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Old 03-20-2019, 10:30 AM   #6726 (permalink)
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Thank you for the reply.

I am going to install them by tapping into the purge line near the tank. I donít think there should be a problem and I donít need to drill holes in the tank or sender.
I actually have my old tank with the sensor in it all sealed up, that I would sell and ship to you if you wanted. Its a 97-02 tank.
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Old 03-20-2019, 01:02 PM   #6727 (permalink)
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Thank you, I appreciate the offer! However, I am Jusing an 04 tank because the regulator is in the tank and it has the higher PSI pump.
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Old 04-09-2019, 05:24 PM   #6728 (permalink)
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Which fuel line fitting are you guys using when connecting the line to the 05-06 TJ fuel pump? Iím installing 3/8 braided line and the fitting Iím trying to use is a Performance World -6AN to Female 3/8Ē EFI part number 640853.

It looks like it should push right onto the TJ fuel pump outlet but when I attempt to install it, it pushes on right up until it hits to O-ring seals. Iíve tried greasing the O-rings but it doesnít help.
I measured the fitting against the FP output and the fitting is about .005 larger diameter.
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Old 04-09-2019, 05:31 PM   #6729 (permalink)
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I picked up one of these badass compressors today and I'm looking for ideas where to put it. Anybody else have one in the engine compartment with a LS? I'm thinking right above the intake is my only option......
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Old 04-09-2019, 06:52 PM   #6730 (permalink)
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I picked up one of these badass compressors today and I'm looking for ideas where to put it. Anybody else have one in the engine compartment with a LS? I'm thinking right above the intake is my only option......

How about slapping it in that big open space in the bottom right of the pic. Right on the inner fender well.

Intake is already sucking enough heat from the engine, why put something else that generates heat right next to it.
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Old 04-12-2019, 10:30 PM   #6731 (permalink)
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Who's used a built stage 2 or stage 3 4l60e from Novak? Anyone?
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Old 04-14-2019, 03:06 PM   #6732 (permalink)
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I did an L33 and 4L60E with a D300 into my YJ.

Originally used a Dakota Digital 8K pulse VSS onto the D300... and it sucks.

I used a 27 spline input into the D300 and a factory NP208 adapter with a clocking ring.

Anyone used one of these kits in a factory trans?

https://jagsthatrun.com/products/par...ing-relocation

https://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...-output-shaft/

I'd really like to get more consistent shifts by getting rid of the 8K pulse conversion for the VSS.

I'd use the Dakaota Digital sender to feed the factory YJ speedo.

Am I over thinking this?

Any tips for a VSS in the trans tail housing?

I really don't want to have to redo t-case mounts or driveshafts.
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Old 04-14-2019, 05:29 PM   #6733 (permalink)
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I have a really basic question. Installing a LS3 with the E38. Does the E38 need to be grounded in it's mounting? Was thinking about mounting it on some rubber isolaters just to cut down on the vibes it will see. That's when I thought it might need to be grounded through it's mounting.
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Old 05-06-2019, 11:03 AM   #6734 (permalink)
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I had the jeep out for the weekend. Towed through a torrential down pour. When i went to start it up it didn't want to light. It finally did with a miss. No check engine lights and it got better as the weekend went on with some portions having no miss at all.

This all kinda started one night when I pulled some McGuyver shit in my barn. Buddy's o-rings on his expeditions fuel injector shit the bed. I pulled my fuel rail and stone one off my motor. Best part on his ford is my chevy o ring. Well when i finally got it back together a couple months later it had an immediate miss. I worked with the FI connection and it cleaned up or so I thought. Well it has come back with a vengeance.

Originally i was thinking the ECM got wet, or something else got wet, but i've never had a problem with water. Now i'm thinking the injector is plugged or partially plugged or ? If anyone has any thoughts let me know.

