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Old 07-22-2018, 07:39 PM   #6626 (permalink)
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The rears were deleted with the tune.. They are also new. Even though the ones I had in there were throwing the same code..
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Old 07-23-2018, 05:45 AM   #6627 (permalink)
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I would be looking into the MAF and o2 sensor placement.
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Old 07-23-2018, 11:13 PM   #6628 (permalink)
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Resistor inline with alternator

So I killed 2 batteries now and had the alternator bench tested 4 times. I just learned that there's "supposed" to be some kind of resistor inline to the alternator, and it's not a problem on the '05 GTO the LS2 came out of b/c the instrument cluster has the resistor built-in. But since I don't have that idiot light nor the cluster, I need to wire one inline meself. I really don't understand this electrical shit. I called Current Performance today (whom I bought the brand new harness from) and they said that it can be "programmed" out. Is this true? My tuner guy said that he never heard of it being programmable.

I have no idea what exactly I'm supposed to do, what wire I need to splice, where to find a 470 ohm resistor, where the wire should actually be re-routed to, or if this should be "programmed" out of my ECU instead I really don't understand what the problem is either.
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:28 AM   #6629 (permalink)
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I really don't understand what the problem is either.
How high is the voltage getting during charging? Or is it not charging?
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:26 AM   #6630 (permalink)
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How high is the voltage getting during charging? Or is it not charging?
Sometimes it's charging to 14V but when it died on the trail this Sat it progressively went down to 11, then 10, then 8, until it finally died. After I got it off the trail it's back to charging 12-14V. I don't have anything on that's a drain and I went through all the wiring on this thing, so I know there's nothing loose or messy. Every aftermarket accessory goes to it's own dedicated fuse in a new fuse block I installed and all the grounds go to a dedicated ground block I installed under the hood.
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Old 07-24-2018, 10:06 AM   #6631 (permalink)
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So I killed 2 batteries now and had the alternator bench tested 4 times. I just learned that there's "supposed" to be some kind of resistor inline to the alternator, and it's not a problem on the '05 GTO the LS2 came out of b/c the instrument cluster has the resistor built-in. But since I don't have that idiot light nor the cluster, I need to wire one inline meself. I really don't understand this electrical shit. I called Current Performance today (whom I bought the brand new harness from) and they said that it can be "programmed" out. Is this true? My tuner guy said that he never heard of it being programmable.

I have no idea what exactly I'm supposed to do, what wire I need to splice, where to find a 470 ohm resistor, where the wire should actually be re-routed to, or if this should be "programmed" out of my ECU instead I really don't understand what the problem is either.

Does your harness even have a plug for the alternator? If no, there is nothing in the computer to change that would effect the alternator - there's no Bluetooth option.

You need to run the L term to the charge lamp. This is where some forego the lamp for a resistor. Or get a single wire alternator

EDIT: My bad, it's the 04 GTO that isn't. 05-06 is controlled by the PCM. Lamp and field. So there should be two wires going into the harness from the alternator...
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Old 07-24-2018, 12:36 PM   #6632 (permalink)
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When i LSx swapped my BMW, i had to wire that single alternator plug wire straight to the gauge cluster's alternator light, as Wayne is suggesting above. Its been a while, so i believe i have this right, but correct me if i am wrong.

Picture a light bulb. In most cases, the gauge cluster powers one leg of the bulb with 12v+. The other leg of the light goes to the alternator wire, a.k.a. the "field wire" or "activation wire". A good alternator will send 12V+ through this leg, which is essentially "cancelled out" by the 12V on the other side of the bulb, and leaves the bulb unlit. As the alternator fails, it creates a ground, which illuminates the dash light.
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Old 07-24-2018, 01:57 PM   #6633 (permalink)
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The harness came with a 4-pin connector with 3 wires connected in it, and a 2-pin pigtail that plugs into my stock alternator for that motor. Apparently the 4-pin connector is for the Corvette alternator and the 2-pin is for the GTO alternator. I emailed the guys at Current Performance about it and am awaiting a reply. One guy that I talked to yesterday said that I need to rewire the orange wire with a resistor inline and connect that to switch power, but I would have thought that they already have one of the 3 wires going to the switch power they already had me connect for the harness. Doesn't the ECU control & regulate the alternator and need some kind of signal/voltage back to know when to switch it on?
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Old 07-24-2018, 02:14 PM   #6634 (permalink)
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Here's the entire charging schematic for an 05 GTO. OEM didn't have any resistor going to the key and it worked great.

EDIT: not able to post a picture for some reason. Website keeps failing on upload
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Old 07-24-2018, 04:46 PM   #6635 (permalink)
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Resistor inline with alternator

RJG,
Have you checked the fusible link?

