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Old 01-05-2009, 05:15 PM   #101 (permalink)
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More Fuel System Talk

Does anyone know if you need to use an external pressure regulator with the 5.3? I assume that the motor has a regulator of some kind on it, and the extra fuel goes into the return line, right? I was looking on Summit's website at the Mallory 4060FI pump's installation diagram. They show a regulator with a return in the diagram. If I did that I'd have two returns (one from the motor, one from the pump's regulator). Please set me strait...
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:42 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Does anyone know if you need to use an external pressure regulator with the 5.3? I assume that the motor has a regulator of some kind on it, and the extra fuel goes into the return line, right? I was looking on Summit's website at the Mallory 4060FI pump's installation diagram. They show a regulator with a return in the diagram. If I did that I'd have two returns (one from the motor, one from the pump's regulator). Please set me strait...
The way I understand it is 03 and older have a return line off the motor and a regulator on the fuel rail. 04 and up is returnless and needs an external regulator.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:51 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Here is a pan from http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm



It's a roadrace pan with 4 gates. It's setup to run as a remote oil filter.
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Old 01-05-2009, 05:59 PM   #104 (permalink)
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The way I understand it is 03 and older have a return line off the motor and a regulator on the fuel rail. 04 and up is returnless and needs an external regulator.
Roger That. My motor is from an '01 Yukon, so it has a return line on the fuel rail. I will plumb it up using the Mallory pump and hope for no exploding motors.
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Old 01-06-2009, 05:14 PM   #105 (permalink)
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What are you guys doing for exhaust? Any pics?
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Old 01-07-2009, 05:41 AM   #106 (permalink)
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I am using a pan from http://www.kevkoracing.com/wetsump_chevy.htm



It's a roadrace pan with 4 gates. It's setup to run as a remote oil filter.


how thick is the metal on this pan?? this is a good 3 inches shorter then my truck pan that i need to get rid of...im thinking maybe some 3/8 plate welded on the bottom might make a good skid just in case....also do you have any pics of your external mounted oil filter? did you have to change the pump style? show us some more info on this....
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Old 01-07-2009, 05:42 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Roger That. My motor is from an '01 Yukon, so it has a return line on the fuel rail. I will plumb it up using the Mallory pump and hope for no exploding motors.
my 02 silverado motor was hooked up with a fuel pump and the factory return line and nothing happened...you only need the regulator if you dont use the return line
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Old 01-07-2009, 05:50 PM   #108 (permalink)
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how thick is the metal on this pan?? this is a good 3 inches shorter then my truck pan that i need to get rid of...im thinking maybe some 3/8 plate welded on the bottom might make a good skid just in case....also do you have any pics of your external mounted oil filter? did you have to change the pump style? show us some more info on this....
It just sheet metal. No pump change as far as I know. The pan is pretty short.
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Old 01-07-2009, 07:35 PM   #109 (permalink)
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I don't know if any of you guys are running A/C, but I understand the compressor is in a bad spot near the passenger frame rail. Do you all just notch the framerail or does any one make a compressor relocation kit?
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Old 01-07-2009, 07:45 PM   #110 (permalink)
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I don't know if any of you guys are running A/C, but I understand the compressor is in a bad spot near the passenger frame rail. Do you all just notch the framerail or does any one make a compressor relocation kit?
Both. I've seen a bracket that relocates it to the top? of the motor on ebay. That's about all I know
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:04 PM   #111 (permalink)
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Both. I've seen a bracket that relocates it to the top? of the motor on ebay. That's about all I know
there are a couple threads on PBB where the builder had to notch the tj frame for the compressor, but on my yj, even after I moved the engine, etc. 1 inch to the right, there was plenty of room for the accessories.
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Old 01-07-2009, 09:50 PM   #112 (permalink)
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1953 CJ3a buggy with 5.3, 70r4 and Atlas II 3.8. Love it.
Thats exacty my drivetrain and I couldnt be happier I can fry of some rubber.
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Old 01-07-2009, 10:08 PM   #113 (permalink)
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What are you guys using for shifters with your autos?

I'm wondering if the TJ auto shifter will work with the 4l60e?
Lokar also makes a grear shifter my 700r4. Not like a art car whivh has a short handle.
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Old 01-08-2009, 07:07 PM   #114 (permalink)
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Talk to [email protected] on here.... He just swapped out pans for this reason and he'd know what the donor was...

Here's the info on the truck to LS1 oil pan swap-

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/...&postcount=478

Quote:
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I thought I'd post a follow-up on how the rig has been working, some of the issues I've had...

Engine oil pan- The engine oil pan is my Achilles Heel. The bottom of the pan is very low, matter of fact the bottom of the pan is level with the centerline of my front axle housing!! This is due to the low lift height (3" lift) and running the truck oil pan that came with the Chevy truck 5.3l motor. It's also aluminum, which is quite brittle. I have already scraped it a couple times (Including last weekend) and I have to be very cautious and mindful of where rocks end up when straddling them. I need to buy the parts for the Camaro oil pan which is shallower and then I need to build a beefy steel skidplate to add more protection for the engine and transmission oil pans.


Just updating this, I finally swapped out the truck oil pan for the LS1 or Camaro/Firebird oil pan. Overall I gained about 3.25" of ground clearance. The bottom of my oil pan is now much higher off the ground. Before it was 17" from flat ground to the bottom of my oil pan, now it's over 20". It may not sound like much, but it is. The engine oil pan is level with the transmission oil pan, and they both sit just above where the Belly skidplate is. Eventually I'm going to add a steel skidplate to protect the engine and transmission.


