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Old 12-10-2017, 02:53 PM   #6476 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aemedic View Post
So, Iím getting ready to mount the 231J transfer case W/SYE on the Novak 4L60 tail housing adapter. Thinking about clearance and driveline angles with the 4Ē Savvy/Currie lift, what is a good clocking position? My thinking is, just under level with the rear output shaft position...

Any insight from the masses?
I went with closest to level that would fit without having to bash the tub in
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Old 12-10-2017, 08:42 PM   #6477 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ACRay View Post
I went with closest to level that would fit without having to bash the tub in
Thank you, that sounds logical to me.
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Old 12-17-2017, 04:30 PM   #6478 (permalink)
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My LS project is coming along
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Old 12-17-2017, 08:00 PM   #6479 (permalink)
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My LS project is coming along
How bout that trans cooler? I'm lookin for ideas on mounting my way too oversized transcoder up where my intercooler heat exchanger was mounted
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Old 12-18-2017, 07:16 AM   #6480 (permalink)
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It is one of these kind Flex-a-lite 41166TJ Direct-fit Translife Transmission Oil Cooler with -6 AN Fittings for Jeep TJ and YJ
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Old 12-19-2017, 07:54 PM   #6481 (permalink)
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It is one of these kind Flex-a-lite 41166TJ Direct-fit Translife Transmission Oil Cooler with -6 AN Fittings for Jeep TJ and YJ
I've got that Derale frame mount TJ specific cooler with fan on mine BUT I don't have any other cooler (like the fluid running through the radiator) for my 4L65E and I don't think that cooler is really enough to keep it cooled off ... at least not enough if I ever tow more than 20 pounds LOL. So I'm gonna add another plate cooler in the grille like that to make sure I don't toast the trans. Just trying to find one that isn't 500 bucks

Last edited by ACRay; 12-19-2017 at 07:54 PM.
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Old 12-20-2017, 07:31 AM   #6482 (permalink)
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I've got that Derale frame mount TJ specific cooler with fan on mine BUT I don't have any other cooler (like the fluid running through the radiator) for my 4L65E and I don't think that cooler is really enough to keep it cooled off ... at least not enough if I ever tow more than 20 pounds LOL. So I'm gonna add another plate cooler in the grille like that to make sure I don't toast the trans. Just trying to find one that isn't 500 bucks
This what I ended up using.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...BoC9hcQAvD_BwE

I just mounted it right in the grill in front of the radiator. I don't have a trans temp gauge, so I don't know how well its working.
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Old 12-23-2017, 10:39 AM   #6483 (permalink)
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Did a bit of searching but no definitive answer - Do I need this NSS and backup light switch? I essentially want to shorten my shift lever arm stickout since it's rubbing my driveline. Just wanted some opinions in here since this is more Jeep related so starting in drive, which I think would be beneficial for us to start the rig on a hill if we lose power.

I see that people bypass them based on this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ty-switch.html
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Last edited by gtxracer; 12-23-2017 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:01 PM   #6484 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gtxracer View Post
Did a bit of searching but no definitive answer - Do I need this NSS and backup light switch? I essentially want to shorten my shift lever arm stickout since it's rubbing my driveline. Just wanted some opinions in here since this is more Jeep related so starting in drive, which I think would be beneficial for us to start the rig on a hill if we lose power.

I see that people bypass them based on this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ty-switch.html
I don't run a nss or back up light switch with my th350, but I'm not sure how important they are when running a 4l60e.
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Old 12-25-2017, 08:50 AM   #6485 (permalink)
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...hoCx1AQAvD_BwE

I run that cooler for a th400 with a 2800 stall converter. Trans never gets above 220. Usual driving temps are around 160ish. It is mounted right infront of my radiator. Cooler does amazing, when it's hot you can't touch the line to the cooler but the return line is fine to hold

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Old 12-25-2017, 12:56 PM   #6486 (permalink)
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I don't run a nss or back up light switch with my th350, but I'm not sure how important they are when running a 4l60e.
Thanks! What I found out from searching is that the NSS isn't required but many people advise using it. I'm used to starting in any gear so it's fine.

