it several times with the wheels off the ground).
Pump not enough flow. Get a power steering pump from a vehicle (GM) with hydro boost brakes. Like Duramax or 3/4-1 ton gas (6.0/8.1). That'l fix it
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Old 10-20-2014, 05:45 PM   #5345 (permalink)
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Anyone using the LS4 oil pan on there 5.3 jeeps?? i know it bolts up and give much more clearance but i have not found anything on if they have the baffles set up in the pan differently for a FWD car...Reason is i can find these super cheap where the f body pans are closer to 300$$
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:47 AM   #5346 (permalink)
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Anyone using the LS4 oil pan on there 5.3 jeeps?? i know it bolts up and give much more clearance but i have not found anything on if they have the baffles set up in the pan differently for a FWD car...Reason is i can find these super cheap where the f body pans are closer to 300$$
It sure looks like the LS4 pans have no baffling at all.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:11 PM   #5347 (permalink)
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It sure looks like the LS4 pans have no baffling at all.
guess thats why noone is running them
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Old 10-22-2014, 09:13 PM   #5348 (permalink)
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Fuel gauge

Sorry i searched but the search by thread sucks on here....

Ive got my 5.3 in and running great but ive go no fuel gauge. We all know that auto meter does not make a gauge for the jeep fuel senders ohm signals. Using a resistor inline in isnt very accurate, and the stock guage wont work without whatever pcm signal i eliminated.

Could this be as easy as taking the sender off a gm pump and swapping out the sender on the jeep pump and then using an autometer gauge for a chevy? Has anyone tried this without blowing up your jeep?
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Old 10-22-2014, 09:39 PM   #5349 (permalink)
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If you're married to autometer, that would be a complicated way to do it. Pretty much every brand of gauges makes their own sender you can add to your tank. If you've got a stock CJ tank, something like

THIS

will just swap in place of the stock sender. Like I said, pretty much every brand has something like that to match their gauges.
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:54 AM   #5350 (permalink)
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Autometer now makes a programmable fuel gauge that should work. I've seen several LS conversions running autometer fuel gauges.
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