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Old 09-15-2019, 05:17 PM   #6776 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by XJUSA View Post
Well, after finishing the last steps of my swap, I think, I have some serious grounding issues.
With no sparks I was checking the coil connectors [Pin A]. No ground connection to left side engine ground band or to engine block, which has been grounded to frame, body and battery.
[B, C, D pins are ok ]



So my question is, where is the location to get the coils properly grounded on pin A ? The wiring diagram mentions left side engine ground only. ????


[5.3L 2003, stock harness, stock under the hood fuse block, wiring according lt1swap.com]

Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.


.
Are you using a modified stock harness or purpose built one? My harness from PSI only had one chassis ground.

Last edited by HankScorpi0; 09-15-2019 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:43 PM   #6777 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HankScorpi0 View Post
Are you using a modified stock harness or purpose built one? My harness from PSI only had one chassis ground.
I'm using the stock harness that came with the engine. No modifications, except the the ones described on lt1swap.com 2003-2007 FUSE BLOCKS and HARNESSES

Don't know if the coil packs, headers, intake, etc, need to be grounded in addition to the engine block.

It should be sufficient to have the engine block grounded, as there should be a direct connection.



I could wire ground to the two coil pack connectors. [or the coil bank needs to be grounded]




But I would prefer as it should be.



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Old 09-17-2019, 05:39 AM   #6778 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJUSA View Post
Well, after finishing the last steps of my swap, I think, I have some serious grounding issues.
With no sparks I was checking the coil connectors [Pin A]. No ground connection to left side engine ground band or to engine block, which has been grounded to frame, body and battery.
[B, C, D pins are ok ]



So my question is, where is the location to get the coils properly grounded on pin A ? The wiring diagram mentions left side engine ground only. ????


[5.3L 2003, stock harness, stock under the hood fuse block, wiring according lt1swap.com]

Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.


.
I believe it ties into the ground that is intended to go next to the oil pressure sensor. From what I remember, all black grounds are tied together at various points in the factory harness and then to the block. Then the block to the battery neg. How far back from the coils did you probe/trace? Did you try running a jumper and then checking?
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Old 09-17-2019, 09:08 PM   #6779 (permalink)
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I believe it ties into the ground that is intended to go next to the oil pressure sensor. From what I remember, all black grounds are tied together at various points in the factory harness and then to the block. Then the block to the battery neg. How far back from the coils did you probe/trace? Did you try running a jumper and then checking?
The harness is still in its stock tubing and I did not open it yet. I will dig into this deeper on the weekend and follow the ground cables. They must have become disconnected from the behind the block ground strap somehow. Will check pin 1 and 40 on C1 and C2 connectors.
The under the hood fuse block is not extra grounded, but the relays must get ground somehow. Perhaps I will find a 'free' location in order to ground it.



Let's see what comes next.



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Old 09-21-2019, 06:04 PM   #6780 (permalink)
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Update: Getting sparks after grounding the coils separately, tries to run, however, sparking stops after 2-3 sparks.
All ground pin at C1 and C2 have ground
Also any DBW gas pedal movement stops, throttle intake is closing.
VATS was disabled when the PCM programming was done. [Need to ask programmer to confirm though]
No error codes.

Any idea why the PCM goes into some sort of 'safe mode' ?
What is the most likely reason if not VATS.



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Old 09-22-2019, 01:47 PM   #6781 (permalink)
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Found the culprit. IGN source from the under the hood Jeep fuse box is fluctuating.
It's fine when after key on at > 12V, but it's going down to 8V when cranking.
Battery still has >12V though. So something voltage related in the Jeep fuse box.
As soon PCM IGN wiring is hooked up to the battery directly engine starts, rough, but running.
Now I have to check why voltage in Jeep fuse box is getting low.

https://youtu.be/Cfcl4-Ve7yM






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Last edited by XJUSA; 09-22-2019 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 09-22-2019, 02:24 PM   #6782 (permalink)
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Good job man. Keep us posted... I'm about to start my LS swap and holding for yours to be finished