I also found that there's a short version of the shift shaft that can be installed to gain more space and clean up that side of the case. I'll post the p/n when I find it.
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Old 12-25-2017, 11:13 PM   #6487 (permalink)
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Can I get some input on flywheel/clutch options for an 04 5.3 (short crank) to an older (92~) NV4500 with the external slave?

It appears the Sachs NFW1050 or the AMS 167577 is the flywheel to use, which is the flywheel with the built in spacer for 01+ 6L trucks.

From there is seems you can either pull the dowels and use the clutch kit for that year transmission, IE a Luk 04-163 or 04163, and you may have to enlarge the mounting holes. Or you can possibly use the later clutch kit for the 6L, such as Luk 04-201 or 04201 and NOT pull the dowels, which should bolt up tickity-boo as it is the clutch that goes with this flywheel.

Which choice have you used, and did it actually work? I'm concerned the newer style clutch will not play with the external slave cylinder, but would rather use it as it is meant to go with that flywheel.

And what slave cylinder did you use? I'd assume the one for that year transmission, IE a Luk LSC118?

I think the pilot bearing I need is P/N CT1082. Confirm?


I do not want to convert to an internal slave, and searching produced a lot of conflicting info. It sounds like pulling the dowels and using the clutch that goes with that transmission is the safest bet, but yeah, what did ya'll do?
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Old 12-26-2017, 04:45 PM   #6488 (permalink)
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Another quick question.

Part of the reason I decided to go with a NV4500 is I thought it would be simpler as I had been told I wouldn't need a VSS. While that is correct, reading about it clearly indicates that I want a VSS since this is for a daily driver type vehicle.

Has anyone used an axle mounted VSS? I have a Dodge D70u and a Dodge AAM 11.5 as my two rear axle options, both have a tone ring/VSS in them. I'm assuming with HP Tuners I can correct for whatever output the Dodge style VSS produces, or is that not going to work?

I don't see any VSS kits for the NV4500, only generic ones that go in the tailhousing of a tcase or on an output yoke, which is the route I'd go if the axle one won't work.
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:15 AM   #6489 (permalink)
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I am using a 1994 4wd NV4500.
I got a flywheel, and clutch kit for a 2007 GMC 6.0

LuK 04-201 clutch, pilot, pressure plate
Centerforce N1716 T/O bearing
Sachs NFW1050 Flywheel
Mr Gasket 910 pressure plate bolts
ARP 3302802 Flywheel bolts
LUK LSC118 Slave cylinder.

Everything bolted together ok. But I am not running yet.

My VSS is in the transfercase (NP241)

After I got everything installed I discovered the external slave on the 1994 NV4500 is fouling the front drive shaft (RHD).
The later internal slaved NV4500s use a different bolt pattern at the bellhousing, only the top two bolts line up. So I can't just use the later bellhousing and internal slave so I have ordered the AA bellhousing, has the slave on the lefthand side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyComanche View Post
Can I get some input on flywheel/clutch options for an 04 5.3 (short crank) to an older (92~) NV4500 with the external slave?

It appears the Sachs NFW1050 or the AMS 167577 is the flywheel to use, which is the flywheel with the built in spacer for 01+ 6L trucks.

From there is seems you can either pull the dowels and use the clutch kit for that year transmission, IE a Luk 04-163 or 04163, and you may have to enlarge the mounting holes. Or you can possibly use the later clutch kit for the 6L, such as Luk 04-201 or 04201 and NOT pull the dowels, which should bolt up tickity-boo as it is the clutch that goes with this flywheel.

Which choice have you used, and did it actually work? I'm concerned the newer style clutch will not play with the external slave cylinder, but would rather use it as it is meant to go with that flywheel.

And what slave cylinder did you use? I'd assume the one for that year transmission, IE a Luk LSC118?

I think the pilot bearing I need is P/N CT1082. Confirm?


