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Old 11-14-2009, 08:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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AW4 and Box 4 Rocks?

Hey,

Has anyone mounted one of Duffy's doublers (231-300) behind an AW4 in a Wrangler with a stock wheel base? I'm swaping in the AW4 now and looking at a doubler but damn it looks tight! Suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 11-14-2009, 01:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm thinking you'd have to push the axle back to do it correctly. An AW4 with just one T-case is tight in a TJ. I'd like to see it if you can do it. Post pics!
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Old 11-14-2009, 04:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've hear a 231 to 300 doubler is roughly the same length as a 231 with a slip yoke.

Now if it's lifted more that a couple inches it'll be too steep on the rear shaft.
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Old 11-15-2009, 06:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It would be a tight fit behind a 4.0L. I put together a 231/231 combo behind a 2.5L in a YJ, and with the engine pushed forward 7" and then decided that even then the driveshaft wasn't long enough.

Picture of the AW4 with the 2 transfer cases on it. (Bellhousing is off the AW4)
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:10 AM   #5 (permalink)
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What exactly is it goin in? Ill make the assumption that it'll be a wrang so Im not 100% sure. I do however know that the XJ guys have made it work. I myself will run one. Shifting linkages are super, super tight, but it can work. Sift threw the XJ section and maybe you can get some idea's in there. Good luck.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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What exactly is it goin in? Ill make the assumption that it'll be a wrang so Im not 100% sure.
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Hey,

Has anyone mounted one of Duffy's doublers (231-300) behind an AW4 in a Wrangler with a stock wheel base?
Since he said it was going into a Wrangler, then I'm going to assume it's going into a Wranger too .
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Old 11-15-2009, 10:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAWL_BOY View Post
I've hear a 231 to 300 doubler is roughly the same length as a 231 with a slip yoke.

Now if it's lifted more that a couple inches it'll be too steep on the rear shaft.
What he said... It's either very close to the same length or an 1'' longer with the doubler. I have the B4R kit in my garage all bolted up but I don't have another 231 to measure up to get an exact length. I would say it would work if the lift was minimal and, of course, running a CV rear driveshaft.

Mine is going behind a AX15 and a 10'' rear stretch so driveshaft issues wont be a problem.
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Old 11-15-2009, 12:03 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oldjeep View Post
It would be a tight fit behind a 4.0L. I put together a 231/231 combo behind a 2.5L in a YJ, and with the engine pushed forward 7" and then decided that even then the driveshaft wasn't long enough.
Are you running the stock wheelbase and SOA? What springs or high high are you sitting?
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Old 11-15-2009, 02:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Are you running the stock wheelbase and SOA? What springs or high high are you sitting?
Stock wheelbase, SUA 4" or so of lift, tj flares and 35's
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Stock wheelbase, SUA 4" or so of lift, tj flares and 35's
I'm getting ready to stuff a doubler in a YJ with the same lift and tires. Did you notice any difference in handling after pushing the motor 7 inches forward? I don't want to throw the front and rear weight off too much.
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Old 11-16-2009, 12:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm getting ready to stuff a doubler in a YJ with the same lift and tires. Did you notice any difference in handling after pushing the motor 7 inches forward? I don't want to throw the front and rear weight off too much.
You can only do it if you have a 2.5L. Doesn't drive any different on the road, but it climbs a lot better with more of the weight over teh front axle.
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Old 11-16-2009, 01:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Thanks. I have the 2.5, and there's plenty of room to push it forward before you get into the front axle. I have mounts, skid, shifters, and driveshafts figured out. I was just hesitant about shifting the weight forward.
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Old 11-16-2009, 01:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Thanks. I have the 2.5, and there's plenty of room to push it forward before you get into the front axle. I have mounts, skid, shifters, and driveshafts figured out. I was just hesitant about shifting the weight forward.
Nice thing is that if you just cut the stock motor mounts at the frame and slide them up the frame rails, you get a nice drivetrain lift out of it and everything winds up above the bottom of the frame rails. (You need to build a new tranny crossmember) A 4.0L fan shroud works once the motor is repositioned.
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Last edited by oldjeep; 11-16-2009 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I was planning to raise the mounts a little so I could lose the lift blocks under the motor mounts. I may only move mine forward about 4 inches. I'm doing a 231/300 doubler, so I'm not losing alot of driveline compare to a SYE. I've been running an electric fan for years, so the fan shroud will still work.
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