ITS NOT THROWING ANY CODES
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:23 PM   #6735 (permalink)
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I have a really basic question. Installing a LS3 with the E38. Does the E38 need to be grounded in it's mounting? Was thinking about mounting it on some rubber isolaters just to cut down on the vibes it will see. That's when I thought it might need to be grounded through it's mounting.
I have an E38 with an LS3 and mine isn't grounded. The harness is, but not the ECU itself.
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Old 05-14-2019, 07:13 AM   #6736 (permalink)
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I had the jeep out for the weekend. Towed through a torrential down pour. When i went to start it up it didn't want to light. It finally did with a miss. No check engine lights and it got better as the weekend went on with some portions having no miss at all.

This all kinda started one night when I pulled some McGuyver shit in my barn. Buddy's o-rings on his expeditions fuel injector shit the bed. I pulled my fuel rail and stone one off my motor. Best part on his ford is my chevy o ring. Well when i finally got it back together a couple months later it had an immediate miss. I worked with the FI connection and it cleaned up or so I thought. Well it has come back with a vengeance.

Originally i was thinking the ECM got wet, or something else got wet, but i've never had a problem with water. Now i'm thinking the injector is plugged or partially plugged or ? If anyone has any thoughts let me know.


ITS NOT THROWING ANY CODES


For Anyone following, i replaced a few injectors and she seems to be running good again. I started pulling injector plugs one by one while running, waiting for a change in sound. I swapped a few coil packs around to ensure i was getting spark. The main culprit was a dirty injector on the bank i didn't remove to steal orings. Who would have thought.



EDIT: I threw a new set of plugs in, and it cleaned up like a brand new one. AS of not it is running great. NGK for the win.
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Last edited by yjwrangler95; 05-17-2019 at 06:29 AM.
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Old 05-31-2019, 02:02 PM   #6737 (permalink)
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Does anyone know of a good write up for the wire harness mods that need to be made to run a 5.3 in my TJ.

Also is the Novak radiator the best option, is there anything less
Expensive that can be used?
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Old 06-04-2019, 07:15 AM   #6738 (permalink)
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I dont know of any specific write up unfortunately. Even if there is, the harness you need depends on your setup. I would spend a bit of time on LT1swap.com and this thread. Both should answer all your questions about your wiring harness needs. Guys like Wayne @ 150swaps sells premade stripped down engine harnesses for VERY affordable prices. That will save you hours. From there, what you need from the TJ harness is up to what functionality you want to retain. For me, i wanted to keep the PCM/BCM for the most part to reuse the factory gauges. I removed the TJ harness and stripped all the engine wiring out of it, save for a new sensors i wanted to adapt onto the LS (oil pressure, coolant temp). I also kept the cam and crank sensor wiring around so i could utilize the Novak module so retain the factory tach. I also left the gas tank wiring, the trans wiring, etc. I combined my stripped LS harness and the TJ harness, made my own fuse boxes for the engine side of things and added two relays for the LS PCM and fuel pump. It takes a lot of research and planning to decide which way you want to go, but starting from an already stripped harness is a very good place to start.

I used a TJ V8 swap radiator from eBay. It works sweet and was like 100 bucks.
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:07 AM   #6739 (permalink)
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Guys like Wayne @ 150swaps sells premade stripped down engine harnesses for VERY affordable prices. That will save you hours.
Thanks for the plug They are pretty sexy, if I do say so myself!
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:16 AM   #6740 (permalink)
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You can also go insane like me and do a factory like integration.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing


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Old 06-04-2019, 07:52 PM   #6741 (permalink)
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You can also go insane like me and do a factory like integration.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

I gotta check that spread sheet out on a computer, but does that mean you are only using the Lj harness and everything linked together.

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Originally Posted by waynehartwig View Post
Thanks for the plug They are pretty sexy, if I do say so myself!

Do you still offer the modification service? Your website said you are no longer doing so to focus on making new harnesses.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AHenry014 View Post
I dont know of any specific write up unfortunately. Even if there is, the harness you need depends on your setup. I would spend a bit of time on LT1swap.com and this thread. Both should answer all your questions about your wiring harness needs. Guys like Wayne @ 150swaps sells premade stripped down engine harnesses for VERY affordable prices. That will save you hours. From there, what you need from the TJ harness is up to what functionality you want to retain. For me, i wanted to keep the PCM/BCM for the most part to reuse the factory gauges. I removed the TJ harness and stripped all the engine wiring out of it, save for a new sensors i wanted to adapt onto the LS (oil pressure, coolant temp). I also kept the cam and crank sensor wiring around so i could utilize the Novak module so retain the factory tach. I also left the gas tank wiring, the trans wiring, etc. I combined my stripped LS harness and the TJ harness, made my own fuse boxes for the engine side of things and added two relays for the LS PCM and fuel pump. It takes a lot of research and planning to decide which way you want to go, but starting from an already stripped harness is a very good place to start.