-CR
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Old 07-24-2018, 11:26 PM   #6636 (permalink)
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So Current Performance is saying that the 2 wires go to the ECU, which I'm assuming is stock wiring for the 2-pin alternator. Therefore, there is no fusable link in the alternator wiring. They also said that the 3rd wire goes to switch power for the 3-ping Corvette alternator. Should I ditch the GTO alternator and get the 3-pin Corvette alternator? My tuner guy said that I'm tuned as a 2005 GTO and he didn't see any alternator options for tuning.

I feel more confused than when I started
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:05 AM   #6637 (permalink)
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The alt has 2 connection points, the pigtail and a post on the back of the alt that goes to the + batt terminal. This wire has the fusible link near the battery. Is this what you have wired?
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Old 07-25-2018, 06:14 AM   #6638 (permalink)
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The alt has 2 connection points, the pigtail and a post on the back of the alt that goes to the + batt terminal. This wire has the fusible link near the battery. Is this what you have wired?
That thick wire on the back of the alternator has a fusible link in it? Hmm. I'll have to check, but I wouldn't have thought to look for a fuse there. I'm using the stock wiring that came out of the GTO for the battery terminal connections since that fit so well and it appeared to be in great shape. I'm on-travel the next couple days, but I'll take a look at that wire when I get home to see if there is indeed a fuse in that wire. I thought for sure it just went straight to the battery.
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:46 AM   #6639 (permalink)
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The third wire is the sense wire, and it needs to be hot at all times, from the battery. If you have a three wire alternator, you need this wire. If you have a two wire alternator, you do not.
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Old 07-25-2018, 10:14 AM   #6640 (permalink)
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Does all this have to do with the GM "smart charging"?

Or can someone explain the "smart charging" to me?
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Old 07-25-2018, 12:19 PM   #6641 (permalink)
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Does all this have to do with the GM "smart charging"?

Or can someone explain the "smart charging" to me?
Here's how it works. I've broken it up into sections to help with reading...

The generator provides voltage to operate the vehicle's electrical system and to charge its battery. A magnetic field is created when current flows through the rotor. This field rotates as the rotor is driven by the engine, creating an AC voltage in the stator windings. The AC voltage is converted to DC by the rectifier bridge and is supplied to the electrical system at the battery terminal.

When the engine is running, the generator turn–on signal (L terminal) is sent to the generator from the ECM, turning on the regulator. The generator's voltage regulator controls current to the rotor, thereby controlling the output voltage. The rotor current is proportional to the electrical pulse width supplied by the regulator. When the engine is started, the regulator senses generator rotation by detecting AC voltage at the stator through an internal wire. Once the engine is running, the regulator varies the field current by controlling the pulse width. This regulates the generator output voltage for proper battery charging and electrical system operation.

The generator F terminal is connected internally to the voltage regulator and externally to the ECM. When the voltage regulator detects a charging system problem, it grounds this circuit to signal the ECM that a problem exists. The ECM monitors the generator field duty cycle signal circuit.

The system voltage sense circuit receives B+ voltage that is Hot At All Times from the underhood junction block. This voltage is used by the regulator as the reference for system voltage control. The Sense circuit must be operating correctly for the charging system to operate correctly.
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Old 07-25-2018, 11:30 PM   #6642 (permalink)
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Here's how it works. I've broken it up into sections to help with reading...
Thank you very much for that, I actually understood it.
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Old 07-26-2018, 10:58 AM   #6643 (permalink)
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Mind blown! That is more information than I ever expected. On behalf of all who are looking at this thread and getting unbelievable tech from experts like yourself Wayne...THANK YOU!

However...I'm still a little confused on what to do to fix my issue. Should there really be a fuse in the line going directly to battery? Should that 3rd unused wire be connected to constant 12V power and hot all the time even though my alternator is a 2-pin alternator? Is this 3rd (unused in my case) wire the "field wire" or "activation wire" that should have power all the time? I'm wondering that what's missing in my case is the signal from the ECM on the left terminal to turn on the generator in the alternator. Should I get a test light or something in there to see if this signal is actually being sent?

Thank you all for your insight and help on this. I can't tell you enough how much I appreciate all the info you guys give me on this stuff. I'm so dumb when it comes to electrical.


Edit: So I was able to actaully get to my geap today and do some troubleshooting. My code reader spit out a P06050 code saying "Malfunction Indicator Light Control Circuit" so I checked the idiot light I wired in and realized I misread Current Performance's wiring diagram. The wire coming out of their harness is the ground wire and the other wire on the bulb is constant power. I had it wired up the other way around and instead of the non-harness wire on the bulb going to constant power, I had it going to a ground. So I think it was grounded all the time, maybe? Even so, would that really have caused my alternator/charging issue?
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:43 PM   #6644 (permalink)
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GM Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor

Where has everyone installed theirs? I drilled a whole in the top of my TJ tank and plugged in the sensor. I am getting faint fuel odor and I think that is where it is coming from.

Any Suggestions on sealing that up? I put Fuel resistant RTV on it.

