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Old 06-13-2017, 11:11 AM   #6326 (permalink)
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6.0 with atlas

I am getting ready to do my conversion on my 2006 TJ Rubicon. I will use either a 6.0 or 5.3 with an automatic transmission. I would like to use a 6 speed automatic but no one makes an adapter for the 241OR transfercase. They do make one for an atlas transfercase. Or should I just use a 4L80e?

What route is recommended by this forum?

This is going to be used mainly on the street with mild offroad use.

Mike
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:24 AM   #6327 (permalink)
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The extra low first gear and high double overdrive gears in the 6 speed is really nice. Mine crawls like it has a doubler and is only at 2000 RPM at highway speed. Shifts beautifully going down the road too. I'm also told that it's mega strong in stock form. I talked to an Ultra 4 racer who ran a 4400 buggy with a cammed L92 two full seasons on a 100% stock trans and had zero issues. And it still looked good when they tore it down.

The only issue I have with the 6 speed is it doesn't go down the trail in low very well. The transmission shifts a lot and every time it upshifts, the engine is cut back for 1/2 a second, which can be annoying and frustrating. Even in full manual mode, it still over-rides and goes back to 1st or 2nd every time you slow down. In reality, you could start in 3rd or 4th in low which would be the same as 1st or 2nd in high (I haven't done the math, just saying). My trans tuner said there's no way to tell the trans that it's in low range, so this will happen.

Last edited by knaffie; 06-13-2017 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:37 AM   #6328 (permalink)
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if the extra $$ of the Atlas is in your budget I'd jump all over the 6 speed. I've always wanted to build a rig with one....
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:46 AM   #6329 (permalink)
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6.0

The money really isn't an issue. Does anyone know how difficult it is with the atlas to make the shifter for the transfercase look fairly stock?
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:49 AM   #6330 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The money really isn't an issue. Does anyone know how difficult it is with the atlas to make the shifter for the transfercase look fairly stock?
Easy. Random image from Google search.

EDIT: Mine look better than that, but I don't have any pics handy. I can grab some tonight when I get home.
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Last edited by knaffie; 06-13-2017 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:49 AM   #6331 (permalink)
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I'd like to have your problems.


Buy a cable shifter and be done with it.
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Old 06-13-2017, 11:49 AM   #6332 (permalink)
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5.3 Jeeps

Quote:
Originally Posted by Heimbig View Post
I am getting ready to do my conversion on my 2006 TJ Rubicon. I will use either a 6.0 or 5.3 with an automatic transmission. I would like to use a 6 speed automatic but no one makes an adapter for the 241OR transfercase. They do make one for an atlas transfercase. Or should I just use a 4L80e?



What route is recommended by this forum?



This is going to be used mainly on the street with mild offroad use.



Mike


I love my 6L80, and the upgrade I did to run it manually:





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Old 06-13-2017, 11:56 AM   #6333 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The money really isn't an issue. Does anyone know how difficult it is with the atlas to make the shifter for the transfercase look fairly stock?

Not much still stock on my Jeep anyway.

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Old 06-13-2017, 12:25 PM   #6334 (permalink)
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The money really isn't an issue. Does anyone know how difficult it is with the atlas to make the shifter for the transfercase look fairly stock?
It's not very difficult to do with the universal rail shifters that come with the atlas, just a lot of adjusting to get them in the right spot.
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:27 PM   #6335 (permalink)
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What temperature is everyone running at on the highway.

I've got a Novak Radiator and electric fan combo from Novak. I've also got a B&M transcooler and winch in front of the radiator. Using the stock TJ guage I'm betting i'm between 190-210 with the fan kicking on at highway speeds.

Should I be running cooler at highway? Should be electric fan be kicking on at highway?
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Old 06-13-2017, 12:30 PM   #6336 (permalink)
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I love my 6L80, and the upgrade I did to run it manually:
That's cool.

You can also grab a shifter from a 2011 Malibu for $50. It fits nice under the OEM console and the tapshift buttons work.
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:48 PM   #6337 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The money really isn't an issue. Does anyone know how difficult it is with the atlas to make the shifter for the transfercase look fairly stock?
Gonna clean it up better for version 2.0 when I pull the lm7/4L65 for a lq9/4L80 in a month or so. But how it looks today.


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Old 06-14-2017, 07:17 AM   #6338 (permalink)
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I got a few PMs asking about the Malibu shifter. I don't have any pics with the console off, but it's just bolted to the floor and the trans cable goes through an existing hole in the firewall without problems. I have a shifter boot being made right now that should finish it off nicely.

This shifter has P R N D1 D2. You can program the trans to shift differently in each D position. Mine is programmed for normal shifting in D1 and "sport mode" in D2, which makes it hold the shift longer and shifter much firmer. Like barks 40s in 1-2 and 2-3 firmer. Tapshift is activated any time you push the +/- buttons and is canceled by holding the + button for 2 seconds. Pretty slick setup.
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Last edited by knaffie; 06-14-2017 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 06-14-2017, 09:20 AM   #6339 (permalink)
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is there a wiring harness for the tap shift that connects to the wiring harness along with the shift cable?
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Old 06-14-2017, 09:24 AM   #6340 (permalink)
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Quote:
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is there a wiring harness for the tap shift that connects to the wiring harness along with the shift cable?
I'm not sure if there's a harness available. It's only two wires. One is 12 volt and one goes to the trans.
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Old 06-14-2017, 05:18 PM   #6341 (permalink)
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putting a 5.3 in my cj8,was wondering what radiator people are using?
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:28 AM   #6342 (permalink)
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6.0 shifter

With the Malibu shifter do you use the stock Malibu cable and what do you do about the interlock for having to press the brake to shift from park?
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:56 AM   #6343 (permalink)
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With the Malibu shifter do you use the stock Malibu cable and what do you do about the interlock for having to press the brake to shift from park?
I don't know what cable I have, sorry. The OEM Jeep interlock cable is not hooked up.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:03 AM   #6344 (permalink)
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Anybody have any ideas?

