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Old 02-20-2009, 05:16 PM   #76 (permalink)
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I shaved my rear 60 the same way.
Cut:


Plate:


Welded: I TIG'd and used 308 ss filler.




Ring gear turned down .5":


Done:


I sealed it with Right Stuff and it's been leak free.
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Old 02-20-2009, 09:01 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Damn Otis that turned out clean where you welded the plate. Good comparison with the ring gear too. Nice work.
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Old 02-21-2009, 05:15 PM   #78 (permalink)
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timmay, I like how you bent the plate. would have been nice if you cut the housing angled to match, guess theres still time... do you just plan on filling te back with weld?

I was also thinking of doing something similar, but the opposite direction. kind of a mix of how tripod went parallel to the ground and how keepviper13 cut his higher.

anyone using BTF DIY cover?
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Old 02-21-2009, 08:48 PM   #79 (permalink)
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what are you guys doing to clean the bearings/housings after you make that mess?
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:09 AM   #80 (permalink)
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id guess they disassemble everything and clean it out good... at least i hope so... also in that picture are you spinning the carrier in some way or is it just the grinder spinning it? i have a big ugly aam 11.5 that i got for cheap and i figured its got to be strong so im gonna see how small i can really make it.
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:12 AM   #81 (permalink)
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I plan on having a buddy turn mine down, but if i did use a grinder i would def use my setup bearings. I'm sure a couple cans of brake parks cleaner would do the job. maybe a parts cleaner.
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Old 02-22-2009, 08:44 AM   #82 (permalink)
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dam good tec here. subscribed!
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Old 02-22-2009, 12:26 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87JeepWrangler View Post


what are you guys doing to clean the bearings/housings after you make that mess?
i have a spare housing ill be using for it ... unless i can find someone to turn in on a lathe for cheap.
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Old 02-22-2009, 01:55 PM   #84 (permalink)
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timmay, I like how you bent the plate. would have been nice if you cut the housing angled to match, guess theres still time... do you just plan on filling te back with weld?

I was also thinking of doing something similar, but the opposite direction. kind of a mix of how tripod went parallel to the ground and how keepviper13 cut his higher.
Not at all, it'll be sunk into the cast for a good weld prep. I also have a bend in it the way you are describing. It's not very substantial though.

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what are you guys doing to clean the bearings/housings after you make that mess?
A case of brake kleen.

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id guess they disassemble everything and clean it out good... at least i hope so... also in that picture are you spinning the carrier in some way or is it just the grinder spinning it? i have a big ugly aam 11.5 that i got for cheap and i figured its got to be strong so im gonna see how small i can really make it.
If you hit it at the right angle the grinder will spin it at a nice speed. You can control it pretty easily.

I just started spinning it before I hit it with the grinder so there wasn't a flat spot anywhere. Have finesse when you do it...
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Old 02-23-2009, 05:28 PM   #85 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=Timmay;9464095]Not at all, it'll be sunk into the cast for a good weld prep. I also have a bend in it the way you are describing. It's not very substantial though.

nice work, how did you bend the plate? torch or do you have a brake?
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Old 02-24-2009, 08:52 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Old 03-07-2009, 09:11 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I'm close to doing this too. I have already ground the ring gear (It came out to 9 3/4")and am about to cut the case. I had an idea to take it one step further tho. I work in a pulp mill and we have many different types of pipe used in it. I found some 10" pipe that is just over 3/8" thick. I have a patch from it I will try to fit in to the housing. Instead of a flat plate I will have a curved bottom. I also want to extend it past the lip about an inch. For a cover I think I will cast myself one out of aluminium about an inch thick. If I do that I can use countersunk bolts up from the bottom.
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Old 03-07-2009, 09:43 PM   #88 (permalink)
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I'm close to doing this too. I have already ground the ring gear (It came out to 9 3/4")and am about to cut the case. I had an idea to take it one step further tho. I work in a pulp mill and we have many different types of pipe used in it. I found some 10" pipe that is just over 3/8" thick. I have a patch from it I will try to fit in to the housing. Instead of a flat plate I will have a curved bottom. I also want to extend it past the lip about an inch. For a cover I think I will cast myself one out of aluminium about an inch thick. If I do that I can use countersunk bolts up from the bottom.
damn, i wanna see that.

Cool thread by the way.
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Old 03-08-2009, 07:16 PM   #89 (permalink)
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keep us posted on that!
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Old 03-11-2009, 10:41 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Ok, I finally got started.
This is the before unmolested pic

This is the before unmolested pic of the plate/patch

the diff gutted and cut marked

The cut (GASP!)

the plate/patch cut

another view


As you can see the curve of the plate does not exactly match. I hope I can add a bit of curve to it with the press tomorrow. if not I have a lot of filling to do with the welder doh . I left 1 1/2" of lip sticking out to hopefully match the curve of the diff cover I cast for it. I'll trim it as needed.
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:11 AM   #91 (permalink)
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interesting, for some reason I though the curve was going in the other direction...That got me thinking about cutting a tube with a dia just over the ring gear width in half creating a "u" and welding plate on both sides of the "u" This would give you increased clearence on either side of the ring gear, sort of like the pro rock center section. You could take this a step further by bending the tube prior to cutting in half the match the circumference of the ring gear...Now im not to sure on how much room you have to raise the sides of the "u" I'll go have a look see at my 14B....
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Old 03-12-2009, 08:52 PM   #92 (permalink)
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I forgot my camera at the shop....
I cut the housing a lil too far and my patch curved a little too far ... I could not get the gears back in! After much pondering (and a few beers) I cut enough out of the way that I got the gears back in. Now I'm thinking of how I want to finish this off. I'm working on it....
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:39 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Ok I brought my camera this time.
First I'll show the



Yeah that made me feel smart...
I fixed it like this:




overall looks like this now

I left the lip sticking out 1 1/2" I think the cover will be that big in the middle. I'll trim it off to fit the cover after I make the cover. I'm still making the model i will cast it from - gonna be a few days.
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Old 03-15-2009, 08:11 AM   #94 (permalink)
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Just saw one where the guy brazed the inside seam, guess to ensure a leak free seal, though it seemed like a good idea
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:03 PM   #95 (permalink)
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I welded mine with 309 stainless no preheat or postheat. just weld heat.
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:33 AM   #96 (permalink)
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Turn out ok? Any cracks? Just one pass?
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:56 AM   #97 (permalink)
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I welded mine with 309 stainless no preheat or postheat. just weld heat.
**as you try to put on the diff cover...**


DOH!
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:09 PM   #98 (permalink)
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i just grinded the lip off my 14b in the rear.i still have 14 bolts. i have 1" more clearence than in the front
d60 hp. does that sound right? i thought the 14b had terrible ground clearence

That's what I did. That cutting, welding, etc. was more work that I was going to put into the 14 bolt. I did cut the "lip" off the 14 bolt and "smoothed" anything that'd get hung up on the lower areas. I've been running the axle for about three seasons now with zero issues. I did get hung up on it once, but I was I diffed on the front as well. Had to pull cable.
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:23 PM   #99 (permalink)
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I shaved the 1" lip off mine, and plated the bottom. I'm also running a yoke guard. I kinda wish I would have taken the time to have it shaved cuz I still hang up on it.

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Old 03-17-2009, 07:43 PM   #100 (permalink)
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The diff is smaller than the disks now...
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