I used a TJ V8 swap radiator from eBay. It works sweet and was like 100 bucks.

Thanks. Since I posted this I have been non stop on lt1swap.com watching videos and taking in info.

The biggest concern of mine is what can I delete from the stock jeep harness (Iím assuming injector and distributor wiring and stock trans wiring among others) and which wires I will need to tap into to make work.

Iím glad you are happy with the eBay rad, I currently have one in my Jeep and love it so was thinking of going that route.

Is there an alternative to the Novak sim box, something from Dakota digital? Iím trying to read through this thread but it is insanely long.
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:09 PM   #6742 (permalink)
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I gotta check that spread sheet out on a computer, but does that mean you are only using the Lj harness and everything linked together.
Yes. I reworked the dash/body side harness a bit to add extra power wires(2 more cylinders) and reused the 4.0L engine harness connectors to connect it.
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Old 06-04-2019, 10:48 PM   #6743 (permalink)
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Yes. I reworked the dash/body side harness a bit to add extra power wires(2 more cylinders) and reused the 4.0L engine harness connectors to connect it.
Which ECU are you running?
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Old 06-05-2019, 01:47 AM   #6744 (permalink)
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Which ECU are you running?
Generation 4 E38 that came with the 2011 L99 Camaro engine.
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Old 06-05-2019, 08:59 AM   #6745 (permalink)
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Generation 4 E38 that came with the 2011 L99 Camaro engine.
But are you running the Jeep ecu as well, to run the gauges?
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Old 06-05-2019, 12:05 PM   #6746 (permalink)
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But are you running the Jeep ecu as well, to run the gauges?
Of you want to keep your TJ gauges yes you need to keep your factory ECU and wiring/sensors (water, oil, fuel tank sending unit) hooked up to the new engine block<>so the original ECU can read those values and send it to your factory gauges.. The LSX ECU will still need to use its factory sensors in order to control/monitor the whole system.
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Old 06-05-2019, 10:47 PM   #6747 (permalink)
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But are you running the Jeep ecu as well, to run the gauges?
No Jeep PCM in mine, I tossed it in the good parts pile. I am using some electronics and firmware I made to convert GM LAN to Chrysler PCI bus.
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Old 06-06-2019, 11:59 AM   #6748 (permalink)
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No Jeep PCM in mine, I tossed it in the good parts pile. I am using some electronics and firmware I made to convert GM LAN to Chrysler PCI bus.
Thatís amazing. I wish I had the knowledge to do a swap like that. When I first decided to start the swap, I figured the way you did it was the way most people would have.
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Old 06-06-2019, 02:35 PM   #6749 (permalink)
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I did an L33 and 4L60E with a D300 into my YJ.

Originally used a Dakota Digital 8K pulse VSS onto the D300... and it sucks.

I used a 27 spline input into the D300 and a factory NP208 adapter with a clocking ring.

Anyone used one of these kits in a factory trans?

https://jagsthatrun.com/products/par...ing-relocation

https://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...-output-shaft/

I'd really like to get more consistent shifts by getting rid of the 8K pulse conversion for the VSS.

I'd use the Dakaota Digital sender to feed the factory YJ speedo.

Am I over thinking this?

Any tips for a VSS in the trans tail housing?

I really don't want to have to redo t-case mounts or driveshafts.
Bueller?
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Old 06-10-2019, 03:32 PM   #6750 (permalink)
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I'm no longer modifying OEM harnesses to focus on my new ones. They are a million times nicer than those 20 years old junky OEM harnesses. I am biased, but they are truly a work of art!
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