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Old 02-14-2009, 06:40 PM   #176 (permalink)
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couple of questions for you guys - - Do any of you all wish that you would of held out for a 5.7 or a 6.0 or are you happy with the performance of the 5.3. Secondly what did you guys pay for your donor motors/tranny's - - I have a line on a wrecked 2000 silverado for 600.00. 5.3, and I believe 4l60e. Just don't know if I should just keep looking for a 5.7 or 6.0. Your advice is appreciated.
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Old 02-14-2009, 06:59 PM   #177 (permalink)
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Not sure about the stock stuff, but the VDO tach needs a pull-up circuit. You will also need to know how your ECM is programmed to set the tach for 4 or 8 cyl.

Good luck.
Here's the info I have found about hooking up the tach...

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm



Good drive-by-wire and cruise hookup info too.

Lots of other good info on this link, he does programming for a good price too.
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:33 AM   #178 (permalink)
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couple of questions for you guys - - Do any of you all wish that you would of held out for a 5.7 or a 6.0 or are you happy with the performance of the 5.3. Secondly what did you guys pay for your donor motors/tranny's - - I have a line on a wrecked 2000 silverado for 600.00. 5.3, and I believe 4l60e. Just don't know if I should just keep looking for a 5.7 or 6.0. Your advice is appreciated.
I have two buddies that have 5.3 powered CJ's, they are both wicked strong.
Only complaints I've heard from either of them is that they can't seem to stay out of the skinny pedal...
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Old 02-15-2009, 07:35 AM   #179 (permalink)
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Here's the info I have found about hooking up the tach...

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm



Good drive-by-wire and cruise hookup info too.

Lots of other good info on this link, he does programming for a good price too.
Wouldn't you want a diode in between the PCM and the resistor, can't imagine the PCM would care for that increase in potential pushing back.
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:06 AM   #180 (permalink)
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Here's the info I have found about hooking up the tach...

http://lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm



Good drive-by-wire and cruise hookup info too.

Lots of other good info on this link, he does programming for a good price too.
Not saying they are wrong, because I don't know, but I would think that you would want a much higher resistor there - like 5 or even 10k ohms. All you are trying to do is make the voltage high, when there isn't a low there. 680 ohms is putting quite the current load on things when there is a low present, as it's really a short then. Current = Voltage/Resistance.

Personally I'd try it with a larger resistor first; if it works, awesome, you just saved yourself a possible headache down the road. If not, go with a lower value. Even if you started with a 3.3k (orange, orange, red for those not knowing ) first....
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:23 AM   #181 (permalink)
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Only complaints I've heard from either of them is that they can't seem to stay out of the skinny pedal...
And that's a problem............

I plan on the 5.3/700R4 in my TJ when this rod knocking 4.0L blows up.
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Old 02-15-2009, 12:38 PM   #182 (permalink)
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Has anyone triangulated there upper links with a 5.3 with stock truck oil pan. I will be moving to the front suspension within a week or 2 and only think i can do it if i curve the upper links to wrap around the pan.

Currently it is setup with a wishboned upper link.

I plan on running 2" 1/4 wall DOM, i figure it should hold up if i need to bend the link.
I've got triangulated uppers on mine. I thought clearance to the pan was gonna be tight but the closest to interference is actually to the crank pulley at full bump. I clear the pan just fine. It's a Scrambler with a custom frame but the same rules apply.









That's a 5.3 with a truck pan in the pics. In the end I'll be running a 6.0 with a Camaro oilpan and accessory brackets.

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dud, i would wait to link the front until i had a new oil pan. thoughs truck oil pans hang down so low, and they will bust if you hit it on a rock, you know, cast aluminum. You can even look around and get an LS oil pan and pick-up off of an F body. you would gan alot of clearance and the cost is not terrible.

Other than that, you could always run straight upper link and triangulate to lower links off of a crossmember.
It won't matter if it's being set up with the car or truck pan for the uppers. The clearance will be an issue due to width at the front of the pan, not the depth in the back. If it were triangulated lowers it'd be a different story.

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Originally Posted by chris demartini View Post
Are any of you building up these 5.3's, or just leaving them stock with an exhaust and tune? I know LS1s make more power, but anything with "LS" goes for big money and these truck motors are a dime a dozen.
I picked up a high mileage 5.3 that I was gonna rebuild, bore out to 5.7 with stock LS1 pistons, stock 5.3 heads(smaller chamber than LS1 heads ups the compression but they don't flow quite as well as some of the other heads), cam, valve springs, tune, etc. I'll now be running an LQ4 6.0 with a TSP 224 cam with .581 lift, upgraded valve springs, custom tune, good exhaust, 36lb injectors, etc. Should be good for 400-420hp at the crank. The cam is a bit much for a crawler but I'll see lots of dune and street time too so it should be a good tradeoff. It's not like a 6.0 isn't gonna have enough lowend power to begin with....