Kiel posted this on here first, so thanks to him here's the part numbers and approx. costs to swap on the LS1 oil pan. You can buy the parts from www.gmpartsdirect.com

12558251 - SCREEN
Part#: 12558251
Manufacturer Part#: 12558251
(Qty: 1 x $33.91)

12558253 - DEFLECTOR
Part#: 12558253
Manufacturer Part#: 12558253
(Qty: 1 x $17.83)

12558762 -1998-2003 Camaro/Firebird LS1 Oil Pan Pan
Part#: 12558762
Manufacturer Part#: 12558762
(Qty: 1 x $164.95)

12551577 - TUBE
Part#: 12551577
Manufacturer Part#: 12551577
(Qty: 1 x $7.04)

12551581 - INDICATOR
Part#: 12551581
Manufacturer Part#: 12551581
(Qty: 1 x $9.99)



I do have some exhaust work to do still, since the oil pan sump on the LS1 pan is a few inches further forward. My original exhaust isn't going to work, the crossover interferes with the oil pan. :sick:


Here's how it looks-








FYI... you will need to run the LS1 oil filter, the truck oil filter will not fit on the LS1 pan due to a different thread size.
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Last edited by [email protected]; 01-08-2009 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 01-09-2009, 02:39 PM   #115 (permalink)
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Here's the info on the truck to LS1 oil pan swap-

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/...&postcount=478
Just ordered all of that up for mine...

I also ordered:
O-ring for Oil pump pickup: 12557752

Shipping was very high in my opinion - $55. To do over, I'd print the list/pricing from GMDirect and take it into your local dealer and see if they will match the prices.
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Old 01-10-2009, 10:22 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Yep, the shipping was a bit much. I remember when I ordered mine that is was high. BTW, an o-ring comes with the new pick up.
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Old 01-10-2009, 03:01 PM   #117 (permalink)
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here are some pics of what i do for the fuel delivery.

this is for a TBI


this is for a 4.8L


here is how the 4.8L fits in an FJ 40. some what similar in space under the hood.





also a picture of the Lokar shifter
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:25 AM   #118 (permalink)
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Nice!

Do you have a regulator? Or is it in the rail and that's the return I see by the filter/pump?
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:28 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Nice!

Do you have a regulator? Or is it in the rail and that's the return I see by the filter/pump?
the engine/trans is an 02. it has the regulator built into the rail. the supply is 3/8 and the return is 5/16. the retrun goes from the rail to the tank.
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:59 PM   #120 (permalink)
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Does anyone know if you need to use an external pressure regulator with the 5.3? I assume that the motor has a regulator of some kind on it, and the extra fuel goes into the return line, right? I was looking on Summit's website at the Mallory 4060FI pump's installation diagram. They show a regulator with a return in the diagram. If I did that I'd have two returns (one from the motor, one from the pump's regulator). Please set me strait...
I just returned the fuel off the rail.

I originally had an inline pump and thought it ran awesome. Those inline pumps just dont last and I new I needed a change but after the first one was noisy as hell and the second one left me stranded, I had had it! I floped out the wallet for a genright tank that alowed for a streach and accepted a regulator, sending unit and pump from a YJ. Holy shit it ran and started like a turbo charger. i Also had trouble in moab with vapor locking. The gas a fuel run a lot cooler now. I would highly recommend it. The YJ pump puts out 50-60 psi.






http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p.../EngineR-1.jpg
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:14 PM   #121 (permalink)
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here are some pics of what i do for the fuel delivery.

this is for a TBI


this is for a 4.L


here is how the 4.L fits in an FJ 40. some what similar in space under the hood.



also a picture of the Lokar shifter
I see you have a dual diaphragm master cyl. How do you like it and how did you know which proportioning valve to use?

Take a look at what I did with the adjustable proportioning valve.



I'm not that anxious to get out and set it up!!!!! I guess it can be pretty dangerous. I had stock brakes what a pig to stop. I couldn't lock em up even if I passed a naked chick thumbing for a ride. Going to wilwood disks all the way around and this new master cyl.

It will be great to stop those 40's. Have you slammed on the brakes yet?
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:18 PM   #122 (permalink)
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Here is my shifter! I really like the Lokar. It bolt right to the top of the transmission. The art car uses a cable which I have always had trouble with.

If you notice the aluminum dash mounted LED P R N 1 2 3 4 gage which you can't see in daylight
is a nice option.



This is a shot of the atlas shifters
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:19 AM   #123 (permalink)
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the truck has wilwood discs in the front and gm discs in the rear. it stops on a dime.

the booster is too much, all you have to do is breath on the pedal and it stops. the truck only has 33s on it.

the master, booster, P valve, and mount are all a kit from btb. they offer the P valve for 4 disc or rear drum. i would imagine you could make it fit real easy in a jeep, it is all gm stuff.

the P valve is exactly the same as a cj. (for the rear drum option)
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:35 AM   #124 (permalink)
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73 cj5 -vortec 5.7 ,full manuil 350 trans ,205 case
I am going 5.7 vortec also. I am kinda envious of the 5.3 and 6.0 hp though.


5.7, 4l60e, np231j w/sye
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Old 01-12-2009, 12:13 PM   #125 (permalink)
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I am going 5.7 vortec also. I am kinda envious of the 5.3 and 6.0 hp though.


5.7, 4l60e, np231j w/sye
nah.... just go LS 5.7 then you will have all the power you need, ha ha.

from experience the 4.8L has alot of power as well and it revs nice and fast.
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