Did anyone put it in the top of the fuel pump assembly?
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:43 PM   #6645 (permalink)
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1 Year Running

I'm just over a year in on my swap, with a little over 10,800 miles on it. Passed emissions inspection last December (OBDII), thought I would share some of the parts used.

'97 Wrangler with 2.5L/AX5

-LH6 5.3/4L60E from 2007 Saab 9-7x (think Trailblazer/Envoy mid-size SUV)
-Swapped the SUV oil pan and accessory bracket to truck parts (unknown years), power steering pump from 2011 Tahoe (may be the same as truck), accessory drive belt for 2011 Tahoe.
-Used all emissions components from the Saab, evap sensors, evap canister, fuel pump (integrated fuel tank pressure sensor), purge solenoid, etc..
-Novak motor mounts, trans/transfer case adapter, headers, transfer case shifter, and tach emulator. Never got the tach to work.
-Reused the 2.5L power steering lines
-Superior radiator with electric fan (works great on the street, couldn't say on the trails), handles the Central Texas heat well so far. Used the factory upper radiator hose, cut to fit. Found a lower hose that works, it leaks some to where I have to top off the radiator every few months, need to find another that fits better.
-Generic stainless coolant overflow off Amazon
-Reused the air intake from the Saab, added k&n conical filter
-Tapped the oil block off cover on the side of the oil pan for the the Jeep sensor
-Installed a t-fitting in the heater line for the coolant temp sensor. Didn't work until I replaced the heater core, it was apparently blocked pretty bad. I still wish I had attempted to tap the passenger head.
-Used the GM fuel pump as mentioned earlier, it still has the GM sending unit. Full tank now reads about 7/8 on the gauge and empty is, well, empty. The low fuel light comes on with about 1-2 gallons left in the tank.
-I started with the engine side motor mount plates on the farthest back setting, but ended up using the middle setting since I was using the electric fan.
-Used 150tunes for the harness and tune.
-Running y-pine from the headers to single pipe, single cat with two O2 sensors to keep that side of it happy, with magnaflow muffler. It's not loud at idle, has a nice rumble, but makes some noise when it's wide open.
-Lokar 16" shifter

Those are the bigger items I can think of. It seems so simple with that short list, but as most of you know, there are a lot of odds and ends to make it all work. Thanks again to everyone for the contributions, I read this thread twice over the five months the Jeep was down, picked up on a lot of things I missed the first time around that didn't make sense or I didn't think would pertain to my swap.

The Jeep runs well. My biggest issue (so far, knock on wood) that I need to look into further at some point is a stumble/sputter when I put it in gear. Almost like a limp mode, sometimes even a dead pedal. Once it shifts a couple of times the engine starts to run like normal and doesn't do it again until it's put in park again. I would say it occurs about 85% of the time. For instance, I have about an 1/8 mile from my driveway to the end of my street, by the time I make my turn onto the next street it's good to go. I adjusted the linkage a couple of times thinking that might have had something to do with it. Also took it to the shop that rebuilt the trans, they couldn't find anything wrong with the trans itself. I wish I wrote down the codes they told me, there was one for the PNP switch, one for high line pressure, and one for something else. I haven't dug into it too much other than that since the Jeep is my daily driver for now, I'll reach out to Wayne when I'm back to driving my pickup to see if he's heard of anything similar. I'm all ears if anyone else has had a similar experience though.

One last note on mileage for anyone curious. I'm running 4.11/4.10 gears with 255/75/17 JK take-offs, averaging 14.24 mpg. I get mid-15's straight highway, the highest recorded being 15.96 mpg.

Scott

Last edited by sr1209; 08-01-2018 at 06:53 PM. Reason: Typo on mileage.
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:56 AM   #6646 (permalink)
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Completing this swap in my 92 jeep yj. Does anyone know what wire need to be connected to the range selector on my 4l60e for the revers lights to work? Does it come out of the bulkhead connector?
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:38 AM   #6647 (permalink)
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Completing this swap in my 92 jeep yj. Does anyone know what wire need to be connected to the range selector on my 4l60e for the revers lights to work? Does it come out of the bulkhead connector?
Anyone?
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:56 AM   #6648 (permalink)
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It's in the switch on the side. The park neutral position switch
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:18 AM   #6649 (permalink)
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It's in the switch on the side. The park neutral position switch
Ok So I understand the range selector/PN switch will provide the signal but I am not sure how to connect it to my existing yj harness. I no longer have the engine and transmission from the yj and have completely removed the engine harness and only kept the interior circuits and headlight taillight stuff. I have heard it could be in position c6 of the bulkhead connector but Im not sure how to wire it. Also old trans was a stick not sure if that matters

Last edited by HankScorpi0; 08-09-2018 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 08-09-2018, 04:59 PM   #6650 (permalink)
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Does anyone know where this harness plugs in? It definitely has the fuel pump wiring and NSS connector in it but I cant find where it was plugged into.



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