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My buggy is probably going to come in around 3500 give or take, my current dinosuar TPI motor with cam and tune puts out about 300. I'm thinking I need around 400 at least. I know with an LS1 I can get there with just a cam, exhaust and tune but what does a 5.3 need to hit those numbers?
You could get there with a 5.3 with the same mods, the power just won't be in the ideal spot in the RPM range for crawling. My buddy has a 5.3 Sierra with a TR220 cam, valve springs, injectors, aggressive tune, milled heads, etc. and it puts down awesome power. I think it's right in the 400hp range. With a 3k RPM stall and built trans it's quick as hell, especially for a 4800lb truck. For a crawler to make around 400hp with a 5.3 I'd probably run a cam in the 214/216 range, Comp 918 valvesprings, truck intake, upgraded injectors, ported heads, nice headers to a free flowing exhaust, and a good tune. A good port job alone can get you 30hp on those heads.
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:37 PM   #183 (permalink)
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Wouldn't you want a diode in between the PCM and the resistor, can't imagine the PCM would care for that increase in potential pushing back.
Honestly, I haven't gotten even close to this point on my build. This was just a diagram I picked up on the web- have corresponded with the guy via e-mail and he seems to know his stuff. Your diode comment makes sense, though.
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Old 02-16-2009, 10:19 AM   #184 (permalink)
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Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:27 AM   #185 (permalink)
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Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!
You can use a pull type slave cylinder instead.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:52 AM   #186 (permalink)
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I've got triangulated uppers on mine. I thought clearance to the pan was gonna be tight but the closest to interference is actually to the crank pulley at full bump. I clear the pan just fine. It's a Scrambler with a custom frame but the same rules apply.

That's a 5.3 with a truck pan in the pics. In the end I'll be running a 6.0 with a Camaro oilpan and accessory brackets.


It won't matter if it's being set up with the car or truck pan for the uppers. The clearance will be an issue due to width at the front of the pan, not the depth in the back. If it were triangulated lowers it'd be a different story.


I picked up a high mileage 5.3 that I was gonna rebuild, bore out to 5.7 with stock LS1 pistons, stock 5.3 heads(smaller chamber than LS1 heads ups the compression but they don't flow quite as well as some of the other heads), cam, valve springs, tune, etc. I'll now be running an LQ4 6.0 with a TSP 224 cam with .581 lift, upgraded valve springs, custom tune, good exhaust, 36lb injectors, etc. Should be good for 400-420hp at the crank. The cam is a bit much for a crawler but I'll see lots of dune and street time too so it should be a good tradeoff. It's not like a 6.0 isn't gonna have enough lowend power to begin with....


You could get there with a 5.3 with the same mods, the power just won't be in the ideal spot in the RPM range for crawling. My buddy has a 5.3 Sierra with a TR220 cam, valve springs, injectors, aggressive tune, milled heads, etc. and it puts down awesome power. I think it's right in the 400hp range. With a 3k RPM stall and built trans it's quick as hell, especially for a 4800lb truck. For a crawler to make around 400hp with a 5.3 I'd probably run a cam in the 214/216 range, Comp 918 valvesprings, truck intake, upgraded injectors, ported heads, nice headers to a free flowing exhaust, and a good tune. A good port job alone can get you 30hp on those heads.


Thanks for the pics and info......i will need to snap a few pics because i dont have near the room
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Old 02-16-2009, 12:00 PM   #187 (permalink)
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Not saying they are wrong, because I don't know, but I would think that you would want a much higher resistor there - like 5 or even 10k ohms. All you are trying to do is make the voltage high, when there isn't a low there. 680 ohms is putting quite the current load on things when there is a low present, as it's really a short then. Current = Voltage/Resistance.

Personally I'd try it with a larger resistor first; if it works, awesome, you just saved yourself a possible headache down the road. If not, go with a lower value. Even if you started with a 3.3k (orange, orange, red for those not knowing ) first....
Here is the LS1Tech.com write-up I did on my install. I used a 1K-Ohm 1/4 watt resistor (Radio Shack 271-1321)

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...s-learned.html

Good luck!
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Old 02-16-2009, 01:02 PM   #188 (permalink)
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Here a question for you all that have you 5.3L up and running. Have any of you guys run into a poping noise out the exhaust only under exceleration?

It sound to me that the are a bad baffle in the muffler, but then again its one of those little basterard that you can look into & see, but nothing is loose/broken.

I talked to several ppl & they say that its the knock sensor's or could be internal.

Running out of solutions.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:51 PM   #189 (permalink)
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AA headers

Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!