Looking for some help understanding this situation please. Last weekend in 110+ degree weather, my temperature usually floated between 200 and 215 when I’m crawling. It would only hit 220 unless it’s a long climb and comes back down quickly once I crest the hill or back off the throttle. No problem. Twice this weekend the gauge randomly went seemingly out of control and eventually hit 260(?)+ for an hour or so. It floated around between 230 and the A in Auto Meter. AT THE SAME TIME, the temp sensor for the ECU (I monitor with my Ipad) never broke 215. The engine didn’t feel hot. Coolant never boiled over. No limp mode. Didn’t run any different. Nothing I did to get the temp down as quickly as possible go it to go below 240. Then as randomly as it went out of control, it went back to reading normal again. So either the gauge just went crazy for a while (it’s a mechanical gauge, so there there’s no possibility for a short), or I have a legitimate hot spot in the head where the temp sensor is (passenger side rear head). I’m trying to understand how this is possible and what I need to do about it. The front steam ports are hooked up properly, but the rear ones are still plugged (OEM configuration). No visible leaks or problems. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:26 AM   #6345 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knaffie View Post
Anybody have any ideas?

Looking for some help understanding this situation please. Last weekend in 110+ degree weather, my temperature usually floated between 200 and 215 when Iím crawling. It would only hit 220 unless itís a long climb and comes back down quickly once I crest the hill or back off the throttle. No problem. Twice this weekend the gauge randomly went seemingly out of control and eventually hit 260(?)+ for an hour or so. It floated around between 230 and the A in Auto Meter. AT THE SAME TIME, the temp sensor for the ECU (I monitor with my Ipad) never broke 215. The engine didnít feel hot. Coolant never boiled over. No limp mode. Didnít run any different. Nothing I did to get the temp down as quickly as possible go it to go below 240. Then as randomly as it went out of control, it went back to reading normal again. So either the gauge just went crazy for a while (itís a mechanical gauge, so there thereís no possibility for a short), or I have a legitimate hot spot in the head where the temp sensor is (passenger side rear head). Iím trying to understand how this is possible and what I need to do about it. The front steam ports are hooked up properly, but the rear ones are still plugged (OEM configuration). No visible leaks or problems. Any help is appreciated.
Probably picking up exhaust heat, from no air flow back in that tight area. My race car does it real bad on the dyno, but not so much when moving. But it can heat soak on long races.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:19 PM   #6346 (permalink)
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Well yesterday I brought out the TJ on its first voyage. Some crazy noise came out of the transfer case planetary area. It's a 92 231c Hybrid with a 6 geared planetary that I swapped in for the 4 geared stocker. So today I put back in the stock planetary that came with the 231c and had the same noise but not as severe. I'm guessing that It may be a bad case or something. I'm going to have to locate one from the junkyard. Hopefully the third times the charm... Anyone have anything like this happen to them?
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Old 06-20-2017, 11:57 AM   #6347 (permalink)
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Starts and runs then dies have scanner and I'm baffled.

Swap into 83 cj has been running great for last couple years. Lq4 bone stock drive by cable with 150 (stock I believe)tune on it. Was driving down street and died wouldn't start for several hours. Seemed down on power prior to stall and smelled rich. Now will start and run for different time periods. When I died the first time I thought it was fpr so I replaced roadside with no change. Unplugged maf and will still run but hiccups when unplugged but doesn't die. Known working map sensor no change. Have 55 lbs pressure after death. 62 with vacuum line pulled. Fuel pump runs after stall. Seems like harder to start with heat soaked. When it does run it really stumbles and runs better at high rpm but not always. I pulled injectors and rigged 9 volt and carb cleaner pressure and seemed like even spray. Codes show 0650 0507 0102 0103. I don't know if I caused those codes by unplugging stuff because I tried everything I could think of on the side of the road before I could scan it. Mil has never worked in this thing . If anyone sees an obvious problem please speak up. I can scan live data but not for long as it will die when I'm answering scanner questions. 7076888959 if contacting directly to help. I have some scan data but never have uploaded a pic on here.

Got it fixed. With a different scanner and a friend I was able to see 600 g/s via the maf sensor just starting it. It was flooding it out. Also when looking at the sensor it was not dirty, it had a black spot where one of the resistors connected to bars in the housing like it burnt out.
-Clarke

Last edited by clarke2828; 06-21-2017 at 10:28 AM. Reason: Fixed
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Old 06-22-2017, 09:20 AM   #6348 (permalink)
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question for all 5.3swappers,will 2005-2013 corvette c6 exhaust manifolds clear advanced adaptors motor mounts in my cj8 5.3 swap,trying to get what im going to need in advance to save some time,also what about radiator that is not gonna break the bank, I plan on running electric fan.this thread is awesome with lots of info it has definatly helped out.
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Old 06-24-2017, 02:05 PM   #6349 (permalink)
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Question Exhaust Manifold W/EGR?

I have a 98 TJ and I'm installing a 5.3 LM7 and 4L60E out of an 01 Chevy and the stock 231j. I am using motor mounts, adapter and SYE from Novak. I have emissions here so I am keeping them. I am looking for some exhaust manifolds that will work with the EGR valve. For those of you in a similar situation, what worked well for you. I am not looking to get around the required emissions requirements, just for what works best while keeping them.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 06-24-2017, 02:51 PM   #6350 (permalink)
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I am using the factory truck manifolds. But I have a custom four link in the front. Not sure how'd they would fit in anything else.
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