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Old 09-22-2019, 06:52 PM   #6783 (permalink)
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Why are you waiting for him? Afraid of what's needed, work involved or what?
As soon as my tranmission is back from the shop I'm all in.
I'm going cammed 5.3, 4L60E with billet 1800 stall converter, Atlas in a 98 TJ.
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Old 09-28-2019, 04:10 PM   #6784 (permalink)
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Fucking SKIM module is interfering with progress currently. The SKIM does not remember the original keys turning off gauges.
1. SKIM module signal light permanently on
2. no power on ignition cable to starter [clutch safety switch is bridged with 20A fuse in glove fuse box]
3. Jeep alternator not charging [assuming PCM shuts down or bad battery temp senor? ]
4. all gauges dead

Any one doing Jeep PCM programming here in order to turn off all that shit mentioned ?
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Old 09-30-2019, 02:45 AM   #6785 (permalink)
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Fucking SKIM module is interfering with progress currently. The SKIM does not remember the original keys turning off gauges.
1. SKIM module signal light permanently on
2. no power on ignition cable to starter [clutch safety switch is bridged with 20A fuse in glove fuse box]
3. Jeep alternator not charging [assuming PCM shuts down or bad battery temp senor? ]
4. all gauges dead

Any one doing Jeep PCM programming here in order to turn off all that shit mentioned ?
They claim to be able to do it: https://www.garretttuning.com/collec...te-programming
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Old 10-07-2019, 10:34 AM   #6786 (permalink)
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a torque converter? Iím building 4.8 with a small summit truck cam, part # SUM-8719. The trans is a 4L60e out of a 1998 Yukon. The trans was originally bolted up to a non-LS style engine. The trans has a 298mm input shaft. I have already figured out how to make it bolt up. I just need a recommendation on a converter that will work for the typical crawling/Johnson Valley type of wheeling I do.

Jeep is a YJ with links, coilovers, 14 bolt, Dana 60 front, 5.38 gears, NP231 transfer case. Iím using Holley terminator X for engine management. Engine is stock other than the cam and valve springs.

Thanks for any recommendations.
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Old 10-15-2019, 06:44 AM   #6787 (permalink)
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How is everyone running their exhaust/o2 sensors? Are o2 sensors needed with something like a holly terminator EFI setup? I've got mine "finished"; however, exhaust is cobbled together and I'm not currently running any o2 sensors. Seems to be running very rich at idle and leans out incredibly at higher RPM's. Stock fuel pump in a motobilt fuel cell out back. I'm questioning if it's AFR related.

Not sure if I need to redo my exhaust and add bungs for o2 sensors? I've heard some people run with no o2's and had great success. Others say it's impossible to run without them.

Once I can save up some cash I plan to go with the Holley setup but I'd like to see it running better in the mean time. If o2 sensors aren't needed I'd rather wait. Currently running a standalone harness with factory GM ECM. 99 TJ with 2003 GMC Sierra 5.3 LM7

Last edited by Cool Hand Luke; 10-15-2019 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:58 AM   #6788 (permalink)
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How is everyone running their exhaust/o2 sensors? Are o2 sensors needed with something like a holly terminator EFI setup? I've got mine "finished"; however, exhaust is cobbled together and I'm not currently running any o2 sensors. Seems to be running very rich at idle and leans out incredibly at higher RPM's. Stock fuel pump in a motobilt fuel cell out back. I'm questioning if it's AFR related.

Not sure if I need to redo my exhaust and add bungs for o2 sensors? I've heard some people run with no o2's and had great success. Others say it's impossible to run without them.