I just got a pair of headers from AA and received them in 2 days. Work great with slave cyl on a NV4500.

good luck
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:11 AM   #190 (permalink)
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Anyone found center drop headers for use with an external slave? I'm running a 5.3 w SM 465, external slave and the driver's exhaust drops RIGHT where external slave will be. AA says 4-6 weeks B/O on headers, and BMR is soon and I'm shooting for this as maiden outing. Any ideas are helpful. Thanks!!
You're saying the stock truck manifolds dump right on the slave cyl? That sounds about right since they are a rear dump. I am planning the same setup only it's a 6.0/SM465. I was looking at Novak or Sanderson headers (they look identical) since they dump just a little off center.

Let me know what you end up going with. I wasn't aware that AA sold headers.
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Old 02-25-2009, 09:32 AM   #191 (permalink)
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You're saying the stock truck manifolds dump right on the slave cyl? That sounds about right since they are a rear dump. I am planning the same setup only it's a 6.0/SM465. I was looking at Novak or Sanderson headers (they look identical) since they dump just a little off center.

Let me know what you end up going with. I wasn't aware that AA sold headers.
Going with AA headers, as they were the least expensive and I'm running out of money fast! Will probably go with Sanderson eventually as I hear the AA's are not the best, but they are fine for now, and price is great!!
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Old 02-25-2009, 10:43 AM   #192 (permalink)
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Going with AA headers, as they were the least expensive and I'm running out of money fast! Will probably go with Sanderson eventually as I hear the AA's are not the best, but they are fine for now, and price is great!!
Crap, just noticed you have a YJ, that would explain why you can get AA headers. For TJ's they just recommend using OEM manifolds from a '99-05 GM 1500. Good luck, I'd be getting those if I knew they'd work.

$207 is a nice price even for plain steel.
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Old 02-25-2009, 05:36 PM   #193 (permalink)
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I thought it was good, and I can get them ceramic coated here for about $100.00, so I think it'll be cool, just heard from a few people they have a tendency to leak a little. We'll see. Good luck!
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:21 PM   #194 (permalink)
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So the plans in the near future is to run the 5.3 with a 4l60e but im not sure about what t-case to run. At this time atlas is out of the question(price), im not sure if a stock case that came bolted to the 4l60e will work due to length, Will a chevy np231 bolt/hold up to the 4l60e( i know it will bolt to 700r4), or what other options do i have? Also the vss, if im correct needs to be between the 4l60e and t-case to receive the correct readings in 4low so the trans will know when to shift? Is that right or can the vss be located in the output in the t case. Another question i have is the fawk'n fuel pump is the yj 2.5 pump adequate or is it maybe, maybe not? some people say yes some say NO.

btw now it has the 2.5/ax5/np231 setup 8.8 rearend and dana 30 upfront

Sorry about all of the question, somebody school me on this.

Thanks Alex

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Old 03-02-2009, 08:03 PM   #195 (permalink)
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If you are sticking with a drivers side drop front axle you could go with a chevy np241. Be sure its a driver drop before you buy it as they make both. You can get them with a 27 spline input which should bolt right up to the 4L60 (heck, you might find that entire drivetrain if you're lucky).

I believe that any of the 241's that came behind the 4L60, 700R, and TH350 would be 27 spline input. If it came behind the 4L80, TH400, or SM465 it will be 32 spline.
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Old 03-03-2009, 04:34 PM   #196 (permalink)
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If you are sticking with a drivers side drop front axle you could go with a chevy np241. Be sure its a driver drop before you buy it as they make both. You can get them with a 27 spline input which should bolt right up to the 4L60 (heck, you might find that entire drivetrain if you're lucky).

I believe that any of the 241's that came behind the 4L60, 700R, and TH350 would be 27 spline input. If it came behind the 4L80, TH400, or SM465 it will be 32 spline.
X2, that's what I went with.
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:44 PM   #197 (permalink)
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X2, that's what I went with.
Nice exhaust..........that is exactly what I am planning for mine. Is that dual 2.5"s into a 3" outlet?
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:38 PM   #198 (permalink)
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X2, that's what I went with.
Got a picture of the exhaust as it goes under the bell housing? How low does that hang down there? I've thought of that going that way, but I'm afraid of it being too low.
I tried going to your build thread to look for myself, but I don't have an account and the account nazi's stop you.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:31 PM   #199 (permalink)
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Hey LCAC_MANm what are you doing for a vss, are you using one? If so, in the tail housing of the tcase or between the trans and tcase ? Do people have problems with an electric trans and them shifting when in 4 low because of the vss being located in the tailhousing of the tcase? I heard that the pcm thinks the rig is going 100mph in 4 low while really going 5mph ? anybody heard of this?
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Old 03-04-2009, 05:39 AM   #200 (permalink)
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Got a picture of the exhaust as it goes under the bell housing? How low does that hang down there?
I kept it as tight to the bell-housing as I could (it will all be heat wrapped as well), it is completely above the bottom of my frame rails, however you have to keep in mind that I elevated the trans/t-case and did some floor surgery to make that happen.
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