I do not want to convert to an internal slave, and searching produced a lot of conflicting info. It sounds like pulling the dowels and using the clutch that goes with that transmission is the safest bet, but yeah, what did ya'll do?
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:38 AM   #6490 (permalink)
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Everything bolted together ok. But I am not running yet.
A common problem with searching was that people would say they bought the stuff but haven't actually ran it yet to see if the clutch actually functions correctly. Then they never update to say if it does or doesn't.
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:29 AM   #6491 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DirtyComanche View Post
Another quick question.

Part of the reason I decided to go with a NV4500 is I thought it would be simpler as I had been told I wouldn't need a VSS. While that is correct, reading about it clearly indicates that I want a VSS since this is for a daily driver type vehicle.

Has anyone used an axle mounted VSS? I have a Dodge D70u and a Dodge AAM 11.5 as my two rear axle options, both have a tone ring/VSS in them. I'm assuming with HP Tuners I can correct for whatever output the Dodge style VSS produces, or is that not going to work?

I don't see any VSS kits for the NV4500, only generic ones that go in the tailhousing of a tcase or on an output yoke, which is the route I'd go if the axle one won't work.
on my LM7 XJ swap I used cheap eBay hall efect sensor with magnet on the rear yoke from transfercase and dakota digital speedometer interface SGI-5E for converting the signal. It can be used for the stock cluster (with stock Jeep ECU) and for the GM ECU also. It is working without problems.
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Old 12-27-2017, 04:44 PM   #6492 (permalink)
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If the VSS provides erroneous information in low range/double low range with a manual tranny, will that produce any issues from a drivability standpoint? Or is it good enough at that point that it simply can tell if the vehicle is moving or not?

If it's an issue I'm thinking maybe a guy could put a VSS in the NV4500 tailhousing, and then either have the harmonic dampener machined to a 40 tooth arrangement, or try to add one of the AA tone rings in there somehow... Not sure how feasible either would be to fit, but I'm thinking it would be easy enough to drill/tap the casting, or weld a boss onto it for a stock style VSS.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:41 AM   #6493 (permalink)
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A common problem with searching was that people would say they bought the stuff but haven't actually ran it yet to see if the clutch actually functions correctly. Then they never update to say if it does or doesn't.
Yeah.
With that combo of parts, it all bolted up correctly. With the transmission in gear I was unable to turn the tail shaft (stuck a 32 spline yoke on the end) engaged the clutch and was able to turn the tail shaft.

I know that with the AA bell housing I now need a new clutch pressure plate. Based on the Centerforce number AA provided I need a 69-79 GMC 11". Looks like its a taller pressure plate.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:17 AM   #6494 (permalink)
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This combination has been installed for 9 years and 50k miles without issue.
2001 TJ
2006 5.3L LM7
2001 Dodge NV4500 with a 10 spline GM input shaft
Advance Adapters bell housing 712576 (not ideal because it doesn't have the top bellhousing bolt hole)
Pilot bearing adapter AA 716155
Pilot bearing Timken 57080
Pressure plate bolts ARP 2302202
Flywheel bolts ARP 3302802
Flywheel AA 711500M (Stock 6.0L is supposedly the same)
Clutch Kit LUK 04-049 11"
Throwout bearing Federal Mogul 614018 (same as supplied with LUK clutch)
Clutch master cylinder 1987-1990 YJ
Clutch slave cylinder 1975-1980 Land Cruiser
Clutch Fork 1975-1984 C10 truck with the 4.1L engine AA 716176
Clutch Fork pivot ball AA 716180

Atlas 4 speed
For the VSS I made a 40 tooth tone ring that pressed onto the backside of the rear output yoke on the transfer case. The sensor is from a late 80s Chevy truck. With a manual transmission the computer doesn't care how fast the vehicle is actually going, it only uses the VSS to keep the engine from stalling when stopping/shifting.