Once I can save up some cash I plan to go with the Holley setup but I'd like to see it running better in the mean time. If o2 sensors aren't needed I'd rather wait. Currently running a standalone harness with factory GM ECM. 99 TJ with 2003 GMC Sierra 5.3 LM7
The holly setup is ok but you can get her running a lot cheaper by getting 02 sensors right after the stock manifolds. Just get a tune to eliminate rear 02 post cat
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Old 10-15-2019, 01:46 PM   #6789 (permalink)
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The holly setup is ok but you can get her running a lot cheaper by getting 02 sensors right after the stock manifolds. Just get a tune to eliminate rear 02 post cat
I would have to modify my exhaust to accomodate a 2nd o2 sensor "upstream", run another $100 into o2 sensors, and spend $600 for a tune/dyno session locally. I'm $700 into this which is nearly the cost of the Holly setup which is self tuning, provides gauges (I don't have any wired up yet), and can make custom changes on the fly. Then when I start building the motor, or adding forced induction, I need another tune. Just want to get it running good before I start dialing stuff in.. Is there any flaws in my thinking?

Last edited by Cool Hand Luke; 10-15-2019 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 10-15-2019, 02:05 PM   #6790 (permalink)
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I would have to modify my exhaust, run another $100 into o2 sensors, and spend $600 for a tune/dyno session locally. I'm $700 into this which is nearly the cost of the Holly setup. Then when I start building the motor, or adding forced induction, I need another tune. Just want to get it running good before I start dialing stuff in..
How is it currently tuned? If youre on the factory PCM with VATS removed, i would check the codes to see what its looking for. It will tell you if they eliminated the rear o2 sensors or not. Yes, youll need to buy two sensors (or grab a used pair from a part out) but its an easy mod to get it running as intended for the time being.

If your end goal is to get to the holley setup, youll need at least one side with an o2 bung (or after it Y's) anyhow. It utilizes a wideband o2 for self tuning.

EDIT: how are you controlling fuel pressure? Do you have a MAF?
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Old 10-15-2019, 04:28 PM   #6791 (permalink)
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I would have to modify my exhaust to accomodate a 2nd o2 sensor "upstream", run another $100 into o2 sensors, and spend $600 for a tune/dyno session locally. I'm $700 into this which is nearly the cost of the Holly setup which is self tuning, provides gauges (I don't have any wired up yet), and can make custom changes on the fly. Then when I start building the motor, or adding forced induction, I need another tune. Just want to get it running good before I start dialing stuff in.. Is there any flaws in my thinking?
Yeah you don't need holly efi. The stock pcm can do it all I have a buddy who went the holly route in his ls swapped Malibu it's still a big learning curve for tuning.
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Old 10-20-2019, 11:16 PM   #6792 (permalink)
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Has anyone managed to get the stock tach to work on a TJ without an emulators, or has anyone built their own emulator? Some guy on Facebook claims to have done it, but I canít get the results to duplicate. Iíd rather not have to use an emulator if possible, and Iíd rather not have to buy one.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:39 AM   #6793 (permalink)
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Has anyone managed to get the stock tach to work on a TJ without an emulators, or has anyone built their own emulator? Some guy on Facebook claims to have done it, but I canít get the results to duplicate. Iíd rather not have to use an emulator if possible, and Iíd rather not have to buy one.
After conducting a TON of research into the subject, i went with the Novak emulator. You have three options:
1. Novak Module, 200 bucks i believe. If you go this route, make sure to ask Novak for instructions on how to program the PCM for their module.
2. Redline gauges. They disassemble your cluster and put "standard" tach guts in there. I was quoted something like 400 for that. This eliminates the need for an emulator.
3. Custom gauge set, autometer or the like, most expensive and obviously deletes the factory cluster.
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:45 AM   #6794 (permalink)
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After conducting a TON of research into the subject, i went with the Novak emulator. You have three options:
1. Novak Module, 200 bucks i believe. If you go this route, make sure to ask Novak for instructions on how to program the PCM for their module.
2. Redline gauges. They disassemble your cluster and put "standard" tach guts in there. I was quoted something like 400 for that. This eliminates the need for an emulator.
3. Custom gauge set, autometer or the like, most expensive and obviously deletes the factory cluster.
You forgot the Pre-millennial Pirate4x4 option of shifting when you hit the rev limiter and not worrying about what RPM your at.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:47 AM   #6795 (permalink)
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Yeah thatís all what Iíve heard /Thought, but this is what he is saying you have to do:


ďTACHOMETER:

And now for the info you came here for. First off, I cannot take full credit for this. Greg Byars was kind enough bounce a few messages back and forth with me with research he did, and in the end, it was a $0 working setup😁

First and foremost, you will need access to tuning software to make adjustments to your Tach Output settings on your GM ECM. What you need to change in you tach output settings (see photos) is the HIgh and Low resolutions. Some ECM's will have a "Pullup" or "No Pullup" Type option in addition to the Resolution. Set the Type (if applies) to "No Pullup", set you High Resolution to "1" and your Low Resolution to "1" (see photos). Flash this back to the ECM.

Next, you will need to locate your Tach Output wire on your GM ECM, it is a solid white wire on pin 10. (99-02 ECM tach wire is on the RED connector while 03-07 is on the GREEN connector. This applies to the 4.8/5.3/6.0 engines)

Then, on the BLACK connector on your Jeep ECM, you want to locate pin 8 (CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL). This is a GRAY wire with a BLACK STRIPE.

Then locate pin 18 (CMP SIGNAL). This is a TAN wire with a YELLOW STRIPE.

This is where things get stupid simple. Simply take Pins 8 and 18 of the Jeep ECM and connect them directly to pin 10 in the GM ECM. Congratulations, you now have a working Tachometer without the need for expensive converters / emulator boxes.

(Drops Mic) 🎤Ē
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Old 10-21-2019, 12:01 PM   #6796 (permalink)
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Has anyone managed to get the stock tach to work on a TJ without an emulators, or has anyone built their own emulator? Some guy on Facebook claims to have done it, but I canít get the results to duplicate. Iíd rather not have to use an emulator if possible, and Iíd rather not have to buy one.
I run the entire instrument cluster in my LJ off the Gen IV GM ECM in my swap and tossed the stock computer. It is not an emulator though.
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Old 10-21-2019, 12:09 PM   #6797 (permalink)
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I run the entire instrument cluster in my LJ off the Gen IV GM ECM in my swap and tossed the stock computer. It is not an emulator though.
I remember you were talking us about that. Ultimately that would be my goal but way beyond my skills right now.

Do you mind sharing what you did to get the tach to work? So I could atleast go that route.

Trying to stay away from the whole emulator thing.
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Old 10-21-2019, 12:37 PM   #6798 (permalink)
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Gotta pick some brains here if I may.....planning a swap on a YJ. Thinking about going with a GM NV3500 (NOT the Jeep 3550, a lot of the forum searches I have done manage to confuse the two) with a 5 bolt case flange, and a hybrid 231 transfer case, front half sourced from an older S10....as they are still dirt cheap in my area. Has anyone gone this route? My concern is the length....as I have never seen one closeup and have no frame of reference. Thanks in advance....
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Old 10-21-2019, 12:42 PM   #6799 (permalink)
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I remember you were talking us about that. Ultimately that would be my goal but way beyond my skills right now.

Do you mind sharing what you did to get the tach to work? So I could atleast go that route.

Trying to stay away from the whole emulator thing.
I made my own custom circuit board and wrote code for a microcontroller that translates all the messages from GMLAN to Chrysler PCI. It has taken me a while to accomplish this since there are no longer drop in transceiver chips for the PCI bus.

It is something I intend to sell as product in the future so I need to setup a vendor account here once I am back in the USA.
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Old 10-21-2019, 12:57 PM   #6800 (permalink)
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I made my own custom circuit board and wrote code for a microcontroller that translates all the messages from GMLAN to Chrysler PCI. It has taken me a while to accomplish this since there are no longer drop in transceiver chips for the PCI bus.

It is something I intend to sell as product in the future so I need to setup a vendor account here once I am back in the USA.
Thatís awesome. I canít wait and hope to be able to run it one day.
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