Probably not a lot of relevance to your application, but it might help someone else in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyComanche View Post
Can I get some input on flywheel/clutch options for an 04 5.3 (short crank) to an older (92~) NV4500 with the external slave?

It appears the Sachs NFW1050 or the AMS 167577 is the flywheel to use, which is the flywheel with the built in spacer for 01+ 6L trucks.

From there is seems you can either pull the dowels and use the clutch kit for that year transmission, IE a Luk 04-163 or 04163, and you may have to enlarge the mounting holes. Or you can possibly use the later clutch kit for the 6L, such as Luk 04-201 or 04201 and NOT pull the dowels, which should bolt up tickity-boo as it is the clutch that goes with this flywheel.

Which choice have you used, and did it actually work? I'm concerned the newer style clutch will not play with the external slave cylinder, but would rather use it as it is meant to go with that flywheel.

And what slave cylinder did you use? I'd assume the one for that year transmission, IE a Luk LSC118?

I think the pilot bearing I need is P/N CT1082. Confirm?


I do not want to convert to an internal slave, and searching produced a lot of conflicting info. It sounds like pulling the dowels and using the clutch that goes with that transmission is the safest bet, but yeah, what did ya'll do?
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyComanche View Post
Another quick question.

Part of the reason I decided to go with a NV4500 is I thought it would be simpler as I had been told I wouldn't need a VSS. While that is correct, reading about it clearly indicates that I want a VSS since this is for a daily driver type vehicle.

Has anyone used an axle mounted VSS? I have a Dodge D70u and a Dodge AAM 11.5 as my two rear axle options, both have a tone ring/VSS in them. I'm assuming with HP Tuners I can correct for whatever output the Dodge style VSS produces, or is that not going to work?

I don't see any VSS kits for the NV4500, only generic ones that go in the tailhousing of a tcase or on an output yoke, which is the route I'd go if the axle one won't work.
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Old 01-01-2018, 09:22 PM   #6495 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACRay View Post
I went with closest to level that would fit without having to bash the tub in
I was able to go with the flattest position by adjusting the spacer that I used. How much clearance did you end up with at the closest point?
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Old 01-01-2018, 09:32 PM   #6496 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Lsbluejeep View Post
My LS project is coming along
Lookin good!
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Old 01-01-2018, 09:48 PM   #6497 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Navydivedoc View Post
Thanks ACray. I'm not particularly worried about the driveshafts, I do have a good local shop that can shorten or lengthen as needed. I'm mostly just surprised how little talk there is of where everything ends up. I've decided to just join the club and get a pre-built radiator and electric fan combo from Novak or Ron davis. There seems to be very little issue with those, and they are by far more common. Thanks for the input.
I decided to go with a conversion radiator and electric fan from Superior Radiator. Much better price point than Novak, even though many of the conversion parts I have purchased came from them...
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Old 01-02-2018, 09:51 AM   #6498 (permalink)
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I found the fan from superior to be ineffective to keeping my stock 5.3 cool in hot weather. The drain on the radiator also leaked.

I have since switched to a flexalite which is far superior in quality then superior lol.
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Old 01-02-2018, 11:45 AM   #6499 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cheapthrillb2 View Post
I found the fan from superior to be ineffective to keeping my stock 5.3 cool in hot weather. The drain on the radiator also leaked.

I have since switched to a flexalite which is far superior in quality then superior lol.
Thatís a bummer to hear the poor review! I hope that I have better luck...
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Old 01-03-2018, 04:21 PM   #6500 (permalink)
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Hey guys,

would only swapping injectors cause my Jeep not to start? I recently swapped from an ebay aluminum intake for a LS6 intake. The injectors swapped from the truck injectors to the stock LS6 injectors. I got some adapters to adapt the ev6 to ev1 harness.

My computer is also not giving me any codes so that's a little weird.

I'm also thinking of switching my 99 XJ out for a <93. There are some things on my 99 that I wish i took care of before I put the engine in and I really don't want to pull it again. I'd be able to register it as a classic and not have to worry about SMOG which is a plus.
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